SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)

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Yozhik

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Nobody talked about titanium here, I don't get why this had to be brought up. Besides, this post has some wrong assumptions about titanium as a TP wire.

It works, it's stable, it outlasts nickel by a wide (very wide) margin. You obviously can't use the same temperature settings but once you dial in the temperature that satisfies you AND doesn't scorch your wick when dry, you're good to go.

Nickel temperature coefficient is linear up to 600F. It's above that temperature when things go wonky. Why do you think both manufacturer limited TP to near or at 600F? Not because of your health but because the temperature resistance curve of nickel goes wild above 600F. Yihi probably set a lower limit to give some extra tolerance. That's all.

Nickel is non-linear when applied to vaping (100 to 300 C), but if you can find evidence to the contrary I'll reconsider. Meanwhile, I'll quote the figure below in support of my position. Regardless, being non-linear doesn't mean it's unpredictable, just that TC is going to have to take that into account as opposed to something like Platinum which is very linear. As to TC, it works on the basis of relative change in resistance, which moots the rest of your argument.

Screen Shot 2015-05-02 at 1.12.14 AM.png
 

Fir3b1rd

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Folks, there are other mods out there with TC, but they are not the SXM.
Here is a first look at the iPV4 100W box mod using the Yihi SX330 v45 chip with yes, more Joules. But for only $94.99 it might be an option for someone.

I thought it also went to 50j...how many joules is it?

That sounds bad out loud
 

JimScotty0

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I thought it also went to 50j...how many joules is it?

That sounds bad out loud
Chip Specs:
Output Power:
7-100 Watts
Output Temp: 5-50 Joules <--- The same as the SXM
Output Voltage: 1.0-7.0 Volts
Output Current: 35A
Standard Resistance: 0.1-3.0 Ohms
Joules Resistance: 0.12-1.0 Ohms
Temp Limit: 200-580 Fareheit
Input Voltage: (Dual Batteries) 6.2-8.5 Volts
Input Current: 1.3A-25A
iPV4 100 Watt Box Mod - Eciggity
 

chia

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LOL. Apparently, you haven't been in the vaping community very long.:lol::lol::lol: Have a great evening.:)

Is it normal? This kind of bickering? Is like almost at each other's throats.. ;( I'm new here too.. And sometime I feel bad when is like hating one another when we should be helping...
 

Croak

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Right behind you...
Chip Specs:
Output Power:
7-100 Watts
Output Temp: 5-50 Joules <--- The same as the SXM
Output Voltage: 1.0-7.0 Volts
Output Current: 35A
Standard Resistance: 0.1-3.0 Ohms
Joules Resistance: 0.12-1.0 Ohms
Temp Limit: 200-580 Fareheit
Input Voltage: (Dual Batteries) 6.2-8.5 Volts
Input Current: 1.3A-25A
iPV4 100 Watt Box Mod - Eciggity

Doesn't have power modes (Soft, Normal, Powerful, Powerful +), doesn't have gravity sensor, doesn't buck as low, has a "lesser" display, doesn't show actual temperature while firing, doesn't support USB charging at all. But it's less than half the price of a SX Mini M.
 

TheotherSteveS

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Is it normal? This kind of bickering? Is like almost at each other's throats.. ;( I'm new here too.. And sometime I feel bad when is like hating one another when we should be helping...

lol. it gets a little 'heated' sometimes. weak convictions sometimes become strongly held. Usually sorts itself out and everyone firends again...mostly ;)
 

TheotherSteveS

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Nickel is non-linear when applied to vaping (100 to 300 C), but if you can find evidence to the contrary I'll reconsider. Meanwhile, I'll quote the figure below in support of my position. Regardless, being non-linear doesn't mean it's unpredictable, just that TC is going to have to take that into account as opposed to something like Platinum which is very linear. As to TC, it works on the basis of relative change in resistance, which moots the rest of your argument.

View attachment 454661


it doesnt really matter whether its linear or a sine wave, as long as it is reproducible and the chip has the correct lookup table!
 

WideO

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I bought a VTC5 off ebay that was guaranteed authentic. :facepalm: After 5 or 6 charges it has gone from 14,000j to 16k average. I think if it was genuine it would do better according to reports. It works fine in the SX just don't last.

Just for the record: I had some VTC5's from my mechs laying around from before they got suspect. On both I get exactly 20.500J - give or take a few hundred.
 

dannyben

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I REALLY don't want to step into this conversation, because I don't understand half of it, and I'm just not that interested....

However, saying that "people can not even get a kanger occ @ 0.015 to work" is simply incorrect.

I use a Kanger occ, set to 450F and 36J, and it works great, excellent flavor and my cotton doesn't burn... not sure if you're saying it doesn't work in some other way, but to ME, if I get an excellent vape, good flavor and good clouds, and I can vape until the tank is bone dry and not burn the cotton, that, TO ME... is working.

