SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)

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PapaPro

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This replaces the nut #11:

Kayfun V4 "Spring Update" - Accessories - SteamTuners P.C.

b34572_IMG_2288.JPG

757cd6_IMG_2304.JPG

Oh wow, so it's a known issue? I will talk to SM first but I will so ...... if I have to spend one more penny to make my V4s work as advertised. I will link this thread to SM too.

Very kind of you Croak. We would be lost without you
 

Fir3b1rd

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Oh wow, so it's a known issue? I will talk to SM first but I will so ...... if I have to spend one more penny to make my V4s work as advertised. I will link this thread to SM too.

Very kind of you Croak. We would be lost without you
Yes this and the sqr both have issues with TL, hence making me scratch my head through most of busardos review.
 
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JimScotty0

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Guys I need some help :(

So, I have six authentic Kayfun V4 decks and two tanks. All with the S kit with gold spring (my problem I think?). I have had nothing but trouble with every one. I am so fed-up to say the least. £500 it cost me. And now my vaping budget from Jan of this year is nearly 2k!!! All I wanted to do was stop smoking. Anyway, I am a little ...... off. I am also realising that MOST reviewers are talking BS. Such a lesson to learn.

So, my V4s were my way out. They are the only tanks I get a vape I like. But they seem floored. I ultrasonicly cleaned all my decks yesterday. Stripped them down and even cleaned the springs. Then did the OHMs test of building a deck and testing the OMS over time. The fluctuations are driving me nuts! I get anything between 0.250 to 0.068 with a six wrap coil using every wire known to man. I have everything. And I am certain it's the V4s and not the device.

Yesterday I ordered some Subtank coils. They arrived today. Testing they are giving me a consistant 0.15 OHMs every time. But I needed some more tanks to test to be sure so I got out my drippers. My Marque is giving me 0.068 as are my Vicious Ants (way cool drippers btw). So they are all working great. But none of them give me the same vape I get from my V4s when they work.

Not sure what to do. I have meetings all day so cannot bring a dripper into the room. But as I am the boss, I can vape where I like. My Subtanks leak. I need reliability. So I want to try and get my V4s working. But how? Is it a floored design? I had the same issues in regular watt mode with Kanthal. Very inconsistant readings. And I tried to blame the devices as I was told in every review how wonderful the V4s are.

Oh I am ...... off. I could rip someones head off right now with my bare hands. Grrrrrrrrrrrr.... Anyone have any advise? I really need some hope :(

Btw, you are all idiots. The M CLass uses Mexican Wave!!!!
I feel for you PapaPro! Many people have had issues with the V4's with TC but a few have made it work. I would suggest using them for power mode and not to worry so much about the TC with them. They are great tanks and are some of the favorites out there. In power mode they should be much more forgiving and give you great pleasure.

I really don't know why you are having so much trouble with the Subtanks leaking, but once you get that resolved they can give a great vape with either the nickel coils or with the RBA using TC.

I wish you well! :smokie:
 
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Croak

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Oh wow, so it's a known issue? I will talk to SM first but I will so ...... if I have to spend one more penny to make my V4s work as advertised. I will link this thread to SM too.

Very kind of you Croak. We would be lost without you

It's a very known issue, SM is quite aware of it. Hence the updated gold spring as an attempt to address the problem. It's not SM's fault per-se, they developed the K4 before Evolv released the DNA40, so the resistance fluctuations were not a big issue, a typical say, 1.2 to 1.8 ohm build on a K4 would still be within the margin of error and wouldn't even register as out of spec on something like a DNA30 that only displays to tenths of an ohm, not hundredths.

FYI, I'm using a K4 just fine on DNA40s and my SX Mini, with a modded airflow tube that does essentially the same thing the Steam Tuners fix does.



As an interim fix, once you get a solid build with the juice control open, stop closing it to refill. Fill from the bottom of the tank with a needle bottle or syringe into the juice flow holes instead, so as not to disrupt that connection.
 
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PapaPro

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It's a very known issue, SM is quite aware of it. Hence the updated gold spring as an attempt to address the problem. It's not SM's fault per-se, they developed the K4 before Evolv released the DNA40, so the resistance fluctuations were not a big issue, a typical say, 1.2 to 1.8 ohm build on a K4 would still be within the margin of error and wouldn't even register as out of spec on something like a DNA30 that only displays to tenths of an ohm, not hundredths.

FYI, I'm using a K4 just fine on DNA40s and my SX Mini, with a modded airflow tube that does essentially the same thing the Steam Tuners fix does.



As an interim fix, once you get a solid build with the juice control open, stop closing it to refill. Fill from the bottom of the tank with a needle bottle or syringe into the juice flow holes instead, so as not to disrupt that connection.


Yes indeed Croak, that is excacly what has been happening. If/when I had a good sound connection. All was fine until I closed the juice flow and opened the top to refil. This is very good quality info and I will not forget.

