Tensioned Micro Coils. The next step.

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MacTechVpr

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MacTechVpr

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I am so sick of nannies.

Especially unelected professional corporate activists who chair drafting committees for our laws and go unsupervised by process, our legislators or the "so-called" press. This manner of enacting law has become all too commonplace.

Good luck. :)
 

MacTechVpr

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Lifted from the thread Okay to use regular cotton? | Page 5 | Post #99 on wicking and a little history lesson for our mutual edification…

I heard they used to be made of fiberglass,…
Oh, you mean like silica?

(Which was mostly being used before strain and the microcoil.)

What matters is that you get the vape you like. Cotton balls, Drug Store cotton, Koh Gen Do, Egyptian Cotton, Mesh, Rayon, or whatever is best for your taste is fine. They all work.

I still have remnants of all it in my vape stash cabinet. If necessary, I'l twist up some cotton if I run out of Rayon.

And had the convo with sXd gone the other way as we were debating best wicking for tensioned micro's just before he introduced KGD (I favored popularizing Jeremy's ceramic for flavor, ease of insertion and fit, he exclusively used straight VG at the time)…

Well, you might most of you be using ReadyXwick (I relented after a couple'a three calls as he was kind enough to touch base with me before shooting his KGD video recommending it on the t.m.c.).

Shortly after a certain VIVA paper towel proponent famous for a copycat thread introduced a hybrid synth/org alternative deprecating forever our beloved pharmacy bought common cotton balls.

True this, 'sall good.

Good luck. :)
 

MacTechVpr

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Just call me Chain-a-Lot. I DIY 'em all day like a bot.
I'm a jester and a tester, genuine Kanthal micro strainer.
Building builders that's my biz, and at that some call me wiz.
I'd show ya how to do one better, strain'll def wind 'em wetter.
Mix you up my anon brew, treat yourself, dazzle your crew.
If you're cruisin' on my beach, a rippin' vape's within your reach.
So holler at me, any channel…getcha strain-wound, tight'n parallel.
Don't go dopey, dry and listless. We'll be sure to Merry Christmas.

Good luck all. :)

 
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MacTechVpr

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Hi I’ve been looking online but can’t seem to a build for building a coil to use at around 70 watts. I have 24 kanthel A1 wire and I’m using the geekvape Zeus dual RTA. Currently my resistance for the coil is at .28 but I don’t think it’s best for vaping at high wattages, any suggestions would help as I started building yesterday, thanks.

First, happy holidays Kr. Pulled you over to this thread I follow in case you need help. Here's what I run on comp mech's and VW interchangeably…

24x2P 8/7 Ø2.8mm=.1812Ω 23.2A | 97.4W

You're going to need to learn to build a standard single tensioned micro and oxidize it successfully to get the above result. I can help with techniques to produce the parallels manually or on a drill.

Tensioned parallels have a much lower cross-section to mass compared to heavy straight wire or multi-wire high-mass winds which draw a lot of power. TMC's have a greater wetted contact area to mass than the preceding. So you get a great deal of actual vapor (rather than diffusion of what is vaporized) for the power input. The 90W above on a mech at 4.2V will vape like 70W apparent with much higher density. On a var you'll use half the power or less for the same result. Bottom line, a lot of vape for volts. Big clouds and oodles of flavor for any setup you put this on.

This build best accommodates Nextel ceramic braiding (ReadyXwick, 3mm) but you can push this out beyond the 7.64in to 3.2mm with 23AWG for greater flow, or more!

Once you build a strained coil you'll have a precise repeatable standard to gauge the best production from your setup. It's a great benchmark. Nudge me here for assist if you have difficulty finding instructions here on this thread.

Best of luck to you and yours this holiday season. :)

 

MacTechVpr

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Lifted from the thread…Vaping isn't exciting anymore | Page 5 | Post #97 for reference…

It's not the vape that excites us; it's the context. I wrote…

…It's nice, especially this time of year, to not be banished to the outdoors for 5-7 minute intervals.

…and not to be treated like a criminal. Yes, freedom.

Addiction, like prejudice and slavery is something we are subjected to.



The opposite of addiction is connection. What we had and which has been horribly suppressed.

Resist dehumanization. Encourage community with our own and all around you.

Good luck and Merry Christmas all. :)
 

MacTechVpr

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Pulled from the thread E-liquid in mouth | Page 3 | Post #49 for info on draw and results…

Hi Mac! :)

When I want a tighter draw from my Subtank mini I use Aspire BVC coils.

