???the best battery period???

[zoiDman]

Of course. But as you and Rossum pointed out, most batteries will vent from the top. Since a venting battery may swell in size, the increased physical volume of the battery could block the gas pathway to the bottom of the mod. Essentially no venting possible out the bottom. Maybe side vent holes in addition to a bottom hole are a better idea?

I think you Missed my post #77.

 

[tchavei]

Point is there is more risk venting the battery inverted than upright as it will short out on a almost any surface... That's the same as jumping out of a car at 90 mph because if the car hits that wall down the road it might hurt you if you're inside... The car is definitely crash into the wall if nobody is steering it... Get the analogy?



Regards
Tony

Ps : a hole on a side or both would be, in fact a good idea. If there would be a way to get the positive pole somehow to conduct electricity from the bottom to the center of the connector it would be even better but it wouldn't be mechanical anymore (read as no wires)

Ps2: it's not feasible nor safe the more I think about it... Imagine a scratch in the battery wrap... Instant hard short if battery inverted... Accident waiting to happen.


Sent from my GT-I9195 through Tapatalk

 

[69CamaroSS]

20 amps are within the safe zone for 0.45 coils, and leaves a margin of safety. This is my personal opinion.

1.0 ohm = 4.2 amp draw
0.9 ohm = 4.6 amp draw
0.8 ohm = 5.2 amp draw
0.7 ohms = 6 amp draw
0.6 ohms = 7 amp draw
0.5 ohms = 8.4 amp draw
0.4 ohms = 10.5 amp draw
0.3 ohms = 14.0 amp draw = (margin of safety)
0.2 ohms = 21.0 amp draw (over spec)
0.1 ohms = 42.0 amp draw = (over spec)

• AW 18650 1600mah 24A
• LG 18650HE2 2500mah 20A
• MNKE IMR 18650 1500mah ​20A
• Orbtronic 18650 SX22 2000mAh 22A
• Orbtronic 18650 2500mAh 21A
• Samsung INR18650-20R 2000mah 22A
• Samsung INR18650-25R 2500mAh 20A
• purple Efest 18650 2500mAh 35A* (rebranded LG18650HE2 2500mAh 20 amp*) <-- actually a 20 amp battery

I disregard "pulse discharge" ratings. They are not standardized within the battery industry like the "continuous discharge" ratings. Pulse ratings give a false sense of security. Any failure, mechanical or electronic, that fires the mod will operate in the 'continuous' mode. If your setup relied on a pulse rating, it's instantly over spec.

If your amp draw is safely in the continuous discharge range, your coil could act almost like a fuse, burn out before the battery is stressed. If you are running the battery at the edge of it's limits (relying on the pulse rating), there is no margin of safety.

Again, this is my personal opinion. People who are running 0.1 ohm or less coils are over the specs for any 30 amp battery.

Thank you brother Baditude! Yet again, you've perfectly answered my question as well as going above and beyond including even more pertinent and relevant info. You're the best, man and I (like so many others) greatly appreciate your knowledge and more so...your taking the time to share it with us and help us (hopefully) remain safe, happy vapers.

 

[gel drops]

Sony VTC 5 2600mah! 18650..

 

[Flavored]

Well technically it will work but it's a very bad idea... There is a reason we call negative pole "ground "... It's because everything is negative.

If you invert the polarity, then you nice mechanical mod will be positive all-around it's body and it will discharge or worse (sparks come to mind) when it comes in contact with anything grounded, yourself included... Bad idea.



Regards
Tony

Sent from my GT-I9195 through Tapatalk

Is this One of those "Path of Least Resistance" things?

The Reason I ask, is another Member, Rossum?, mentioned that Batteries are Designed to Vent at the Positive End of the Battery. But Most Mods are Designed to Vent thru the End Cap.

So if the Battery Swells, Venting Gases might not be able to go around the Battery. Making the End Cap Vent Hole not very Useful.

So I wondered if a Mod was Designed for the Positive End of the Battery to be on the Battery Cap End/Vent Hole, wouldn't that be a Better Design?

Then I wondered about a Mech Mod?

Point is there is more risk venting the battery inverted than upright as it will short out on a almost any surface... That's the same as jumping out of a car at 90 mph because if the car hits that wall down the road it might hurt you if you're inside... The car is definitely crash into the wall if nobody is steering it... Get the analogy?



Regards
Tony

Ps : a hole on a side or both would be, in fact a good idea. If there would be a way to get the positive pole somehow to conduct electricity from the bottom to the center of the connector it would be even better but it wouldn't be mechanical anymore (read as no wires)

Ps2: it's not feasible nor safe the more I think about it... Imagine a scratch in the battery wrap... Instant hard short if battery inverted... Accident waiting to happen.


Sent from my GT-I9195 through Tapatalk

Sorry, but that is wrong. A battery's negative isn’t ground unless it is connected to ground. You have to complete the circuit from the positive of the battery to the negative of the battery in order to short it out. With the battery in upside down, the negative is now confined to what would be the “positive” post of your atomizer connector.

 

[tchavei]

Negative should be confined but by design the whole battery body is negative so it will be much more likely to short it if there is a tear in the wrap.

About the negative / ground thing... Like I said, it would work however it's a bad idea because ground is everywhere.


Regards
Tony

Sent from my GT-I9195 through Tapatalk

 

[tj99959]

Ok, it has been shown that the label on these batteries may be misleading. The batteries are working for me, however. I don't think you posted the right specifications. The ones I have been using are 2500mah, with a 35A label. Do you have an LG spec sheet for these?