Do you think those new spring updates with sove my issues? If so I will order. I am very happy with my air flow but did notice a wider driptip was needed.

I have had issues with Kanthal too and talked a lot with SM. They are good guys I know so sorry for my rant. Excelent customer sevice too I might add. But it ws like a brick in the head when I realised it was my V4s. I never would have thought they were my problem. So I took it quite bad. I really thought I was on top of this stuff.

Anyway, I want to order what I need to get my V4s working. So those new springs and maybe the air pins too. Is there anything else anyone can think of I might order? I just recieved 4 bellcaps just to I can travel with my pre-build coils.

It must be a nightmare for those who cannot afford this stuff. I have loads to give away for free if anyone wants it. Is there a vaping charity our there? I can send a few boxes of stuff.
 
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Croak

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Yes indeed Croak, that is excacly what has been happening. If/when I had a good sound connection. All was fine until I closed the juice flow and opened the top to refil. This is very good quality info and I will not forget.

Do you think those new spring updates with sove my issues? If so I will order. I am very happy with my air flow but did notice a wider driptip was needed.

I have had issues with Kanthal too and talked a lot with SM. They are good guys I know so sorry for my rant. Excelent customer sevice too I might add. But it ws like a brick in the head when I realised it was my V4s. I never would have thought they were my problem. So I took it quite bad. I really thought I was on top of this stuff.

Anyway, I want to order what I need to get my V4s working. So those new springs and maybe the air pins too. Is there anything else anyone can think of I might order? I just recieved 4 bellcaps just to I can travel with my pre-build coils.

It must be a nightmare for those who cannot afford this stuff. I have loads to give away for free if anyone wants it. Is there a vaping charity our there? I can send a few boxes of stuff.

Start with the Steam Tuners fix first. Airtube fix is kind of ghetto, and you'd need to drill out a stock tube to get the 4S performance, and its tricky to drill without ruining it unless you have a drill press.

Sent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk
 
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PapaPro

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Start with the Steam Tuners fix first. Airtube fix is kind of ghetto, and you'd need to drill out a stock tube to get the 4S performance, and its tricky to drill without ruining it unless you have a drill press.

Sent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk

Just ordered six tuners. Thanks for all the good advice Croak, Jim and all of you. I really would have given up by now if it was not this place. You guys and gals are doing good
 
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Croak

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Just ordered six tuners. Thanks for all the good advice Croak, Jim and all of you. I really would have given up by now if it was not this place. You guys and gals are doing good

Lol, I would've started with just one. And be careful on that site, its full of nice Kayfun goodies. :)

Sent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk
 
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jazzvaper

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Guys I need some help :(

So, I have six authentic Kayfun V4 decks and two tanks. All with the S kit with gold spring (my problem I think?). I have had nothing but trouble with every one. I am so fed-up to say the least. £500 it cost me. And now my vaping budget from Jan of this year is nearly 2k!!! All I wanted to do was stop smoking. Anyway, I am a little ...... off. I am also realising that MOST reviewers are talking BS. Such a lesson to learn.

So, my V4s were my way out. They are the only tanks I get a vape I like. But they seem floored. I ultrasonicly cleaned all my decks yesterday. Stripped them down and even cleaned the springs. Then did the OHMs test of building a deck and testing the OMS over time. The fluctuations are driving me nuts! I get anything between 0.250 to 0.068 with a six wrap coil using every wire known to man. I have everything. And I am certain it's the V4s and not the device.

Yesterday I ordered some Subtank coils. They arrived today. Testing they are giving me a consistant 0.15 OHMs every time. But I needed some more tanks to test to be sure so I got out my drippers. My Marque is giving me 0.068 as are my Vicious Ants (way cool drippers btw). So they are all working great. But none of them give me the same vape I get from my V4s when they work.

Not sure what to do. I have meetings all day so cannot bring a dripper into the room. But as I am the boss, I can vape where I like. My Subtanks leak. I need reliability. So I want to try and get my V4s working. But how? Is it a floored design? I had the same issues in regular watt mode with Kanthal. Very inconsistant readings. And I tried to blame the devices as I was told in every review how wonderful the V4s are.

Oh I am ...... off. I could rip someones head off right now with my bare hands. Grrrrrrrrrrrr.... Anyone have any advise? I really need some hope :(

Btw, you are all idiots. The M CLass uses Mexican Wave!!!!

Advice?

Pop into the Svoemesto thread, share your concern and be FIXED.

There is nothing "wrong" with the K4. It is among the best RTA's in the market.

If I remember correctly your are fairly new to vaping. (Politely) Be willing to listen and learn. You will master this vaping thing. :)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

PapaPro

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Advice?

Pop into the Svoemesto thread, share your concern and be FIXED.

There is nothing "wrong" with the K4. It is among the best RTA's in the market.

