What outer dia do you need 18mm? The only thing I can see being an issue is 1mm cross section o rings wouldn't provide much of a battery seat. However maybe a 1mm thick 18mm dia washer in plastic or derlin possibly?
The Kick by Evolv--Coming to Super-T!
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What outer dia do you need 18mm? The only thing I can see being an issue is 1mm cross section o rings wouldn't provide much of a battery seat. However maybe a 1mm thick 18mm dia washer in plastic or derlin possibly?
How about electric tape at the bottom of the battery with a round hole cut in the middle?
I measured the gap on the 18500, it is roughly .050, so a thinner oring under the battery would not work nor would black tape, keep in mind the oring under the battery serves two functions, one, to insulate and two, to act as a spring keeping constant pressure on the battery to top post connection which is even more critical now that you have the kick in there due the extra two electrical connections. Trust me fellow ecfer's, the only truly effective solution is a shorter kick, different cap or longer body, with the cap being the most cost effective at this point. To hold you over, the Oring placed on the top cap is effortless and effective.
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I'm probably getting ahead of myself here since there's not too much information about the specs of the Kick, but can you guys clarify (or rather, speculate) what the best setup would be when using the Kick? I've got enough supplies to last me until the Kick comes out (that is if it comes out within the next couple of months), but it's almost time for me to restock on attys and cartos.
From what I have read (and seen on the videos), the Kick's power output will range between 4-10 watts (although I'd be lying if I said that I wouldn't mind it being closer to 12 watts). The way that I understand the physics of it all, it would be better to pair the Kick with a standard resistance atty/carto. I'm guessing that using a low resistance atty/carto would result in too high of an amperage draw, and that would probably result in the protection circuit to kicking in. That's assuming that the Kick can't handle that high of an amperage draw. But assuming that it can handle the draw, would using an LR atty/carto result in shortened battery time (vaping time) and a shortened battery life (due to being overworked)? If this is true, then I'd be better off stocking up on SR stuff. Again, I'm just guessing here so hopefully someone with better knowledge of circuitry can chime in.
From what I have read (and seen on the videos), the Kick's power output will range between 4-10 watts (although I'd be lying if I said that I wouldn't mind it being closer to 12 watts). The way that I understand the physics of it all, it would be better to pair the Kick with a standard resistance atty/carto. I'm guessing that using a low resistance atty/carto would result in too high of an amperage draw, and that would probably result in the protection circuit to kicking in. That's assuming that the Kick can't handle that high of an amperage draw. But assuming that it can handle the draw, would using an LR atty/carto result in shortened battery time (vaping time) and a shortened battery life (due to being overworked)? If this is true, then I'd be better off stocking up on SR stuff. Again, I'm just guessing here so hopefully someone with better knowledge of circuitry can chime in.
From a very reliable source on another supplier's sub forum : "I have been using one of these early prototype modules and can happily say it is performing extremely well. I recommend using 2.2Ωs and higher to achieve the greatest range of vapable watts The Kick can deliver. While you can use lower Ωs, 2.2 Ohm and higher attys/cartos will offer access to the fullest vapable range. Also, The Kick can ONLY be used with IMR batteries."
I hear what your saying David, I was thinking of a small watch like gear instead of the screw, then a control ring with another small watch like gear on it to turn the other gear attached to the kick ( wishful thinking of course
) thus making a control type ring that would be attached to the top cap or right under it, this was just my thoughts on this. As well as just a cap that the kick fit snugly into if this control ring wasn't able to be made by you. I will say that all this time though I had a feeling you where going to come up with some type of special top cap for the kick all along, just a funny feeling I had, but I still have it 
I agree and understand this in theory, however I still run HH-357 Atty's and other LR Attys from time to time up to around 9Watts on my Darwin and it performs quite nicely, but I do enjoy my 3.5ohm Attys best with these electronics. For some reason or other though, no matter what Atty/Carto you put on these electronics it makes them run in High Performance mode like nothing else I have used to date, the constant monitoring of the resistance is just a special part of this thing and this little kicker unit should do well with whatever you decide to put on the precise I believe also, especially with Davids special contact material points, either way looking very much forward to this, gonna make all the precise units run in extra high performance Mode for sure Vapn
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Excellent. So when the Kick and up grade parts for the P18 are in I get to fill up another SuperT cart.
I guess they pushed back the by Christmas release? That is a bummper hopefully it is soon.
I have to say, the possibility of a wattage controlled precise + is the most amazing device I could have imagined. I am starting the penny saving now!
I'm willing to wait... i would prefer the Kick be sold to the public without fault, rather than sent back due to failure.
My P+18650 works just fine without one. having the kick is just a plus....
BAZINGA!
My P+18650 works just fine without one. having the kick is just a plus....
BAZINGA!
For anyone who's interested....The Kick works in the P+500....Just as David said. I'm using the oring at the top and it really doesn't bother me one bit.
For anyone who's interested....The Kick works in the P+500....Just as David said. I'm using the oring at the top and it really doesn't bother me one bit.
A little trick/tip, If you use a #12 Oring (which is only .070 thick and then stretches out even thinner) it will sit flush with the body and not stick out like a thicker oring as pictured. I'll include one with all my Kicks i send out.
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I didn't use the #12....I used the thicker o ring....It made kind of a place for my forefinger to sit nicely....Gave me a better grip.
I totally agree. I watched a video that was from early December, and the Evolv guy said that they were just about to send out their second version for beta because they made a few small changes from the initial batch of betas. They were really trying to push it out by Christmas/New Years, but they also said that they don't want to rush it too quickly. I think that they're definitely taking the right approach here, and I'm sure that it will show in the final product.
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