The BF experiment

[73neb]

Has anyone had any problems after drilling thru the brass center post on any of thees attys. I did it to an A6 and it makes my skin itch. Anyone else with any problems?

I've drilled some smok squid rda's that have brass posts, but I cleaned the brass in 2 parts white vinegar mixed with 1 part hydrogen peroxide before I vaped it. This solution removes the surface lead that gets exposed when drilling, polishing, etc. let the brass parts soak in it for 10 minutes, then rinse well with warm water. I've vaped mine a lot with no adverse reactions.

 

[disturbed1]

Thanks for the heads up. It has a bit of patina on it now. do you think it would take that off. It was good for about 2 week before it started bothering me. I guessing its the patina getting to me.

 

[havok333]

Thanks for the heads up. It has a bit of patina on it now. do you think it would take that off. It was good for about 2 week before it started bothering me. I guessing its the patina getting to me.

If you DIY then maybe you changed VG/PG vendor? I've heard of that lately. Or a new batch of base liquid?

Would definitely "pickle" the brass though if you have not after drilling.

 

[disturbed1]

If you DIY then maybe you changed VG/PG vendor? I've heard of that lately. Or a new batch of base liquid?

Would definitely "pickle" the brass though if you have not after drilling.

All my juice is the same. I buy in bulk. I have eanuf nic to last me years in the freezer. Will definitely soak it.

 

[disturbed1]

I've drilled some smok squid rda's that have brass posts, but I cleaned the brass in 2 parts white vinegar mixed with 1 part hydrogen peroxide before I vaped it. This solution removes the surface lead that gets exposed when drilling, polishing, etc. let the brass parts soak in it for 10 minutes, then rinse well with warm water. I've vaped mine a lot with no adverse reactions.

I have to say thanks for the tip. I did a soke on friday night. ended up being about a half hour as I lost track of time. Iv now been using it all weekend with no problems so fat.

 

[Chowderhead1972]

So Chowder, are you still going to be here in this thread?

I've been following quietly behind the scenes drilling attys and comparing drill speeds.

I started out with a couple of stainless screws for practice and found as I increased drill speed, the hole accuracy improved. I'm currently running at 2600 RPM.

Then I promptly snapped a bit in my first Cyclone trying to go as fast as I did with my experimental screws. Just like everyone else here I found that going slow, taking small bites, clearing chips and giving time to cool in between produces success.

Also, a friend showed me that if you have plenty of cheap bits, or it's not a concern, you can drill without cutting fluid and the process time of getting good flavor out of your atty is greatly reduced. All you have to do then is pickle it to get rid of the lead that was freed up by resurfacing the metal.

I will be around occasionally. I discovered 3k was a little fast after all. I dropped down to 2400 and have gone days without a broken bit. As to the no cutting oil makes for a better vape... Hogwash! Soak any parts that came in contact with cutting oil with acetone for 20 minutes, remove, dry, soak in a high concentration of dawn and water, rinse re-assemble. Rob actually gave me that hint. (Thanks Rob) Cutting oil is now a thing of the past.

 

[X-Puppy]

Thanks for the tip on how to get rid of the cutting fluid. I'll definitely try that on my next few. It sure would be nice to get more mileage out of my bits.

 

[Quigsworth]

I've mentioned this a few times here and there but I've actually found that if you have an old juice kicking around (as we all do) it makes a decent cutting fluid...I may be wrong but I've heard that it's job is 10% lubrication and 90% heat dispersion... I've read that some old school machinists have used milk (homo, not 2%)... especially when machining brass and copper.

 

[pdib]

what on earth is a 2% machinist? . . . . . I don't get it.

 

[JC Okie]

what on earth is a 2% machinist? . . . . . I don't get it.

pdib, good to see you over here and reading our forum every once in awhile. You getting enough sleep these days?

Jan

 

[Vapeaholic]

what on earth is a 2% machinist? . . . . . I don't get it.

Apparently it's different from a homo machinist.

 

[Vwls]

I will be around occasionally. I discovered 3k was a little fast after all. I dropped down to 2400 and have gone days without a broken bit. As to the no cutting oil makes for a better vape... Hogwash! Soak any parts that came in contact with cutting oil with acetone for 20 minutes, remove, dry, soak in a high concentration of dawn and water, rinse re-assemble. Rob actually gave me that hint. (Thanks Rob) Cutting oil is now a thing of the past.

