SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)

[JimScotty0]

Busardo found that the SX's TC uses PWM. Anyone hear a rattlesnake in TC mode?

He actually updated it in his comments section to be PFM or Pulse Frequency Modulation which is used during TC mode. Some people hear it and others don't. I find that at the higher Joules settings you can slightly hear a hum. If you are in a quiet room you may hear it slightly.

 

[2legsshrt]

AW IMR 18650 are 20A, hell, their 350/490 are 12/18 respectively

THE WGU CLUB
Card Carrying Member/Co-Founder

I know the 2200MaH batteries are but I wasn't sure about the older ones. I have 10 of the 2200's but the older ones the 2000MaH are 10amp the 1600MaH are 24amp at least that is what it says on Tasteyourjuice.com

 

[dr g]

Busardo found that the SX's TC uses PWM. Anyone hear a rattlesnake in TC mode?

Yes, it is a clear rattlesnake when it happens, which is when the board is throttling back significantly to try to hold temperature.

 

[Jazzman]

Yes, it is a clear rattlesnake when it happens, which is when the board is throttling back significantly to try to hold temperature.

You're wrong

 

[tommytwotime]

The update to 2.1 is live. Installed and working well on my m class.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[tommytwotime]

Introduces disabling the gravity sensor and eco mode. Seems like there is a bug in the mode settings. It now flows from soft > eco > standard > powerfu+ > powerful. Sensor is an on/off option in the menu. The screen orientation still adjusts with the sensor disabled. 50w max in joule mode/60w max in power mode with one 18650. Cannot verify 150w as I do not have a battery tube.


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[littlewierdo]

Just an fyi, you will need to reinstall the driver if you already have it installed.

Requires Windows and a PC.

Go here (SXmini maker,SXmini,yihisxmini,yihiecigar,sx350,yihi sx350, yihi sx350 mini, yihiecigar sx350 mini, gravity sensor,www.yihisxmini.com,120w device) and scroll all the way to the bottom of the page, in the 3 column from the left is a download section, start by downloading the driver (do not close the browser) and install like usual.

On this same page, right below the driver, there are two files, Upgrade firmware for m class 120 watts and another for 150 watts. They both work, have no idea what the difference is between them as far as functionality or performance (I installed both and functionality wise, they were identical).

The first bit is the name of the file, the second number is the size of the file after its been unzipped, the third is the date the file was modified. Which one you should use is as good a guess as mine, but they do both work and are functional, by the way, the Powerful and Powerfu+ is reversed with both of these files so the same bug even exists.

I am using the 120 watt file in case you want to know which one I decided to keep (again, I verified that they both work).

SXmini-M Class 1st upgrade software_SXmini_Logo-120W_20150525-1424_V2.1.SXI --> 115,313 --> 5/22/15

SXmini-M Class 1st upgrade software_SXmini_Logo-150W_20150525-1711_V2.1.SXI --> 115,353 --> 5/22/15

Whichever you decide to use, extract them somewhere you can locate (they must be extracted, the SXI software wont accept a rar file).

Now, open the software, it can be found in your start menu under All Programs-->Yihi SXI-->SXI (right click on SXI and run as administrator, click the ok box to confirm when it appears).

Now press your fire button on your SX Mini 5 times and continue pressing the fire button until you get to link off, press your up button to turn link on, then plug in to your pc.

When the program opens, click Connection, then click Install Driver, then click the Start Windows 7 or Windows 8 (32X or 64X) setting button.

In the new window, you should see your SX Mini listed in the dropdown, click the button right below that to install the driver (Install WCID Driver) and confirm any prompts that appear (I believe there is an unsigned certificate that will appear, click ok).

Once done, you can close the window with the dropdown box and you should see the previous window that was open, you'll now click the Connect button and in green, it should tell you the device is connected.

Now, at the top, click the return button and click the Upgrade button. Click the open file button and locate the firmware file you downloaded and extracted earlier and click open (or double click on the file).

Now, verify the message below the upgrade button, it should be completely green, if any part of it is red, you probably have the wrong file or the software isnt seeing your device. If everything is green, click the upgrade button and you should see a progress indicator, when it reaches 100%, youre done.

 

[littlewierdo]

Yes, it is a clear rattlesnake when it happens, which is when the board is throttling back significantly to try to hold temperature.

Eh, I dont hear a rattlesnake, but Im using a low wattage / Joules (15-18 watts or Joules) at 430-440 degrees in temp control.

My understanding is that you'll get a slight rattlesnake sound (but not near as bad) if you set the temp really high, like 35W+ with a super low temp setting (like under 350ish), which if you are doing, you are doing it wrong.

