SXmini mod ... Yihi
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unfortunately not under warranty 'cause you opened it but i would have it sealed up and fixed even if it cost $$$$ or get a can of flexseal and use the sx mini in your screen door boat.... ask phil swift and say hello to the little fishies........
Haha gotcha....thanks for the clarification...makes total sense about the memory for different attys!
I am playing with it as we speak and am slowly but surely figuring it out...really impressed by the overall quality of the mod. I'd say it was $200(ish) well spent!
I told you I thought the issue was your fire button sticking 
Well, I am glad that you didn't kill it by opening it, but what you have reported is not good. Just be careful dear now that you have seen that liquid can get inside the body. But happier still that you Mini is alive and working.
Well, I am glad that you didn't kill it by opening it, but what you have reported is not good. Just be careful dear now that you have seen that liquid can get inside the body. But happier still that you Mini is alive and working. So my mini fire button did stick on again, don't tell Nikki, but I decided to open the bugger up, could not see anything to where they could tell you have opened it.
Sorry but got to a bit negative here, I was not impressed with the inside of this mod for the price point, as I feared, moisture is getting inside the mod, and from what I could tell, it is getting through the 510 connection, as that is where the most moisture was, but due to the moisture, all the screws on one side that hold the board onto the mod are rusted, and right where the screw holding on the fire button actual has corrosion around it. To me the unit should not let any moisture inside it.
Most alarming thing I found, is a black wire going from the battery tube to the board had a chunk of the protective cover missing, so the wire is exposed to touch anything, and it wasn't from me opening it either, not a expert on these things, but sure not good exposed wire that could touch the body though, and I doubt it, but could even be that wire causing my problems.
I covered up the wire and dried off the inside with cotton buds, and put back together and is now working again for the moment, I don't think be to hard to seal the sides of the case from moisture, but not sure be easy to do the same to the 510.
Still love the chip in this thing, and it is solid, but not same quality on the inside and surprised more people not having problems if not sealed from moisture getting in it, yes a tank shouldn't leak, but most mods will see some juice moisture at some time.
Anyway, back to seeing how long it will last this time
I was just going to post "This is what DP2Raja was talking about!"See, you spoke it into existence
Exactly...I'm on a roll, feeling the "think it and make it real" kind of vibe.....I'm thinking about Million Bucks....let's see what happens.
That is a smart and practical idea, I just wasn't sure if we would be seeing the new temperature sensing chip with the SXmini, or if it would be the chip itself as I thought the SXmini was to be a limited edition thing. Of course if they bring a whole new device I am getting one, even if I have four of the older one's by that time.
The Sxmini is my favorite regulated device at moment and I don't see that changing in near future. I can't say that I still won't get another one in the interim because the chip is superior IMO, so it certainly couldn't hurt to have a back up.
That shouldn't be hun, mine have never leaked.
Neither of my Aquas leak at all. Peter, is your leaking through the air hole or the 510?
it was the air hole but i have gotten it solved- was going for the humor more than the reality....no, my aqua works fine but i do use the rda more often now as i am into those right now. then when i get tired of dripping it will be back to the tanks. it is my vaping cycle and it wouldn't be so bad except everytime i switch back from one to the other i have to get a few more of whatever cycle i am in- lately i have been buying rtas and then i will be buying rdas. it can get pretty expensive but i use the time old rational of all vapors- it still is cheaper than smoking...the dirty little secret of vaping is that buying gear is the new habit not the nicotine as in smoking.it is a heck of a lot more fun though.....
It's a K-pico inspired build, and It's put together with clear Kayfun short tank (not quite as small as nano), clear Kayfun top cap, some chimney mod and home made driptip. All parts came from FT.
More pictures and details on this build here. http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/rta/638103-silverplay-rta-clouds-go-19.html
thanks for the info- will put something together and give it a go......!
So my mini fire button did stick on again, don't tell Nikki, but I decided to open the bugger up, could not see anything to where they could tell you have opened it.
