The Darwin From Evolv!!!

Status
Not open for further replies.

mwa102464

Resting In Peace
ECF Veteran
Oct 14, 2009
14,447
12,564
Outside of the Philadelphia Burbs, NJ & Fla
Hey all,

I was curious about compatibility of the Bulli with the Darwin, and well just the Bulli in general. I'm not sure where you can purchase it, or what all the different versions are A1, A2, A2-t, A2-tm....it is all very confusing.

If someone could give me a once over on it, and whether it is something to look into for use with the Darwin. Id be much obliged.

aaron

If you go to the Bulli website you can probably get a more in depth knowledge of the Bulli stuff. I have used a couple of them for a while now and just couldn't get a superior vape from them against some other products. The Bulli & Mark-T are very similar and for there price I find them a bit over rated, only way I use mine now are for dripping. I also like the G-tanks set up by far over the Bulli or Mark-T, but again that's a matter of my opinion, others could say differently. The new one out that looks interesting is the " Line " which I would buy over the Bulli or Mark-T all day long. again just my own personal opinion. As far a compatibility the Bulli works on the Darwin and you can close the arm with one small 510-510 adapter maybe with no adapter at all. If you want a comparison to say an HH-357 Atty there isnt one, the 357 smokes the Bulli or Mark-T in performance all day long, again just my own personal opinion.
 
Last edited:

ED-209

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jul 17, 2010
784
323
Florida Panhandle
that thread is so long...i guess i can post in there...but they seem to all be on another level with how they talk about it

i was looking for a brief synopsis but coudlnt find one really

These reviews are pretty thorough:


Scott's review of the Bulli with Regular Tank system and he also does a follow up on the Mega Tank upgrade:

REVIEW OF THE BULLI A2-T REPAIRABLE ATOMISER - YouTube


The below ones are part of a series of DIY atomizers, very in depth, so just check out his user page on YouTube to see all the different ones he discusses:

Repairable Atomiser Head to Head Part 4 - The Bulli A2 - YouTube

Repairable Atomiser Head to Head Part 5 - The Bulli A2-T & A2-TM - YouTube

Hope that helps you out some?
 

Drewsworld

Resting In Peace
Mar 14, 2009
6,394
1,029
New Jersey
www.nhaler.com
Will give the clearos another chance :) I remember that I enjoyed them all the way down to 4,some watts. Where have you seen them in metal? The only ones I've come across in metal are those Giantomizers for the Ego (Which do fit remarkably well on Darwin) but I have never been able to get good taste from them.

New Varying Resistance Dual Coil 510+801 Colossal Cartomizers

Get the higher Ohms for use on the Darwin....Thanks
Drew
 

casualuser

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
May 11, 2011
345
42
NYC
Just got my Darwin last night and it vapes amazing. I just now plugged it in the charger although it still has about half of the battery life left - but nothing happened. If it was charging there certainly wasn't any indication that it was. Is this right? Does the unit indicate when its being charged? Do I need to have the swivel arm in a certain position? can anyone help me out?
 

ED-209

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jul 17, 2010
784
323
Florida Panhandle
Just got my Darwin last night and it vapes amazing. I just now plugged it in the charger although it still has about half of the battery life left - but nothing happened. If it was charging there certainly wasn't any indication that it was. Is this right? Does the unit indicate when its being charged? Do I need to have the swivel arm in a certain position? can anyone help me out?

Check out this thread, very helpful info:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...ything-you-ever-wanted-know-about-darwin.html


Below info was taken from that thread's 1st post:

Question: I don't see a charging light on my Darwin. How do I know it is charging?
Answer: If you look carefully at the charger when you plug the Darwin into it, you will see the green light on the charger dim a bit. It is charging.​
 

NebulaBrot

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
May 6, 2010
1,272
1,014
in the NEBULA
The charge cord that comes with the Darwin is fine and the post is correct about the slight dimming of the green light. I have used the very first Evolv/Darwin charger, that came with my preproduction prototype Darwin, every day since I received it last December and it still works fine.

A couple of months ago, someone posted a link to this product: Dynex™ - Dual USB Universal Wall Charger - DX-UAC22 It has 2 ports and a charge light for each. As Darwin has smart-charge circuitry, it stops drawing current when the charge cycle is complete. The lights on this charger turn red while current is flowing (Darwin charging) and turns green when the current stops flowing (Darwin charge cycle complete). It works wonderfully. Because the battery gauge on Darwin is not perfectly scaled (hangs at full for several hours of use), you similarly cannot be 100% certain the charge cycle is 100% complete by just looking at the battery gauge. Using this charger leaves no questions or uncertainties. And, having 2 ports, you can charge 2 Darwins or a Darwin and a cell phone, etc. I still use my original Darwin charger AND this Dynex. Then again, when you have a back-up for your back-up you NEED 3 charging ports!
:evil:
 

SAX

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Sep 11, 2011
761
531
Austin, TX
The charge cord that comes with the Darwin is fine and the post is correct about the slight dimming of the green light. I have used the very first Evolv/Darwin charger, that came with my preproduction prototype Darwin, every day since I received it last December and it still works fine.

