SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)

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TheotherSteveS

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I also choose to believe the SX is more accurate 2legs, because if it's not it won't be able to regulate temp well at all. Just the fact that the SX has much greater resolution than a typical standalone ohm meter... the SX displays to 3 decimal points, or thousandths of an ohm (although I have heard internally it is actually measuring and basing it's calculations on 4 decimal places which is even better, but I can't absolutely verify that) leads me to believe it is probably using high quality components internally to measure that and my standalone box reads to 2 decimal places. I think the DNA40 is also quite accurate and I find the resistance reading between my SX350J and DNA40 box to be dead on between both devices, and yet my cheaper standalone box is a little off.

I know the amount of decimal places it reads is not a true indicator of accuracy, but a device that calculates temp from resistance would have to be pretty accurate I would think to be able to do that well. And the SX board sure seems to do temp well, at least to me. I also have a lot of experience with SX350 chips since they first came out (before the J chip) and they have all been very accurate chips and I have no reason to believe this chip is any different.

Just anecdotal evidence I realize, but if I were a betting man my money would go on the SX350J chip and not the standalone cheaper box... and I'd probably give odds.


one thing that is odd about the sx is that it rounds down to 2 dec places - so even if the reading is 0.139, it will disply 0.13 and not 0.14 as it should in my opinion!

It is also correct that lots of decimal places suggest a precise measurement but that doesnt mean it is accurate!
 
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TheotherSteveS

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just an observation which is probably obvious but the fact that some people are using Ni builds that are optimum at temps like 320-350F show that these 'temperatures' actually have little relevance to the real world. PG doesnt even boil at 350F and VG is even higher! We might as well just say it is set to 350 and leave it at that cos it aint 350F!!
 

Vlad1

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Well, one could make it a user-enabled feature under advanced settings, with the default being that it is turned off. The reason I'd like to have it is that sometimes you can't set the device at room temperature. For example, if you're at a football game at 40 F, a room temperature coil at .065 ohms would likely read around .059 ohms. If it's 97 F, then the coil will likely read around .071 ohms. This can be significant enough differences in resistance that the only way someone can correct them is to adjust the temperature limit up or down to compensate. That too is prone to same abuse you describe, but it's going to require more trial and error than if I can adjust the resistance to a known value that works properly.

Yea I understand why it could be beneficial and why some would like that ability. I just don't see it happen from a business perspective. To many user complaints / problems or service inquiries etc.. due to lack of understanding. But who knows anything is possible since we can update right. :)
 
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Vlad1

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What a shocker..... Less then 24-hours after my post, one of your mentions COMPLETELY removes any mention of the device being able to fire while charging!!! Coincidence? Or you think he contacted yihi to confirm and saw i was correct.

Keep up the good work fighting (and spreading erroneous and dangerous information) rather then confirming from the ONLY accurate source....YIHI.


I'm not the one spreading erroneous information. I merely supplied you with links you had requested. Not only one but three. Regardless, the lack of a statement does not substantiate your claim of.
No and especially at high wattage. Yihi strongly recommends that you do not.

And even after numerous requests you've failed to provide even one link to backup your statement.

I really think you should consider your credibility here. After all of these requests and you continue with the attacks but you still have not provided anything other than your opinion?????????? And more questions rather than simply providing the requested supportive links.

Where does YiHi recommend that you don't use the passthrough in this manner? Link please.

I think if you would simply provide substantiating links to the statements you make on behalf of Yihi when asked the topic would be closed.

And please only provide the requested information where does Yihi state "No and especially at high wattage. Yihi strongly recommends that you do not" so this will not go on forever in a circle

Please provide your links, screen shots or whatever you have to support your statement.

I'm simply asking that you provide the information that substantiates your claim.

Again you have not provided anything to substantiate your claim. I haven't stated anything to you that I need to answer for. I've merely answered your questions and provided you with links per you're request. Now answer mine.
 
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Bikenstein

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No Chia, that would have no effect. The only important thing is that the temperature sensor on the chip is the same temp as the coil when the resistance baseline is initially set. The ambient temp doesn't really matter either. The temp could be 40F or 100F and it wouldn't matter, as long as the temp sensor on the SX350J board is the same as the coil temp during the initial baseline setting. Once the temp is equal between the two and the initial resistance is measured it will be able to know the temperature of the coil using the coefficient after that based on the resistance reading. For example, if the board temp is 83F and the resistance of the coil reads 0.22 during calibration, the chip can now use the coefficient to calculate any other temp based on the resistance of the coil as it changes. The properties of pure nickel are quite well known, reasonably stable, and has a big enough change of resistance in relation to temperature changes to be accurate for calculating the temp of the coil. That is the reason nickel was chosen as the material best used for this purpose.

In theory, if you had a method of heating the coil and the chip's sensor equally to 400F it would be just as valid a baseline as if it were done at 70F. In reality, the chip would have turned off at the temp limit setting (which is well below 400F) so that really wouldn't work above the chip's temp cutoff limit. So in actuality, both the coil and the chip's temp sensor need to be at the same temp within the limitations of the chip's ability to operate... or under the chip's cutoff point for the baseline reading. So without the physical equipment to bring the chip sensor and coil to the same temp, just letting them both settle to ambient temp works well enough for the baseline.