Ironically the "spec sheet for the 2500mah battery looks like this: (that's why I used the 2100mah spec sheet)

35A Efest IMR 18650 2500mah nipple 3.7V rechargeable battery button top
pecification:
Size
Weight: 50g Size: 65.69mm(L)x18.30mm(D)
Information Top: Button top Bottom: unprotected
Capacity Typical Capacity: 2500mAh
Temperature: Discharge temperature range: -20°C—60°C
Charge temperature range: 0°C—45°C
Storage: 1 year: -20°C—25°C
3 months: -20°C—45°C
1 month: -20°C—60°C

The one problem with the VTC batteries is that they became to popular to fast. Plus the fact that the plant that was originally making them became radioactive causing a disruption in production.
Guess what battery the counterfeiters are in love with!

Also there are many people that are using VTC batteries (because they are all the rage) that have absolutely no need of a 30 amp battery.

 

[OMCKenzie]

18650's I really like the Sony IMR Batteries. Figured its one thing I don't want to cheap out on and have it pop in my face.

 

[Muggs]

I have used Efest, AW and Sony IMR's. To be honest I don't see a performance difference between the Efest and AW. The Sony seems to hit noticeably better in a mech than the others.

 

[Flavored]

Negative should be confined but by design the whole battery body is negative so it will be much more likely to short it if there is a tear in the wrap.

About the negative / ground thing... Like I said, it would work however it's a bad idea because ground is everywhere.


Regards
Tony

Sent from my GT-I9195 through Tapatalk

With the body all positive, touching it to ground will do nothing because the battery negative is not connected to ground. Take a free battery and touch the positive (only) to ground . . . nothing will happen. You have to complete the circuit from positive to negative to harm the battery, and the battery is connected to nothing, ie – is not connected to ground in any way.

 

[tchavei]

You are right, , it won't damage the battery but it's still a bad idea.



Regards
Tony

Sent from my GT-I9195 through Tapatalk

 

[zoiDman]

Lets start Again. Forget about all present Tube Mod Configurations.

From a Fundamental Point of View. If a Battery is Designed to Vent from the Positive End of the Battery, would it be Better to have the Positive End of the battery Pointing at the User?

Or would it be Better to have Positive End Pointing Away from the User?

 

[tchavei]

Pointing away obviously I think?

Regards
Tony

Sent from my GT-I9195 through Tapatalk

 

[tj99959]

From a fundamental point of view, it would be best if the battery was located remotely from the user.










now where did I put those old "goosenecks"?

 

[zoiDman]

From a fundamental point of view, it would be best if the battery was located remotely from the user.




now where did I put those old "goosenecks"?

A Wi-Fi transmitted Power Supply perhaps?

 

[zoiDman]

Pointing away obviously I think?

Regards
Tony

Sent from my GT-I9195 through Tapatalk

It would seem to be the Better of the Two Choices for a Tube Style Mod.

So then the Question, from a Design Standpoint, becomes can a Tube Style Mod be Made Effectively and Cost Efficiently that has the Positive End of the Battery Pointed Away from the User?

 

[zoiDman]

BTW - It's Funny sometimes to see the Different Levels and Different Degrees of Knowledge that people have about Batteries.

People in this Thread Scrutinize Minute Details about Batteries. And engage in Discussions about things like Pulse Durations Standards.

And then you have threads like this...

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/new-members-forum/597819-laptop-batterys-mod.html

... where the OP is asking a Question that seems Perfectly Norm to Him or Her.

 

[tchavei]

It would seem to be the Better of the Two Choices for a Tube Style Mod.

So then the Question, from a Design Standpoint, becomes can a Tube Style Mod be Made Effectively and Cost Efficiently that has the Positive End of the Battery Pointed Away from the User?

Well you can put a heavy wire all around the mod and you would need to find a way to incorporate a switch but wouldn't that defeat the definition of "mechanical" as in no wires?

Don't know... Seems easier to just drill 4 holes near the positive pole location so it can vent properly if needed?

I remember seeing a mod that had four huge slots all across the mod body... That one is surely more adequate incase the worse happens.


Regards
Tony

Sent from my GT-I9195 through Tapatalk

 

[zoiDman]

Well you can put a heavy wire all around the mod and you would need to find a way to incorporate a switch but wouldn't that defeat the definition of "mechanical" as in no wires?

Don't know... Seems easier to just drill 4 holes near the positive pole location so it can vent properly if needed?

I remember seeing a mod that had four huge slots all across the mod body... That one is surely more adequate incase the worse happens.


Regards
Tony

Sent from my GT-I9195 through Tapatalk

Not Sure why a Mech Mod can't have a wire in it? Maybe someone can Chime in on this?

All I'm trying to get at here is if there are Hurdles to overcome with a Design that has the Battery Positive End Pointing away from the User, and there is an Easier Way to Vent a MOD keeping things the Way they are, why aren't All OEM Putting Vent Holes on at the Positive end of Mech Mods?

I scan down the pictures of Mech Mod after Mech Mod on a site like Focalecig. Hard to find a Mech Mod that has Any Venting besides the End Cap Hole.

 

[subiesltvb]

i would like to talk about batteries i have 2 vtc4s & 2 vtc5s i just bought a lg the other day i want to try the efests but some people say there not that geat anyone try
any vamps i think they are around 40amps and then like my mvp i have i have to charge around 8oclock when i start vaping on at 6am and mine not that old i had the skinny itaste vv/vw mod with 5 iclears before i sold it to my sister inlaw but off topic back to the mvp some of the employs at local shop have theirs last a few days and this might be for another thread but sometimes i have to adjust the pin on it when using different tanks