SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)

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Vlad1

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Mine appears to be genuine according to everything there.

IDK, those numbers are pretty bad considering mine probably have 300+ charge cycles. In fact I'm kind of disappointed I bought 2 new 25R's that I'm only getting about 17.5kj out of so my VTC5's coming in at about 19.5kj are still better. Could have saved a few dollars by not buying these 25R's.
 

jimho

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The coil doesn't really matter. Max wattage is what you need. Wattage in wattage out.

batteries aren't measured/rated by wattage (although that's what they produce)... One of the ratings is mAh but they all like about it...

Max current is what you need- both continuous current rating and instantaneous or momentary current rating are important. Yihi recommends a minimum of rating 20A continuous. Any quality battery with that rating or better is the right battery ... period. Many of the ones referenced are good for 25A which exceeds the requirement (safety wise a good thing- will result in less stress on the battery over time).

Add to the list Orbtronics ORB25's and MXJO 35A's, both rated for 25A continuous.
 

Bikenstein

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IDK, those numbers are pretty bad considering mine probably have 300+ charge cycles. In fact I'm kind of disappointed I bought 2 new 25R's that I'm only getting about 17.5kj out of so my VTC5's coming in at about 19.5kj are still better. Could have saved a few dollars by not buying these 25R's.
It checks out from that comparison. A good copy if it is. I still think it should do better. I got 21 to 23k out of the LG that came in my VaporShark.
 

Braddahbill

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After 2 1/2 weeks of building with 28awg Ni200 and tempered Ni200 running .11 Ω to .19 Ω I decided to order some 30awg from Temco and shoot for 0.065 Ω just to see if it really makes a difference.

On a side note I also ordered the Beadalon "Spool Tamer" from eBay that I saw on a few FB groups. Looks cool and wanted to pass it along.

 
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chia

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batteries aren't measured/rated by wattage (although that's what they produce)... One of the ratings is mAh but they all like about it...

Max current is what you need- both continuous current rating and instantaneous or momentary current rating are important. Yihi recommends a minimum of rating 20A continuous. Any quality battery with that rating or better is the right battery ... period. Many of the ones referenced are good for 25A which exceeds the requirement (safety wise a good thing- will result in less stress on the battery over time).

Add to the list Orbtronics ORB25's and MXJO 35A's, both rated for 25A continuous.

Very likely they lie about that too ;)
 

dr g

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batteries aren't measured/rated by wattage (although that's what they produce)... One of the ratings is mAh but they all like about it...

Max current is what you need- both continuous current rating and instantaneous or momentary current rating are important. Yihi recommends a minimum of rating 20A continuous. Any quality battery with that rating or better is the right battery ... period. Many of the ones referenced are good for 25A which exceeds the requirement (safety wise a good thing- will result in less stress on the battery over time).

Add to the list Orbtronics ORB25's and MXJO 35A's, both rated for 25A continuous.

And how do you calculate current draw on the battery?
 

jimho

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And how do you calculate current draw on the battery?
You can estimate it using power out and power in like you described but you don't use that because you don't know what the circuit is actually drawing to operate and you certainly don't know what spikes the battery is seeing due to pulses generated by the chip... we can say 20A is probably safe because the max output of this device is 60W and the cut off is 3.3V so the device shouldn't draw more than 18.18A but that assumes Pin = Pout and that's simply not true. Bottom line, when the manufacture recommends 20A, that's what you use. You take the device manufacturer's recommendation and make sure your battery's specs meets or exceeds it.
 

2legsshrt

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After 2 1/2 weeks of building with 28awg Ni200 and tempered Ni200 running .11 Ω to .19 Ω I decided to order some 30awg from Temco and shoot for 0.065 Ω just to see if it really makes a difference.

On a side note I also ordered the Beadalon "Spool Tamer" from eBay that I saw on a few FB groups. Looks cool and wanted to pass it along.


i think you meant to go the other way on gauge like 26 unless you are planning on twisting. .065 with 30awg is only 3 wraps.
 
