If you are drilling the pin use cobalt! If your only drilling the insulator HSS will be fine. I have drilled a few... The center pin on the atomic clone is very hard stainless (read cheap) and has taken quite a few cobalt bits.
The BF experiment
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Thanks Chowder. I'm keeping it simple and drilling the insulator. 
Ordered those bits from Amazon last night, will let you guys know how they work out. And then, of course, Rob puts up the pre-modified Atomics on his sight....had to get one of those too.
Ordered those bits from Amazon last night, will let you guys know how they work out. And then, of course, Rob puts up the pre-modified Atomics on his sight....had to get one of those too.
So Chowder, are you still going to be here in this thread?
I've been following quietly behind the scenes drilling attys and comparing drill speeds.
I started out with a couple of stainless screws for practice and found as I increased drill speed, the hole accuracy improved. I'm currently running at 2600 RPM.
Then I promptly snapped a bit in my first Cyclone trying to go as fast as I did with my experimental screws. Just like everyone else here I found that going slow, taking small bites, clearing chips and giving time to cool in between produces success.
Also, a friend showed me that if you have plenty of cheap bits, or it's not a concern, you can drill without cutting fluid and the process time of getting good flavor out of your atty is greatly reduced. All you have to do then is pickle it to get rid of the lead that was freed up by resurfacing the metal.
I've been following quietly behind the scenes drilling attys and comparing drill speeds.
I started out with a couple of stainless screws for practice and found as I increased drill speed, the hole accuracy improved. I'm currently running at 2600 RPM.
Then I promptly snapped a bit in my first Cyclone trying to go as fast as I did with my experimental screws. Just like everyone else here I found that going slow, taking small bites, clearing chips and giving time to cool in between produces success.
Also, a friend showed me that if you have plenty of cheap bits, or it's not a concern, you can drill without cutting fluid and the process time of getting good flavor out of your atty is greatly reduced. All you have to do then is pickle it to get rid of the lead that was freed up by resurfacing the metal.
That's about the most logical platform for a quad coil set up I've ever seen...bf'ing it looks like it would be fun...may just have to grab one of those for sh*$'s and giggles
There's only one hole in the AFC ring though, not sure how its supposed to work. I bought one last night just to check out the posts, hoping to try some single coil setup with it, I must have an attack of the-grass-is-greener coming on 
ETA - nucleus rda is a similar vein.
ETA - nucleus rda is a similar vein.
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well, I promised I'd stop back by with some more track time on the drill speed. Bear in mind, I'm drilling a full 3/4" (19.foof mm), and that's pertinent cause it's the last 1/4" that gets successively more demanding. (#54 bit.) Anyway, I had been drilling at ~700rpm, and took Big Hitter's advice on trying ~3k. It looked promising, so I said I'd try it on my next batch of ~15 SS screws-to-be-pins. What I found was that I ended up with about the same number of failures (not straight enough). This may have more to do with practice than anything else. Nonetheless, given that I had about the same success rate as at any other speed, I looked at other factors: primarily heat and control. When you get that deep into a hole with such a tiny bit, overheating can happen almost instantaneously at 2-3k. Also, I never really developed the feel (actually feeling through my hands and ears what all's going on in there) for it. So, I played with a number of drill speeds and found that 1,100rpm seems to keep it as true as the faster speeds and I can hear and feel everything that's going on with ample time to react (disengage, clear, lube, all that stuff).
So: long→short, I'm happy with 1,100rpm.
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Thanks for the input pdib.
I haven't been drilling as deep as you but I did notice the heat-up before the bit even reached cutting depth when the hole starts getting deeper. It would make sense that a slower speed would reduce that somewhat.
I haven't been drilling as deep as you but I did notice the heat-up before the bit even reached cutting depth when the hole starts getting deeper. It would make sense that a slower speed would reduce that somewhat.
Found an atty I had never seen on a Reo before. Really like the looks of the Anima.
Found an atty I had never seen on a Reo before. Really like the looks of the Anima.
Is that yours? nice!
It was a combination of grooving the pin and drilling the deck. The positive post is off center, so the usual notching the insulator or drilling the pin wouldn't work.
That's built for quad coils. You're just getting into duals aren't you? The mod should be pretty easy but I've never used that atty before so not sure about performance.
I'm not sure about the IGO-W6 but I recently tried to drill an IGO-W7 only to find out that the center post is a press fit 2 piece and the top 1/2 of the post spun on the bit when I reached the split. I ended up using the post and customized insulator out a botched IGO-W2 to get it working. I put my usual dual 12s on it but wasn't impressed with the Vape. The chamber is pretty big so I'm going to try dual parallels on it before I give up. It's a nice looking atty and it was too much work to give up easy.
So I'm now glad I didn't give up easy on the IGO-7W.
.2Ω dual twisted, 26g Nichrome 80, 4/5 wrap, 2mm ID, 3mm ekowool.
So far very happy with this setup. Response time not bad, flavor and clouds pretty darn good.
I know - I know, switching posts is cheating but options are limited when you botch one up. Especially one that couldn't really be drilled out in the first place. I was able to use a post from a regular IGO and chop the insulator in 1/2 for the upper part of the bore and the original insulator for the lower part of the bore. The juice hole is a little high but that's why the post became available in the first place.
(Thanks to a certain Bee)
.2Ω dual twisted, 26g Nichrome 80, 4/5 wrap, 2mm ID, 3mm ekowool.
So far very happy with this setup. Response time not bad, flavor and clouds pretty darn good.
I know - I know, switching posts is cheating but options are limited when you botch one up. Especially one that couldn't really be drilled out in the first place. I was able to use a post from a regular IGO and chop the insulator in 1/2 for the upper part of the bore and the original insulator for the lower part of the bore. The juice hole is a little high but that's why the post became available in the first place.
(Thanks to a certain Bee)
Has anyone had any problems after drilling thru the brass center post on any of thees attys. I did it to an A6 and it makes my skin itch. Anyone else with any problems?
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