The same poltergiest that got your TERM C part got my top cap friday night. Searched till the wee hrs. of sat. morning,called Stormy and ordered another one she shipped it before noon and the poltergiest gave it back one hr. after she shipped it. You just cant beat stormy for customer service,or getting a poltergiest mind right.
Terminator RA Tank
- Thread starter SheerLuckHolmes
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
-
- Tags
- provari vamo vapor pro virgin vapor
- Status
Stormy's vape cellar is top-notch! I had a defective part on my Term-C and she had a replacement in my hands within a few days. This is one customer that appreciates an honest, no nonsense seller and will buy there whenever possible!
Last edited:
Ok I'm about to loose my mind here!
My Son wanted a Terminator so I brought on with me and spent way too much time messing with it last night.
Someone tell me why it would leak out the bottom? I checked and rechecked, wrapped and re wrapped, filled and refilled about 20 times. I can't figure it out. Thought I'd turn to the experts!
Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2
My Son wanted a Terminator so I brought on with me and spent way too much time messing with it last night.
Someone tell me why it would leak out the bottom? I checked and rechecked, wrapped and re wrapped, filled and refilled about 20 times. I can't figure it out. Thought I'd turn to the experts!
Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2
Binding the negative NR wire under the ring causes the bottom o-ring to mis-align and leak.
Instead of pinning it under that nut/ring, wrap that wire around the wick so it makes contact with the base. Make sure it doesn't extend so far that it can touch the positive pin below the ceramic.
Have a look at this video and you'll understand: It's in German, but see it at 7 min 40 second mark. It'll make sense
Navy_Lifeguard - Nautilus
Alternatively (and not as easy): Instead of just pinning the NR negative under the nut/ring, wrap it all the way around, using it like a washer of sorts. That way it's not as likely to shift to one side or the other.
Also: make sure that the wick is cut a even with the nut that holds the NR wire so it is certain not to interfere with the o-ring sealing at the bottom.
Instead of pinning it under that nut/ring, wrap that wire around the wick so it makes contact with the base. Make sure it doesn't extend so far that it can touch the positive pin below the ceramic.
Have a look at this video and you'll understand: It's in German, but see it at 7 min 40 second mark. It'll make sense
Navy_Lifeguard - Nautilus
Alternatively (and not as easy): Instead of just pinning the NR negative under the nut/ring, wrap it all the way around, using it like a washer of sorts. That way it's not as likely to shift to one side or the other.
Also: make sure that the wick is cut a even with the nut that holds the NR wire so it is certain not to interfere with the o-ring sealing at the bottom.
Last edited:
Thanks! I'll try that, makes sense to me.
Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2
Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2
Anytime I have a flooding problem I can say it almost always one of the two top o-rings and I will say it's much more likely to be the one that seals around the mouth piece.
If no air can leak in. no liquid can leak out, of coarse there is a pressure difference created when you toke on it and that's how it works. I'm talking about leaking/gurgling down through the ceramic.
Also check to see that the mouth piece is centered in the tank top.
You are lubing the o-rings with Vaseline, right?
If no air can leak in. no liquid can leak out, of coarse there is a pressure difference created when you toke on it and that's how it works. I'm talking about leaking/gurgling down through the ceramic.
Also check to see that the mouth piece is centered in the tank top.
You are lubing the o-rings with Vaseline, right?
Last edited:
I lube generally with VG with no leaking issues with either of my Terms. It may seal easier with Vaseline, but I've had no problems as of yet However, I tend to take one or the other apart every 2 days or so to tinker/test new wicks/ideas...
However, I tend to take one or the other apart every 2 days or so to tinker/test new wicks/ideas...
