- Status
I forgot about my cana dna30 clone. It's algo got a TGT on it. So will my ZNA clone, whenever it gets here.
Keep those suggestions coming gang! Totally forgot about the Gaia as well, and I was just looking at those a few weeks ago!
I'll probably go with the copper one from FT.
Keep those suggestions coming gang! Totally forgot about the Gaia as well, and I was just looking at those a few weeks ago!
I'll probably go with the copper one from FT.
It's conductive alright. You just have to oxidize your SS mash very carefully:
Here is high ohm Provari build
Or a sub ohm mechanical mod build:
Last edited:
Look pretty big in ipv har and i have replaced my taifun bottom spring and o ring to insulator..so far no leaks or shorts..wipee
What juice is that? It's green! I want some lol
After seeing the pics of the insulator in the base, can the base be taken apart easily and put back together?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I will post this again for the few that are having problems with the TGT. I had shorting problems and fixed them HERE is the post of what I did. Good luck everyone.
Be aware that Fasttech is selling replacement plastic thanks for Taifun GT but from what I can see these tanks only work with the gold or blue TGT's that FT sell (probably Rainbow). The upper part of the tank threads into the stainless part not press fit as with originals and 1:1 clones. Now I'm going to get me some of them when it known if they fit GG clones 'cause that's what they look like.
These are the half tanks not full or nano.
These are the half tanks not full or nano.
Hi mate..it a green mango flavour..Th is good but flavour just so so for me.
I'm not talking about the base insulator..what I meant is the bottom base O ring with the spring which replaced by a small cut out insulator..
I don't consider the 510 screw "adjustable" on the TGT, at least not very much anyway. That little o-ring must be compressed at least some or whenever any liquid gets into the base it's going to leak there first before the air inlet (usually anyways). I only get an occasional drop in there when my screw gets turned out too far.
On one of mine I've added a small spacer that kind of resembles the little o-ring but it's hard like delrin so I can have the screw extended a bit and still keep the seal on the o-ring.
On one of mine I've added a small spacer that kind of resembles the little o-ring but it's hard like delrin so I can have the screw extended a bit and still keep the seal on the o-ring.
Hey guys, I've got my first Taifun GT (FT clone) on the way and am doing my research to be ready for it's arrival!! I've never used SS Mesh and am intimidated about getting it oxidized correctly. Is there more involved than torching the crap out of it (won't be a problem
)? Is it better than KGD, echo, OC etc?
Hiya zipflint, I'm in Greer about 5 miles from you. Small world, huh? Have you thought of putting a set of magnets in place of your spring in the Hammer clone? I just won a Panzer Golden Army by MCV Phillipines and mic'd the top (which is slightly larger than the tube(s). It's 25.58mm (not sure about the other Panzers), has a floating solid copper 510 pin and copper negative contact (virtually no voltage drop according to my DMM). There's surely clones of this beast that measure out the same and have quality connections (also sold in an upgrade kit for them). Here's a pic showing the wide topcap I'm talking about.
AMD, I've used that pic in your AVI several times in contest threads....LOVE IT!!
I'm assuming you added the Top Fill Holes seen here on you TGT (nice!). I was contemplating doing the same thing but worried about flooding, gurgling (increased juice pressure/weight?) or starving (is air space for vacuum necessary?) Did adding them affect performance or function at all?
Thanks
)? Is it better than KGD, echo, OC etc?It's daunting to sift through 164 pages of this thread, so I'll just ask:
What are some good 22 or 23mm mech mods (under $70, so either shockingly cheap authentics or clones) that match up well with yr GTs? Seems most of the current, popular 18350-18650 mods are 21mm. I've got a few different Caravela clones, a side-firing EA clone, good old Chi-You, Poldiac (which works great after some work on the button), etc. And I had a new Hammer clone until I shorted it and collapsed the flimsy spring. Go me.
Stainless steel with brass or copper contacts would be nice, but anything that is safe from ridiculous voltage drop is fine. Photos would be nice too. I realize this IS more of a mod question, but since I want something to pair specifically with a Taifun GT, I thought it would be kosher to ask here. If not, apologies.
Hiya zipflint, I'm in Greer about 5 miles from you. Small world, huh? Have you thought of putting a set of magnets in place of your spring in the Hammer clone? I just won a Panzer Golden Army by MCV Phillipines and mic'd the top (which is slightly larger than the tube(s). It's 25.58mm (not sure about the other Panzers), has a floating solid copper 510 pin and copper negative contact (virtually no voltage drop according to my DMM). There's surely clones of this beast that measure out the same and have quality connections (also sold in an upgrade kit for them). Here's a pic showing the wide topcap I'm talking about.
It's conductive alright. You just have to oxidize your SS mash very carefully:
Here is high ohm Provari build
AMD, I've used that pic in your AVI several times in contest threads....LOVE IT!!
I'm assuming you added the Top Fill Holes seen here on you TGT (nice!). I was contemplating doing the same thing but worried about flooding, gurgling (increased juice pressure/weight?) or starving (is air space for vacuum necessary?) Did adding them affect performance or function at all?Thanks
Last edited:
Actually yeah, I'm scrounging magnets today to replace the dead spring for my Hammer clone. I should have a few that might fit. And big-ups on the Panzer recommendation! I've got a copper clone from FT on the way. Should be here in a few weeks. I don't think it's a 1:1, but it should work alright, even if I have to do some futzing to get it up to snuff. And yeah, it IS a small world!
Been to the Carolina Vapor Mill? It's just below Spartanburg Regional. Kinda new. GREAT place though; wide selection, good pricing on devices and e-liquids, and REALLY good customer service! Don't know when I'll be out and about though, recovering from gallbladder and hernia repair surgery from Wednesday. Yep, OUCH.
Right on! Maybe we'll run into each other at a B&M around here sometime!
Oh crap! Sorry to hear about that! If you get in a bind and need something, holler....I'm just up the road and would gladly bring you some juice, Kanthal, cotton, chicken soup....
I haven't been to Carolina Vapor Mill yet. Heard good things about them. Hub City is another one that a dude I met told me was really good in Spart. I've dealt some with Vapor Realm on Greer and Smoke-n-Brew in G'ville. Haven't braved woodruff Rd to go to that new one there yet.
AMD, I've used that pic in your AVI several times in contest threads....LOVE IT!!
Thanks
I experienced no such problems. I drilled one, used it for a month and then drilled the other one as well as my Foggers:
Sorry, I'm not familiar with any other ways to make a threaded hole, other then drilling and tapping.
I think he meant what do you do besides just drilling the hole, which is to "tap it" to give it threads..... looks like Bill beat me (thanks Bill). Also countersink the hole (entry point) if the metal is thick enough, to allow the screw head to sink into the metal to give a flush look. See AMD, there actually a lot more to it than just drilling the hole.
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
