Terminator RA Tank
- Thread starter SheerLuckHolmes
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- provari vamo vapor pro virgin vapor
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Strangely enough, it did suffer a fall; and I don't remember it being crooked prior to the fall.
I ended up putting it on an old pv and carefully bent it back straight. Now all is well. Thanks.
please guys i need some help with mine. Whatever setup I use, i always get a short circuit and I get Lo on my provari and terminator is not working, i have spend more than 2 meters of wires and silica but nothing seems to work. I am an owner of the original ody too and i know my way around. Any thoughts please?
Try mounting just the base with the ceramic housing assembly installed but no wick and coil. If still shorted look to where the positive post passes through the bottom of the ceramic housing, that is the most likely spot to have a short. Another place might be the positive wire running down the ceramic channel touching the base,locking ring or mouth piece.
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Well assuming you already know how to connect the +NR wire, could you be missing one of the 2 o-rings on the bottom +post? Also make sure the wire twist next to the coil is not sticking out and hitting anything like the mouthpiece. Center the positive pin and make sure it's sticking out enough to meet your mods +pin before the neg threads could. Hmm, that's about all I can think of right now.
Edit- Ninja'd
Edit- Ninja'd
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I did just what you proposed and it keeps shorting just with the ceramic and the housing assembly. I dont know how to proceed and short it out though...
The area where the positive post passes through the ceramic housing is the most likely place of a short from your description. Note the o-ring that the screw driver is pointing to is in the proper place.
Also note that the screw driver is the proper size for the slot in the nut.
In the second picture I have used a Tobeco base with a Terminator repairable part (the positive post is actually bent) and is touching the negative part of the 510 connection, this would be another possible cause.(the bent post is factory defect)
And then we get to the mod's 510 connection, is there any possibility that the grommet in the mod's 510 is damaged and shorting there? Any similar problems with other atomizers?
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Dude, right on! I cannot show it on picture but the center post is slightly of and not centered and thats what causes the short. I fiddled with it a bit and sometimes it works sometimes not, so I am guessing its factory defect and will contact the seller asap.
I really thank you!
I really thank you!
Hey everyone,
I know this has been said many times. I am just following up on leaking gurgling issues i'm having with the terminator-c. At first I was having a major leak issue which would manifest immediately upon putting juice in. Although I have the ithaka and ody2 I wasnt skilled enough apparently to stop this unit from leaking. After reading many of the posts here and elsewhere I started coming up with stuff that helped. Namely i stopped using the locking ring for the negative connection and instead just wrapped the wick.
It still leaking but nothing major. Everything is lined up well, center post etc. However this device just seems ... kinda loosely threaded to me. Now if i shut off the juice control i can start getting dry hits after just a few drags at 10w but i can only open the valve 1/4 turn and still eventually it will leak. this is using 2.5 wick.
I contacted stormys about this problem and will be sending in the ceramic housing and locking nut to see if its just too loose. Just wanted to ask if I was by chance missing something.
I have tried or paid attention too:
Threading
Juice control down when filling
o-ring placement condition and utilization.. (thinking of adding another 0 ring to the bottom however)
oh and my mouth piece is actually pretty straight and looks good against top o ring when not using the locking nut for negative wire
Thanks,
I know this has been said many times. I am just following up on leaking gurgling issues i'm having with the terminator-c. At first I was having a major leak issue which would manifest immediately upon putting juice in. Although I have the ithaka and ody2 I wasnt skilled enough apparently to stop this unit from leaking. After reading many of the posts here and elsewhere I started coming up with stuff that helped. Namely i stopped using the locking ring for the negative connection and instead just wrapped the wick.
It still leaking but nothing major. Everything is lined up well, center post etc. However this device just seems ... kinda loosely threaded to me. Now if i shut off the juice control i can start getting dry hits after just a few drags at 10w but i can only open the valve 1/4 turn and still eventually it will leak. this is using 2.5 wick.
