The Innokin iTaste VV V3 owners group

[brookj1986]

Thank you, David, Brook, and Speed.
It's pretty obvious I learn in miniscule steps.

After getting super-disgusted with my ability to taste any juices (and trust me, I've tried it ALL), last night I thought about how delicious they were in my earlier vaping days. I also remembered that I was using higher PG/VG ratios, but I had decided the irritation I had was caused by that. I went to the spare room and pulled some out. Well! The irritation may come back, but it seems to be cracking some taste buds loose. We'll see.

I would suggest avoiding dripping... You'll get amazing flavor, but then everything else will taste VERY muted.

Hey, we all start learning with small steps. After a while, they can build to a vast trove of knowledge, some of which may be useful.

Higher PG will carry more flavor and give more TH. And keep in mind that tastes change as we go down this path

I've found I need to cycle my flavors, otherwise the taste bud party I get from my favorite flavors, really begins to fade... quickly. If i cycle properly, they all taste fantastic each and every time.

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[AndriaD]

I wish there was a diagram with all the parts of a coil labelled; I've been taking my coils out of their bases for a few weeks now, really looking at the coils while I dry burn them, but I *still* don't know what the insulator is, where it is, what it looks like, or even how to get the coil truly apart for the rebuilding, so I can see what the coil attaches to.

I know someone will probably give me a link to a video, but I don't feel like closing down every last thing I have open on the computer, including all my open tabs in Chrome, and maybe even have to reboot everything to free up enough RAM, just so I can see a video without it jumping and freezing and going dead while the audio goes on -- isn't there a PICTURE of all this stuff?

I'd truly love to know what an insulator is, where it is, and what that coil attaches to; I need to go thru things mentally before I attempt them physically, but not knowing what an insulator is, or what the coil is attaches to, is really hampering my efforts to visualize this whole process.

*hair pulling out*
Andria

 

[brookj1986]

I wish there was a diagram with all the parts of a coil labelled; I've been taking my coils out of their bases for a few weeks now, really looking at the coils while I dry burn them, but I *still* don't know what the insulator is, where it is, what it looks like, or even how to get the coil truly apart for the rebuilding, so I can see what the coil attaches to.

I know someone will probably give me a link to a video, but I don't feel like closing down every last thing I have open on the computer, including all my open tabs in Chrome, and maybe even have to reboot everything to free up enough RAM, just so I can see a video without it jumping and freezing and going dead while the audio goes on -- isn't there a PICTURE of all this stuff?

I'd truly love to know what an insulator is, where it is, and what that coil attaches to; I need to go thru things mentally before I attempt them physically, but not knowing what an insulator is, or what the coil is attaches to, is really hampering my efforts to visualize this whole process.

*hair pulling out*
Andria

This should help. It all goes together as pictured. Insulator is at the bottom between the pin and the wall. It's circled dating cut this off. Obviously, don't do that. It's just nice as it's already circled.

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[Storm52]

Or in simpler terms, it's that rubber gasket thingy at the bottom of the coil assembly, where the connecting pin (looks like a screw but it doesn't) is held in place.

 

[AndriaD]

Or in simpler terms, it's that rubber gasket thingy at the bottom of the coil assembly, where the connecting pin (looks like a screw but it doesn't) is held in place.

Ok, great! How do I get it apart? I have one coil that's completely dead, I could fool around with this a little... and what does the wire that forms the coil attach to?

Andria

 

[ccv1]

Ok, great! How do I get it apart? I have one coil that's completely dead, I could fool around with this a little... and what does the wire that forms the coil attach to?

Andria

Just grab the pin at the bottom with your finger nails or a pair of tweezers and give it a pull. Next pull out the rubber "insulator." The "chimney" which is the top piece with the other rubber cup can be wiggled back and forth and pulled off with a little force. The coil will have 2 legs. If you look while taking the bottom apart one leg goes between the body and the insulator, the other leg between the insulator and the pin.


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[DavidOck]

This should help. It all goes together as pictured. Insulator is at the bottom between the pin and the wall. It's circled dating cut this off. Obviously, don't do that. It's just nice as it's already circled.

Sent from my Galaxy Note 3 via Tapatalk.

Going from left to right...
Positive pin
Insulator / grommet
base
coil and wick
flavor wick
chimney
boot? cup? top seal?

Nice pic - and I agree, don't cut the flange off the insulator. It helps to maintain pressure and electrical contact.

 

[AndriaD]

Ok, I will get that dead coil and see if I can get it apart.

