The Darwin From Evolv!!!

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Liv2Ski

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I have read about the new switch sometimes not powering it off if you close it fast. A few times I have noticed mine not powering on. I don't think that I particularly open or close it fast. I notice it, close/open it slowly and it always powers on.

Anyone else noticed this?

Not on the new switch one yet but i have had it happen on the old switch one. I have also had two instances (on the old switch unit) when the arm was down for over 6 hours and the batt was totally dead when I went to use it. It happened this morning and was fully charged when I shut it down.
 

wv2win

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801 drip tips fit both the 510 and 801 Colossals, which means they're the same diameter as 801s and they're stovepipes so...guess you could call them 'true' 801s. I prefer the 2ohm myself and even the 2.5 available in other sizes.

Regular 801 attys and cartos definitely vape differently than 510's. They are cooler and not as hot which I prefer with a 5 volt or variable volt PV. I've been told it has to do with the air flow characteristics and coil size. That is why I was asking and wanted to get opinions from those who have used both. Thanks for you reply.
 

Sewknitty

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Regular 801 attys and cartos definitely vape differently than 510's. They are cooler and not as hot which I prefer with a 5 volt or variable volt PV. I've been told it has to do with the air flow characteristics and coil size. That is why I was asking and wanted to get opinions from those who have used both. Thanks for you reply.

I'm an 801 fan and I've had an 801 carto...the wadding was different and they were shorter. These have wadding more like the fusion or a 808 carto and, being 2.0 ohm and on the Darwin you can choose how cool a vape you want. The 801 is blissful because of the circumference of the tube...these have that circumference but they're dual coils, which means they're intended to be LR so if you're going for cool you might not like them.
 

wv2win

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I'm an 801 fan and I've had an 801 carto...the wadding was different and they were shorter. These have wadding more like the fusion or a 808 carto and, being 2.0 ohm and on the Darwin you can choose how cool a vape you want. The 801 is blissful because of the circumference of the tube...these have that circumference but they're dual coils, which means they're intended to be LR so if you're going for cool you might not like them.

So you have used these new 801 dual coils on the Darwin? What watts do you set it on and do they reduce the battery run time considerable?
 

Sewknitty

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Well...and don't think I'm wimpy, okay? :lol: I'm no longer a big fan of blastoid vapes. For the 2ohm I start at 6 and move up from there, depending on the juice and usually settle around 8.something. For comparison, I'm vaping my standard menthol juice in a dual coil reading 2.4 ohm at 6.7 and enjoying it...a lot! I've gone a lil past 10 with the 2.5's depending on the juice.
 

wv2win

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Well...and don't think I'm wimpy, okay? :lol: I'm no longer a big fan of blastoid vapes. For the 2ohm I start at 6 and move up from there, depending on the juice and usually settle around 8.something. For comparison, I'm vaping my standard menthol juice in a dual coil reading 2.4 ohm at 6.7 and enjoying it...a lot! I've gone a lil past 10 with the 2.5's depending on the juice.

I like a good throat hit. I vape my 2.8 resistence 801 cartos at 8.5 -8.8 watts on the Darwin. So I would assume, that with the 801 dual coils at 2.0 resistence that 6-8 watts would be close to the same?
 

Credo

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I have not tried any 801 dualies yet but they are definately on my next to try list. I have given a few HV 801 atties a try and really love those things! Perhaps the best 'bang for the buck' vaping platform there is. In fact, when folks tell me they need to vape on a serious budget...I steer them towards the 801 with its native cartridges every time for a whole boat-load of reasons.

As for the Smoketech 510 stuff on a Darwin:

I personally prefer the higher resistance ones better on a Darwin (2 Ohm and up). I get much more 'control' or 'range' over the vape temperature. You can really 'fine tune' them in...and get great efficency from 4v up to 5v. It seems to me that the pixie or 'watts' setting with the dualies is a bit different from using single coil stuff. From an 'electronics' standpoint, yes...6 watts is still 6 watts anyway you cut it; however, when it's spread across two HR coils...the amount of vape does nearly double, but the actual vape temps are 'lower' (consider two 40 watt light bulbs compared to a single 80 watt bulb). So...if you like the vape temperature on regular cartos at something like 5 watts...dualies for you might feel really cool until you get up from 8 to 10 watts on Darwin's wheel.
 