Thanks for that - I was advised that olive oil works just as well for small applications, so I use that and have found it effective. The great thing is it washes off with soap and water, leaving no odor or residue.

 

[BockinBboy]

I thought Quigs was referring to the type of milk - but I dunno what homo milk is... all milk with milk fat is homogenized =/ ... but if we start analysing month old posts without the original poster's clarification, this could get way off topic!

- Bboy

 

[pdib]

pdib, good to see you over here and reading our forum every once in awhile. You getting enough sleep these days?

Jan

HI JAN!! hope you're well!

errrr . . . . um, sleep?

 

[deezdrama]

Im really wanting to get a magma rda to convert for bottomfeeding but after reading this whole thread I thought I remember an earlier post saying they drilled the center pin out with no problems and that it was a plated brass center pin..... but then the last one I read about the magma said theirs was stainless.

Is there different clone makers for the magma with different center pin materials?

I have a drill press and some small hss bits.... ive drilled out the center pin on a couple cyclone clones before, and converted a trident long ago by dremeling a groove in the insulator, but if if the magma indeed does have a stainless centerpin then there is no way I want to try to drill it out.
(Have had hell of a time just drilling out new air holes in stainless caps before and my smallest cobalts are 1/16")

I really want to try the magma on my grand.... ive been using this rm2 forever and want to try something different, I had another polished grand with the trident v2 on it... my buddy begged and begged for me to sell it to him, I gave hime a super deal...$50, next day he comes over and hands it to me and says "check out what I did"
The idiot used a grinder with 36grit resin sanding pads to "polish it" OMG I was ......... he ruined it , "polish" he said.... I could of done a gentler polishing job doing a burnout on it in the gravel. So...... ya, im ...... and need to update my only reo

 

[Quigsworth]

The Infinite Magma clones are awesome, my beloved Atomic's are a distant 2nd now...the only improvement I'd like to see would be a welded neg. post, currently they're only pressed in but I'm just being picky...

I've bf'd a couple (3rd on the way), excellent fit/finish quality (lose the plastic strut between the posts, what does it do?) and they have SS pins...but I'm pretty sure the pins are 302 (softest grade), spend the time setting up your tools, if you have a lathe it'll be a piece of cake but unless you have a fairly decent vice, using a drill press requires some marksmanship...doing it with a 1/16 bit would be a moon shot (and would weaken it too much imo)...I think I did mine with basic HSS #56's, (they're cheap and good for one hole then toss it)...use high RPM's, peck at it and use lots of juice,

 

[turbocad6]

I did my original magma , the center bridge is because when you tighten it all down the 2 posts want to tilt in towards each other slightly, bridge keeps them more securely vertical and braced to each other on the original one

 

[Quigsworth]

Cheers Turbo ...was actually my weak attempt at facetiousness

I get the theory behind it, but in my situation, I just question the efficacy (and wisdom) of the bridge/spreader...hence my comment on the pressed in neg. post supposedly acting as a "bracing" point for the "Z" configuration of the pos. post. The union quality of the clone's pressed post is pretty weak.

Are the originals welded? (or at least a tighter tolerance/deeper socket on the pressed union?)

One of the big reasons why I like the Magma's is the distance between the posts seems to be design built for dual 24 awg micros in the .5 range....with dual 24 awg coils I found it better to use the coils as a mechanical brace (though it would have helped if I mentioned that)

 

[Big Hitter]

I'm pretty sure the pins are 302 (softest grade)

Incase your wondering (Ya I know ... NOT) ..... 302, 303, and 304 SS all share the same rockwell hardness of 92

Only the jump to 316 makes any noticeable difference when drilling or machining ..... 316 SS has a harness of 95 rockwell.

And for the totally useless info .... because those three "grades" share the same hardness in the world of SS fasteners i.e. nuts bolts and screws there are only two primary grades .... 18-8 which can be made from 302,303,304 ...... or 316 fasteners made from 316 obviously. The 18-8 class was created because there was no way to guarantee which 30? SS you would get unless you had something custom made.


...... carry on


BTW have an infinite magma clone sitting a friends house .... might have to snag it back and BF it.

 

[deezdrama]

So the infinate clone is the one to get?

Anyone bf one of these by slotting the pos post?