So once a known baseline temp to resistance is set with both the chips sensor and the coil being at the same temp, the chip will always know the temp based on the baseline readings and the current resistance of the coil. This is true unless for some reason the coil resistance changes. Since the properties of nickel are very stable, only outside influences like poor atty connection, loose coil wires, or a build-up of gunk on the coil, or some other outside change would cause a significant enough difference in resistance for this to be an issue. Ambient temp changes should have no effect on the SX350J's ability to regulate temp correctly.

TL;DR: Not a worry
I haven't thoroughly read all the posts but I see the SX has a chip temperature sensor. I had it in my mind that it was some sort of resistor or resistance element on the board that it compared to the coil resistance at equal temperature for a baseline, maybe even like a thermistor. Also how much of a resistance change is there with 26 or 28g Ni wire in a range of 60 degrees? I guess that would only be relevant if it was known how the chip equated the resistance change at low temps. I don't really care about accuracy as long as it works. :)
 

jchisholm

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I think most people should read and listen to this post from dannyben if they have the SXmini M class . If Practiced, this thread would have more pictures of very cool SXmini rigs !
Agreed, I've never had a simpler setup, be it kanthal, nichrome or whatever.
Falling-off-a-log easy, 5 wraps 28AWG NI200 = .068 for a single coil,
dual coil is just 2 x 10 wraps.
Perfect every time.
 
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jchisholm

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that's obviously why it is not working properly with the st. I wish they had made a more prominent point about .065 and maybe I would be without one. on the other hand it is hard to imagine it has such a narrow margin of accuracy. .065 or else! that is a real shame(for me). it is working, sort of. dna did not like me either. I might have to forego temp control until the next round. I am unhappy right now.

I was wondering something. is the m a different form factor than the s? have both right here look about the same to me.
Sorry, I don't get it. How/why are you so frustrated?
Do a spaced 5 wrap 28 gauge coil, Simple, compact and dead on what Yihi recommends.
I had no end of problems with 5 (five) DNA 40 devices, the mini is just fantastic.
 
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Yozhik

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I know nothing about these only that they were mentioned in another thread...

Found 19 nickel coil at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

They have specialized machines in China that can manufacture coils like these very quickly. Some of them are shown in pbusardo's china trip videos. Given that all of these are 0.5mm diameter coils or less, my guess is that these were designed with the intent to be used by a manufacturer's atomizer (e.g., the coil is wrapped externally with wicking material that is held against the coil by the metal casing of the atomizer). Too bad they don't offer any 3mm builds, I'd order some to give it a try.
 

Yozhik

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My 28g 5wrap builds aren't close to 0.65. Around a 3mm bit they ohm out to around 0.89. Was considering going to 26g to try to get to 0.65

Not sure if this is the issue, but long legs can add substantial resistance to the final product. Also, I've had success with a 2.5mm diameter using 28g to get pretty close to 0.65 ohms.
 
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dannyben

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They have specialized machines in China that can manufacture coils like these very quickly. Some of them are shown in pbusardo's china trip videos. Given that all of these are 0.5mm diameter coils or less, my guess is that these were designed with the intent to be used by a manufacturer's atomizer (e.g., the coil is wrapped externally with wicking material that is held against the coil by the metal casing of the atomizer). Too bad they don't offer any 3mm builds, I'd order some to give it a try.


Oy!!!!! Your posts are SOOOOOO wrong and once again you are giving people who come here for HELP false information.

Those are NOT the inner diameter of the wraps. That is how the wire is measured! By gauge --which is thickness! Do you know what 0.5mm is? 0.3mm? I would love to see you thread a wick of cotton through that! LOL.

24g = 0.5mm
26g = 0.4mm
28g - 0.32mm (not listed there)
29g = 0.3mm
 

Bikenstein

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Oy!!!!! Your posts are SOOOOOO wrong and once again you are giving people who come here for HELP false information.

Those are NOT the inner diameter of the wraps. That is how the wire is measured! By gauge --which is thickness! Do you know what 0.5mm is? 0.3mm? I would love to see you thread a wick of cotton through that! LOL.

24g = 0.5mm
26g = 0.4mm
28g - 0.32mm (not listed there)
29g = 0.3mm
That makes sense...:) I read that wrong, too. I was wonderin why they would make coils so tight you couldn't wick em LOL wouldn't allow much air for a vertical coil either
 
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dannyben

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That makes sense...:) I read that wrong, too. I was wonderin why they would make coils so tight you couldn't wick em LOL wouldn't allow much air for a vertical coil either

I don't think you really read it wrong, but was "steered" there....which happens when people post things like that.
Yeah.... i didnt want to embarrass him even more by his theory of a 0.5mm diameter wrapped wire in a mfg's coil. Which would take someone with the lungs of an elephant to get even a partial draw. ;)
 
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