A couple of months ago, someone posted a link to this product: Dynex™ - Dual USB Universal Wall Charger - DX-UAC22 It has 2 ports and a charge light for each. As Darwin has smart-charge circuitry, it stops drawing current when the charge cycle is complete. The lights on this charger turn red while current is flowing (Darwin charging) and turns green when the current stops flowing (Darwin charge cycle complete). It works wonderfully. Because the battery gauge on Darwin is not perfectly scaled (hangs at full for several hours of use), you similarly cannot be 100% certain the charge cycle is 100% complete by just looking at the battery gauge. Using this charger leaves no questions or uncertainties. And, having 2 ports, you can charge 2 Darwins or a Darwin and a cell phone, etc. I still use my original Darwin charger AND this Dynex. Then again, when you have a back-up for your back-up you NEED 3 charging ports!
:evil:

See this is some of the great info you get on here. I know much is subjective but you guy's have tried "A LOT" of things and could you just lead us to the really GREAT stuff for our Darwin's :toast::laugh:Thanks for the post!
 

NebulaBrot

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
May 6, 2010
1,272
1,014
in the NEBULA
Yep thats what I was looking for thank you ED!

NebulaBrot - Is that charger approved for use with the Darwin? Would it have an effect on the warranty? Also what do you use to connect the darwin to the charger?
The "charger" is actually built into the Darwin circuitry so pretty much any mini-USB cable that will plug into Darwin will charge it. To connect the dynex to Darwin, you merely need any standard USB to Mini USB wire. :toast:
 

nanovapr

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Jun 15, 2011
1,013
727
Catatonic State, USA
127.0.0.1
Vaptamist: the higher the better, and the longer your battery life. LR atty/cartos draw more amps, and that is only wasteful of battery power. I haven't tried higher than 3.5 ohm, there probably isn't any good reason to go higher. If you try to go too low, Darwin cuts off in the vicinity of 3 amps. It doesn't err out like some devices, it just limits the current.
 

Rob0506

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 1, 2011
375
339
Renton, WA
Brandon told me on the phone he was running a 6 ohm on his, I don't know where he gets them. I've tried up to 4.5 ohm, but I'm with nanovapr, I think 3.5 is the sweet spot. Higher ohms will give you more fine tuned control of the power, and the fact that I preferred the 3.5 may have more to do with other design elements of that particular atty.

My current fave only comes as high as 3.0, but it seems to have enough control for my tastes.
 

NebulaBrot

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
May 6, 2010
1,272
1,014
in the NEBULA
Curious - how well does the Darwin work with very high res atomizers? I mean in the 4.5 - 5.5 ohm range. Can it still pump 12+ watts through these? If so, is there any tangible reason to use these compared to attys in the 3 to 3.5 ohm range?

The answer to your first question is yes. According to Ohms Law, as long and sufficient Amps are available to drive any given combo (Which Darwin DOES provide):

Voltage (E): 7.9 Volts
Current (I): 1.6 Amps
Resistance (R): 5 Ohms
Power (P): 12.7 Watts

For the second part, this is a matter of subjective personal preference. While electronically speaking watts are watts, some will argue (me included) that there IS a difference in vaping lower resistance watts vs higher resistance watts. IMHO, LR watts heat much faster. Even tho electronically watts are watts, in vaping watts express as heat and we are essentially cooking the juices. The various ingredients in the juices can each react/respond differently to various heat levels. VG burns at lower temps than PG - for example. Fruity flavors can respond differently to heat than tobacco flavors, etc. Some juices are more complex combinations of various flavors. If you try a combo flavored juices, especially in a standard or higher Ohms atty/carto (2.2Ωs or higher), try setting your Darwin to 7-7.5 Watts, then vape (with everything else exactly the same) at 8.5-9 watts, and then again at 9.5 thru 10 watts. Obviously the temperature of the vapor and TH will change but you may also notice that at various levels different flavors become more dominant. For example, I used to vape a variety of tobacco menthol juices. I would often find that in the 7.5 watts range the tobacco flavors were more dominant, in the 8.5 range the mixture came thru more well balanced and at the higher 9+ range the menthol became increasingly more dominant.

For me, LR gear seems to heat more quickly - too quickly (for my preferences). I often multi-hit and find that LR can give me a burnt taste too quickly. Also, as LR does heat the coil faster, if I use cartos and multi-hit, the coil can heat faster than the carto can wick the juice (especially when carto gets down to half full or less) and can begin to burn the filler material more quickly. Once carto filler starts to burn, the carto will never taste the same - this is why some post about cartos starting to taste badly after a few re-fills (they are waiting too long to refill and starting to burn the filler.

So, to complete your answer, I prefer to vape 3Ωs range at 8.5 watts much more than LR 8.5 Watts. You can experiment for yourself, and with Darwin this is super easy. Just make sure you are keeping the model of atty or carto the exact same - only using various Ωs levels and also keep the watts setting and juice exactly the same too. When making any comparison of any single component in vaping - to isolate that one component you MUST keep ALL other variables as consistent as possible. So, keeping watts fixed, model of atty (510, 901, 801, etc.) the same, use the same juice and various Ωs rated attys/cartos (same brand too - E.g. Boge 510 carto at 2Ω vs Boge 510 carto at 3Ωs). Going to 5+Ωs may or may not produce a difference discernible enough for you to appreciate the additional difficulty and potential added cost of using finding and buying those super high Ωs levels. As I said - all subjective and very personal preference oriented. As with EVERYTHING vaping related, there is no "better/best"; there is only YOUR "better/best"

Hope this proves helpful.
 
Last edited:

vaptamist

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Oct 14, 2011
3,447
6,530
FL
Great post - thank you so much!

I think I'll stick in the 3 - 3.5 range for some backwards compatibility with my other devices. I can definitely see the higher ohm attys and cartos heat up differently. When I throw a LR on the Darwin or provari, I barely get any use out of it before having to give it a break. Things generally seem to taste better on the higher resistance attys at higher wattages as well. I may try out a 5 ohm atty down the road some time just to see.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread