SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)

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JimScotty0

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If you can set the applied power to it in a reasonable range in relation to the temp setting, it will control the temp. It does control it. I know this because I've ran wicks completely dry without burning them so that leads me to believe what I see happening on the screen. That plus the quality of the vape. The AC in my house works but if it's 100 degrees outside and I open all the doors and windows it will fail to do it's job. That's not a fail on Carrier but more of stupidity on me. :)
Excellent analogy! :party:
 

Yozhik

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Semantic dodges aside, if you can overdrive the temperature setting with more power, the temperature control, limit, or protection is failing.

My Jeep has a manual transmission and cruise control. I wouldn't be surprised if I could set the cruise control for 30+ mph while in second gear. Will it work as well as if I had it in 4th gear? Most likely not. Does that mean my cruise control is "failing"? I'd say no, because it's not meant to be idiot proof. Same thing with the SX Mini. It won't work as well if you're default setting is 50J, but it will still do better than what would happen with a non-TC build in that situation. So if you're not finding TC is working as well when you're overdriving the coil, lower the Joules. This is a PV for advanced users, which means you should have some common sense in what you're doing, plain and simple. Maybe some day there will be low-knowledge consumer devices aimed at TC, but that's not what the SX Mini pretends to be nor should it be held up to such a standard.
 

TheotherSteveS

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ok here is a new one for me.
just swapped in a twisted 30g ni build @ 0.08 ohms in a subtank mini. set to 400F but cant get it to go over 340-350 at any joule setting. the vape is really nice but it seems a bit odd that it it limiting so far below the set temp. the resistance is rock solid so i think the build id ok. spaced with only 6 wraps.
any ideas??

ps i can regulate it below 350 by dropping joules but cant go higher..
 

chia

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It's marketing.. Makes the product ever more desirable ;)

It's like the Honda or Ford muscle car: design for racers to win races.. Suddently everyone wants one! Lol

Every mod and rebuildables out there is actually designed with the so call 'professional vapers' . In fact the vv devices, with all the safety features like reversed batt and low ohms limits protection is about as safe as one can get.. It's just that to get the most of the TC features one would require more time and commitment to understand and to make full use of. Or to enjoy the product one would say..

I dread to think anyone is 'not professional enough' and hence 'unfit' to use temp limit or control or protection!! One just need to be serious and more importantly HUMBLE enough to make/recognize mistake and learn from others..
 

TheotherSteveS

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ok here is a new one for me.
just swapped in a twisted 30g ni build @ 0.08 ohms in a subtank mini. set to 400F but cant get it to go over 340-350 at any joule setting. the vape is really nice but it seems a bit odd that it it limiting so far below the set temp. the resistance is rock solid so i think the build id ok. spaced with only 6 wraps.
any ideas??

ps i can regulate it below 350 by dropping joules but cant go higher..

not sure what is going on but locking in resistance again cured the problem. It changed a little...like 5 mOhms....so I dont think there is a problem with the build. Oh well, its fine now!
 
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2legsshrt

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Proper temperature control should work regardless of power setting. So busardo was correct to test it. If you can overdrive it, that's a fail. And that is one of the areas the SX J board fails, but busardo did not call it out as the failure it is.
He was using 26awg also which makes a big diff. The 28 hits temp really pretty fast at 18J the 26 for me didn't hit it till I got above 20 or more joules. I am sure I will try it again but I really don't care for a really warm vape which is what I got. To each his own. If you build it the way it tastes best to you then that's your sweet spot. For me it's 28awg 3mm 7 wraps 18J 410 degrees. Soft mode in the morning Standard after that till evening sometimes I like even a little softer in the evening and go to 15J soft mode. I love the way you can adjust the SXM to suit your tasted. That is what I've been looking for for a long time.
 

Vlad1

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Guys I think all us newbies should read this website http://www.best18650battery.com/ as it really gives us a good guide to what cells we need for our M class's.

Here's where I found this little gem of info. Cheers Lou!


On a similar line I've put together a estimation of Amp draw based on the resistance range of the SXmini M specs. Remember it's only an estimation due to the fact we don't have a constant current with temp limiting.

Edit: Also there's no consideration of the TCR of your particular wire, In my case .08Ω coil is around .16Ω @ operating temperature.


Power.png
 
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TheotherSteveS

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On a similar line I've put together a estimation of Amp draw based on the resistance range of the SXmini M specs. Remember it's only an estimation due to the fact we don't have a constant current with temp limiting.


Power.png
im afraid because of the dR/dT, these tables are not relevant. They work for kanthal but not for Ni. they arent even close for the most part!! The power and current draw are much les than would be expected from ohms law in the resting state!
 
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Vlad1

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im afraid because of the dR/dT, these tables are not relevant. They work for kanthal but not for Ni. they arent even close for the most part!! The power and current draw are much les than would be expected from ohms law in the resting state!

Yes we know that, That's in part why it's only an estimation. Rough estimations of mine indicate the resistance of my .08Ω coil basically doubles to about .16Ω when fired so I can tell roughly what Amp draw I'm pulling while firing my .08Ω coil assuming a flat DC which again is not the case so again another estimation.
 

TheotherSteveS

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Yes we know that, That's in part why it's only an estimation. Rough estimations of mine indicate the resistance of my .08Ω coil basically doubles to about .16Ω when fired so I can tell roughly what Amp draw I'm pulling while firing my .08Ω coil assuming a flat DC which again is not the case so again another estimation.


Ok thats fine. It does roughly double for Ni going from 20C to say 220C. I guess for those who didnt know that, this is an important piece of imformation for this table to be useful. Thats all I meant!!! :)
 
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Vlad1

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Ok thats fine. It does roughly double for Ni going from 20C to say 220C. I guess for those who didnt know that, this is an important piece of imformation for this table to be useful. Thats all I meant!!! :)

Agree, When I put that together it was really only for my personal estimations. I'll edit that post to be more clear :)
 

Sean Mack

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No update since it uses a different chipset. The 350J vs the 350.

Nope. I would be kinda upset too. Especially now that the M Class is like $10 difference..

I'm just waiting till they restart shipping on the BLK/SLV SLV/BLK ones to see if it's really fixed before I grab one
(they halted shipments cause of the black paint issue and having to replace so many that were having issues already) So I'm trying to wait patiently...

Not sure if I can lol
 
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