I contacted stormys about this problem and will be sending in the ceramic housing and locking nut to see if its just too loose. Just wanted to ask if I was by chance missing something.
I have tried or paid attention too:
Threading
Juice control down when filling
o-ring placement condition and utilization.. (thinking of adding another 0 ring to the bottom however)
oh and my mouth piece is actually pretty straight and looks good against top o ring when not using the locking nut for negative wire
Thanks,
Troy- one other thing, I have never gotten mine to not leak without using 3mm silica. Try this..
I will give it a shot (only using 3mm). It has gotten a lot better with 2.5mm since not utilizing the locking ring for the ground. Thanks
Just an update here. So i added another o-ring to the bottom and used 3mm wick without trimming a strand off for the channel part and I can see this is going to work out eventually. I'm not bashing the product at all... dont get me wrong. I just want to say that you almost have to treat this device like it has a passive feed on even when closed (even though it doesn't actually have that). I do get dry hits if fully closed but you only open this thing a tiny bit to get your juice. My ithaka with passive off i can open 4 turns or 2 it doesn't really matter but with the terminator-c its 1/4 turn. Of course the ithaka is using two 3.5mm wicks.
I hope I dont get flamed for saying what i'm about to say but here goes anyway. The reason I keep messing with this Terminator is so far, and i'm not sure why but i'm getting the best flavor from it than i have from any of my other devices. I just wish it had air control
Just an update here. So i added another o-ring to the bottom and used 3mm wick without trimming a strand off for the channel part and I can see this is going to work out eventually. I'm not bashing the product at all... dont get me wrong. I just want to say that you almost have to treat this device like it has a passive feed on even when closed (even though it doesn't actually have that). I do get dry hits if fully closed but you only open this thing a tiny bit to get your juice. My ithaka with passive off i can open 4 turns or 2 it doesn't really matter but with the terminator-c its 1/4 turn. Of course the ithaka is using two 3.5mm wicks.
I hope I dont get flamed for saying what i'm about to say but here goes anyway. The reason I keep messing with this Terminator is so far, and i'm not sure why but i'm getting the best flavor from it than i have from any of my other devices. I just wish it had air control
Try it with a Tank Airflow Controller.
Hey Everyone,
So I just went ahead and purchased the Term-C RA with some 3mm silica wick and silver NR wire. I've been on the RSST for a while now as it was my first genesis RBA. Although it started off rough for me, after some help and tinkering I got it down to vape pretty nicely (although it is a pretty intense vape, probably due to the fact that I might need to drop down on the nic level since before RBA's I was on an Ego twist) In any case I had a question regarding the what kanthal resistance wire I should use on the Term-c. Now I've been building my RSST with 400 SS and 28g kanthal and it's been working perfectly. Can I use 28g kanthal on the Term? Does it even make a difference? Any comments/suggestions are welcome. Thanks!
So I just went ahead and purchased the Term-C RA with some 3mm silica wick and silver NR wire. I've been on the RSST for a while now as it was my first genesis RBA. Although it started off rough for me, after some help and tinkering I got it down to vape pretty nicely (although it is a pretty intense vape, probably due to the fact that I might need to drop down on the nic level since before RBA's I was on an Ego twist) In any case I had a question regarding the what kanthal resistance wire I should use on the Term-c. Now I've been building my RSST with 400 SS and 28g kanthal and it's been working perfectly. Can I use 28g kanthal on the Term? Does it even make a difference? Any comments/suggestions are welcome. Thanks!
The Term C has a longer mouthpiece, so in order to be the same as a Term large, you need the short mouthpiece. Also you can use the clear tank on the Term Large.
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.
Recieved Terminator C v2, last week. Took me a few days to unbox, running ontop of a mkb-ts + stealth cap. 2.5 ohm coil & this device is a beast!!! Will be recoiling once this tank is empty, guess another day. Going 1-1.2 ohm, this is my daily combo now. Thank you Stormy's for great service & awesome vape gear.
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