Tensioned Micro Coils. The next step.

[Bill's Magic Vapor]

I posted this information about the coiler I use last summer. Seems like a little revival here about different coiler options, so I just wanted to throw this out, in case anyone is interested. There are certainly a lot more options today. I do like both the side tension and drag on the reel in conjunction with the coiler. Produces great tensioned micro coils super quick. I will add additional drag to the reel sometimes with gentle finger pressure on the reel. I can get it to any level of tension I like this way. Like Supe, I don't make coils for fun, but because I need to for vaping. This is much easier than doing it by hand, for me.

Here's the Coiler Pics:



That last picture (lower right) is where this all started. It's come a ways. Has a ways to go. We shall see where this leads.

Some Combo shots of the coil at the Mandrel/Chuck. Notice the leg catcher with the spring. This feature makes it very quick to wrap the coil. The alternative is usually to get the wire into the chuck jaws and tighten. I have found this difficult and time-consuming. I want my coils right now, right?



Upper Left: Wide shot of the mandrel at the post and chuck connections.
Upper Right: Shot of the spring-loaded leg catcher on the 1/16" drill stop collar.
Lower Left: Close up of the coil while winding. The first two, or three, coils are generally removed.
Lower Right: The Coil just cut from the Spooler. Causes the loss of a half wrap.

Here's the reason the coiler is so important to our wraps. Even though the coils in the first picture below are "touching," you can see that the pitch is different on the first four or five coils, than on the last four or five coils. For this reason, the coil has to be overwrapped, and then the first two, plus an additional four or five coils are removed with the pliers at 90 degrees to the coil and literally pulled off the coil, leaving the very tight coil like you see in the last picture below.



Upper Left: Close up of coil after removal from both the leg-catcher and the spooler.
Upper Right: Another close-up of a different coil.
Lower Left: Notice the pitch change at the far right.
Lower Right: Close-up of the pitch change. Concerning...

Notice that the pitch of the coil changes as we remove the coils (Lower Right in picture above), presumably for the purpose of improving the wrap. So, I decided to try to improve the tension from the side and added another spring-loaded drill stop:



Upper Left: Tension added from the side at the wrap.
Upper Right: Coils are not only touching, but being literally squeezed together at the wrap.
Lower Left: Remove Spooler tension and remove coils while still under side tension.
Lower Right: Finished coil.

Ok, that turned out to be a pretty good ten coil wrap. Tensioned through drag from the reel spooler and from the side with a spring loaded drill stop, then unwrapped while under side tension. Needless to say, this coil does not need to be additionally "formed" through the use of a torch.

However, as we examine the photos at super close-up, we do see a lot of imperfections on the surface of the wire. These imperfections will be very detrimental to our metallic oxide layer formation when we pulse the coil. Ideally, by pulsing the coil, we can add up to three layers of alumina (the metallic oxide that forms on kanthal after heating). This alumina layer is critical for us to achieve what SuperX calls the "Effect." The effect will be discussed in another blog (someday). For now, our work with this coiler is almost done. I would like to add an adjustable guide pulley from the spooler to the mandreal. Right now I do that function by hand, but it doesn't need to be that way. I would like to automate as much of the process as possible, so that when I do find my perfect coil, I can repeat it.

Thank you State O'Flux for naming the coiler. Ok, the BMV Coiler 2.0 Parts List:

ParaWire Cobra Coiler: Cobra Coiler | ParaWire
1/16" Stainless Steel Mandrel: Aura Visual Concepts, Inc.. Almost Indestructible Mandrels
Fuller 1/16" Drill Stop Collar: 1/16 DRILL STOP - Jigs - Amazon.com
Misc. 8/32 x 1/2" Machine screw, spring, L metal and washer
Crystal River Cahill Fly Reel: Amazon.Amazon.com : Crystal River Cahill Cahill Rim Fly Reel : Fishing Reels : Sports & Outdoors
Mounts for Fly Reel: http://www.walmart.com/ip/24775805?www=true&productRedirect=true

So, materials cost is about $75.00, plus shipping. Additional reels for different wire gauges are extra. I have two for 28 and 29 gauge. Also, a piece of scrap wood or whatever to mount the jig. Anyway, that's the story. Good luck!

 

[sedge]

I still love my BMV Coiling Machine. I've tried the Gizmo, pin vises, Kuro and other jigs and nothing beats the BMV.

I aquired mandrels in 0.2 increments from 1.6mm to 3.0mm.

