SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)

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dam718

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My best vape yet....
30J, 450Degrees, 0.08 coil, Horizon Arctic Tank.

20150505_010851.jpg

Change your battery! :D
 
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dam718

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I don't remember who asked, and I'm a bit lazy right now... LoL (It was @derogg)

Anyway, I did a 28g Ni200 .079 Ohm build on my Kayfun Lite+, and it's been great. Vaping it at 18J 410F. No complaints at all!

Just got a P3 today though, so unfortunately this is going back to a Kanthal build to live on a ProVari. Something about a Kayfun Lite+ and a ProVari just makes all things seem right in the world.

And... 18350's... :)
 
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JimScotty0

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Yesterday while ECF was down I decided to give the twisted 26ga NI200 and 28ga Kanthal a shot. I twisted up a few feet and did 7/6 wraps, 3mm, on my Lemo 2 and also the same build on the Kanger Mini RBA using spaced coils. It was a very tight fit on the Kanger but I was able to pull it off after some careful adjustments. The Lemo 2 had no problems with space but I used the post holes for the wire which filled about 95% of the post hole.

Kangertech Subtank Mini RBA
SAM_2764.JPG


SAM_2775.JPG

It was a very tight fit with the spaced coil and still trying to get the legs around the screws without wraps touching each other. The legs are about as short as you can get in a build.

SAM_2779.JPG

As you can see I exactly nailed it with this build as far as the Yihi stated sweet spot.

Lemo 2
SAM_2786.JPG

A little bit more room to work with but with the longer legs which

SAM_2788.JPG

Exact same build on a different tank but the resistance was higher on the Lemo 2 than the Kangertech Mini RBA which was probably due to the much longer legs.

And now for the Kanger Vape...
While I was building the Lemo 2, I was already vaping on the Kanger. I found my temperature setting settling down at around 320F so that is where I set it. That is about 100F lower than where I am typically at with 28ga NI200 coils. I usually run at 14J but with the heavier wire I went to 16J which gave a nice warm vape. One very noticeable difference was the ramp up time to hit TC. It took about 4 seconds in Powerful mode to hit temp but once I did I experienced flavor tones in this 50/50 Nicoticket juice that were just amazing with a nice warm and consistent vape. The added ramp up time was very noticable but I got used to it since the flavor was so good and decent but not amazing clouds too which I would expect with a lower VG ratio.

The Lemo 2 Vape...
I found the temp around 340F and had to push up the Joules to 18J to get it all set. The ramp up time on the Lemo 2 was even more with the first 3 seconds of nothing while the coil heated up and then it hit like a ton of bricks. Such a smooth and even more flavorful vape with similar juice. Nice and warm with amazing flavors being drawn out that I had not experienced with this juice.

Lessons learned...
  • The added 28ga Kanthal had little or no bearing on the resistance during baselining probably due to the fact that electricity flows on the path of least resistance.
  • I think the added Kanthal kept the temperature of the coil more stable where I noticed very little jumping around of the TL. Once it got there, it remained there.
  • An excellent and tighter connection on both the Kanger on screws and the Lemo 2 on the post holes with the thicker and less brittle wire.
  • Could be slight hot legs using the post holes on the Lemo 2.
  • Quite a bit of lag time while the mass of wire is heated up causing me to fire the mod and even wait a few seconds before trying to get a vape.
  • 7 wraps, 3mm, 26ga NI200 with short legs will get you right at .065 ohms.
  • These tanks sucked the life out of the battery. Normally I have been making it until I get home for a while from work before changing the battery. Today I used the USB at work since by after morning break I had about 40% left on the battery.
  • The mod at times would get quite warm when chain vaping. Not uncomfortably warm, but much more than with a 28ga normal build that I have been used to. More noticeable when using the Kanger. Mod warm, tank cool. Probably due to the additional power drawn from the battery during each vape pull.
  • Before usage while the device was at stable ambient temperature I would set resistance. It remained very stable on both tanks.
  • Flavor was incredible and never a lack of juice. Both tanks kept up with wicking working just fine. I think the added wire mass and twist grooves gave plenty of heated surface area for the juice to vaporize nicely.
  • I probably used about 20-25% more juice. Just a guess.
  • My temperature settings were about 100F less than I normally use.
  • I went through 36.5k on the Joules counter today with about 10 ML of juice.
Where to go from here...
  • I will do a build on my Delta II RBA next. I will not try twisted wire since the area to work would be too limited so I will just go with 26ga NI200. The flavor is excellent normally on the Delta II so I am anxious to see how that goes.
  • Maybe try some twisted 28ga NI200 with 30ga Kanthal for the Delta II RBA.
  • I will twist up some 26ga NI200 with 30ga Kanthal and give that a run.
  • Maybe try to twist up 28ga NI200.
 
