SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)

[chia]

Guys, pretend I'm 5 years old and explain me this please:

Knowing that:

1) Temperature Protection should be the ability to limit the build's temperature to a certain pre defined value

2) The pre set power setting should only influence the amount of time it takes for the mod to reach the temperature defined in #1

Then how come, in the last few days, I've been reading on this thread that X amount of Joules gives a hot vape or if you're getting a dry hit, reduce the power?

Isn't it supposed the mod handling all this?

I'm really confused. If one sets 300F, how can you burn a wick if cotton burns at 440F?



Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

Good points.. I have some questions along those line..

If I set the temp to 500deg F, will the cotton burn? Since there's a 'dry coil' warning feature to prevent dry burn?

I have a build at 0.06 set to 420 F at 20J.. During vaping it only hovers around 250 F, never quite reaching the 420 F.. At 30J it goes to 380 F, but a bit to hot for me.. Anything I did wrong?

The resistance for Nickel changes with heat, and with gunk also.. So is it a good idea to check and sync the baseline resistance once in a while? Like after an hour or so of it just sitting and cooled?

 

[chia]

100000000% correct. I've posted this quite a few times already but got tired of re-explaining and correcting.

The 4 modes Soft/Standard/Powerful/+ are also redundant to the joules setting as well. Just another option for fine tuning. All these do (the modes and joules) is tell the device how quickly to ramp up to your desired set temperature.
When I set my resistance properly at room temp with any of my 4 different tanks i use with my mini I get the same EXACT temperature vape on all 4...whether i am at 15 joules or 50 joules.

Some do find the modes useful in fine tuning the initial draw.. However I do find the J metering too much.. Initially touted as a cloud meter or vape meter I cannot remember.. For you to 'count' your vape lol .. Oh well.. Not many I would guess really bother to use it to gauge battery either, low batt bar? Change the batt! Who really loses sleep just bcos he or she actually used more Joules than yesterday or so and so used only that much Joules and so on? Lol
Like Mr Busardo mentioned.. Vaping should be as simple as possible, and technology? Oughta make vaping simple too, within reasons of course, and not add a bunch of 'extra' parameters just to make the tech looks cool..

 

[WideO]

As you know, I have both devices.

I believe the same thing is happening to the dna refinement mode. It's not a bad thing when it correctly detects a real resistance change and refines to the new correct value.

On paper, if I never had used either device, I would assume that the way Evolv does things should be more accurate. In the real world, it turns out the opposite is true; I get way more predictable results with the Mini. It never tries to bite me in the behind. It never suddenly gives a massive surge burning the cotton before it thinks it's at 400°F. No dry hits. No changes when going outside or picking up the device in the morning. I have yet to scrap a build that's not working. I'm not even checking for hot spots or anything: make coil, put in wick (I do spend a lot of time on the wick - see the whole rayon thread), fill tank, start vaping. I made 4 coils so far, 100% success rate.

As you know, my VF broke down recently with the stuck down-button. I'm now trying to decide a) if I sent it back under warranty and get a similar DNA40 installed or b) buy the new version of the board where you can lock the resistance, and install it myself. I'm sure you understand it's weird that I even consider doing b), but it's probably what I'm going for, unless VF can help me out/make me a deal.

Now, I don't pretend to know the why, ins, or outs, but I do know that for me personally, with the way I wick and vape, the Mini is working so well that I'm forgetting I'm running nickel builds. I don't say this to convince you, I'm writing this post to make it clear that I would expect the DNA40 to work better, yet the opposite is true (for me, I'll add). Even when running a 0.69 build (although for me a 0.9 or even 0.10 build works fine too), which, as you point out, should be more susceptible to minute changes in resistance. But it's not what I'm experiencing.

 

[Yozhik]

The resistance for Nickel changes with heat, and with gunk also.. So is it a good idea to check and sync the baseline resistance once in a while? Like after an hour or so of it just sitting and cooled?

With a new build, I may set the resistance more than once, just to make sure I've got it right. Otherwise, the resistance of the nickel should stay the same for a given temperature. Gunk may act as a heat insulator, which if so would cause the coil to retain heat more. If that's an issue and you don't want to build a new coil, my guess is that the fix would be to turn down the Joules in that situation.

 

[dr g]

My M Class is very inefficient with battery life. I suspect they will work on the BMS on the next update.

Charge your cell, and empty the capacity. Write down the Joules used, then repeat. Look for consistency to see if your cell is working well. That at least is how I use Joules.

Goods luck!

Well one probable reason for the battery life issues are the fact that the SXJ has 50% more power available and runs aggressively on the high side of temperatures. IMO the primary reason people like the SXJ better is that most of the time it's firing at way higher wattage and higher temperatures.

 

[scottwess]

Bought a lemo 2 today lol.

You'll really like it. Easy to build. Convenient refilling.

 

[chia]

You'll really like it. Easy to build. Convenient refilling.

After reading so much on the Lemo 2, I had to get one! Hope I get to love it as much as you guys!