I found extra reel spools so I could quickly have different wire gauges.

 

[MacTechVpr]

Transposed from post Tweaking tensioned micro's during oxidation… for reference...

MacTechVpr, I'm getting about 24hrs heavy use from a coil/wick in the rba. Not burning the wick....when it works, it's excellent. It's gunking up as seen in the pic, then loses flavour... tastes near burnt.

How to stop the gunking up? Between 14-18w usually. Max vg. 3mg It's my adv, not interested in changing juice. Is there any adjustment I could make to make it last longer? If not, then that's cool...it's a fantastic 24 hrs of use. lol. I end up cleaning the coils for re-use and rewick.

Thanks for the post bro. Appreciate the pic. Best advice I could give as you install and oxidize the coil…

° Try to keep the coil on the bit it was wound;

° Rake or very gently run a light screwdriver or pin across the coils;

(This spreads the coil slightly and if not in good contact due to spreading may help spring them back into a better tighter geometry. Sometimes they get skewed or spread as tension is passed on into the wind as we pull on the leads during installation.)

° Use very gradual short rather than longer pulses starting with lower then moderate voltage;

(Oxidation is a process and will possibly be compromised or not happen at all completely if too hot too fast.)

° Induce a slight lighting from the center and proceed slowly until you see a uniform color at the surface end-to-end;

(You do not need to do dry fires until it's white hot. Usually you can step pulse to a uniform red color that fires identically every time and that's enough. Fire once only lighting to yellow thereafter and you're done. That's to ensure you don't have a hot spot anywhere.

If at any point the coil disfigures or changes color just toss it. You'll spend far less time getting it right with a coil that's intact.

However, I strongly recommend a ceramic tweezers. These are useful for correcting smaller cooler (dark) spots that may be visible. These imperfections may be inherent to the wire or induced by small changes in tension applied during the wire. Same thing applies if they don't immediately resolve with a very light squeeze and pulse, just ditch it. You'll be happier.

Now, in practical terms we don't always have the luxury of that kind of time. If your coil is almost perfect and you've got a gap you can kill with a regular tweezer after the fire. Try hitting it. It's you're vape. Maybe the juice you want will let you get away with it.

Unresolved imperfections are like the loose connection. They will make the vape hot, lower actual vaporization, increase dry diffusion. In general just make for a bad vape.

This is what a proper electrical wind cures. Make a few coils. Toss those that don't cut the mustard. Keep your standards high.

It's your vaping enjoyment after all.

Good luck all.

 

[Cucco]

I posted this information about the coiler I use last summer. Seems like a little revival here about different coiler options, so I just wanted to throw this out, in case anyone is interested. There are certainly a lot more options today. I do like both the side tension and drag on the reel in conjunction with the coiler. Produces great tensioned micro coils super quick. I will add additional drag to the reel sometimes with gentle finger pressure on the reel. I can get it to any level of tension I like this way. Like Supe, I don't make coils for fun, but because I need to for vaping. This is much easier than doing it by hand, for me.

Here's the Coiler Pics:

View attachment 412577View attachment 412578

That last picture (lower right) is where this all started. It's come a ways. Has a ways to go. We shall see where this leads.

Some Combo shots of the coil at the Mandrel/Chuck. Notice the leg catcher with the spring. This feature makes it very quick to wrap the coil. The alternative is usually to get the wire into the chuck jaws and tighten. I have found this difficult and time-consuming. I want my coils right now, right?

View attachment 412579

Upper Left: Wide shot of the mandrel at the post and chuck connections.
Upper Right: Shot of the spring-loaded leg catcher on the 1/16" drill stop collar.
Lower Left: Close up of the coil while winding. The first two, or three, coils are generally removed.
Lower Right: The Coil just cut from the Spooler. Causes the loss of a half wrap.

Here's the reason the coiler is so important to our wraps. Even though the coils in the first picture below are "touching," you can see that the pitch is different on the first four or five coils, than on the last four or five coils. For this reason, the coil has to be overwrapped, and then the first two, plus an additional four or five coils are removed with the pliers at 90 degrees to the coil and literally pulled off the coil, leaving the very tight coil like you see in the last picture below.

View attachment 412580

Upper Left: Close up of coil after removal from both the leg-catcher and the spooler.
Upper Right: Another close-up of a different coil.
Lower Left: Notice the pitch change at the far right.
Lower Right: Close-up of the pitch change. Concerning...

