So, how does it vape? Any leaks? When do you think you'll have the first prototype ready? It looks awesome...
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Yah! and we only can go to 50mph here (legally)!
GREAT WORK! So . . . the big question is ...how does it vape?
Yah! and we only can go to 50mph here (legally)!
GREAT WORK! So . . . the big question is ...how does it vape?
Aha! I see Clyde already beat me to the $64 trillion dollar question!
Considering that carlos has posted a video about what to do if you flood the juicebox atty, I'm wondering if this is a design improvement over it.
At first, I assumed you simply came across the upon the same type of feeding mechanism that he used in his mod. (Considering you can't see exactly how his is hooked up in his final design.)
Now, if the MB (minibox) MJB, whatever, can't flood, I'm wondering if this is a better design. Or maybe if it is a happy accident using the rn4081 atty.
Also, I'm presuming you can direct drip on it without mixing the flavors like on the jb. Am I correct?
You are a wizard, by the way, Peter.
At first, I assumed you simply came across the upon the same type of feeding mechanism that he used in his mod. (Considering you can't see exactly how his is hooked up in his final design.)
Now, if the MB (minibox) MJB, whatever, can't flood, I'm wondering if this is a better design. Or maybe if it is a happy accident using the rn4081 atty.
Also, I'm presuming you can direct drip on it without mixing the flavors like on the jb. Am I correct?
You are a wizard, by the way, Peter.
Where did you get the idea it cannot flood? I believe it is much more prone to flood in fact any auto-feed is more prone to flooding.
I believe if we had a non-flooding atty anywhere it would be big news.
Well I went to Hobby Hub tonight and got some tubing! Unfortunitely they were closing and I didn't get to browse much so I'll have to go back soon!
For my day job I use AutoCAD and I actually drew up all my boxes/switches/batteries/leds/atty/cart/etc so that I can play with positioning. I don't normally do much 3D work so I drew everything 2D which works but I might need/want to go back and do everything in 3D for even more accuracy. Being able to try different configurations quickly on the computer is very helpful to try different options.
For my day job I use AutoCAD and I actually drew up all my boxes/switches/batteries/leds/atty/cart/etc so that I can play with positioning. I don't normally do much 3D work so I drew everything 2D which works but I might need/want to go back and do everything in 3D for even more accuracy. Being able to try different configurations quickly on the computer is very helpful to try different options.
Hi All
And before you ask, I have not vaped it as a fully working mod.
I need the tubing and bottle dry, so filling it is not an option at the moment.
But I did drip some 36mg menthol from NuCig. 18650 fully charged and reading 4.2-4.3v
Great Hit, Plenty of vapour.
Two points I would like to get across.
1. nekkidnorman. If you are building this type of mod. When you solder the 1/16th brass pipe
into the battery connector, obtain some plumbers flux an coat the entire brass pipe.
It will help the electrical solder, flow down and seal the joint.
2. I don't know how the JB bottle pump works but in the video, Carlos had to pump the
bottle several times to flood the atty. This suggests to me that his bottle has a separate air intake.
So when he releases the bottle, air in drawn back into the bottle from a second location,
thus re-inflating the bottle without sucking back the liquid.
(Again I'm just guessing).
My design is different. You must push firmly on the bottle (ONCE).
The harder you push the more liquid enters the atty. But because there in (NO) other air intake. When you
release the pressure the bottle wants to re-inflate and the only way it can is to draw back
any excess liquid from the atty and tube.
So you could say this mod IS designed to flood the atty.
Time will only tell if the system is sound.
Oh one last thing Clyde has asked if there was any leakage.
A very small amount seeped out of the attys air intake (outside the box).
This could be reduced or stopped by more accurately sanding the brass pipe to make a better
fit into the atty.
Not too tight though as on one of my tests the 1/16th brass tube was too tight and when I unscrewed the atty.
It pulled the positive brass ring and rubber grommet out of the atty.
I totally destroyed it. (Be careful)
Back Soon
Peter....................
And before you ask, I have not vaped it as a fully working mod.
I need the tubing and bottle dry, so filling it is not an option at the moment.
But I did drip some 36mg menthol from NuCig. 18650 fully charged and reading 4.2-4.3v
Great Hit, Plenty of vapour.
Two points I would like to get across.
1. nekkidnorman. If you are building this type of mod. When you solder the 1/16th brass pipe
into the battery connector, obtain some plumbers flux an coat the entire brass pipe.
It will help the electrical solder, flow down and seal the joint.
2. I don't know how the JB bottle pump works but in the video, Carlos had to pump the
bottle several times to flood the atty. This suggests to me that his bottle has a separate air intake.
So when he releases the bottle, air in drawn back into the bottle from a second location,
thus re-inflating the bottle without sucking back the liquid.
(Again I'm just guessing).
My design is different. You must push firmly on the bottle (ONCE).
The harder you push the more liquid enters the atty. But because there in (NO) other air intake. When you
release the pressure the bottle wants to re-inflate and the only way it can is to draw back
any excess liquid from the atty and tube.
So you could say this mod IS designed to flood the atty.
Time will only tell if the system is sound.