You want your Joules (as Yihi sent a response back to me about) set so that, when your coil is cold (device has sat for about 5-10 minutes) have the device set to Standard, it should take about 2-4 seconds for your coil to hit your set temperature while NOT taking a hit (hit the fire button and watch the temp go up, it should hit your set temp within 2-4 seconds, if its faster than 2 seconds, lower your Joules.

GENERALLY SPEAKING, take your temperature, strip off the number on the end, and divide by 4 and that will give you a good starting place for your Joules. Example, 440 degrees, strip the 0 off (44) and divide by 4 and you get 11, start with your Joules around 11. If the ramp up time is too slow, use the Powerful setting. You want to keep your Joules under 20-25, anything higher than 25 and you for sure get the rattlesnake sound.

Like I said above, I use around 15-18 watts / Joules at 430-440 degrees, in fact, Ill even put the Joules at 11-13 and use the Powerful function instead. Kind of depends on the liquid.

Just remember, there is no reason to have your Joules very high, use the temp control if you need more power.

 

[WideO]

Introduces disabling the gravity sensor and eco mode. Seems like there is a bug in the mode settings. It now flows from soft > eco > standard > powerfu+ > powerful. Sensor is an on/off option in the menu. The screen orientation still adjusts with the sensor disabled. 50w max in joule mode/60w max in power mode with one 18650. Cannot verify 150w as I do not have a battery tube.

Installed it as well. I had to try a few times to install the driver, first few times it timed out and gave extremely funny messages in the process - who says the Chinese don't have a sense of humor.

After that it worked fine. Yes, noticed the reversal of Powerful and Powerful+. Sensor off was the first thing I did...

Not sure yet what they fixed or didn't fix.

 

[dr g]

My understanding is that you'll get a slight rattlesnake sound (but not near as bad) if you set the temp really high, like 35W+ with a super low temp setting (like under 350ish), which if you are doing, you are doing it wrong.

Wrong for the chipset perhaps but not wrong for TP in general. Prior existing boards can control temperature at maximum power and minimum temperature. Dealing with extreme/outlier conditions is kind of the point of TP.

 

[chia]

Eh, I dont hear a rattlesnake, but Im using a low wattage / Joules (15-18 watts or Joules) at 430-440 degrees in temp control.

My understanding is that you'll get a slight rattlesnake sound (but not near as bad) if you set the temp really high, like 35W+ with a super low temp setting (like under 350ish), which if you are doing, you are doing it wrong.

You want your Joules (as Yihi sent a response back to me about) set so that, when your coil is cold (device has sat for about 5-10 minutes) have the device set to Standard, it should take about 2-4 seconds for your coil to hit your set temperature while NOT taking a hit (hit the fire button and watch the temp go up, it should hit your set temp within 2-4 seconds, if its faster than 2 seconds, lower your Joules.

GENERALLY SPEAKING, take your temperature, strip off the number on the end, and divide by 4 and that will give you a good starting place for your Joules. Example, 440 degrees, strip the 0 off (44) and divide by 4 and you get 11, start with your Joules around 11. If the ramp up time is too slow, use the Powerful setting. You want to keep your Joules under 20-25, anything higher than 25 and you for sure get the rattlesnake sound.

Like I said above, I use around 15-18 watts / Joules at 430-440 degrees, in fact, Ill even put the Joules at 11-13 and use the Powerful function instead. Kind of depends on the liquid.

Just remember, there is no reason to have your Joules very high, use the temp control if you need more power.

0.11ohms.. Set to 420deg f. If I set the joules to 20j I only gets to 200+ , now at 35j, reaching 400..
Am I doing something wrong?

 

[chia]

Anyone knows what the new Eco mode does?

 

[ZeroOhm]

Is the new firmware available? YiHi said May its the 25th already!

Vape on!

 

[tommytwotime]

Is the new firmware available? YiHi said May its the 25th already!

Vape on!

Available as of this morning. Scroll back a few posts.


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[Quantum Mech]

Upgraded .... I wont mention how many days it took off my life when complete the mini would not turn on

Pulling the battery cured it

 

[Bimini Twist]

Seems like there is a bug in the mode settings. It now flows from soft > eco > standard > powerfu+ > powerful. Sensor is an on/off option in the menu. The screen orientation still adjusts with the sensor disabled. 50w max in joule mode/60w max in power mode with one 18650. Cannot verify 150w as I do not have a battery tube.

BTW, is there an option to save the current (pre-installed) version before running the update? Just in case I might want to revert to the older version.

ETA: Thanks to this thread (nearly as contentious as a Provari bashing thread), I ordered a black/silver M Class and a chip from Varitube. They're on the way to my post office for expected delivery tomorrow.