Notice that the pitch of the coil changes as we remove the coils (Lower Right in picture above), presumably for the purpose of improving the wrap. So, I decided to try to improve the tension from the side and added another spring-loaded drill stop:

View attachment 412581

Upper Left: Tension added from the side at the wrap.
Upper Right: Coils are not only touching, but being literally squeezed together at the wrap.
Lower Left: Remove Spooler tension and remove coils while still under side tension.
Lower Right: Finished coil.

Ok, that turned out to be a pretty good ten coil wrap. Tensioned through drag from the reel spooler and from the side with a spring loaded drill stop, then unwrapped while under side tension. Needless to say, this coil does not need to be additionally "formed" through the use of a torch.

However, as we examine the photos at super close-up, we do see a lot of imperfections on the surface of the wire. These imperfections will be very detrimental to our metallic oxide layer formation when we pulse the coil. Ideally, by pulsing the coil, we can add up to three layers of alumina (the metallic oxide that forms on kanthal after heating). This alumina layer is critical for us to achieve what SuperX calls the "Effect." The effect will be discussed in another blog (someday). For now, our work with this coiler is almost done. I would like to add an adjustable guide pulley from the spooler to the mandreal. Right now I do that function by hand, but it doesn't need to be that way. I would like to automate as much of the process as possible, so that when I do find my perfect coil, I can repeat it.

Thank you State O'Flux for naming the coiler. Ok, the BMV Coiler 2.0 Parts List:

ParaWire Cobra Coiler: Cobra Coiler | ParaWire
1/16" Stainless Steel Mandrel: Aura Visual Concepts, Inc.. Almost Indestructible Mandrels
Fuller 1/16" Drill Stop Collar: 1/16 DRILL STOP - Jigs - Amazon.com
Misc. 8/32 x 1/2" Machine screw, spring, L metal and washer
Crystal River Cahill Fly Reel: Amazon.Amazon.com : Crystal River Cahill Cahill Rim Fly Reel : Fishing Reels : Sports & Outdoors
Mounts for Fly Reel: http://www.walmart.com/ip/24775805?www=true&productRedirect=true

So, materials cost is about $75.00, plus shipping. Additional reels for different wire gauges are extra. I have two for 28 and 29 gauge. Also, a piece of scrap wood or whatever to mount the jig. Anyway, that's the story. Good luck!

Cool jig...

When I use the chuck, I don't lose any wraps. I just have one bent leg. Easily bent back. I don't put the wire in the chuck jaws. Just putting it in the crack, works for me. But, who knows, I may not be getting the 'Effect'. You guys are so fun!

I don't want to go with a jig any bigger than I have. She is taking up high-rent real estate... Kitchen counter space.

 

[muzichead]

I use a rod from the AWG that Russ sent me and I just chuck up a rectangular piece of wood in the vice that has a hole drilled in it for the rod to slide through. I do use the thumbscrew, wing nut, and washers to hold the lead wire though. I apply pressure to the wind holding the spool in my other hand as I am winding the coil and use the wood block as a means to keep pressure against. Nothing fancy, but effective though. I am not convinced that exact tension on both coils makes all that much difference in our vaping. I do feel that the tension I get from my 1st to 2nd coil is pretty darn close though... I don't feel the need for heating my wire or squeezing my coils after firing them anymore. I simply build, mount, check Ωage, fire, cue the coils once or twice, wick them, then vape... Rather simple in fact. No hot spots or legs anymore. Just coils that work and vape effectively...

 

[Bill's Magic Vapor]

Cool jig...

When I use the chuck, I don't lose any wraps. I just have one bent leg. Easily bent back. I don't put the wire in the chuck jaws. Just putting it in the crack, works for me. But, who knows, I may not be getting the 'Effect'. You guys are so fun!

I don't want to go with a jig any bigger than I have. She is taking up high-rent real estate... Kitchen counter space.

Right. After I added the side tension piece to the jig, I don't lose a wrap any longer either. That fixed the problem and provided a tighter coil, providing tension from two planes simultaneously with mechanical advantage is hard to duplicate manually, a piece of cake with the coiler. Good luck!