Last edited:
I lube generally with VG with no leaking issues with either of my Terms. It may seal easier with Vaseline, but I've had no problems as of yet
Someday I'll take a picture of what I call my bone pile. I keep all the old wicks and coils for to use if it ever become necessary. I have a pretty big pile
I have my own small pile, but it's mainly just cotton, bamboo, and silica wicks
Flat-braid, squarebraid, Oh.. and some very cheaply made "Hyper SRTs" that failed after 14 days of use. Beyond that I still have my AGAs and Vivis. I bought my Provari right off the bat, so no PVs in said "bone yard"
Flat-braid, squarebraid, Oh.. and some very cheaply made "Hyper SRTs" that failed after 14 days of use. Beyond that I still have my AGAs and Vivis. I bought my Provari right off the bat, so no PVs in said "bone yard"
Ok, it appears to have stopped eating! Wish I would have asked earlier!
Thanks again.
Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2
Thanks again.
Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2
Funnily enough, all these issues are identical to the original Ody! lol But the vape is so good, we don't mind 'em
Glad to hear you have the leaking under control
Oh, and if it gurgles a bit from opening the mouthpiece too much, just raise the base above the mouthpiece slightly as you vape to allow the extra fluid to run back into the ceramic cup. easy
Glad to hear you have the leaking under control
Oh, and if it gurgles a bit from opening the mouthpiece too much, just raise the base above the mouthpiece slightly as you vape to allow the extra fluid to run back into the ceramic cup. easy
Last edited:
Yup seems good now!
BtW, has anyone tried using 2 of the small orings below the ceramic cup to straighten the crookedness on big mods? The supplier said this is the fix and I wondered if it worked.
Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2
BtW, has anyone tried using 2 of the small orings below the ceramic cup to straighten the crookedness on big mods? The supplier said this is the fix and I wondered if it worked.
Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2
I made a spacer/washer and put it between the nut and the o-ring, so no, I haven't tried two o-rings since they could slip out of alignment easier (just my opinion). I'm not implying it wouldn't work, I just prefer a solid spacer with a single o-ring
Last edited:
I did the same, I don't think much about using two o-rings either but it should workI made a spacer/washer and put it between the nut and the o-ring, so no, I haven't tried two o-rings since they could slip out of alignment easier (just my opinion). I'm not implying it wouldn't work, I just prefer a solid spacer with a single o-ring
Last edited:
I made a spacer/washer and put it between the nut and the o-ring, so no, I haven't tried two o-rings since they could slip out of alignment easier (just my opinion). I'm not implying it wouldn't work, I just prefer a solid spacer with a single o-ring
Can you post a picture of your spacer along with measurements? That's going to be the next thing I tackle.
Okay: Spacer I made of simple plastic from drywall anchor you'd use to hang a picture or curtain rod with a screw. I separated the part that goes into the wall and kept the "lip" that would keep the anchor from sliding into the hole. Hope that's clear enough.
It was about 1.8 mm thick; I sanded it down to 0.7 thickness.
inside diameter: 4 mm perfectly snug on the post. (if you use metal, make it 4.1mm)
outside diameter: 8mm (gives enough extra material for the o-ring to expand and maintain seal)
thickness/height: 0.7mm
Easy good fix. i'll be turning one out of SS, but too lazy this weekend
It was about 1.8 mm thick; I sanded it down to 0.7 thickness.
inside diameter: 4 mm perfectly snug on the post. (if you use metal, make it 4.1mm)
outside diameter: 8mm (gives enough extra material for the o-ring to expand and maintain seal)
thickness/height: 0.7mm
Easy good fix. i'll be turning one out of SS, but too lazy this weekend
Okay: Spacer I made of simple plastic from drywall anchor you'd use to hang a picture or curtain rod with a screw. I separated the part that goes into the wall and kept the "lip" that would keep the anchor from sliding into the hole. Hope that's clear enough.
It was about 1.8 mm thick; I sanded it down to 0.7 thickness.
inside diameter: 4 mm perfectly snug on the post. (if you use metal, make it 4.1mm)
outside diameter: 8mm (gives enough extra material for the o-ring to expand and maintain seal)
thickness/height: 0.7mm
Easy good fix. i'll be turning one out of SS, but too lazy this weekend
I've been thinking of just hacking up a cartomizer "mouthpiece/endcap."
I hear ya. I've been eyeing one of my vivi's mouthpieces for a few days... I need a second one
- Status
Similar threads