 

[benzinojamin]

Just an fyi, you will need to reinstall the driver if you already have it installed.

Requires Windows and a PC.

Go here (SXmini maker,SXmini,yihisxmini,yihiecigar,sx350,yihi sx350, yihi sx350 mini, yihiecigar sx350 mini, gravity sensor,www.yihisxmini.com,120w device) and scroll all the way to the bottom of the page, in the 3 column from the left is a download section, start by downloading the driver (do not close the browser) and install like usual.

On this same page, right below the driver, there are two files, Upgrade firmware for m class 120 watts and another for 150 watts. They both work, have no idea what the difference is between them as far as functionality or performance (I installed both and functionality wise, they were identical).

The first bit is the name of the file, the second number is the size of the file after its been unzipped, the third is the date the file was modified. Which one you should use is as good a guess as mine, but they do both work and are functional, by the way, the Powerful and Powerfu+ is reversed with both of these files so the same bug even exists.

I am using the 120 watt file in case you want to know which one I decided to keep (again, I verified that they both work).

SXmini-M Class 1st upgrade software_SXmini_Logo-120W_20150525-1424_V2.1.SXI --> 115,313 --> 5/22/15

SXmini-M Class 1st upgrade software_SXmini_Logo-150W_20150525-1711_V2.1.SXI --> 115,353 --> 5/22/15

Whichever you decide to use, extract them somewhere you can locate (they must be extracted, the SXI software wont accept a rar file).

Now, open the software, it can be found in your start menu under All Programs-->Yihi SXI-->SXI (right click on SXI and run as administrator, click the ok box to confirm when it appears).

Now press your fire button on your SX Mini 5 times and continue pressing the fire button until you get to link off, press your up button to turn link on, then plug in to your pc.

When the program opens, click Connection, then click Install Driver, then click the Start Windows 7 or Windows 8 (32X or 64X) setting button.

In the new window, you should see your SX Mini listed in the dropdown, click the button right below that to install the driver (Install WCID Driver) and confirm any prompts that appear (I believe there is an unsigned certificate that will appear, click ok).

Once done, you can close the window with the dropdown box and you should see the previous window that was open, you'll now click the Connect button and in green, it should tell you the device is connected.

Now, at the top, click the return button and click the Upgrade button. Click the open file button and locate the firmware file you downloaded and extracted earlier and click open (or double click on the file).

Now, verify the message below the upgrade button, it should be completely green, if any part of it is red, you probably have the wrong file or the software isnt seeing your device. If everything is green, click the upgrade button and you should see a progress indicator, when it reaches 100%, youre done.

Thanks for detailed process for upgrade .

I'm having troubles installing the driver. I get to the point where I should see the device in the drop down menu but it does not appear.

I started the process over a couple times, used different usb ports on the laptop, but same result.

I did plug the device in while it was booted to test the micro usb port and it did charge, so that seems to be okay.

Any advice?

 

[Vlad1]

Thanks for detailed process for upgrade .

I'm having troubles installing the driver. I get to the point where I should see the device in the drop down menu but it does not appear.

I started the process over a couple times, used different usb ports on the laptop, but same result.

I did plug the device in while it was booted to test the micro usb port and it did charge, so that seems to be okay.

Any advice?

I've found Link to be quirky at times, It's always been easier / faster for me to do updates without the Link function for some reason.

Try installing the SXI installer on your pc.
Take the battery out of your device and leave it out, until completed
Open the SXI installer software
Connect the SXmini M to your pc (Make sure your using the data cable) or known good usb data cable. Not all are data
Select the connection icon
Click connect.

If you get this far you can do the update.

 

[derogg]

If anyone cares, Rip gave the M class his seal of approval on his new You Tube review.

 

[clarkstachio]

Is anyone having an issue with the mini in TC mode, reading the resistance too low at the time it is locked in? For example, I have the subtank mini OCC nickel coils with an advertised resistance of .15 ohms. I put the coil on an ohm reader and it reads at .15. I put it on the sx mini (both coil and device are room temperature), and I get a reading of .12 ohms. This same thing happens on other atomizers and builds. It always seems to read about .02 to .03 ohms lower.

This is not much of an issue when using Kanthal in non-temp mode, but with nickel in temp mode it makes all the difference in the world. I get very poor performance across all temp/joules ranges. To "hack" it and register it at the resistance I know it should be, I fire the coil once and lock it in once it gets to around .15 ohms (in the case of the occ nickel coil). The device then works flawlessly.

Is there something I'm doing horribly wrong, or do I have a defective device?