 

[MacTechVpr]

I use a rod from the AWG that Russ sent me and I just chuck up a rectangular piece of wood in the vice that has a hole drilled in it for the rod to slide through. I do use the thumbscrew, wing nut, and washers to hold the lead wire though. I apply pressure to the wind holding the spool in my other hand as I am winding the coil and use the wood block as a means to keep pressure against. Nothing fancy, but effective though. I am not convinced that exact tension on both coils makes all that much difference in our vaping. I do feel that the tension I get from my 1st to 2nd coil is pretty darn close though... I don't feel the need for heating my wire or squeezing my coils after firing them anymore. I simply build, mount, check Ωage, fire, cue the coils once or twice, wick them, then vape... Rather simple in fact. No hot spots or legs anymore. Just coils that work and vape effectively...

That's the ticket muz, consistency. I do a bit more calculated oxidation. But if you're hitting your temperature target consistently and not going overly hot seems you've found your zone. You've got a pulsing strategy that's getting the wind insulated adequately as you describe for your particular wind. I personally try to do as little handling of the delicate little things that I can.

Congrats and good luck.

 

[MacTechVpr]

Right. After I added the side tension piece to the jig, I don't lose a wrap any longer either. That fixed the problem and provided a tighter coil, providing tension from two planes simultaneously with mechanical advantage is hard to duplicate manually, a piece of cake with the coiler. Good luck!

Hey Bill real nice to see you here.

A definite advantage over a hand wind to be able to add bi-lateral compression modestly. You have to exceed that compression however, it's my understanding, to get to the point of inducing strain (longitudinal compression). Lateral compression alone isn't sufficient to get us to the effect. I think most of us achieve that. However, I do think this is a minor obstacle to getting folks to appreciate that difference between strain and forming. Whether a jig or pin vise, if it looks like a microcoil it's enough for those that haven't experienced the result of both. There is a point however where strain begins. That's the target. Once you have the right balance between the forces, it's a smooth and cool vape. And it's that function of strain that we're after.

Can't tell ya how close I am to having to go primary on a jig. I'm tryin' to hang in so I can continue to experience what the user does. Keepin' fingers crossed as long as I can.

Good luck all.

 

[Bill's Magic Vapor]

Hey Bill real nice to see you here.

A definite advantage over a hand wind to be able to add bi-lateral compression modestly. You have to exceed that compression however, it's my understanding, to get to the point of inducing strain (longitudinal compression). Lateral compression alone isn't sufficient to get us to the effect. I think most of us achieve that. However, I do think this is a minor obstacle to getting folks to appreciate that difference between strain and forming. Whether a jig or pin vise, if it looks like a microcoil it's enough for those that haven't experienced the result of both. There is a point however where strain begins. That's the target. Once you have the right balance between the forces, it's a smooth and cool vape. And it's the function of strain that we're after.

Can't tell ya how close I am to having to go primary on a jig. I'm tryin' to hang in so I can continue to experience what the user does. Keepin' fingers crossed as long as I can.

Good luck all.

I know that you believe that these jigs don't produce coils that achieve the effect, but then I know that to be untrue, as they do. Build one and try it. There's more than one way to achieve the Effect, and hand winding is not the only way, my friend.

 

[Katya]

I like it in theory much better than the standard one, trust me. I like the whole more manly look of that handle and chuck - it's beast but for one there's no where to fix the wire like in the standard one. One could fashion a bit with a bend for the hardware but it would need to be perfect so that chucked part aligned with the shaft part or it would be all over the road when the handle was cranked. It's meant for straight rods.

My personal preference is to not chuck the wire and deal with (remove) starter wraps and try to straighten legs.

But Ima say again that it was hard to resist getting it when I saw it but when I thought about it for a while I just found that the lil ol standard deluxe model better suited my needs.

I understand. I like your gizmo (I own one, BTW). But my main problem is the size of the rods provided. Even the 1.5mm one is really not ideal for me. I prefer 1.7-1.8 mm ID coils for my ProTanks and I won't be rebuilding ProTank coils in the future, anyway.

I want to make 1.8-2.5mm ID coils. Any suggestions? Some gizmo users get very creative with their rods--I've seen recommendations to use wire hangers, for instance (.086").

I also would like to have a jig that would make spaced coils. Brandon (from Evolv) recommends spaced coils for all nickel wire builds. Many DNA 40 users wind their coils around machine screws to achieve even spacing. I imagine that I could easily use a screw with a chuck.

I do have to straighten one leg after... But, it's all good.

Yeah. I'm willing to unwrap a few wraps myself--not ideal, but I can live with that. Those nylon flat jaw pliers are very handy, BTW:

 

[MacTechVpr]

I know that you believe that these jigs don't produce coils that achieve the effect, but then I know that to be untrue, as they do. Build one and try it. There's more than one way to achieve the Effect, and hand winding is not the only way, my friend.

