The "200w" questionare!
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Vp2 comes with the adapter.
Dunno if that makes it cheaper than the vc2 plus adapter or not.
Tapatyped
So I think this question will help me a lot:
So from doing the math, if I were to buy the Smok 0.16ohm Octuple Fused Clapton Coil, it is very reasonable that it would truly take all of the recommended 150w to power all that. The 4-Coil as it is takes about 80-100w in most folks opinion.
0.16ohm, 150w, simply a lot of wire to heat. That's 30.62 amps.
Now, when batteries are dualed, do the 20a ratings combine to make a pure 40a? If so, seems fine.
BUT what happens as the battery looses charge? Do the amps stay as capable if the battery is low?
So from doing the math, if I were to buy the Smok 0.16ohm Octuple Fused Clapton Coil, it is very reasonable that it would truly take all of the recommended 150w to power all that. The 4-Coil as it is takes about 80-100w in most folks opinion.
0.16ohm, 150w, simply a lot of wire to heat. That's 30.62 amps.
Now, when batteries are dualed, do the 20a ratings combine to make a pure 40a? If so, seems fine.
BUT what happens as the battery looses charge? Do the amps stay as capable if the battery is low?
No, the current is not combined in a series mod - the amount of current drawn is the same through both batteries. When the batteries are in parallel half of the current flows through each - so the max safe current is effectively doubled.
In a series box, for example, lets say the batteries are 4 volts each for a total of 8 volts. With a load of 1 ohm, the same 8 amps flows through both batteries.
In a parallel box the voltage would be 4 volts. The same 1 ohm load would draw 4 amps - with each battery providing 2 amps.
In a series box, for example, lets say the batteries are 4 volts each for a total of 8 volts. With a load of 1 ohm, the same 8 amps flows through both batteries.
In a parallel box the voltage would be 4 volts. The same 1 ohm load would draw 4 amps - with each battery providing 2 amps.
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Why not just buy a DNA 200 device that uses LIPO batteries? The only good manufacture, from China, imho is Yihi. Lipo batteries are better for vaping, they can handle high current, 18650s were never really meant for the amount of amps we're pushing, lipo packs are.
So wait, what is the Koopor Plus then, parallel or series? Will I be running it safe?
I'm really worried sick about this as I just bought a couple 20a 25r's after dancing around on this thread for days and I'm going to be a little tee'd if I find out I can't run safely (or even at all) higher than 60-80w on this mod with the particular coils Smok make (most are indeed like 0.16-0.3ohm). I didn't buy this thing to vape on a Kanger Subtank with it.
-_-
I'm really worried sick about this as I just bought a couple 20a 25r's after dancing around on this thread for days and I'm going to be a little tee'd if I find out I can't run safely (or even at all) higher than 60-80w on this mod with the particular coils Smok make (most are indeed like 0.16-0.3ohm). I didn't buy this thing to vape on a Kanger Subtank with it.
-_-
Here is what you need to know to figure it out for yourself.
V x A = W or W / V = A
Example: A brand new 20A battery at a cutoff voltage of 3.2V can give: 3.2V x 20A = 64W
Two in series would be 6.4V x 20A = 128W
Two in parallel would be 3.2V x 40A = 128W
You know the CDR of your batteries.
All you need to do is find the cutoff voltage of the mod and insert it into the above equation.
Reminder: Every cycle takes a bit of life out of the battery, over ~150 cycles a 25R becomes a 10A battery so replace your batteries as necessary.
I have no experience with either mod, so I can't help you choose. I participate in another thread where they love the Wismec part and have posted no problems. They use some tall watts, too.
If you will order from Orbtronic, Illumn or RTDVapor, you will get authentic batteries, no matter what kind you buy. I probably would not select VTC5s for either mod. It's a solid 20 amp battery, but so are others, and they have better mAh capacity. The Samsung 25Rs or the LG HE2s or HE4s are all 20 amp batteries with 2500 mAh. The LG HG2 is 20 amp, 3000mAh for better battery life, as is the AW IMR 3000 mAh part. For the thickest safety margin with decent life, try the Sony VTC4s. The VTC4 is also a 20 amp battery (2100 mAh) but will tolerate 30a without dangerous overheating. They are all I use. There are a couple native 30 amp batteries, but the Sony VTC3 is near impossible to get, and the LG HB6 has miserable life at 1100 mAh. They guys (and gals) in my thread using the RL200s love the 3000 mAh LG HG2s, and report no problems.