Does the temp jump above the 450F I set it to? Yeah, on occasion. Do I give a rat's ***? No. It delivers a great, warm vape and I don't have to worry about burnt cotton.

Period. End of sentence.

Shell, I did not say it doesn't "work".... I said "properly". My point, which is DIRECTLY from yihi, the further away from the 0.065 baseline you go the LESS accurate your device will be. All that is important here is you are enjoying your new mod with those coils. It is working accurately enough for you and that's the key. But try building the RBA section with the suggested wraps I said, and chime back in with the difference you see instantly.

11:00 of this video....PB talks about temperature...



People...are you watching this video? Or just commenting as @jazzvaper states..."use the device you prefer at its optimal settings, the way it was designed, not the way you "wish" it were designed."


dannyben, I don't mean to stoke the fire or anything, but...

Don't you think that if the SXmini can baseline itself as low as .05 Ohms, and has an operating temp from 212F to 572F that it is "Calibrated" to sense the temperature coefficient of resistance of Ni200 through the entire range of resistance between .05 Ohms and whatever the resistance value is at 572F? I mean, the thing has the entire spectrum of values programmed right into it. WE are the ones calibrating the device by telling it to set the initial resistance value. It knows what it's own temp is, and assumes that the temp of the coil matches it's on board sensor, and then boom, baseline calibration set. The TCR curve does not change because it started at .19 ohms as opposed to .065. Unless you are suggesting that YiHi has altered the laws of physics, then your argument holds little weight. I think it was you that mentioned that the TCR is not linear, and that is certainly true. It is, however, well documented and very predictable well above 572F, so as much as you'd like to believe the SXmini M Class can only perform optimally at a baseline resistance value of .065 Ohms, the real truth is, that as long as you set a baseline that does not exceed the maximum resistance it has in its on board programming for the TCR curve at max temp (which would be the resistance delta from the baseline value) then it will work as advertised with a ballpark level of accuracy. And that accuracy is only as solid as the TCR curve it has programmed.

I think the reason none of us are buying your argument is because we understand the scientific principles at work here. I'm truly not trying to be rude, but I think your understanding of these principles may be a bit cloudy. Nothing to be ashamed of, and I hope you don't get upset over it. Try to see past YiHi's recommendation and look at the science behind it. I have some guesses as to why YiHi made that recommendation, which probably has more to do with battery efficiency and power production than temperature accuracy.

Are you describing how you'd "LIKE" the device to operate or how it does? Sorry, and i too do not want to stroke your fire or get into this any further, but the device does not work this way.

I could reset a scale, set it to zero, get on it and be pretty accurate. But then bring it to the moon. zero it there and then be off about 84%. Because the resistance (gravity) is different there and the scale is not programed to sense that difference.

I am not suggesting anything here. Simply passing on information given to me from yihi. I even sent you a link where it is in print right on their website. You see the results hooked up to a $10K FLIR, but yet you want to describe how you'd like the device to work rather then how it actually does. And you see pages and pages of posts here all from people stating things like, their device doesnt ever hit the temp they set it for, they are fooling their device and setting temps 100 degree lower, the vape feels much hotter then the actual reading, etc.... And you know whats in common there? They are all using higher builds. This device is absolutely amazing and the best device I have ever owned. When i have the proper build on it. Have you seen one post in this forum from someone complaining of the issues I just mentioned about using a built under 0.09?

And sometimes I believe we can over think what is, is. Nothing is that exact. What I know is my cotton is not being burned at the temperature I am setting: 350-400 degrees, depending upon the coil I am using. The SX mini m class works for me and I hope it works for you.

Cotton does not burn (actually char) until 410 degrees. so setting your device to 350, you can still be off as much as 17% without burning your cotton. Don't believe the information i am passing on DIRECTLY from yihi or the FLIR results of PB..... put a build of 0.30 on your mini, calibrate it and set it to 350. watch it burn.

You need to understand the Flir is using a focal point for the sensor detection whereas the device is using the average of the complete coil. The Flir is only a representation not an overall way to measure the actual temperature or resistance of the coil. You may notice that as it's moved up and down the coil it may vary a couple hundred degrees. That doesn't mean the device is 40% inaccurate.

The FLIR is not accurate for measuring temperature? Really? No one ever stated anything about resistance. Watch his video again. His first setup is exactly the 10% variance i stated before watching it. And I bet he is pretty close to the 0.065ohm suggested on that tank. Watch what happens next when he uses other tanks and how it is ALL OVER the place. Obviously built much higher then the suggested 0.065. You see the proof right there in video, but yet still making an argument?

Is it normal? This kind of bickering? Is like almost at each other's throats.. ;( I'm new here too.. And sometime I feel bad when is like hating one another when we should be helping...