Sorry but got to a bit negative here, I was not impressed with the inside of this mod for the price point, as I feared, moisture is getting inside the mod, and from what I could tell, it is getting through the 510 connection, as that is where the most moisture was, but due to the moisture, all the screws on one side that hold the board onto the mod are rusted, and right where the screw holding on the fire button actual has corrosion around it. To me the unit should not let any moisture inside it.
Most alarming thing I found, is a black wire going from the battery tube to the board had a chunk of the protective cover missing, so the wire is exposed to touch anything, and it wasn't from me opening it either, not a expert on these things, but sure not good exposed wire that could touch the body though, and I doubt it, but could even be that wire causing my problems.
I covered up the wire and dried off the inside with cotton buds, and put back together and is now working again for the moment, I don't think be to hard to seal the sides of the case from moisture, but not sure be easy to do the same to the 510.
Still love the chip in this thing, and it is solid, but not same quality on the inside and surprised more people not having problems if not sealed from moisture getting in it, yes a tank shouldn't leak, but most mods will see some juice moisture at some time.
Anyway, back to seeing how long it will last this time
were you able to check the fire button while opened? did you notice anything wrong?
hope it won't stick on anymore.
i noticed dust and small particles below the 510 (on the top cap of the battery tube) when opened mine. had to clean it twice, it seems to attract everything from outside. the 510 bottom hole is not sealed. the bottom phenolic big gasket of the pin, gets loose in that hole. and the whole 510 has not a mechanism to keep up in place other than the spring. hope that the new 510 is better sealed to reduce the entrance of the moisture.
btw, i've made another fix to the 510 of my sxmini, reinserting the spring and using a nylon washer and a nylon nut (the items i was able to get locally), as replacement of the broken phenolic upper gasket, like ZeroOhm suggested (his breakdown pics allowed me to take the case a bit apart, not breaking any soldering). now it's spring loaded again, and there is less risk when screwing a long 510 atty (can push it harder, the nylon resists much pressure). even you can unscrew (adjust) the pin a bit (not too much, if it gets pulled out, you'll have to open the mod), to make contact with short 510s. so i can say that my rookie fix has improved the original 510 =)) thank you!
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Sure Nikkita you can use my pics
Given its design I doubt you can fit a FDV as there is no clearance as the YiHi is completely flat at its base this is neither the case with many of the self adjusters where the base protrudes and the ouput wire needs clearance to move.
Ironically the HotCig Zero clone in the pic uses a Varitube rip off which is much better than the YiHi. There are a few issues with the mini as you can see the board is screwed into the Aluminium chassis with steel screws atleast 2 of these were just turning on one of mine as steel into Aluminium is pretty much a no go. The screws are tiny and Aluminium is too soft and just strips the threading.
The soldered 510 joint could easily fracture as the 510 is moving causing stress, the fire button is the standard one supplied when you buy the board YiHi have manufactured a brushed steel button using compression foam this is why some people have an off centred button dependant on how the button is pressed and I guess as the foam ages you may see the button lose it springiness or at worst collapse.
I remember someone posting about the mini being high end not here in the UK excluding the lower tier and non clones the mini is around RRP £150 or approx $US230 I will be completely honest and say there is no box mod / gripper I have seen that didn't have design faults I can only dream of power station specs on one but then again it may cost £500. I recently saw a Neo DNA 40 from De Rayyan Design $350 + shipping + customs the Yosen Zero was better made!
ZeroOhm,
I have a question about the 510 on the SXmini mod. While I am having no problem with mine at the present time, after looking at your photos and explanation of the inside of this mod it seems to me that this 510 might could be improved with a simple modification.
I agree it most likely is not possible to replace the 510 top cap with a FDV unit due to space limitations. However, would it be possible to leave the existing 510 top cap including it's ground wire on the mod and remove the entire spring loaded positive assembly. Then tap larger threads in the existing top cap that would allow the entire FDV spring loaded 510 top cap to be screwed in on top of the existing top cap. This would add about 2.5mm to the height of the mod. The bottom of the FDV assembly would them be a little higher up than the bottom of the silver housing of the mod.
Do you thank this would work ok? If this would work, it could help owners if they have problems with their 510 assembly.
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New SXmini
Dangit! Just when I thought I was out of GAS...they pull me back in!
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