The BF experiment

[EagleTa2]

So, rather than modify a TF cyclone...I am going to try a minor experiment.

I am going to pick up a really cheap 14mm atty that alleges to be stainless for $7 and im going to convert it to bf by removing the positive pin and drilling it out deep enough to intersect aith a hole right at deck level. If I am feeling fancy, I might even ange the juice hole down slightly rather than coming in at 90degrees for better draining.

any other ideas? if successful, Ill publish pictures. If not, I will keep them hidden...lol

I should have two attys to play with next week.

Thanks
Geo

 

[SeaNap]

Sounds like a fun project, I am very interested in your results. I have two cyclone bases that are TF.

Does anybody know if the igo-s center pin will fit into a cyclone base?

 

[Quigsworth]

So, rather than modify a TF cyclone...I am going to try a minor experiment.

I am going to pick up a really cheap 14mm atty that alleges to be stainless for $7 and im going to convert it to bf by removing the positive pin and drilling it out deep enough to intersect aith a hole right at deck level. If I am feeling fancy, I might even ange the juice hole down slightly rather than coming in at 90degrees for better draining.

any other ideas? if successful, Ill publish pictures. If not, I will keep them hidden...lol

I should have two attys to play with next week.

Thanks
Geo

That's pretty much 1 of the 2 methods to bf an rda...don't remove the pin, leave it in and let the RDA support it while you drill down through the screw hole, see link...the other method is to press the pin out and slot the side with a dremal "metal cut-off disc" then press the pin back in.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lFj92vGrOaY

personally, if you have the tools, drilling will give you a more "pro" look from an aesthetic "fit/finish" perspective though slotting works just fine though sometimes getting the pin out can be a bit$#...if your RDA is cheap, meh, who cares how it looks, slot away, but it'll also be easier to drill as it's center pin is most likely only plated brass.

 

[Chowderhead1972]

Sounds like a fun project, I am very interested in your results. I have two cyclone bases that are TF.

Does anybody know if the igo-s center pin will fit into a cyclone base?

Now that is cheating! Time-out mister! Go stand in the corner!

 

[patrao_n]

Be careful drilling through the pin while its still in the atty. If its stainless, you will likely melt the insulator while drilling through it. Brass and copper pins are a breeze though. If you insist on drilling the ss pin while in the atty, do it slow and cool the thing so nothing heats up too bad. Goodluck

Sent from my SM-N900T

 

[EagleTa2]

That's pretty much 1 of the 2 methods to bf an RDA...don't remove the pin, leave it in and let the RDA support it while you drill down through the screw hole, see link...the other method is to press the pin out and slot the side with a dremal "metal cut-off disc" then press the pin back in.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lFj92vGrOaY

personally, if you have the tools, drilling will give you a more "pro" look from an aesthetic "fit/finish" perspective though slotting works just fine though sometimes getting the pin out can be a bit$#...if your RDA is cheap, meh, who cares how it looks, slot away, but it'll also be easier to drill as it's center pin is most likely only plated brass.

i m definitely planning to drill these. Just looks better to me...and more like I planned to do something instead of a controlled mistake.

I have a ShopSmith Mark V 510 with a drill press vise on it, so if I can get the pin out holding it would not be an issue. My concern is the smallest bit I have is 1/16 and the slowest I can make the ShopSmith go is 700rpm. Do you think that will be too fast?

Thanks
Geo

BTW nice videos Quigsworth...I have probably watched them 20 times over the last few months...lol

 

[Quigsworth]

Be careful drilling through the pin while its still in the atty. If its stainless, you will likely melt the insulator while drilling through it. Brass and copper pins are a breeze though. If you insist on drilling the ss pin while in the atty, do it slow and cool the thing so nothing heats up too bad. Goodluck

Sent from my SM-N900T

That's why they invented cutting oil...but honestly, save your money, WD40 or 3in1 works pretty good to sink the heat away...the biggest variable is get a good bit, preferably a cobalt bit and don't just force it through in one shot because it will heat up, you'll work harden the pin (as well as melt the insulator from the heat) and you're done...peck at it, say a 1/16 to 1/8 at a time, re add more WD40/3in1/whatever between pecks and clear away your shavings out of the flutes of the bit...don't get impatient, it'll go.