Let me correct that for the record…YES! Jigs categorically do achieve adhesion in the vernacular sense for simplicity. This I've described as most proximate contact (not going to get into the particle physics)…and if the wire being wound is under adequate tension you will get the effect regardless of the tool.

Never doubted your assessment Bill.

If so, it's at or about the point of closest contact that the effect begins as per countless direct observations. What it is in Newtons?…Hell if I know Bill. But we both agree, rapid optimal phase transition ensues there regardless of the devise winding in this manner.

So yes, the affect is present if you reach adhesion. Oxidation happens more reliably at adhesion and the effect then is more pronounced, stable and uniform. As soon as you stretch the wire, strain is being inferred. That's all that matters. Enough to get the wire pulling in on itself (little bit of a grey zone there as to how much).

And that's where a difference between jig and pin vise may exist. The learning curve to find that point per device, per wire.

I believe, it's rather simple for most of us to learn that breakpoint using hand tensioning. I've also jig wound many times on stuff I and others have put together and it's been a little bit more common for me to either fall short or over tighten. But that may be as much as it is for hand winding, attributable to lack of practice.

My goal is to see as many as possible try a tensioned wind. In any manner that it works for them. I also encourage owning a pin vise if it's not your primary tool. It's a reliable back up at least and has a multitude of other uses. I believe comparisons with different gauges can also be revealing. I more often get better results with a jig for thicker gauges.

I didn't realize your concern that I disagreed or I would have corrected that long ago. As SupX will confirm we've had some great conversations on this subject and I am highly appreciative of his verification of the principle, as you graciously did Bill, and his support in encouraging tension winding on jigs within the vaping community.

Bravo to you all!

Thanks Bill for mentioning it. We're on the same page.



Good luck.

p.s. Like I said, glad you're here.

 

[Katya]

I posted this information about the coiler I use last summer.

Yes you did. I remember it well. That was the day when I realized that rebuilding was completely beyond my reach and my ability and I went back to stock coils.

So, materials cost is about $75.00, plus shipping. Additional reels for different wire gauges are extra. I have two for 28 and 29 gauge. Also, a piece of scrap wood or whatever to mount the jig. Anyway, that's the story. Good luck!

Right. You do realize that, no matter how gorgeous your setup is, there are maybe three people in the entire world who can (or are willing to) achieve this level of perfection?...

I need vaping to be easy. This is not easy--not for me. I just need a decent vape.

Now, on a serious note. In every instructional video from Svoemesto (and Taifun) that I watched, the presenter just hand wraps a spaced coil around a silica wick, like here:



What's wrong with that build? If anything?

ETA: I understand that the topic of this thread is microcoils and tension and adhesion and the Effect. And I read the OP. I don't want to take this conversation way off topic--so I apologize in advance. Just still curious. I would like to be able to build a single 2mm ID (or so) coil (Kayfun-style), 1.5-1.8Ω, roughly, with 28 or 29 g kanthal.

 

[Katya]

But, who knows, I may not be getting the 'Effect'. You guys are so fun!

They are fun.

I know I'll never achieve the effect. I just want to find an easy way to build a decent coil. Decent is good enough for me.

 

[Katya]

And then there's cigatron's cigamajig. Maybe that's all I need. I just don't know I can make one myself.

I use the Cigamajig. Version 1 is easy to make. See my blog. The V2 (in the pic) takes a little more skill and the ability to tap threads into a few holes but still pretty simple.

These winders are designed to tension wind coils directly from the wire spool. Takes about 20 seconds to wind a coil. View attachment 412218View attachment 412220

 

[turbocad6]

ok, so after seeing all these high tension wrapping setups with reels and winders and discussing the difference of formed vs tension I decided I'd build a simple tension rig to really see if there is a difference for me, only problem is my brain don't do simple

I figured if I'm going to build a fancy jig then it had better make coiling even easier for me than it is now, not much point to building something that's going to wind up taking me even more work to build a coil than it already does. the problem there is that the method I use now is so easy for me that to make it much easier the coil would wind up having to practically build itself, so long story short, what started as a simple tensioning jig has winded up becoming more of a full blown high tension coil making machine

I blame mac and russ for this one, wait till you see this contraption

 

[Aal_]

Turbo I expect nothing less from u than an automated tension coiler that is the size of an 18650 battery

 

[MacTechVpr]

Turbo I expect nothing less from u than an automated tension coiler that is the size of an 18650 battery

Now that I'd like to see!