Oh one last thing Clyde has asked if there was any leakage.
A very small amount seeped out of the attys air intake (outside the box).
This could be reduced or stopped by more accurately sanding the brass pipe to make a better
fit into the atty.
Not too tight though as on one of my tests the 1/16th brass tube was too tight and when I unscrewed the atty.
It pulled the positive brass ring and rubber grommet out of the atty.
I totally destroyed it. (Be careful)
Back Soon
Peter....................
Thanks for the all the advice! BTW, what kind of glue is safe to use when it will/might come into contact with the liquid? Just plain old super glue ok of silicon sealer or ??? I'm actually thinking about making my own bottle (well, mating the top and bottoms together from a longer bottle - that way I can customize the bottle length) and am not sure if the glue matters.
I think I have all my supplies I'm going to need (except maybe some capacitors...) so I hope to get started on a mod like yours sometime in the next week or so (I'm notoriously slow as I suck at soldering and very new at modding so I measure and think everything through 8 times before doing anything!). Hopefully I'll get my current mod (my first 5v!!!) done in the next couple days and then I'll start the fabrication of the "box" for a juice mod like yours! I'm thinking I'll go with a 18650 + booster + atty + bottle = about the maximum size I want it.
Most 2 part epoxys are inert when cured, which makes a good bond and is safe if ingested.
Epoxy putty is great for molding and filling gaps. Silicone is great as a sealer
but not too good under pressure. Good to use silicone to make liquid and air tight then
strengthen the joint by coating with an epoxy.
I have also considered making my own liquid bottle.
A square bottle would hold a great deal more liquid within a small area.
I have also considered using an aquatic air valve as a bottle-refilling nozzle.
Liquid could be injected into the bottle via a filling cap on the side of the mod
and the valve would stop it coming out when the bottle is under pressure.
Combine this with a recharging stand and you would never have to open the mod again.
I may not build any of these but a good brain storming session is good for the soul.
Cheers
Peter.............
Epoxy putty is great for molding and filling gaps. Silicone is great as a sealer
but not too good under pressure. Good to use silicone to make liquid and air tight then
strengthen the joint by coating with an epoxy.
I have also considered making my own liquid bottle.
A square bottle would hold a great deal more liquid within a small area.
I have also considered using an aquatic air valve as a bottle-refilling nozzle.
Liquid could be injected into the bottle via a filling cap on the side of the mod
and the valve would stop it coming out when the bottle is under pressure.
Combine this with a recharging stand and you would never have to open the mod again.
I may not build any of these but a good brain storming session is good for the soul.
Cheers
Peter.............
I've been reading on a thread on 510 atty resurrection in the modder's section. Some people have reported bringing a dying or dead 510 atty back to life as a dripper by detaching either the wick or bridge. People on the thread are speculating that the cause of atty failure is the wick getting gummed up with dried juice, etc. to the point that it no longer conducts juice to the heating element.
So, I'm wondering....:
1. Carlos has mentioned in his videos that his atty has been remanufactured to take out some of the engineering fault points that cause regular ones to fail.
2. Could his special sauce be simply taking out the wick, and et cetera?
3. Would the minibox (mb) (I'd love to find a way to make it an 'MGB'.) work with such a restructured atty?
4. Could you use a battery adapter instead of sacrificing a battery to do the mod? Would this allow for you to possibly mod other atty types without having to buy and sacrifice whole kits?
5. I've got some seemingly dead 510's and a couple of 801 and 901 attys that may be resurrected. Would you be able to use them to see if you could modify your design? I'm thinking a larger 801 atty may be easier to fit the copper pipe into, though it may be harder to put it into your very small box.
6. BTW, the link to the thread is below. Great work, Peter!
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/polls/56499-510-atomizer-resurrection-mod.html
So, I'm wondering....:
1. Carlos has mentioned in his videos that his atty has been remanufactured to take out some of the engineering fault points that cause regular ones to fail.
2. Could his special sauce be simply taking out the wick, and et cetera?
3. Would the minibox (mb) (I'd love to find a way to make it an 'MGB'.) work with such a restructured atty?
4. Could you use a battery adapter instead of sacrificing a battery to do the mod? Would this allow for you to possibly mod other atty types without having to buy and sacrifice whole kits?
5. I've got some seemingly dead 510's and a couple of 801 and 901 attys that may be resurrected. Would you be able to use them to see if you could modify your design? I'm thinking a larger 801 atty may be easier to fit the copper pipe into, though it may be harder to put it into your very small box.
6. BTW, the link to the thread is below. Great work, Peter!
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/polls/56499-510-atomizer-resurrection-mod.html
Clyde, you do know you can buy batt adapters from Madvapes (and other places?) so you don't have to sacrifice anything.
Petercro, brainstorming is addictive!!! I had a thought earlier (I'm sure there's lots of flaws b/c I'm so uneducated about this stuff but trying to learn!)
So my thought... wet the wick... drain any excess so no "standing/flooding" liquid. Couldn't a liquid reservor be attached under the atty (sorta like you've done) but with a larger, more free flowing tube. A slight up-down shake coats the wick and then gravity causes excess liq to drain back to the reservor. When not in use the tube connecting the reservor and atty is crimped to prevent unwanted (in your pocket) travel shaking to flood atty. To handle air flow without leakage could some sort of breathable waterproof fabric be used? Maybe I should cut up a jacket?!?!