I know there's a bunch of you coil rebuilders here, so here's a question regarding the resistance. I was talking to some guys in the GA vapers thread about this, and told them I wanted a coil Ω between 2.2-2.4 -- and was told, 11 or 12 wraps with 30ga wire will give me that resistance. However I was talking to JeremyR in the Sigelei thread about batteries, and he enlightened me a little about "amp draw" and said that higher resistance coils or tops would cause less amp draw; so now I'm thinking I should try for a coil resistnce somewhere between 2.5 Ω and 3Ω -- would that be less wraps, or more? Does the resistance get higher the more wraps you use?

Thx!
Andria

 

[ccv1]

Ok, I will get that dead coil and see if I can get it apart.

I know there's a bunch of you coil rebuilders here, so here's a question regarding the resistance. I was talking to some guys in the GA vapers thread about this, and told them I wanted a coil Ω between 2.2-2.4 -- and was told, 11 or 12 wraps with 30ga wire will give me that resistance. However I was talking to JeremyR in the Sigelei thread about batteries, and he enlightened me a little about "amp draw" and said that higher resistance coils or tops would cause less amp draw; so now I'm thinking I should try for a coil resistnce somewhere between 2.5 Ω and 3Ω -- would that be less wraps, or more? Does the resistance get higher the more wraps you use?

Thx!
Andria

Yes resistance gets higher with more wraps. Also higher resistance coils take longer to heat.


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[AndriaD]

The coil will have 2 legs. If you look while taking the bottom apart one leg goes between the body and the insulator, the other leg between the insulator and the pin.

Hmm... well I got the pin out, and the rubber, I guess it's the insulator? I do see two wires poking out, but I'd need a microscope to see where they were before I pulled out the pin and the rubber bit... how do you fat-fingered men do this at all?

When you say "the body"... do you mean the entire chunk of metal that all this sits inside? How on earth do you get that tiny wire to go between the insulator and the pin? It seems like the pin needs to be inside the rubber thingie to be able to put it back, so how do you get a wire inside that?

All you folks are really a foot tall, with fingers the size of pine needles, right?

Andria

 

[AndriaD]

Yes resistance gets higher with more wraps. Also higher resistance coils take longer to heat.

Ok, good info. So I think that for these small tanks, which I'll continue using on the vv3's, I probably should stay with my original thought, 2.2-2.4Ω. For a big cartotank that I'll be using with the Sigelei, I should get the 3+ Ω cartos, and if I get a hypertank, get coils with higher Ω, and then rebuild them with maybe 13 or 14 wraps...? I'm getting the Sigelei so I can use 18650 batteries, for day-long trips to my folks' house, so battery life is my main interest there, hence the higher Ω for less amp draw. with these vv3's, I'll keep using the small tanks, and 2.4 or 2.5 Ω coils seem to work best in those, and I can run that on pass-thru, so battery life isn't such a big deal.

Andria

 

[Storm52]

Andria, the only issue that comes up with rebuilding the bottom coil attys is the small area available between the slots on the base itself. Too long a coil (too many wraps) could be touching both sides of the metal base, causing a short. The easiest way to start building, is to take 32 ga kanthal and wrap it around silica wick (3mm) about 6 times will bring you around 2+ Ω. You aren't building a micro coil, where the coils are tightly wrapped against each other, but rather duplicating what you see when you pulled the flavor wick off.
Larger ga, smaller numbers in 30 or 28 ga will provide less resistance at the same # of wraps.

 

[AndriaD]

Andria, the only issue that comes up with rebuilding the bottom coil attys is the small area available between the slots on the base itself. Too long a coil (too many wraps) could be touching both sides of the metal base, causing a short. The easiest way to start building, is to take 32 ga kanthal and wrap it around silica wick (3mm) about 6 times will bring you around 2+ Ω. You aren't building a micro coil, where the coils are tightly wrapped against each other, but rather duplicating what you see when you pulled the flavor wick off.
Larger ga, smaller numbers in 30 or 28 ga will provide less resistance at the same # of wraps.

Well, the wire I have is 30ga... it would mean another $4 and another week's wait to get some other kind. Right now I don't have $4 to spare, and I really don't feel like waiting another week, or actually 2 wks since it'll be a week till I have $4 to spare for yet more wire.

I have what I have. So apparently I need at least 11-12 wraps for the 2.2-2.4 ohms I want for the small tanks.

Anyway, I just put all the pieces of that coil back in the little box I was storing the coil in. Until I get some better reading glasses -- next week -- there's really not much point in trying to proceed. I can barely see the wires sticking out the bottom, and I have no earthly idea how you'd get a wire between the rubber and the pin, since it looks like you need the rubber ON the pin, just to stick it back in. I had planned on maybe going to the workshop Thursday night, but without the better glasses, I think it would be mostly a waste of time. And even if I could see the wires better... still can't figure out how you'd get a wire between the rubber and the pin...