NebulaBrot

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Well, I won't to too far out on a limb on the subject of dual coils because I still have MUCH to learn about them. I am NOT an EE and the tech information is complicated. I still hope an EE will jump in here and explain the FACTS.

Dual coils are very different from single coils, and not just because there are 2 coils.

According to this article: How to Calculate Ohms in a Parallel Circuit | eHow.com
However, the incoming and outgoing amperage will always remain the same. The resistance only changes the amperage on the path the resistor is on.

I am assuming (possibly incorrectly) that the amps may be getting split between the coils. I think these coils are each actually higher ohms. I have seen dual coils that meter 2 ohms and others metering 1.5. I have also been "told" (in quotes because I have not yet confirmed the FACTS) that each coil is 3.2 ohms. I do not yet understand how these end up reading 1.5 or 2 ohms on a meter or Darwin. As you can see in the above linked article, the math gets a bit complex and this demonstrates some of the more complex aspects of ohms law (these parts are currently beyond my understanding - but I'll get it eventually, just need more time to study and I have been busy lately).

What APPEARS evident:
- Darwin reads these the same as a multi-meter (e.g. 1.5 or 2 ohms respectively) and supplies/regulates power accordingly. So, on a 2 ohms dual coil carto, my Darwin at max watts (12.7) will only push 5.2 volts and provide amps based on the 2 ohms reading.

- ProVari seems to wrestle with dual coils as well, especially the 1.5 ohms version and (depending on the voltage set) will often produce an Error code which temporarily shuts the device off = preventing vaping altogether (at least until voltage is dramatically lowered - possibly erroring even then {no longer have my ProVari so cannot do further testing})

- Multi-meters, so far, seem unable to distinguish between single coil resistance and dual coil resistance (if there IS a way to get the meters to make this distinction, I have yet to learn how to do it) but the dual coils certainly perform differently. Again, I am starting to think the path of the amps is a contributing factor and we have seen (in other devices using prism batts - tube style - that some batts have sufficient amps to accurately drive certain ohms/volts combos - like AW IMRs - and others provide insufficient amps for the ohms/volts combos resulting in under-load voltage drop-off). Until the dual coils came along, Darwin's batts have been able to accurately push and manage power for anything we throw at it. Darwin is STILL managing power correctly on these dual coils - just based on the ohms reading so it supplies power under the single coil model.

- *** THESE DUAL COILS PERFORM VERY NICELY ON UNREGULATED HIGH VOLTAGES (provided sufficient AMPS are available - in other words using something like the AW IMR batts in all mechanical devices like my GGTB)*** So, while these dual coil cartos are rated at low ohms, they certainly perform much more like higher ohms and seem very happy at HIGH votlage levels. I am using them on unregulated 6 volts and finding they perform very well at this level.

As for the question about the Colossal 801 Dual coil - I have one but have not gotten around to testing it yet. There seems to be some apparent criss-cross (over the last 2 pages in this discussion) about 801 cartos vs 801 dual coil colossal cartos. The basic 801 carto (as seen on NHaler site) is very similar (probably the same) to the Iken Fusion Boge JKY302 carto. This is a single coil carto that has the tube of 510 size (but a bit longer) and a flared out "collar" at the base to facilitate the 801 threading. These also have a different air intake than 801 style attys. 801 style attys have various air-intake holes thru the bottom of the connector (all downward facing).. Each model (801, BE112, 302, 4072) has a slightly different design to the size, shape and placement of the air-intake holes. These create variations in the airflow which most certainly impacts the overall vape experience. The JKY302 (801/fusion) cartos have 2 tiny pin-holes in the SIDES of the wider collar/flare-out for air-intake and appear to otherwise have only the center hole (center of positive connector/terminal) with none of the other 801 style air-intake holes found in the 801 series attys.

From visual inspection of the Colossal Dual Coil - the air-intake appears to be similar to the design of the JKY302 (801/fusion) but these have a tube size much closer to the 801 atty tube. And, of course, these have DUAL COILS so they are bound to function along similar lines to other dual coils. We have also seen that the various filler material inside cartos also impacts the flavor and the denseness with which that filler is packed/wrapped can impact the speed and efficiency of juice wicking to the coils.