If I remember correctly your are fairly new to vaping. (Politely) Be willing to listen and learn. You will master this vaping thing. :)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Very kind of you to take the time on a sat night. You guys are indeed so friendly :) I did post there my friend but I don't think anyone posted a reply? I would love to hear from anyone using a V4 with a M Class. I have not yet though. I will double check but I have recieved no messages to my post. I am new to vaping that is true. And I am a no nonsense type of guy, If you know what I mean.

Good stuff and I will post my findings on the V4 thread and let you all know too :)
 

ThunderDan

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I've been using the "ghetto" afc grub screw fix with no spring in my KF4 on both DNA40 and SX M no problem. I didn't even make it permanent, its still adjustable but doesn't go anywhere on me.

I also drilled out the center post to S kit spec, well a little larger. With a one speed hand drill and cheap drill bit. It wasn't difficult, but really dumb and took way longer than it should have with proper tools.

Those two modifications cost me nothing out of pocket, and the kf4 resistance has been solid with TC even after using JC.
 
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2legsshrt

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For all of us that use the Kanger OCC coils and like a high VG ratio, this trick may assist with the wicking. I haven't given it a try yet but maybe on my next Kanger go around.

I just figured something out. I learned how to rebuild the Kanger heads for Kanthal now it should be possible to do it with NI200. 4 wraps of 28awg should do it. It took me a lot of experimenting with different methods of rebuilding till I found one that wicks perfectly but to build it with nickel and get it high enough for the DNA was next to impossible. Now its a different story think I will give it a try.
 
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2legsshrt

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I feel for you PapaPro! Many people have had issues with the V4's with TC but a few have made it work. I would suggest using them for power mode and not to worry so much about the TC with them. They are great tanks and are some of the favorites out there. In power mode they should be much more forgiving and give you great pleasure.

I really don't know why you are having so much trouble with the Subtanks leaking, but once you get that resolved they can give a great vape with either the nickel coils or with the RBA using TC.

I wish you well! :smokie:
I agree I haven't had a bad nickel coil on the STM. I love em. They are all I use for the nickel. My V4 I love the flavor with Kanthal and I still have 2 mods that are Kanthal only in my rotation a P3 and an SXmini S class. The only thing that pisses me off about the S is it costs $190 and no matter how careful I am the paint is wearing off and that is not covered. Guess I'll have to get a wrap but it is also wearing on the silver part.
 

2legsshrt

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I agree I haven't had a bad nickel coil on the STM. I love em. They are all I use for the nickel. My V4 I love the flavor with Kanthal and I still have 2 mods that are Kanthal only in my rotation a P3 and an SXmini S class. The only thing that pisses me off about the S is it costs $190 and no matter how careful I am the paint is wearing off and that is not covered. Guess I'll have to get a wrap but it is also wearing on the silver part.
I have a Provari V2.5 I got in Emerald Green and the paint wore pretty badly. I sent it back to Pro Vape and told them I wished I had gotten another Satin Silver and I'll be darned if they didn't send me a brand new Satin Silver one. Guess they had some problems with that particular color. I put it away in the box. I am retiring that one and my converted V1 in Chrome another color they had problems with. Mine the Chrome chipped off the 18650 end cap and that all. I just bought a new polished SS and you can't tell the diff. I had it converted to a V2 because of the resistance limitation they had when they first came out. I was on the waiting list when they came out with the first adjustable mod.
 

Todai

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I agree I haven't had a bad nickel coil on the STM. I love em. They are all I use for the nickel. My V4 I love the flavor with Kanthal and I still have 2 mods that are Kanthal only in my rotation a P3 and an SXmini S class. The only thing that pisses me off about the S is it costs $190 and no matter how careful I am the paint is wearing off and that is not covered. Guess I'll have to get a wrap but it is also wearing on the silver part.

Thanks, that was all I was trying to say to Papa. I hate to see new vapers feel compelled to run everything in TC, like it's the be-all/end-all of vaping. If you wick correctly there are no dry hits, if you re-fill your tank before it's dry there's no burnt cotton.

Let's remember, TC is still a novelty for the most part. Best advice is vape what you like and what works best for you. Don't get too obsessed with the first generation of temperature control implementation.
 

Bikenstein

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I agree I haven't had a bad nickel coil on the STM. I love em. They are all I use for the nickel. My V4 I love the flavor with Kanthal and I still have 2 mods that are Kanthal only in my rotation a P3 and an SXmini S class. The only thing that pisses me off about the S is it costs $190 and no matter how careful I am the paint is wearing off and that is not covered. Guess I'll have to get a wrap but it is also wearing on the silver part.
The silver on my M is a good job but the black scratches easily, bad powder coat.
 

Shel

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The silver on my M is a good job but the black scratches easily, bad powder coat.

Someone mentioned a company that custom painted mods... I had asked for the website, but nobody responded, and now I honestly can't remember the name of the company. I believe someone had had their VaporShark rDNA repainted...

There must be some company that would be able to paint the black/gray/pink/silver portion of the SX?

Anyone know?
 
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