That said, I prefer loose MTL (restricted DTL) vaping nowadays. I was very happy when Kanger introduced Aerotanks and Emows with adjustable AFC and retired my Protanks immediately. But this Protank 5 that comes with OP's kit does look airy in the videos I watched. Have you tried it?

My vaping style is quite varied and across the board. MTL, DL and mixed draw of both depending on juice flavor pref's and attributes of the device I may use one or all of these techniques. If I've built adequately for the widest potential of the mod I can use it for all. The clincher for me was committing to fully wide bore DT's and learning how to use air flow suppression (slipstream) to deter or prolong vaporization (decrease or increase inlet air speed).

Sometimes this req's closing down some airflow but often enough this works. So I can be using a ST base glass or stock and pull clouds from it if I want to. Unless I've built for very high density at low power then I'm stuck with using the tighter draw. Can MTL chain off a comp mod if I have to or in the mood. Just have to watch for over-saturation and take a good pull from time to time. Not a good practice tho as such short pulls tend to crud up things even when careful at any power level. Under-vaporization is our nemesis.

Very rarely change device airflow. Usually it's matched carefully to the requirements of the build, set-and-forget. From there it's either constraining DT draw flow and length of draw. Temp generally very constant with this approach. Note here, a coil requires more air as it gets warmer in the fire cycle to ensure adequate vaporization. If you stifle the AF you will crud up as the coil gets warmer than necessary for the juice flow. Those of you who never test your device's output limits will never know where that threshold lives or understand why you run dirty. We all have our preferences but your setup has its own.

All said, you can use a varied draw technique to reap the most out of the setup you want by playing with restriction and draw vacuum. It starts to more resemble using a musical instrument. And girl I like those flavor notes.

Good luck. :)
 

MacTechVpr

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For info from the thread More and More Restrictions are Put on E-cigarettes: See What Happened!

In China, Hong Kong will ban sales, manufacture, importation, distribution, or promotion of vapor products and heat-not-burn (HNB) tobacco products according to the South China Morning Post. A conviction for any of these crimes could result in up to six months in jail and a fine of 50,000 Hong Kong dollars (about $6,370 U.S.).

Sparse news on this here in US. A China ecig takedown would mark the end of real vaping for us. Nothing left but state sanctioned tobacco mega corp offerings. We're already well on the way to being acclimated to the one-vape-fits-all and liking it…all the while vilified for corrupting the kids. Back to being criminals all.

Guess RoC finally figured out vapers spend less than smokers. And they need their tobacco industry. Took 'em a while. Wonder how much US influence was in play. But the autocrats there are just as determined to roll back the liberties of HK citizens as our's are here at home. It's more saddening by the day to live on this planet.

First they came for the vapers…

Good luck. :) (as I've been saying)
 
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MacTechVpr

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I tried to do a parallel coil the other day... I failed.

Skeeb, everything is easy with the right tools and method. In the above case, a paper clip loop in a pin vise to float the closed end…and a pin vise and drill bit to trap the open ends. The looped end is adjusted to parity for length and strain applied during the wind to ensure taught parallel tensioned forming on the bit as it's hand rotated. The amount of strain varies by gauge. Unlike standard parallels they don't tend to distort from heat expansion (or more easily, in installation). Learning to twist leads, which reinforces the geometry and helps ensure tock solid termination, takes a little practice to achieve a consistent twisted pitch.
The result…bliss.

Good you tried. It's a powerful wind to have your kit. LMK if I can help.

Good luck. :)

 
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Skeeb, everything is easy with the right tools and method. In the above case, a paper clip loop in a pin vise to float the closed end…and a pin vise and drill bit to trap the open ends. The looped end is adjusted to parity for length and strain applied during the wind to ensure taught parallel tensioned forming on the bit as it's hand rotated. The amount of strain varies by gauge. Unlike standard parallels they don't tend to distort from heat expansion (or more easily, in installation). Learning to twist leads, which reinforces the geometry and helps ensure tock solid termination, takes a little practice to achieve a consistent twisted pitch.
The result…bliss.

Good luck. :)


Thanks for this! Question, are there two different wires used, or is it the same wire doubled up? When I did it I used Clapton wire with 24 gauge wire, so I was using two different wires when I tried it.
 

MacTechVpr

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Thanks for this! Question, are there two different wires used, or is it the same wire doubled up? When I did it I used Clapton wire with 24 gauge wire, so I was using two different wires when I tried it.

It's the same length of wire looped through the paper clip then trapped in the pin vise, a screw driver like with a chuck. That's it! No big deal. Results, well the pics do tell a lot of the tale. Uniformity, in literally minutes.

