SXmini mod ... Yihi

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Kenho21

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hopefully getting close for the M class ship date!

here is a reply I got from the shop I pre-ordered from;

"Yes, you were one of the first! Thanks!
I spoke with them this week and they were finalizing my color choices, so I know they are getting close. I am "hoping" they will ship towards the end of next week, but might be the beginning of the following. We are getting from their first week production run, so you'll be one of the first to get it.
I'll have another update on Monday (actually late Sunday night) if you want to touch base again next week.
Generally, we receive in just 2-3 business days after they ship, and we'll re-ship to you via USPS priority the day we get them..... right after i start playing with mine ;)"


I'll message him again tonight to see if he has heard anything over the weekend. This was from last friday.

Fingers crossed!

Last week when I messaged them they said they were expecting the devices to ship on the 20th from China and were hoping to receive them by the 24th...
 

JohnD0406

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Are you saying "overall"? The ones I'm using are only rated to 10A ,but I vape at 8-12 watts. Am I not in a safe range, since I'm still well below 10A output?

Trying to recall my entire post (remote desktop is painfully slow from work). Yes, a 10A (original AW) is safe at low wattage, but unless you calculate when the mod will hit a 10A draw at the 3.3V cutoff, it's best to just stick with the manufacturer recommended 20A battery. Most people don't realize that in a regulated mod, as your battery voltage drops, it's pulling more and more current. I only did the math to see that on the SXmini, at 60W and 3.3V battery, it's pulling 20A.

At 12W, when the battery gets down to 3.3V, the mod is pulling about 4A from the battery. You'd need to hit 30W to reach 10A. People with an Atlantis that typically run 20-25W and want to try 35W would be in trouble.

Also, note that it's best to have some headroom - running at the max is still not a good idea, especially as the battery ages.
 
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JohnD0406

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that gimlet looks pretty nice- my only hesitation would be the .2ohm coils and the time it takes to go through a battery. at .5-.7 i change batteries frequently and i can't imagine how often i would have to change at the lower ohms.

In response to this post and a few following this post, your battery drain would be exactly the same at the same wattage setting. You're too used to thinking in mechanical terms. In a regulated mod, coil resistance is irrelevant, as the mod adjusts voltage accordingly. To achieve the same wattage on a high or low ohm coil, the current draw from the battery is exactly the same. You're thinking of current at the coil, but as you know, the voltage is adjusted to achieve the wattage.

If you'd like to see proof of this in action, play with this - Battery drain | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators
 
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DPLongo22

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Trying to recall my entire post (remote desktop is painfully slow from work). Yes, a 10A (original AW) is safe at low wattage, but unless you calculate when the mod will hit a 10A draw at the 3.3V cutoff, it's best to just stick with the manufacturer recommended 20A battery. Most people don't realize that in a regulated mod, as your battery voltage drops, it's pulling more and more current. I only did the math to see that on the SXmini, at 60W and 3.3V battery, it's pulling 20A.

At 12W, when the battery gets down to 3.3V, the mod is pulling about 4A from the battery. You'd need to hit 30W to reach 10A. People with an Atlantis that typically run 20-25W and want to try 35W would be in trouble.

Also, note that it's best to have some headroom - running at the max is still not a good idea, especially as the battery ages.

Thanks - and agreed.
 

peterforpats

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rounding third and heading home...
In response to this post and a few following this post, your battery drain would be exactly the same at the same wattage setting. You're too used to thinking in mechanical terms. In a regulated mod, coil resistance is irrelevant, as the mod adjusts voltage accordingly. To achieve the same wattage on a high or low ohm coil, the current draw from the battery is exactly the same. You're thinking of current at the coil, but as you know, the voltage is adjusted to achieve the wattage.

If you'd like to see proof of this in action, play with this - Battery drain | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators

thanks, a real useful tool and just hitting the "like" button didn't seem enough. i really appreciate the link and enjoy using it often-very helpful!!
 

tc1

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In response to this post and a few following this post, your battery drain would be exactly the same at the same wattage setting. You're too used to thinking in mechanical terms. In a regulated mod, coil resistance is irrelevant, as the mod adjusts voltage accordingly. To achieve the same wattage on a high or low ohm coil, the current draw from the battery is exactly the same. You're thinking of current at the coil, but as you know, the voltage is adjusted to achieve the wattage.

If you'd like to see proof of this in action, play with this - Battery drain | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators

Crapola ... yeah, I was thinking of VV, not VW for some reason. Good catch.
 

Tamer El-Meehy

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You can use the AW 18650 button top in the SX mini. I use flat tops, but as far as I know there is enough spring play to use a button top.
Anyone else using button tops?

Also, I charge my batteries by removing them from the mod. I have never use the USB charger port. I get a full day of vaping with one battery most days...except some weekends when I tend to have time to vape a bit more than a work day. I use purple Efest, 2500mah.

I run a SubTank mini at 0.5 ohms at about 25-31 watts and a Delta II at about 35 watts all day long.

The purple Efests are really good. I get a good day of vaping with them too


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Tamer El-Meehy

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oops. a large patch of the paint just "ripped" off of it. it's alright I have had it a long time already. if they anodized it, it might last longer but even that will eventually chip away.

Oh crap!...it's painted?? I thought it was adonized!


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JulesXsmokr

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oops. a large patch of the paint just "ripped" off of it. it's alright I have had it a long time already. if they anodized it, it might last longer but even that will eventually chip away.

got a pic?

mine is anodized, or it seems.
Mine is scratched and scraped, and nothing is peeling or chipped any where.
Just wearing away some in my pockets that are filled with all kinds of other stuff while I'm at work.
 

Demiurgous

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