 

[dannyben]

My like for like comparison? was with my VS rdna40 which I have since sold due to screen glitches rather than send it back to the US (I did tell the buyer about them).
I have had good and bad experiences using TP with both devices for different reasons but prefer the SX mini (slightly) for kanthal mode, due to the extra settings and the battery meter however, I feel that the optimisation of the Vaporshark with regards to battery life was vastly superior.
I'm not sure if I am imagining it but, after having the SX mini for 3 weeks now, I am getting the impression that the performance of my 3 new (genuine) Samsung 25r batteries is diminishing. Anybody feel the same? Is the constant temperature regulating killing my batteries quickly?

How does your battery life compare in power mode vs joules mode? Easy to tell using the joules meter. Im suspecting that in joules mode you may have the setting too high for your preferred temp. That will cause the devices "heartbeat" to be more rapid and eat more battery. You are better off using as low joules as possible to maintain your desired temp and using the powerful or powerful+ modes to reach the temp quicker as an alternative. Should give you much longer battery life.

Also the Samsungs are great batteries and yours are new (so you shouldnt have this yet) but.... The nature of the INR technology is that you will LOSE 1% of the battery's ratings approx every 6 days of charging. ie, after 8 months of every day charging instead of 2500mAh/20A continuous you will have 1500mAh/12A.

25R's have a great pulse of up to 100A, which makes them a great battery for a Mech Mod or Bypass mode, but why i prefer the IMR tech of the LG HE4's for a regulated mod.

Anyway..... lots of us don't even flinch at getting the newest and latest mod. $200 for this one, but yet when it comes to batteries, some try and milk them for up to two years. Prices have come down drastically for them and being less expensive then a venti late @ Starbucks. For safety and performance i'd recommend replacing every 6 months.

 

[scottwess]

After reading so much on the Lemo 2, I had to get one! Hope I get to love it as much as you guys!

Only thing differently I would like to see on the Lemo tanks would be for them to clean the machine oil off before shipping. After a little dawn detergent you are left with a very nice tank. You'll like it.

 

[wrice4]

If anyone read my above post with my atlantis rba build then this question is for you people that know about standard/micro builds, because I only started building standard spaces wraps once tc came along.

Flavor is good on my 5 wrap .059 ohm, and vapor production decent, but I want more. If I did a micro coil, let's say 10-12 wraps, that would help flavor and vapor production increase due to the added surface area right?

 

[chia]

Only thing differently I would like to see on the Lemo tanks would be for them to clean the machine oil off before shipping. After a little dawn detergent you are left with a very nice tank. You'll like it.

Well I just build it up.. 0.11 ohm ... Nice, but not as nice as the kf4.. Next tank will try to bring down the ohms and see.. Since I cannot change my build now without draining the tank..

 

[cdrice15]

Reading about the battery life and I can't complain. I had a VS rdna before the sx and I get about the same amount of time out of my battery. I get up about 7:00 in the morning and generally make it til about 7 -9 that night. By the joules count I get about 20000 joules out a battery. Running Samsung 25r's vaping at 400f and 22j.

 

[Pete54]

Ok, I'll chime in here. Owned a DNA40 device from get go. Never had a problem so I guess I was one of the lucky ones. I learned how to build coils that worked very well but it required quite a bit of fiddling. Bought an SX Mini M class and sold my DNA40 within 12 hours of using it. I'm not saying it's better or more accurate (it isn't). What I'm saying is this. All I want from a TL device is a great vape and no dry hits. I don't give a damn about the technical aspects of each board. With the 350j I just throw a coil on, set it 19joules, fire it and watch the temp and then adjust the temp to where it levels off. that could be 280° with a twisted 30g build or 440° with a 26g single build. I get a great vape and the device lets me know when I need to refill or re-drip before any dry hit or burnt cotton. I realize that there's a huge variation between 280° and 440° but as long as the vape is great and no dry hits, who cares! Both the 350j and DNA40 suffer from over analysis. For me, the difference between the two boards is with one I just need to dial in the temp setting and I'm done. With the other I left the temp at 410° and had to fiddle with the coil to make it vape great.
Battery life is about the same using either board in my experience but I much prefer how I can tell exactly how much battery life is left by looking at the total joules used. I tend to switch out batteries at 17-18k so I know exactly where I stand at all times. Much better than the wonky DNA40 system.

 

[chia]

As you know, I have both devices.



On paper, if I never had used either device, I would assume that the way Evolv does things should be more accurate. In the real world, it turns out the opposite is true; I get way more predictable results with the Mini. It never tries to bite me in the behind. It never suddenly gives a massive surge burning the cotton before it thinks it's at 400°F. No dry hits. No changes when going outside or picking up the device in the morning. I have yet to scrap a build that's not working. I'm not even checking for hot spots or anything: make coil, put in wick (I do spend a lot of time on the wick - see the whole rayon thread), fill tank, start vaping. I made 4 coils so far, 100% success rate.