It's helpful, actually necessary you learn how to wind and oxidize a single t.m.c. The main reason to wind them at all is to electrically pulse fire and oxidize them. This totally changes the performance of the wire (at the expense of a bit of the rigidity you built in by tension winding). End result is that it gets you a lot closer to the "actual" rated resistance of the wire than merely forming (bending). Coils don't uniformly oxidize when just coiled. Micro gaps remain which deter it.

Good luck. :)
 
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bombastinator

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I am so sick of nannies.
I had a nanny for a while when I was a little kid. She hated us children and was fairly abusive. I was absolutely terrified of her. Looking back on it it was still probably less bad than no supervision at all. The problem I think is that while people too often do not behave responsibly unless forced to, Corporations by the definition of their structure literally CANNOT behave responsibly unless forced to. It’s not the nanny state, it’s the nannying the wrong group state.
 
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Don29palms

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I had a nanny for a while when I was a little kid. She hated us children and was fairly abusive. I was absolutely terrified of her. Looking back on it it was still probably less bad than no supervision at all. The problem I think is that while people too often do not behave responsibly unless forced to, Corporations by the definition of their structure literally CANNOT behave responsibly unless forced to. It’s not the nanny state, it’s the nannying the wrong group state.
A simple solution is to quit voting for democrats.
 

bombastinator

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A simple solution is to quit voting for democrats.
Nope. Neither extreme works. If you quit voting for one party entirely all you get is nannies with cudgels. A leftist or rightist for that matter would also argue an extremely high chance of slavery as well. Chattel slavery in the case of a right wing victory and the more North Korean sort in the case of the left. Me I don’t want ANY thankyouverymuch.
 
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bombastinator

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Skeeb, everything is easy with the right tools and method. In the above case, a paper clip loop in a pin vise to float the closed end…and a pin vise and drill bit to trap the open ends. The looped end is adjusted to parity for length and strain applied during the wind to ensure taught parallel tensioned forming on the bit as it's hand rotated. The amount of strain varies by gauge. Unlike standard parallels they don't tend to distort from heat expansion (or more easily, in installation). Learning to twist leads, which reinforces the geometry and helps ensure tock solid termination, takes a little practice to achieve a consistent twisted pitch.
The result…bliss.

Good you tried. It's a powerful wind to have your kit. LMK if I can help.

Good luck. :)


Those look like some really long coils. I ran into burning problems when I made mine too long. What I’ve been looking at now is really large diameters (5mm) which shortens the coil while increasing juice flow. It’s got other issues though. Big coils are fragile and prone to hot spots. I’m wondering if your stuff here may have some solutions in that direction
 
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MacTechVpr

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I had a nanny for a while when I was a little kid. She hated us children and was fairly abusive. I was absolutely terrified of her. Looking back on it it was still probably less bad than no supervision at all. The problem I think is that while people too often do not behave responsibly unless forced to, Corporations by the definition of their structure literally CANNOT behave responsibly unless forced to. It’s not the nanny state, it’s the nannying the wrong group state.

You would be right. It's all institution of man.
Power corrupts absolutely.
And there are no angels to govern us.

(Well except perhaps for my nanny. They broke the mold there.)

And now for our mutual amusement, back to the regularly scheduled program.

Good luck. :)
 

bombastinator

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You would be right. It's all institution of man.
Power corrupts absolutely.
And there are no angels to govern us.

(Well except perhaps for my nanny. They broke the mold there.)

And now for our mutual amusement, back to the regularly scheduled program.

Good luck. :)
Thank you. I’d really rather just talk about vaping too. Political stuff keeps crawling in though. It’s the world we live in.
 
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MacTechVpr

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Posted elsewhere and for information here…

It's not that Kanthal has a particularly lower resistance. It's forte is that it is significantly stable in resistance; and, particularly so with the methods I introduced here on VU and on the e-cigarette-forum.

A search on my username and the terms tension(ed), strain, pin vise here should get you started.

Strain is about subtly forcing an internal reordering of the structure of the wire as the wind is shaped…as opposed to "bending" or the application of external force to "form" the wind.

Tensioned coils behave like a spring with embedded rigidity which lends to their durability. Pulsing them in this more precise state further reinforces the orientation at a slight loss of rigidity but accelerating oxidation which makes them a more effective circuit as a contact coil by insulating touching turns from each other electrically. Done right they don't fire "inside out"; rather, more uniformly end-to-end. This optimizes the thermal output of the turns (the working part of the element) restricting thermal loss by any segment of the wind from overheating. The objective being to put as much and consistent heat on every part of the wetted surface of the wire to produce a consistent output as close as possible to the spec wire resistance.

Predictable, repeatable performance.

Good luck J. :)

 
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