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dam718

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Nickel temperature coefficient is linear up to 600F. It's above that temperature when things go wonky. Why do you think both manufacturer limited TP to near or at 600F? Not because of your health but because the temperature resistance curve of nickel goes wild above 600F. Yihi probably set a lower limit to give some extra tolerance. That's all.

A day late and a dollar short, I know... But I believe the reason they cut the temp at 600F (572F on the SXmini) isn't so much a factor of wonky TCR curves above 600F, but because they simply don't need to. 100% VG has a boiling point of ~554F. Why would you ever need to go any higher?

The SXmini is locked into Celsius based temps, even in Fahrenheit mode. 212F - 572F is the range of the SXmini Even though they claim 200F-580F, that's a big lie :) 100C-300C exactly...
 

dr g

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In the end the ideal would be a combo of both technologies. The board would refine until we would find the correct resistance. After that, we could have an option to lock the found resistance.

FWIW that is what atty lock does. However I am still of the opinion that refinement is a useful diagnostic tool.
 

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wrice4

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Got my sx mini in the mail last night. LOVE this device, alongside my IPV4. BUT my screen in my sx mini m is crooked, and I am OCD about it. I know that it doens't affect the performance at all, but for $200, the screen shouldn't be crooked. Its minimal, but now that I notice it I look at it everytime I vape.

I have contacted Varitube, who I bought it from, and are awaiting a response from them. I bet they will say I can send it back for a replacement, but I don't want to be without this device again for another 1-1.5 weeks. I waited long enough to get this device. Any opinions on this?
 
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JimScotty0

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Got my sx mini in the mail last night. LOVE this device, alongside my IPV4. BUT my screen in my sx mini m is crooked, and I am OCD about it. I know that it doens't affect the performance at all, but for $200, the screen shouldn't be crooked. Its minimal, but now that I notice it I look at it everytime I vape.

I have contacted Varitube, who I bought it from, and are awaiting a response from them. I bet they will say I can send it back for a replacement, but I don't want to be without this device again for another 1-1.5 weeks. I waited long enough to get this device. Any opinions on this?
That is what you call bad karma. :yawn:
 

dannyben

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Got my sx mini in the mail last night. LOVE this device, alongside my IPV4. BUT my screen in my sx mini m is crooked, and I am OCD about it. I know that it doens't affect the performance at all, but for $200, the screen shouldn't be crooked. Its minimal, but now that I notice it I look at it everytime I vape.

But you are ok with the IPV4 that you can't even see the screen unless its pitch black out?
I would love to see a picture of this.
 

wrice4

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But you are ok with the IPV4 that you can't even see the screen unless its pitch black out?
I would love to see a picture of this.

LMAO YES! I know its soooo annoying. When I am driving in my car, I have to take my sunglasses off to see the screen. IDK what P4U problem is with constantly not thinking about these issues. Why put a stupid mirror screen on the device as well, when they already learned that lesson once from a previous model.

Besides that, I love the IPV4. I have had the ipv3, ipv2, ipv mini 2.... I love the devices, yes P4U isn't the best out there, but every device I have had from them have performed flawlessly and I have never had a problem, and they are budget friendly. Besides the screen on it, works very well.
 

Vlad1

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Got my sx mini in the mail last night. LOVE this device, alongside my IPV4. BUT my screen in my sx mini m is crooked, and I am OCD about it. I know that it doens't affect the performance at all, but for $200, the screen shouldn't be crooked. Its minimal, but now that I notice it I look at it everytime I vape.

I have contacted Varitube, who I bought it from, and are awaiting a response from them. I bet they will say I can send it back for a replacement, but I don't want to be without this device again for another 1-1.5 weeks. I waited long enough to get this device. Any opinions on this?

Depending on your color he has black/silver & grey/silver in stock so if your lucky it should only take about 2 days to get a new one to you. Can you post pics? I know the circuit board is attached with 4 screws so I'm curious how it would be crooked. I heard someone else say theirs was slightly skewed as well but never seen a pic of it.
 
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Sgt. Pepper

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Yesterday while ECF was down I decided to give the twisted 26ga NI200 and 28ga Kanthal a shot. I twisted up a few feet and did 7/6 wraps, 3mm, on my Lemo 2 and also the same build on the Kanger Mini RBA using spaced coils. It was a very tight fit on the Kanger but I was able to pull it off after some careful adjustments. The Lemo 2 had no problems with space but I used the post holes for the wire which filled about 95% of the post hole.