It shouldn't be. This is a helping community. Not sure why everyone is jumping on me when all i have done is try and correct pages of misinformation given & pass on the proper information directly from yihi and displayed in real true accurate tests. Silly Pythagoras for pointing out the earth was really round, when everyone was perfectly fine accepting that it was flat....and hey, it only took about 2000 years for people to believe him.

Ive used my mini @ up to 0.15 and saw the differences immediately when i re-built to 0.071 (STM) & 0.068 (Lemo2). And i will bet that not one who disagrees with me, the FLIR and yihi have even tried to use the device @ close to the 0.065 build suggested -- not by me, but by the manufacturer.
 

2legsshrt

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I just got some 26AWG and 28AWG Ni200 in this afternoon. I was using 30AWG before getting these in...

I haven't messed with the 28AWG at all yet. I went ahead and jumped right into the 26AWG... Made a 7 wrap coil, 3mm I.D., spaced... Came out to .068 Ohms, go steam engine! LoL

This is on the Subtank Mini RBA section, which with the 30AWG wire has been unstable to say the least. Twisted 30 was a little better, but still not as good as I was looking for.

Using this 26AWG is an entirely different experience. The vape is much better! You have to throw a little more power to it, right now I have it set to 30J. It's stabilizing right around 520F with a 20/80 PG/VG ratio. Have the temp limit set to 540, and I'm not touching the temp limit at all. Nice and smooth, warm vape! No hot spots on the coil at all!

For single coils, 26AWG, IMO, is the way to go!

Get a spool TODAY suckas! LoL
You made my day now I am glad I ordered some 26 for a while I wasn't sure because it works so well on 28 and 29 for that matter. I started thinking I really didn't need the 26 Now I am glad I ordered it. Just curious if you set it around 410 how does it act?
 

Croak

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2legs, you know you can twist that 28ga and ohm out pretty close to the same as 26ga, wrap for wrap, right?

And Dannyben? There's no magic algorithm, it's a lookup table of resistances that correspond to temps, with some fairly simple math to account for whatever baseline you set. As long as it "knows" what the baseline resistance is, the rest is a simple lookup function and delta math. The real magic of both the DNA40 and the SX350J isn't magic math, it's the extreme frequency in which they can check and react to those deltas. Doesn't matter if it's 0.065 or 0.3 baseline in regards to accuracy. It just doesn't.

Think about this...if that coil is 0.065 at rest, and you throw power at it, by the time it's up to the common 400F-ish range of temps people seem to prefer, it's now a 0.6 or higher ohm coil. 10 times the resistance, but it's accurate enough to regulate that just fine. As it would be if the resting resistance was 0.12, or 0.2, or 0.3, and so on. It doesn't matter what the baseline is. It just doesn't.

Think about this too, after you fire, take a vape, then set it down for a minute and fire again, you're still not at 0.065 when the vape starts, because that coil, wick, and atomizer are all still higher than ambient. That 0.065 ohm coil is most likely a 0.1+ coil for the next vape. Yet it's still able to regulate just as well as a cold coil. Why is that? Because where the baseline starts DOES NOT MATTER. IT JUST DOESN'T.

As for Yihi saying 0.065 provides the "optimal" vape, that's a pretty subjective thing, don't you think? Especially when they don't specify HOW you get to that resistance, which could range from 2 wraps of 32ga to 8 or more wraps of 26ga, depending on coil ID, and that doesn't take into account the myriad of atomizers it could be in. And it for sure doesn't account for personal preferences either.
 

Fir3b1rd

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Watch what happens next when he uses other tanks and how it is ALL OVER the place. Obviously built much higher then the suggested 0.065. You see the proof right there in video, but yet still making an argument?

the problem is not with his build in the tanks.
the problem is between him not knowing or being fluid enough with TL and the tanks themselves.
busardo is just a dude, like any other dude, he is fallable. I like the guy, as a person he's a great guy, but, his word
is not gospel. The kf4 spring that rubs between the 510 and the positive post inheritnly can cause serious issues; and is a terrible choice. The ematel(whatchamacallit) on the sqr is also terrible. The dripper however ran great?
why? Its just a coil in an atty, the mod doesn't care if its an RDA or an RTA, the mod is just getting readings off what's on top. Using those to tanks to test was a terrible idea.
 
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WideO

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The irony is that if someone had said: "look, we have an update, you can now build dual coils with 28g or single coils with 26g, without needing more wraps than you were used to before, and no performance punishment if you end up below 0.1 ohm" back in October-November, we would probably have done a little dance and kissed a random passer-by. I only see it as a big advantage that we can build this low on the SX if we want to. As for how it performs at different resistance levels, isn't that up for experimentation? If your coils don't seem to work all the way down: build them a bit higher - or vice versa. L'embarras du choix if you ask me. Or am I missing something?
 
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