It's safe enough to run the machine at 200 watts with 20 amp batteries (although I prefer the VTC4s for better safety). Essentially, the 200 watts is advertising hype. Yeah, they hit 200 watts, but it doesn't do it as continuous duty. The mods pulse the power to keep within the batteries' capability. They are not true 200 watt RMS continuous machines.
I use an I4 charger, and it will charge two batteries at 750mah but, if you put in a third, it charges all 3 at 375 mAh. It does reduce charge by individual bay for the last 10% or so of charge. The closer it gets to 4.2 volts, the slower it charges. I don't think that would divorce batteries.
I have no experience with that tank. But if you can build coils and want one that will take anything the RL200 will throw, take a look at the Indulgence MT.
Got the two batteries and Xstar charger in.
The two 25r batteries from illumin are sort of badly wrapped - the wrap is almost coming into contact with the flattop, both are very crooked.
A question about both.
The VC2 instructions say that when charge is absolutely complete, the screen blinks every 10 seconds. Mine doesn't do that, it just says "full" by charge. The instructions say this too, but word it as though it's still touching up on the battery until the screen truly blinks. Any idea?
And with the two new batteries, am I supposed to charge them, check them on the charger for a second to be safe, or use completely as is?
The two 25r batteries from illumin are sort of badly wrapped - the wrap is almost coming into contact with the flattop, both are very crooked.
A question about both.
The VC2 instructions say that when charge is absolutely complete, the screen blinks every 10 seconds. Mine doesn't do that, it just says "full" by charge. The instructions say this too, but word it as though it's still touching up on the battery until the screen truly blinks. Any idea?
And with the two new batteries, am I supposed to charge them, check them on the charger for a second to be safe, or use completely as is?
I am surprised to hear you say the batteries are badly wrapped. Both of them? It seems odd. I've never seen one not wrapped right, and Illumn is a solid vendor. Can you post a pic? I don't actually know about the screen blinking when the charge is absolutely full, and I can't check; my Xtar is at my gal's house for use over there. Here I have a nitecore part. If memory serves-- I have a VC4-- my screen never blinked about full charge. Rather, the VC4 has an LED above the battery slot which changes colors at full charge. The only thing I can suggest is look at the screen for the charging current. It is supposed to shut off once the battery is full, so it ought to say full and current should be zero. Finally, new batteries should always be brought to full charge before use.
Well, its the VC2 and it only has what I guess is a guage for what amps are going into the charger (it's always at 5amps even with no batteries) and a guage per battery to say what the voltage of the battery. When the battery gets to 4.2 it stays at 4.2 for awhile (still charging as the Mah's keep counting and then it finally blinks "full"). I just hope it isnt overcharging.
NiteCore charger full review. Does not seem to hurt anything that they are not all charged simultaneously.
I've now got 12 HE4's, and while I try to keep them as matched pairs, it is becoming harder to remember which pairs are older then others.
Is there a way to test for the CDR amp drop as they age?
Almost certainly not. That Xtar is a good charger. If it's overcharging, its broken.
Not without bench testing the batteries. Ifyour charger indicates total mAh put in the battery during charge, you can estimate it. The less capacity it holds, the less ampacity it will tolerate. If your charger doesn't, the best I can suggest is watch your charge time. As capacity decreases, so should charge time.
I too was torn on what to buy between the Koopor Plus, the Fuchai 200W, and the RX200. After extensive research, I chose the RX200. It seems the overall quality far surpasses the other two by all of the reviews I have seen. I went with Sony VTC4's, because safety was my number 1 concern. I also purchased a new 4 bay Nitecore charger, because I wanted to charge all three batteries at the same time on the same charger I have not received it yet, but I am very confident that I made the right choice.
you guys charging batts in these chargers that charge each slot independantly...this is NOT marrying batteries.In order to be truly married batteries must be balanced to each other.None of the 18650 chargers I have seen do this
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