Very kind of you. I got mine direct from Kangertech. I have ordered the new Ni200 coils and will try it again and check the glass.
Good stuff and thanks again
SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)
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Very kind of you. I got mine direct from Kangertech. I have ordered the new Ni200 coils and will try it again and check the glass.
Good stuff and thanks again
@Sgt Pepper .19Ω is probably about twice of what it should be reading and if your showing .29Ω later on that makes me think your having a connection issue. Clean all contact points and make sure all coils are firmly in place and not touching. Only other thing is make sure your not setting resistance when the atty is not the same temp as the SXmini. I'm usually doing 5/6 wraps 28G on 3mm mandrel and am getting about .09Ω
I'm watching a review and he said you can't use button top batteries. Wrong I use both no problem.
You are probably right. I did build a coil, 6/7 wraps on 3mm screwdriver, on my new lemo 2 and it came out to .10. Thanks for you help.
It's probably weird because I'm weird.
I tried 6/7 wraps on my new lemo 2 and it's showing .10 and holding after a 1/2 of a tank. I guess to get to the .065 we're talking about 3/4 wraps with a 3mm i.d. I know yihi says the optimum coil is .065, but I think I am going to do what I have been doing on my vaporshark rdna 40: 8/9 wraps with 3mm coil. If that doesn't work, i'll keep playing with it until I find what works for me. Thanks for you comment.
IMO build what suits you best. YiHi recommends .065 but if .09 gives you a satisfiying vape at the settings you have thats fine you aren't going to explode or anything.
i agree. So I ma running a 0.19ohm build on a ST mini and it is fantastic...go figure! Everyone is getting bent out of shape trying to build at 0.065 and the damn thing wortks great at any resistance i have tried (0.22 is the most so far)
Looks easier than it is!
I used to get about 70-80% right on wicking.. Ever since I saw the video and wanting to do the wicking better it gets worse!! Damn it!! Lol
Fantastic? Your device is OFF at a minimum of up to 15%-20%. So setting the temp to 420 degrees will give you actual temps of up to 500+ degrees (If your device can even get up to the 420 degree setting at 25J or under) Defeats the entire purpose of temperature control and you might as well just use a kanthal build in power mode.
When I buy a car, im not going to settle for my speedo reading 45 mph when i am going 55 mph, nor the fuel tank showing 1/4 tank when i run out of gas.
Perhaps if this thread wasn't filled of pages and pages of issues building over 0.10 ohms people could see the reasons of why its important.
"trying" to build at 0.065 - 0.075 is not a hard task....
4-1/2 wraps of 28g 3.0mm, or
6-1/2 wraps of 26g 3.0mm
The information I got is YiHi built this chip around a .065 resistance and the closer to that the more accurate the device will be but if you build a .19 and get it adjusted to your taste while the temp won't be as accurate if it works it works.
I do agree with this somewhat but I don't think .08-.09 is going to throw you off that much. .19 is a little high and like I say what I was told the closer you get to .065 the closer you temp is going to be. .09 is pretty easy to build and get enough of the wick covered to get a good vape thats why I think 26awg would be perfect. You could hit the resistance and get plenty of wick covered at the same time.
dannyben are you saying the chip has a baseline resistance requirement of 0.065 to for the calculations to work? I do not think that is what YIHI is saying with the .065 recommendation. The chip should be taking the base res of the wire to calculate and know the temp of the wire based on the rise of the res on the wire during your vape time.
The chip was built around a .065 resistance if your not there it won't give you an accurate temp reading it will be off somewhat. That is what YiHi is saying I think. That doesn't mean you can't get a good vape off of it at another resistance it just means if you have it set for 410 you are probably getting a considerably higher temp. I saw something the other day called vaping with physics. Probably applies here.
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People getting WAY bent out of shape over that magical mystical 0.065 target. It's just a target, not an absolute. It'll work fine at higher resistances AND be just as accurate (which is to say, just as much in the same ballpark, neither Yihi or Evolv is really what you'd call dead nuts accurate).