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dr g

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You can estimate it using power out and power in like you described but you don't use that because you don't know what the circuit is actually drawing to operate and you certainly don't know what spikes the battery is seeing due to pulses generated by the chip... we can say 20A is probably safe because the max output of this device is 60W and the cut off is 3.3V so the device shouldn't draw more than 18.18A but that assumes Pin = Pout and that's simply not true. Bottom line, when the manufacture recommends 20A, that's what you use. You take the device manufacturer's recommendation and make sure your battery's specs meets or exceeds it.

Watts in watts out is very true, modified by the efficiency of the converter. There's not some black magic going on. The poster was under the mistaken impression that coil resistance made a significant difference; it does not, especially compared to the power figure he specified.

EDIT: I mean yeah, go with the manufacturer's rating but if the op wanted to do that he would not have asked anything. Presumably he wants a more technical explanation of the battery amp supply requirements, and the answer is to look to the maximum power the board supplies.
 
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jimho

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Watts in watts out is very true, modified by the efficiency of the converter. There's not some black magic going on. The poster was under the mistaken impression that coil resistance made a significant difference; it does not, especially compared to the power figure he specified.

OK...was reading posts quickly.. we're saying the same thing...just want to make sure we're always suggesting to err on the side of safety when it comes to battery ratings and recommendations ...
 

Braddahbill

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i think you meant to go the other way on gauge like 26 unless you are planning on twisting. .065 with 30awg is only 3 wraps.

I was gonna say that but didn't want to make him feel bad ;)

Well see, thats why you guys are here - to help each other when we go off and have a brain fart :facepalm: :lol:. I guess I'll just keep the 30awg and use it for the DNA 40 mod I have coming in at the end of the month.

Thanks guys.
 
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dam718

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I just got some 26AWG and 28AWG Ni200 in this afternoon. I was using 30AWG before getting these in...

I haven't messed with the 28AWG at all yet. I went ahead and jumped right into the 26AWG... Made a 7 wrap coil, 3mm I.D., spaced... Came out to .068 Ohms, go steam engine! LoL

This is on the Subtank Mini RBA section, which with the 30AWG wire has been unstable to say the least. Twisted 30 was a little better, but still not as good as I was looking for.

Using this 26AWG is an entirely different experience. The vape is much better! You have to throw a little more power to it, right now I have it set to 30J. It's stabilizing right around 520F with a 20/80 PG/VG ratio. Have the temp limit set to 540, and I'm not touching the temp limit at all. Nice and smooth, warm vape! No hot spots on the coil at all!

For single coils, 26AWG, IMO, is the way to go!

Get a spool TODAY suckas! LoL
 

Vlad1

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I just got some 26AWG and 28AWG Ni200 in this afternoon. I was using 30AWG before getting these in...

I haven't messed with the 28AWG at all yet. I went ahead and jumped right into the 26AWG... Made a 7 wrap coil, 3mm I.D., spaced... Came out to .068 Ohms, go steam engine! LoL

This is on the Subtank Mini RBA section, which with the 30AWG wire has been unstable to say the least. Twisted 30 was a little better, but still not as good as I was looking for.

Using this 26AWG is an entirely different experience. The vape is much better! You have to throw a little more power to it, right now I have it set to 30J. It's stabilizing right around 520F with a 20/80 PG/VG ratio. Have the temp limit set to 540, and I'm not touching the temp limit at all. Nice and smooth, warm vape! No hot spots on the coil at all!

For single coils, 26AWG, IMO, is the way to go!

Get a spool TODAY suckas! LoL

I've been using 28g around .09Ω mainly because In my thinking I'm liking it more due to more wraps than at .065Ω, Been thinking of getting some 26g for even more wraps but haven't yet. I'd be interested in your opinion once you try the 28g in comparison to the 26g.
 
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