 

[patrao_n]

Ya I know. I use cutting oil all day long. Was just letting people who don't machine know why to watch for. Thanks though quigsworth

Sent from my SM-N900T

 

[Chowderhead1972]

Any idea what size drill bit would match the bf Cyclone? #55?

 

[Big Hitter]

Whew I'm glad that was your first sentence ....... After reading the title my mind was on The Boy Friend Experiment ......

Not that theirs anything wrong with that ......


But whew! ... I kid

 

[canoeist]

I just got 2 cyclone clones to try. Planning on cutting a groove in the insulators.

 

[Steamer861]

A 1/16 is pretty big it leaves you a very small margin for error You can get a drill bit set(Dremel) at home depot it has a 1/32 and 3/64

i m definitely planning to drill these. Just looks better to me...and more like I planned to do something instead of a controlled mistake.

I have a ShopSmith Mark V 510 with a drill press vise on it, so if I can get the pin out holding it would not be an issue. My concern is the smallest bit I have is 1/16 and the slowest I can make the ShopSmith go is 700rpm. Do you think that will be too fast?

Thanks
Geo

BTW nice videos Quigsworth...I have probably watched them 20 times over the last few months...lol

 

[Big Hitter]

Keep in mind the smaller the bit the faster you should be spinning it ......

You actually create more heat by going at a slower RPM

You should go slow however when pushing the bit in ...... go in steps up and down and use a lube. Don't be afraid to stop and clear the chips.

Bits in the size range we are talking about should be spinning at 3000 RPMs for the most efficient cut. Most efficient means less heat being created.



http://www.fnal.gov/pub/takefive/pdfs/Drill_Press_Speed_Chart.pdf

 

[Big Hitter]

the slowest I can make the ShopSmith go is 700rpm. Do you think that will be too fast?

Way too slow .... Unless your drilling a half inch hole

You should be cranking it at 3K RPMs or even faster (most cheaper drill presses top out around 3k)

I have a shop smith mark V and if memory serves it goes up to 7K or 8k

I don't claim to be an expert (never been formally trained) but I started a machine shop when I was still in high school and sold it when I was 40 ...... I sit here retired and loving life with enough money to buy REOs so I must have done something right.

 

[Steamer861]

Here's some motivation for you Helios & Atomic converted to BF
Second attempt the Atomic I used a 3/64 bit I got the job done but the bit broke as I was finishing up

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[Quigsworth]

Nice work on the Helios, did you drill the pin from the connector end measuring your depth and intercept with the deck holes or did you take it all apart?

 

[Steamer861]

Thanks I drilled up from the bottom on both thats the easy part putting the hole in the round pin is harder thats were I broke the 3/64 bit

Nice work on the Helios, did you drill the pin from the connector end measuring your depth and intercept with the deck holes or did you take it all apart?

 

[Quigsworth]

Yup...I usually touch it with the dremal cut-off disc to put a bit of a flat surface on it then tap a starter divot with a super fine/sharp center punch...save a lot of drill bits that way, lol

 

[Steamer861]

I could have used that advice sooner

Yup...I usually touch it with the dremal cut-off disc to put a bit of a flat surface on it then tap a starter divot with a super fine/sharp center punch...save a lot of drill bits that way, lol

 

[Chowderhead1972]

Is that atomic original or clone? I have three atomic clones on the way to experiment with.

BTW: Smilin Vapes has them on sale for $19.
http://www.smilinvapes.com/Atomic_Clone_From_EHPRO/p2615712_12087366.aspx