The "200w" questionare!
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Most dual battery mods should (and most newer ones do) have high current diode protection to prevent one battery from reverse discharging into the other. My understanding of marrying batteries is that you buy new and identical batteries and keep those two as a pair throughout their life for use in a dual cell parallel mod. It's that simple.
Most 2 and 4 cell battery chargers monitor each bay independently and cut off charging when a cell reaches 4.2v. LUC 4 shows actual voltage on each bay as charging progresses. You should mark each battery to make it easy to keep them matched.
Most 2 and 4 cell battery chargers monitor each bay independently and cut off charging when a cell reaches 4.2v. LUC 4 shows actual voltage on each bay as charging progresses. You should mark each battery to make it easy to keep them matched.
Many of the xtar chargers show individual voltages as well... and to an added decimal place, which I like.
For example, this is one of my xtar vp2 chargers...
The vp4 display is identical. Whereas the luc only gives you 1 decimal place.
To be fair, marrying batteries for high current, lipo pack, hobby purposes should ideally be more involved than just buying 2 xxx cells and soldering them up.
But "marrying" a couple INR or IMR cells for vaping, I completely agree.
The hobby end is way more intensive in many ways. We have it easy in vaping.
Tapatyped
We all hear the stories of ecigs exploding, burning, and spewing. The news media love to cover these tales of woe. It's sad that many who jump into high watt vaping do so without educating themselves of the dangers before buying knockoff batteries to vape .15 ohm coils. Below is an example of a guy who lost the battery cover (or at least the screws that held it on). It went into meltdown after he dropped his keys into the pocket where he had his IPV 3 with no battery cover.
He did admit his negligence caused the problem. He lost the screws for the IPV 3 back cover. One account says he taped it on and it fell off.
Tenn. teen burned by exploding vape warns of potential dangers
He did admit his negligence caused the problem. He lost the screws for the IPV 3 back cover. One account says he taped it on and it fell off.
Tenn. teen burned by exploding vape warns of potential dangers
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I like the hundredths display on the Xtar. As you said, the LUC 4 only displays tenths. I'm pretty comfortable knowing that my batteries stay matched at the tenths level during charge and discharge on the LUC 4, though.
I've taken them out of my Koopor Plus and stuck them into the charger at various times to check and they always match to the tenth of a volt when charging and when I take them out and check them midway through a cycle in the mod. Doing that just gives me a little more confidence that they are still matching charge and discharge rates.
Really? When I take my married pairs (I've got several all LG HE4's) from my Vaper Flask DNA40, they often read 0.1-0.2 volts differently.
Example: one 3.7v the other 3.5v.
I've never considered this an issue as long as they both read 4.2 and are the same married pair when I put them back in the Mod.
The goal of matching batteries assumes that you are lucky enough to get two that are truly matched. That would mean that their discharge curves match. In reality, there's going to be some variance, but there's a lot of difference in 3.7v and 3.5v. Most of us like to put them back on the charger when they reach 3.5v to avoid stressing the battery. 3.7v is a midrange voltage that seems to persist longer for more vaping time before dropping off the curve to 3.5v. Once you hit 3.5v the curve drops rapidly.
.1v is probably ok, but .2v difference may not be optimal. The cell at 3.7v has significant time left and the one at 3.5v is about the fall off the deep end.
Check out the discharge voltage and time curve graphs in the link below and compare the curve at 3.5v and 3.7v.
Test/Review of LG 18650 HE4 2500mAh (Yellow)
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I've been using my Smok Koopor Plus 200W as my primary around the house vape. It has performed well, but I'm not stressing it at 10W. I bought it for the two day vape time it gives me for tootle vaping.
My Samsung 25R's and my (shudder) Efest 3000mah have been providing just about the same vape time. I take them out when the battery display is about 1/4 full. That equates to 3.4v on both the Samsungs and the Efests. When I stick them in my Luc4 charger they both read 3.4v and the voltage readings match as they charge up to 4.2v. I don't know that I could tell the difference in them if they were rewrapped to make it a blind study.
I must have gotten the 20A version of the Efests. Lucky me! Yes, I know better than to stress the Efests. When I bought the mod from my local vape shop, They were out of Samsung, LG, and Sony batteries, so I took the Efests just to have a matched pair to use it until I could order some Samsungs. I was surprised to fnd that they charged and discharged equally and matched charge and discharge rates exactly.
My Samsung 25R's and my (shudder) Efest 3000mah have been providing just about the same vape time. I take them out when the battery display is about 1/4 full. That equates to 3.4v on both the Samsungs and the Efests. When I stick them in my Luc4 charger they both read 3.4v and the voltage readings match as they charge up to 4.2v. I don't know that I could tell the difference in them if they were rewrapped to make it a blind study.
I must have gotten the 20A version of the Efests. Lucky me! Yes, I know better than to stress the Efests. When I bought the mod from my local vape shop, They were out of Samsung, LG, and Sony batteries, so I took the Efests just to have a matched pair to use it until I could order some Samsungs. I was surprised to fnd that they charged and discharged equally and matched charge and discharge rates exactly.
Many of the xtar chargers show individual voltages as well... and to an added decimal place, which I like.
For example, this is one of my xtar vp2 chargers...
The vp4 display is identical. Whereas the luc only gives you 1 decimal place.
To be fair, marrying batteries for high current, lipo pack, hobby purposes should ideally be more involved than just buying 2 xxx cells and soldering them up.
But "marrying" a couple INR or IMR cells for vaping, I completely agree.
The hobby end is way more intensive in many ways. We have it easy in vaping.
Tapatyped
I like it! Looks like I'll have to checkout Xtar. I use my LUC 4 all the time. Might Nitecore i4 has been relegated to charging my NiMh AA and AAA batteries. That and my old 4 silver bay Tenergy charger.
It's reassuring and heartwarming to know that homophobia is alive and well on these forums.
I have the Efest LUC V2 2-bay charger, and the display looks the same as that xstar. I have noticed that my batteries can be anywhere from .2-.6 off, but I charge them usually way before they get down to 3.5. For example, sometimes it will read, 3.81-3.85. Is this bad? I try to switch them in my mod after each charging. Another weird thing I noticed is that every now and then when they are both on trickle mode, one will finish (when they both read 4.20) way quicker than it should. (On this charger the arrows stop blinking when both cells are at 4.20). I usually take it off and put it back on and it continues to charge. Doesn't happen every time, but concerns me a bit. Is it possible one bay charges faster than the other? My batteries are Imren 3000 mah 40 amps (which I know are 20 if I'm lucky), but they seem to have a pretty long life, and I've tested them between 70-120 watts on builds from 0.35-0.4 with no issues. The guy at the vape shop sold me on them, people seem to like them everywhere but this forum. I think I may just buy a pair of LGs or Samsungs to use as my main batteries and keep the the Imrens as backup. One other thing, sometimes when one cell finishes charging, the other will either finish like 2 seconds after I take it off, or if I move it a little bit (basically just turn it slightly, it will read as fully charged. Is this normal? Any help would be appreciated. Again, no problems so far with the charger or batteries but I went from using an iStick 50 watt with a USB charger to a Vaporflask classic with an external charger and batteries. Just want to make sure I'm not doing anything I shouldn't. Sometimes I do get worried when one cell reads that it's fully charged during the 4.20 trickle mode and I know it was too early.
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