As you know, my VF broke down recently with the stuck down-button. I'm now trying to decide a) if I sent it back under warranty and get a similar DNA40 installed or b) buy the new version of the board where you can lock the resistance, and install it myself. I'm sure you understand it's weird that I even consider doing b), but it's probably what I'm going for, unless VF can help me out/make me a deal.

Now, I don't pretend to know the why, ins, or outs, but I do know that for me personally, with the way I wick and vape, the Mini is working so well that I'm forgetting I'm running nickel builds. I don't say this to convince you, I'm writing this post to make it clear that I would expect the DNA40 to work better, yet the opposite is true (for me, I'll add). Even when running a 0.69 build (although for me a 0.9 or even 0.10 build works fine too), which, as you point out, should be more susceptible to minute changes in resistance. But it's not what I'm experiencing.

Dun mind me asking.. What build for your dna40? I had ending issues like yours too, til I gave up and used kanthal for the dna40s I had. After gettin the SX somehow pique my interest in TC again and went back to nickel for the dna40s. What I found is the dna40s seems to work better(for me anyway) at higher resistance, like 0.1-0.15. Maybe you can try.
Meanwhile the SX seems stable as rock once the initial setting is done, be it at 0.06 or 0.13.. No nasty hot vape for me

 

[Bikenstein]

The dna 40 and the SX Mini may or may not be accurate, may or may not have issues that can be corrected, may or may not be politically correct, but I think both are doin a helluva job for me and I think they are by far the best mods I've owned.

 

[beez0527]

Ok, I'll chime in here. Owned a DNA40 device from get go. Never had a problem so I guess I was one of the lucky ones. I learned how to build coils that worked very well but it required quite a bit of fiddling. Bought an SX Mini M class and sold my DNA40 within 12 hours of using it. I'm not saying it's better or more accurate (it isn't). What I'm saying is this. All I want from a TL device is a great vape and no dry hits. I don't give a damn about the technical aspects of each board. With the 350j I just throw a coil on, set it 19joules, fire it and watch the temp and then adjust the temp to where it levels off. that could be 280° with a twisted 30g build or 440° with a 26g single build. I get a great vape and the device lets me know when I need to refill or re-drip before any dry hit or burnt cotton. I realize that there's a huge variation between 280° and 440° but as long as the vape is great and no dry hits, who cares! Both the 350j and DNA40 suffer from over analysis. For me, the difference between the two boards is with one I just need to dial in the temp setting and I'm done. With the other I left the temp at 410° and had to fiddle with the coil to make it vape great.
Battery life is about the same using either board in my experience but I much prefer how I can tell exactly how much battery life is left by looking at the total joules used. I tend to switch out batteries at 17-18k so I know exactly where I stand at all times. Much better than the wonky DNA40 system.

I have been reading all of the posts here lately and was getting ready to write something very similar, dont think i could have said it any better I've used several tc devices and the sx is by far the best vape period. With different atty's and juice I always get a great tasting vape with some fine tuning like you stated watching the temp then settling at the temp it goes up to and if i want a warmer vape thats when i will switch the modes.

 

[Bikenstein]

I found I had bought some counterfeit VTC 5s with the use of the joules recorder on the SX. I got a refund. It's also interesting to see that the batteries increase in performance and then level out after a few charges. I like that feature also because it helps me compare batteries.

 

[BNEAT]

First off, I don't have an SX-m, and unless something happens to my DNA device, I probably won't get one (if I had the funds, I'd have two!) Except for one of my Lemos (Lemo1) I never have to fiddle with my builds and I never have a problem with Refinement, and it sounds like I'd have the same results with the Yihi board, including my problematic Lemo.

Like it's been stated many times before in these TC threads, as the attys get better and more stable and we get better at building for TC applications, the boards are going to appear to perform better. Even experienced vapers (like PB) have had to re-learn a lot.

For the first two attempts at TC devices, I think both of these companies have succeeded in glorious fashion. We may look back and chuckle at both of them, but for now, I couldn't be happier, and I can't wait to see what's next!

edit: I will never buy another non-user-updatable TC device...just sayin. (even my antique eVic is updatable)

 

[tchavei]

Dun mind me asking.. What build for your dna40? I had ending issues like yours too, til I gave up and used kanthal for the dna40s I had. After gettin the SX somehow pique my interest in TC again and went back to nickel for the dna40s. What I found is the dna40s seems to work better(for me anyway) at higher resistance, like 0.1-0.15. Maybe you can try.
Meanwhile the SX seems stable as rock once the initial setting is done, be it at 0.06 or 0.13.. No nasty hot vape for me

I can confirm that. Since I started to build between 0.28 up to 0.5, I couldn't be happier. I have one particular atty rock solid at 0.32 Ohms for almost a full month now and I hardly remove it from my mod.

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

 

[TheotherSteveS]

Ahh, I see. I must have misread something along the way. I thought you were wanting to put together a "Troubleshooting Guide for the SXmini M" Which by the way I think would be a great idea to have a sticky on the first page with such a guide for current and new owners alike. Any volunteers to put it together?

i think i suggested this about 10 pages ago lol!!