Kangertech Subtank Mini RBAView attachment 455122

View attachment 455123
It was a very tight fit with the spaced coil and still trying to get the legs around the screws without wraps touching each other. The legs are about as short as you can get in a build.

View attachment 455124
As you can see I exactly nailed it with this build as far as the Yihi stated sweet spot.

Lemo 2
View attachment 455129
A little bit more room to work with but with the longer legs which

View attachment 455130
Exact same build on a different tank but the resistance was higher on the Lemo 2 than the Kangertech Mini RBA which was probably due to the much longer legs.

And now for the Kanger Vape...
While I was building the Lemo 2, I was already vaping on the Kanger. I found my temperature setting settling down at around 320F so that is where I set it. That is about 100F lower than where I am typically at with 28ga NI200 coils. I usually run at 14J but with the heavier wire I went to 16J which gave a nice warm vape. One very noticeable difference was the ramp up time to hit TC. It took about 4 seconds in Powerful mode to hit temp but once I did I experienced flavor tones in this 50/50 Nicoticket juice that were just amazing with a nice warm and consistent vape. The added ramp up time was very noticable but I got used to it since the flavor was so good and decent but not amazing clouds too which I would expect with a lower VG ratio.

The Lemo 2 Vape...
I found the temp around 340F and had to push up the Joules to 18J to get it all set. The ramp up time on the Lemo 2 was even more with the first 3 seconds of nothing while the coil heated up and then it hit like a ton of bricks. Such a smooth and even more flavorful vape with similar juice. Nice and warm with amazing flavors being drawn out that I had not experienced with this juice.

Lessons learned...
  • The added 28ga Kanthal had little or no bearing on the resistance during baselining probably due to the fact that electricity flows on the path of least resistance.
  • I think the added Kanthal kept the temperature of the coil more stable where I noticed very little jumping around of the TL. Once it got there, it remained there.
  • An excellent and tighter connection on both the Kanger on screws and the Lemo 2 on the post holes with the thicker and less brittle wire.
  • Could be slight hot legs using the post holes on the Lemo 2.
  • Quite a bit of lag time while the mass of wire is heated up causing me to fire the mod and even wait a few seconds before trying to get a vape.
  • 7 wraps, 3mm, 26ga NI200 with short legs will get you right at .065 ohms.
  • These tanks sucked the life out of the battery. Normally I have been making it until I get home for a while from work before changing the battery. Today I used the USB at work since by after morning break I had about 40% left on the battery.
  • The mod at times would get quite warm when chain vaping. Not uncomfortably warm, but much more than with a 28ga normal build that I have been used to. More noticeable when using the Kanger. Mod warm, tank cool. Probably due to the additional power drawn from the battery during each vape pull.
  • Before usage while the device was at stable ambient temperature I would set resistance. It remained very stable on both tanks.
  • Flavor was incredible and never a lack of juice. Both tanks kept up with wicking working just fine. I think the added wire mass and twist grooves gave plenty of heated surface area for the juice to vaporize nicely.
  • I probably used about 20-25% more juice. Just a guess.
  • My temperature settings were about 100F less than I normally use.
  • I went through 36.5k on the Joules counter today with about 10 ML of juice.
Where to go from here...
  • I will do a build on my Delta II RBA next. I will not try twisted wire since the area to work would be too limited so I will just go with 26ga NI200. The flavor is excellent normally on the Delta II so I am anxious to see how that goes.
  • Maybe try some twisted 28ga NI200 with 30ga Kanthal for the Delta II RBA.
  • I will twist up some 26ga NI200 with 30ga Kanthal and give that a run.
  • Maybe try to twist up 28ga NI200.

Really nice information. I set up my coil per your previous instructions. I did a 5/6 wrap, 28 gauage around a 3mm i.d. I placed my lemo 2 on the sx and got .073 ohms. I took it off 2 times and it changed to .074 & .075. I set my baseline resistance at .075. I set the tl to 520 degrees and joules at 14 and hit the fire button. The temperature settled in around 395 degrees. I went ahead and set my tc at 410 degrees. I started vaping at 14j and went up to 18j. I got no pulsing at 14j-17j. I just barely hit temperature limit at 18j, but only when I stopped drawing off the atty. The flavor and vapor have been great. I should add I ran this in standard mode, which I find best. This method is a great template. I'm going to try some different builds, but use this method. thanks again, JimScotty.
 

