SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)

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Quantum Mech

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Been using Ti coils, I am using some liquids that are prone to gunking coils.

So its a preliminary observation but I am using two tanks identical and using gunking liquids in each and changed flavors in them etc

So one coil I preheat at very low watts until it starts to color blues some yellow, purple, the other I did not preheat/color, so when I went to rewick them I ended up having to changed out the non preheated/non colorful coil because the juice had really embedded itself to the coil, to much to fool with after making some effort, while the preheated one was much easier to clean, is this a coincidence or has this been experienced by other?

I have been too busy of late with work and just been chucking my coils in wicking and juiceing

Then running at 5j for a few seconds then 14j then back to my usual 17j

I noticed on this weeks coil change they were much more gunked than previously when I had been oxidising them with a lamp first

I took little notice till now but makes sense that the coloured oxidisation is forming a more resilient barrier than clean wire
 
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druckle

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I have been too busy of late with work and just been chucking my coils in wicking and juiceing

Then running at 5j for a few seconds then 14j then back to my usual 17j

I noticed on this weeks coil change they were much more gunked than previously when I had been oxidising them with a lamp first

I took little notice till now but makes sense that the coloured oxidisation is forming a more resilient barrier than clean wire

I'll have to give that a try. The juice I use isn't very "gunky" but there are patches sometimes that take a little encouragement to come clean. I'm going to give that slow/cool burn a try on my next new coil. That would definitely be a benefit.

Duane
 
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peraspera

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guys how do you clean your nickel coil without dry burning it? I'm getting tired of rebuilding everyday. thanks!
I have found that, for me, it is faster to rebuild my single Ni200 coils than it took to fuss with dry burning my Kanthal coils. Dual coils take about the same amount of time. I pre-clean a bunch of wire in my ultrasonic cleaner.

Then I use the Coil Master to pre-wind a lot of coils and put them in small bead jars labeled with wire type, gauge and estimated resistance from Steam Engine. This mini production approach saves a me lot of time taken up by dragging out building supplies and putting it all away for every build.
 

jazzvaper

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I have found that, for me, it is faster to rebuild my single Ni200 coils than it took to fuss with dry burning my Kanthal coils. Dual coils take about the same amount of time. I pre-clean a bunch of wire in my ultrasonic cleaner.

Then I use the Coil Master to pre-wind a lot of coils and put them in small bead jars labeled with wire type, gauge and estimated resistance from Steam Engine. This mini production approach saves a me lot of time taken up by dragging out building supplies and putting it all away for every build.

Bravo!!!
 

dems86

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I have found that, for me, it is faster to rebuild my single Ni200 coils than it took to fuss with dry burning my Kanthal coils. Dual coils take about the same amount of time. I pre-clean a bunch of wire in my ultrasonic cleaner.

Then I use the Coil Master to pre-wind a lot of coils and put them in small bead jars labeled with wire type, gauge and estimated resistance from Steam Engine. This mini production approach saves a me lot of time taken up by dragging out building supplies and putting it all away for every build.
Oh damn, that's a great idea. I'm gonna toss some nickel and titanium in the ultra sonic this weekend...this is why I love this place, this idea would have never come to me, lol

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
 

2legsshrt

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I have found that, for me, it is faster to rebuild my single Ni200 coils than it took to fuss with dry burning my Kanthal coils. Dual coils take about the same amount of time. I pre-clean a bunch of wire in my ultrasonic cleaner.

Then I use the Coil Master to pre-wind a lot of coils and put them in small bead jars labeled with wire type, gauge and estimated resistance from Steam Engine. This mini production approach saves a me lot of time taken up by dragging out building supplies and putting it all away for every build.
Have you seen the new coil master
 

digital_karma

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I wash it off under the tap and use a toothbrush to get most of the crud off!

will try this method. thanks!

I have found that, for me, it is faster to rebuild my single Ni200 coils than it took to fuss with dry burning my Kanthal coils. Dual coils take about the same amount of time. I pre-clean a bunch of wire in my ultrasonic cleaner.

Then I use the Coil Master to pre-wind a lot of coils and put them in small bead jars labeled with wire type, gauge and estimated resistance from Steam Engine. This mini production approach saves a me lot of time taken up by dragging out building supplies and putting it all away for every build.

this is a good idea, gonna try this also. thanks!
 

JimScotty0

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Oh damn, that's a great idea. I'm gonna toss some nickel and titanium in the ultra sonic this weekend...this is why I love this place, this idea would have never come to me, lol

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
That is what I have been doing for a few months now. It takes away any chemical or machine oil taste you get for the first day or so with a new coil.
 

Hitcat44

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2 Magnasonic Cleaners in the ol' ebay Watch List. Choose and acquire 1 for the Wife today.
Man, is She gonna be so surprised and overwhelmed with Appreciation for her new Jewelry Re-Conditioner!
That thing is deceivingly roomy I would think. Might as well throw some 6" Sections of Ti in there to round out the Cleaning Chamber. I hear her Jewelry will get even cleaner with the added Ti Ions assisting the Ultrasonic Process. Bet an RTA tossed in would help even that much more.

Didn't get to Ti-Up the Lemo 2 last night. Dr. Deere's Office called on my way Home and said I needed an emergency Counseling Session with intense Mowing Therapy. Disappointing but he is always right.
Couple hours of that with some Classic Rock and all the frustrations of the Work Day just melted away with every clipped Blade.
That'll free up tonight for the Mission if all the Id-Jitz from the Work Day don't prey too hard on the mind & soul today.
 
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Unior

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I am getting a SXM & have 2 questions:
1. Which finish seems to hold up better? The one with the black all around it & silver on the palm portion or the more common one with silver all around the mod & black in the middle? Or does it even matter b/c if u want it to keep it looking good u have to put a $7 sleeve on a $200 dollar mod as others have stated.
2. What is the best reading and/or video source that gives a good concise explanation of SXM functions & capabilities?
Other than reading all 300+ pages of this thread. BTW I have started that but wondering if there is something else. I have been using temp. Control but with Evolv DNa chip. Have not used joules & also need a run down of SXM menu configuration.
Thanks!!!
 
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