I'm prolly WAY off base and sound like a fool but if someone doesn't correct me I won't learn!
Petercro, brainstorming is addictive!!! I had a thought earlier (I'm sure there's lots of flaws b/c I'm so uneducated about this stuff but trying to learn!)
So my thought... wet the wick... drain any excess so no "standing/flooding" liquid. Couldn't a liquid reservor be attached under the atty (sorta like you've done) but with a larger, more free flowing tube. A slight up-down shake coats the wick and then gravity causes excess liq to drain back to the reservor. When not in use the tube connecting the reservor and atty is crimped to prevent unwanted (in your pocket) travel shaking to flood atty. To handle air flow without leakage could some sort of breathable waterproof fabric be used? Maybe I should cut up a jacket?!?!
I'm prolly WAY off base and sound like a fool but if someone doesn't correct me I won't learn!
Clyde
Many thanks for the offer I have PM'd you my address.
Thanks for the link I will read it later tonight.
If attys are dying because of a clogged wick rather than a broken coil, wouldn't it be
a good idea to be able to dissolve the excess residue.
In the UK if you want to dissolve anything you could use Nitromors.
If the nitromors were thinned with a solvent and the atty was left to stand overnight.
Then washed in running water to remove all excess residue would this work?
I have no idea, so if there are any chemical brainyacks out there, please post your opinion.
Thanks.
Or if the answers are already posted please link me.
Many thanks for the offer I have PM'd you my address.
Thanks for the link I will read it later tonight.
If attys are dying because of a clogged wick rather than a broken coil, wouldn't it be
a good idea to be able to dissolve the excess residue.
In the UK if you want to dissolve anything you could use Nitromors.
If the nitromors were thinned with a solvent and the atty was left to stand overnight.
Then washed in running water to remove all excess residue would this work?
I have no idea, so if there are any chemical brainyacks out there, please post your opinion.
Thanks.
Or if the answers are already posted please link me.
nekkidnorman
A different concept. Like it. the 4081 is out, the base hole in the atty is too small.
although other attys might be usable, I have no experience with them.
But the idea I really like is your coat with lots of holes in it.
Gortex allows liquid and air through in one direction but not the other.
We should be able to utilise it in a mod somehow.
A different concept. Like it. the 4081 is out, the base hole in the atty is too small.
although other attys might be usable, I have no experience with them.
But the idea I really like is your coat with lots of holes in it.
Gortex allows liquid and air through in one direction but not the other.
We should be able to utilise it in a mod somehow.
Yeah, but why keep the wick, which is supposed to wick the juice from the cartridge on top of the atty to the heating element in a design that does not have, and will not use, a cartridge?
Warning
Just noticed that not all atty base holes are the same size.
I have just destroyed another new atty.
If you building this design than when you file/sand the 1/16th brass pipe to fit into the attys base hole.
MAKE SURE you test it's fit on several atty makes.
As my second mod battery connector has just pulled out the positive brass ring from the brand new atty.
I had to de-solder it and re-size the brass tube.
Just noticed that not all atty base holes are the same size.
I have just destroyed another new atty.
If you building this design than when you file/sand the 1/16th brass pipe to fit into the attys base hole.
MAKE SURE you test it's fit on several atty makes.
As my second mod battery connector has just pulled out the positive brass ring from the brand new atty.
I had to de-solder it and re-size the brass tube.
I'm not sure about this but I think the wick would not only wick liquid but hold an amount of liquid.
Removing it might force you to re-pump alot more often.
I still have not had chance to read the wick link posted by Clyde. But I will.
Peter
Removing it might force you to re-pump alot more often.
I still have not had chance to read the wick link posted by Clyde. But I will.
Peter
The people on the resurrection thread are saying that the gutted attys serve just fine for dripping. It has been a day or two since I've read it; correct me if I'm wrong. I'm presuming that the lack of a wick doesn't hinder its use in that regard.
As for the different sized atty connections, I'd rather choose a design that would fit one atty design well rather than one that fits several poorly. If I was going to sell the mods, I'd make sure to say that it would only fit attys sold by petercro.com, no other attys are covered. Or give details and/or a link to whomever makes the best attys for the device.
I'll mail you a selection of 510s, along with a 901 and 801 to see if your pipe fits better today or tomorrow (Oklahoma has another ice storm on the way.). I suspect the 801, being the largest of the bunch, may serve your needs better (though you may have to cut the casing down on it).
As for the different sized atty connections, I'd rather choose a design that would fit one atty design well rather than one that fits several poorly. If I was going to sell the mods, I'd make sure to say that it would only fit attys sold by petercro.com, no other attys are covered. Or give details and/or a link to whomever makes the best attys for the device.
I'll mail you a selection of 510s, along with a 901 and 801 to see if your pipe fits better today or tomorrow (Oklahoma has another ice storm on the way.). I suspect the 801, being the largest of the bunch, may serve your needs better (though you may have to cut the casing down on it).
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