Vlad1

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wrice4

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Depending on your color he has black/silver & grey silver in stock so if your lucky it should only take about 2 days to get a new one to you. Can you post pics? I know the circuit board is attached with 4 screws so I'm curious how it would be crooked. I heard someone else say theirs was slightly skewed as well but never seen a pic of it.
I have the black and silver one, and I just meant that It would prob take 2-3 days to ship it back, then a day or 2 for them to inspect it, then another 2-3 days from them to ship me a new one. Thats why I said a week or so.

Sure, let me run down to my car and get. Remember, its BARELY crooked, but since I know its there it bugs me.
 

Bikenstein

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Yesterday while ECF was down I decided to give the twisted 26ga NI200 and 28ga Kanthal a shot. I twisted up a few feet and did 7/6 wraps, 3mm, on my Lemo 2 and also the same build on the Kanger Mini RBA using spaced coils. It was a very tight fit on the Kanger but I was able to pull it off after some careful adjustments. The Lemo 2 had no problems with space but I used the post holes for the wire which filled about 95% of the post hole.


Where to go from here...

  • I will do a build on my Delta II RBA next. I will not try twisted wire since the area to work would be too limited so I will just go with 26ga NI200. The flavor is excellent normally on the Delta II so I am anxious to see how that goes.
  • Maybe try some twisted 28ga NI200 with 30ga Kanthal for the Delta II RBA.
  • I will twist up some 26ga NI200 with 30ga Kanthal and give that a run.
  • Maybe try to twist up 28ga NI200.
Thanks for that post and the pics. Looks like I need to get some 26g. I would be interested to see what results you get with the twisted 28. I did only one coil so far. A 7x3mmx28g in the Lemo 2. It worked well .09 @ 400/16j but not the flavor or vapor I was expecting. I broke it playing around with wicking and just threw a Kanthal build in it. I'm not liking workin with the nickel. Maybe it's the stuff I got off ebay but it seems to have an iron flavor.
 

Vlad1

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I have the black and silver one, and I just meant that It would prob take 2-3 days to ship it back, then a day or 2 for them to inspect it, then another 2-3 days from them to ship me a new one. Thats why I said a week or so.

Sure, let me run down to my car and get. Remember, its BARELY crooked, but since I know its there it bugs me.

Thanks, perhaps if you talked to him nice he'd do a cross ship with a credit card hold. And make the overall time max 2 days. IDK if he'd do that or not just a suggestion.
 
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wrice4

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I heard someone else say theirs was slightly skewed as well but never seen a pic of it.
Remember I am rather OCD about this, and its just BARELY off. Some people might call me dumb for even mentioning it, considering how slightly off it is, but here are the pics. I just figured it should be perfect for a $200 device, but it did come from China's QC.

c871c079a5636a90d41c810cfd387728.jpg
f8ed9f0342d9057ae9c2b669bb358945.jpg
e65150d71713d95dfaa4a06face6bf95.jpg
573d3227f6dcec2bf5f96a1627b0ebc8.jpg
880f7e6692458259ab3a1556a8b9c153.jpg
 

Vlad1

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Remember I am rather OCD about this, and its just BARELY off. Some people might call me dumb for even mentioning it, considering how slightly off it is, but here are the pics. I just figured it should be perfect for a $200 device, but it did come from China's QC.

c871c079a5636a90d41c810cfd387728.jpg
f8ed9f0342d9057ae9c2b669bb358945.jpg
e65150d71713d95dfaa4a06face6bf95.jpg
573d3227f6dcec2bf5f96a1627b0ebc8.jpg
880f7e6692458259ab3a1556a8b9c153.jpg

Dang man I feel for you. Definitely noticeable and I agree with you. For this price range you should expect better. That's not something that should make it out of QC. Guessing the diameter of the screws is just slightly smaller than the post holes in the circuit board to allow for that amount of skew.
 

IWobbleWobble

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Thanks for that post and the pics. Looks like I need to get some 26g. I would be interested to see what results you get with the twisted 28. I did only one coil so far. A 7x3mmx28g in the Lemo 2. It worked well .09 @ 400/16j but not the flavor or vapor I was expecting. I broke it playing around with wicking and just threw a Kanthal build in it. I'm not liking workin with the nickel. Maybe it's the stuff I got off ebay but it seems to have an iron flavor.

I get solid results from twisted 28 in my Lemo 2. 3.5 mm ID, 7 wraps, .072 (I think....07x, I can't remember and I'm at work.) Great flavor. I have yet to pull off a non-twisted build that I really like. Granted, I only have 28 and 30 gauge.
 
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