Andria

 

[brookj1986]

Well, the wire I have is 30ga... it would mean another $4 and another week's wait to get some other kind. Right now I don't have $4 to spare, and I really don't feel like waiting another week, or actually 2 wks since it'll be a week till I have $4 to spare for yet more wire.

I have what I have. So apparently I need at least 11-12 wraps for the 2.2-2.4 ohms I want for the small tanks.

Anyway, I just put all the pieces of that coil back in the little box I was storing the coil in. Until I get some better reading glasses -- next week -- there's really not much point in trying to proceed. I can barely see the wires sticking out the bottom, and I have no earthly idea how you'd get a wire between the rubber and the pin, since it looks like you need the rubber ON the pin, just to stick it back in. I had planned on maybe going to the workshop Thursday night, but without the better glasses, I think it would be mostly a waste of time. And even if I could see the wires better... still can't figure out how you'd get a wire between the rubber and the pin...

Andria

When I'm not at work, I'll try to do a step by step with photos as I need to rebuild tonight. It'll be a few (3-5 hours).

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[AndriaD]

When I'm not at work, I'll try to do a step by step with photos as I need to rebuild tonight. It'll be a few (3-5 hours).

Ok, thank you!

I don't actually mind if the coils come out at a lower Ω, so if I need less wraps to make it fit, like maybe 10 or so, that would be ok, since I started running my iTaste on vw mode instead of vv -- no more burnt-taste hits, since the brilliant iTaste is figuring out for me what the voltage should be.

The resistance of whatever topper I'm using will be more of an issue with that Sigelei, and then only when I'm planning one of those day-long trips where I want really long life out of the 18650 I'll be using; apparently the higher the Ω then the lower the amp draw, which apparently saves battery life. I don't really know all this, I'm just going on what was told to me yesterday by JeremyR in the sigelei thread. I'm planning on getting an IBTanked for that Sigelei, so I know now to get the higher Ω cartos for it; I may also get a Hypertank, so I'll know that for longer bat life, to use higher Ω coils in that. If I'm just sitting around at home, no big deal either way; I'll have access to other batteries and the charger, so bat life won't be a huge issue.

Thx!
Andria

 

[brookj1986]

Ok, thank you!

I don't actually mind if the coils come out at a lower Ω, so if I need less wraps to make it fit, like maybe 10 or so, that would be ok, since I started running my iTaste on vw mode instead of vv -- no more burnt-taste hits, since the brilliant iTaste is figuring out for me what the voltage should be.

The resistance of whatever topper I'm using will be more of an issue with that Sigelei, and then only when I'm planning one of those day-long trips where I want really long life out of the 18650 I'll be using; apparently the higher the Ω then the lower the amp draw, which apparently saves battery life. I don't really know all this, I'm just going on what was told to me yesterday by JeremyR in the sigelei thread. I'm planning on getting an IBTanked for that Sigelei, so I know now to get the higher Ω cartos for it; I may also get a Hypertank, so I'll know that for longer bat life, to use higher Ω coils in that. If I'm just sitting around at home, no big deal either way; I'll have access to other batteries and the charger, so bat life won't be a huge issue.

Thx!
Andria

I'll even use 30 gauge. Was going to try 29 gauge for the first time.

It'll take a bit of time to get quality photos and make it easy to follow... But it will be done!

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[ccv1]

It seems like the pin needs to be inside the rubber thingie to be able to put it back, so how do you get a wire inside that?

All you folks are really a foot tall, with fingers the size of pine needles, right?

Andria

I know you said you couldn't do video right now but if you do get the opportunity to watch one, this is where I learned to make my coils. It was a major help.

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=xrvwOf13U-s




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[gerrymi]

many clearo heads will last 3-4 weeks. And with a good cleaning and soaking will get a few more weeks. I batch wash after I get about 10 built up. I personally don't bother with rewicking or dry burning. To me the heads are disposable.

What solution do you batch wash, soak and clean with?

may I ask about the fix to my clearos? Think I swaw something about it a while back

This...A Simple Fix It: Pin To Post using Cloth Thread for contact Clearomizer to Mod or Batteries ?

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...thread-contact-clearomizer-mod-batteries.html

 

[DavidOck]

If you're putting an 18650 in your Zmax, I wouldn't worry too much about battery life. They come in ratings from 2000 to 3000 (and maybe more since I last got any), vs. the 800 of the VV3. One, fully charged, should last you a full day with anything other than sub-ohm. And easy to carry a second in a suitably non-conductive container.

 

[AndriaD]

I know you said you couldn't do video right now but if you do get the opportunity to watch one, this is where I learned to make my coils. It was a major help.

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=xrvwOf13U-s

Ok; I closed everything, closed all my tabs in chrome except 2, and now I have 2180 MB free memory... maybe that's enough so it will run without all that jumping and freezing.

Andria