Good luck.

 

[super_X_drifter]

ok, so after seeing all these high tension wrapping setups with reels and winders and discussing the difference of formed vs tension I decided I'd build a simple tension rig to really see if there is a difference for me, only problem is my brain don't do simple

I figured if I'm going to build a fancy jig then it had better make coiling even easier for me than it is now, not much point to building something that's going to wind up taking me even more work to build a coil than it already does. the problem there is that the method I use now is so easy for me that to make it much easier the coil would wind up having to practically build itself, so long story short, what started as a simple tensioning jig has winded up becoming more of a full blown high tension coil making machine

I blame mac and russ for this one, wait till you see this contraption

Turbo, there should be an unspoken rule between us. Whenever you build something like this just make one for both of us please . Your stuff is off the chain.

 

[Bill's Magic Vapor]

Let me correct that for the record…YES! Jigs categorically do achieve adhesion in the vernacular sense for simplicity. This I've described as most proximate contact (not going to get into the particle physics)…and if the wire being wound is under adequate tension you will get the effect regardless of the tool.

Never doubted your assessment Bill.

If so, it's at or about the point of closest contact that the effect begins as per countless direct observations. What it is in Newtons?…Hell if I know Bill. But we both agree, rapid optimal phase transition ensues there regardless of the devise winding in this manner.

So yes, the affect is present if you reach adhesion. Oxidation happens more reliably at adhesion and the effect then is more pronounced, stable and uniform. As soon as you stretch the wire, strain is being inferred. That's all that matters. Enough to get the wire pulling in on itself (little bit of a grey zone there as to how much).

And that's where a difference between jig and pin vise may exist. The learning curve to find that point per device, per wire.

I believe, it's rather simple for most of us to learn that breakpoint using hand tensioning. I've also jig wound many times on stuff I and others have put together and it's been a little bit more common for me to either fall short or over tighten. But that may be as much as it is for hand winding, attributable to lack of practice.

My goal is to see as many as possible try a tensioned wind. In any manner that it works for them. I also encourage owning a pin vise if it's not your primary tool. It's a reliable back up at least and has a multitude of other uses. I believe comparisons with different gauges can also be revealing. I more often get better results with a jig for thicker gauges.

I didn't realize your concern that I disagreed or I would have corrected that long ago. As SupX will confirm we've had some great conversations on this subject and I am highly appreciative of his verification of the principle, as you graciously did Bill, and his support in encouraging tension winding on jigs within the vaping community.

Bravo to you all!

Thanks Bill for mentioning it. We're on the same page.



Good luck.

p.s. Like I said, glad you're here.


View attachment 412711View attachment 412712View attachment 412713

Ok, Mac, so you agree that we can make optimal coils by hand or by jig. You're right, I didn't get that from your posts, and I appreciate you clarifying that! Jigs can be complex, but don't need to be, necessarily, but they work wonders for those of us whose hand strength, and/or flexibility may be impaired. The whole purpose of my coiler is to make the process easier and quicker, not more difficult, but also to achieve a great vape. In this regard, it excels, imho, for me!

Katya, you are also right that few will make the effort to build a coiler jig as complex as mine, but one doesn't need to do that to achieve great results. The existing $15 coilers on the market do a fine job of making a great coil, and I started with one myself and then it evolved to the coiler you see now. Because I have a wood shop and build a lot of things by hand, the BMV coiler was not a big effort for me, but I understand your point, and agree! I am glad to hear about your rebuilding efforts and hope you enjoy the vape that you get from making your own!

 

[etherealink]

ok, so after seeing all these high tension wrapping setups with reels and winders and discussing the difference of formed vs tension I decided I'd build a simple tension rig to really see if there is a difference for me, only problem is my brain don't do simple

I figured if I'm going to build a fancy jig then it had better make coiling even easier for me than it is now, not much point to building something that's going to wind up taking me even more work to build a coil than it already does. the problem there is that the method I use now is so easy for me that to make it much easier the coil would wind up having to practically build itself, so long story short, what started as a simple tensioning jig has winded up becoming more of a full blown high tension coil making machine

I blame mac and russ for this one, wait till you see this contraption [emoji23]

Oddly enough I'm working on the same thing, modifying a fishing reel to start...