It HAS to work just fine and be as accurate. Otherwise, the board wouldn't work after the first hit of power and resistance starts climbing. They've got tables that account for the resistances that equate to temps of 200F to 570F, from the 0.05 ohm minimum to the 0.3 ohm maximum. As long as the baseline resistance is on the money and the coil is in the operating range, nothing else should matter.
That said, they probably recommend that 0.65 because that's an artifact of using thicker (easier to work with) Ni200 with a non-ludicrous amount of wraps. Which is a great thing, it gives the SX350J a lot more flexibility than the DNA40 when it comes to coils and wire gauge.
Getting back to your car analogy regarding titanium (or twisted Kanthal/Ni200 for that matter). To me, it's more like you've fitted tires that are a different profile/size than stock, to improve traction, but you can't re-calibrate your speedometer to give you a precise reading. No big deal, some simple math tells you that 45 indicated is indeed 55 actual...and you're really only worried about not exceeding 55 so there's only one equivalent to memorize. Is it ideal? No, but you've got a hoopty with better performance at the slight cost of doing some mental math.
It's even less of a bummer when you realize that your speedo with the stock tires had a (conservative) margin of error that only worsened as speeds got higher, so precision was already a unicorn.
Makes sense to me.People getting WAY bent out of shape over that magical mystical 0.065 target. It's just a target, not an absolute. It'll work fine at higher resistances AND be just as accurate (which is to say, just as much in the same ballpark, neither Yihi or Evolv is really what you'd call dead nuts accurate).
It HAS to work just fine and be as accurate. Otherwise, the board wouldn't work after the first hit of power and resistance starts climbing. They've got tables that account for the resistances that equate to temps of 200F to 570F, from the 0.05 ohm minimum to the 0.3 ohm maximum. As long as the baseline resistance is on the money and the coil is in the operating range, nothing else should matter.
That said, they probably recommend that 0.65 because that's an artifact of using thicker (easier to work with) Ni200 with a non-ludicrous amount of wraps. Which is a great thing, it gives the SX350J a lot more flexibility than the DNA40 when it comes to coils and wire gauge.
Getting back to your car analogy regarding titanium (or twisted Kanthal/Ni200 for that matter). To me, it's more like you've fitted tires that are a different profile/size than stock, to improve traction, but you can't re-calibrate your speedometer to give you a precise reading. No big deal, some simple math tells you that 45 indicated is indeed 55 actual...and you're really only worried about not exceeding 55 so there's only one equivalent to memorize. Is it ideal? No, but you've got a hoopty with better performance at the slight cost of doing some mental math.
It's even less of a bummer when you realize that your speedo with the stock tires had a (conservative) margin of error that only worsened as speeds got higher, so precision was already a unicorn.
errr..you are plain wrong mate! sorry! You know, if you are going to be aggressive, please understand what you are talking about! See Croak's post below for an example of an informed, measured post...jeez...
And I am perfectly capale of building at whatever resistance I want. And yes, I can use steam engine as well as you can. Thanks for the unwanted tutorial..
Can you direct me to where your referencing the device being OFF by 15%-20% comes from? All the information I've seen and stated has indicated the device is "Very Very Accurate & Very Very Consistent".
to be honest vlad i have as much of a clue what he is talking about as he does...
I thought he was talking about titanium and the correction you have to factor for due to Ti's different resistance curve.
But if he was just doing the delta between the recommended 0.065 and 0.19 with Ni200, well, that's just wrong. There's no accuracy skew as you get away from the recommended resistance, there can't be. Thats the same as saying the accuracy is crap when it gets to 400F, or 500F, compared to 200F, because those temp numbers are just based on measured resistance that can closely approach 1.0 ohm when firing, depending on temp and joules selected.
And frankly, you can get more stability at higher base resistance, because if there IS a skew for mechanical reasons (connections, ambient temperature issues), it's less impactful the higher your base resistance was.
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