So, while this post provides little conclusive factual information, I hope my observations are somehow helpful in your experiments as you compare. The bottom line on these matters, as with ALL vape gear combinations, is that the tech may be interesting to some and/or help with understanding WHY they are experiencing some of the differences. BUT, many may not care so much about the how(s) and why(s). With vaping, it is difficult to take anyone's word for what is "best" as all is so subjective and we each have our own "best/favorites". We can try different gear and combos (and take other peoples suggestions for stuff to try) but in the end - by trial and error - we have to find our OWN "best" for our own preferences. we each like what we like and the how(s) and/or why(s) may not matter so much.

I suggest you try what you can, when you can, and see what YOU like best - then HAPPY :vapor:

:toast:
 
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nanovapr

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- Multi-meters, so far, seem unable to distinguish between single coil resistance and dual coil resistance (if there IS a way to get the meters to make this distinction, I have yet to learn how to do it) but the dual coils certainly perform differently.

I don't think there is a way for any 'normal' multimeter to tell between single or dual coils. It just reads the total resistance. Using the analogy of voltage = water pressure in a pipe and resistance is a sponge stuck in the pipe, a VOM won't know or care how many sponges are in the pipe. In the water example, then amps (or milliamps) can be described as the diameter of the pipe, or the 'volume' of the water.

I'm new to vaping, but have been a techie tinkerer for a long time. It seems that especially in a VV or VW device, that parallel coils would be greatly preferred over series coils, from an electrical perspective. If one coil dies in a parallel configuration, the other coil will still function, and your device could be adjusted to suit, and it still could work. Two resistors in series would be like the very old Christmas tree lights that were in series. If one goes out, everything downstream of them is completely disconnected. Raise your hands, if you're old enough to remember these! :closedeyes:
 
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wv2win

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Good write up Neb. I ordered some of the 801 dual coils because 801's are about 90% of what I use. Have you tried MV's 801 carto's on the Darwin? They do a pretty good job and I like that they have the whistle tip and are the same size as a BE112. I sometimes suspect that some 801 cartos are just 510's with an 801 connector because they vape more like a 510 than an 801.

I have found that the 510 dual coils seem to do better on my 5 volt box mod with high drain batteries than on the Darwin, probably for some of the reasons you outlined.
 

Credo

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I don't think there is a way for any 'normal' multimeter to tell between single or dual coils. It just reads the total resistance. Using the analogy of voltage = water pressure in a pipe and resistance is a sponge stuck in the pipe, a VOM won't know or care how many sponges are in the pipe. In the water example, then amps (or milliamps) can be described as the diameter of the pipe, or the 'volume' of the water.

I'm new to vaping, but have been a techie tinkerer for a long time. It seems that especially in a VV or VW device, that parallel coils would be greatly preferred over series coils, from an electrical perspective. If one coil dies in a parallel configuration, the other coil will still function, and your device could be adjusted to suit, and it still could work. Two resistors in series would be like the very old Christmas tree lights that were in series. If one goes out, everything downstream of them is completely disconnected. Raise your hands, if you're old enough to remember these! :closedeyes:

True all that :) Being such a pack rat, I still have some of those old Xmas lights.
I have one 2 Ohm dualie that one coil died....now it still works, but like a 4 Ohm single coil carto :)
Lucky for me the juice I have in it does really well in this carto...so I'll keep using it till it's no longer a decent vape.

There would not be any advantage that I can think of in having two coils in a series. If it is surface area for vaping you are after, then one 'long coil' would do just as well, and have fewer parts, and be cheaper to make, etc. If the coils get too long...then we're starting need really 'thin' wire...which is going to burn out and stop working much quicker.

So yes, it stands to reason these things are using two high resistance coils in parallel.
I.E.
Two 4 Ohm coils in parallel give a total resistance of 2 Ohms.

Someday in the future we might see them use multiple low resistance coils that use a crystal or something to 'pulse/strobe' or 'alternate' current to each coil really quickly one at a time (more coil to wick surface area = more vapor with fewer wicking issues). This approach could be used to cut down considerably on how many amps the carto would draw to produce higher vaping temperatures...and allow dualies on much smaller batteries. The big question is....would it be enough of a performance boost to be worth the extra cost to do this? Probably not...plenty of really fine single coil options out there :) Eventually we hit a point where the vape is thick enough to fog up a rock concert anyways.......how much is too much?
 
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