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fright88

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Just came across s/thing like this.. had no idea otherwise I would've ordered it before everyone ran out. (I have a roughstack this would go purrrfect with.)
Does anyone know if there's an expected re-stock soon?

Things may have changed since then but Brandon mentioned in his interview on VTT Talk that these are easy to mass produce so there should not be large delays between shippments. So I wouldn't expect more then a couple weeks wait till we start seeing more in stock at the various vendors. That being said I don't think the vendors are wanting to post any kind of dates in case there are delays.
 

Curtisdon1

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Thanks for the replies guys :)
I've added an an extra washer to the pole and it's it's more hit than miss now, it's still far from perfect though and the clicking still occasionally happens but I really think its due to a bad connection, I may just give up using the kick in my precise + and stick it in my don it's a shame because I love the precise,
Also that battery life with a 18350 is pretty feeble,
I suppose I could get a 18650 precise +
 

snork

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I was having some frustrating misfiring issues on my 18500 also, especially when I was experimenting with one thin o-ring under the battery, no o-ring under the top cap and one washer. Now that I have gone to David's method - one thick o-ring under the battery, one thin o-ring around the cap, and two washers it hits every time. And hits well too.
I wonder why the o-ring configuration seems to make such a difference?
 

Curtisdon1

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I was having some frustrating misfiring issues on my 18500 also, especially when I was experimenting with one thin o-ring under the battery, no o-ring under the top cap and one washer. Now that I have gone to David's method - one thick o-ring under the battery, one thin o-ring around the cap, and two washers it hits every time. And hits well too.
I wonder why the o-ring configuration seems to make such a difference?

I'm currently using one thick o-ring under the battery and 2 washers on the switch, the top cap screws all the way (a little tight but all the way)in so I didn't think of using one under the top cap, could this make a difference do you think do you think? I thought it wasn't making a proper connection and that's why I have to push the switch very hard sometimes,
 

snork

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I'm currently using one thick o-ring under the battery and 2 washers on the switch, the top cap screws all the way (a little tight but all the way)in so I didn't think of using one under the top cap, could this make a difference do you think do you think? I thought it wasn't making a proper connection and that's why I have to push the switch very hard sometimes,
Try it. All I know was that when I had the top cranked all the way in *without* an o-ring the misfiring was worst. Maybe putting too much pressure on the Kick freaks it out?
 

Curtisdon1

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I have another theory. Perhaps when there is too great a pressure on the Kick/battery the Kick gets a little cockeyed in the tube from sitting on the battery nipple by its little bottom screw, and breaks or creates an intermittent connection by the negative spring.

That would defiantly explain why sometimes I had to press the bottom button really hard for the precise to fire
 

Roi

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I was experiencing misfires and found myself pushing the button harder than necessary. I solved all my problems with a little cleaning and TLC. First, I completely dis-assembled my Precise +18650 and with dishwashing liquid, hot water, and a toothbrush, I scrubbed and cleaned my mod inside out, both end caps, button, tube, threads and all. After drying everything out thoroughly, I gently sanded the inside of the tube (where the side spring of the kick makes contact) with some 400grit sandpaper and then applied a *very* thin coat of NoAlox there and then used a tissue to wipe most of it away. Next came the Kick. I used an ink eraser and gently cleaned the two main contacts and the outside edge of the little spring and then did the NoAlox treatment just like the inside of the tube. (The NoAlox is to prevent the hasty return of any corrosion.) Finally, I used the eraser on both ends of the battery. (Everybody forgets that the battery contact points need love too.)

I put it all back together and haven't had a mis-fire in several days and I'm back to being soft on the button too. Well... No misfires until the battery is exhausted and needing a recharge anyway. It sounds like overkill but it worked for me. I use NoAlox on the threaded parts too. The only thing I don't use it on is the Rhodium plated parts. It's not needed there. The trick with NoAlox is that if you can see it, you used waaay to much.

The Kick is the best thing to come along since shirt pockets and sliced bread but, dirt and corrosion are it's weakness. Keep everything clean and and corrosion free and it "kicks" like a mule.

(Edit) I forgot to mention that the battery seems to last longer between recharges now as well. I guess that's because I don't seem to need to hold the button down as long now. Not sure why but, the battery charge *does* seem to last a bit longer now.
 
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rojo

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The Kick works great in my P+ 18500. I did wipe off the contacts with a napkin with a little hand sanitizer soaked in yesterday, but that was more because the contacts were starting to look dirty than poor performance. It would be nice if the contacts were plated in stainless or nickel silver or something more resistant to tarnishing, though.
 

forcedfuel50

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To isolate problems, run whatever brand unit you own without the Kick to verify your unit is working fine without it. If you then put the kick in and it starts misfiring, its a good bet the Kicks contacts are in need of cleaning.

They Kicks contacts are made of brass, and will oxidize rapidly. Clean both the top and bottom and the side ground. You may want to apply a dab of a petroleum based anti oxidant like, noalox, vaseline, deoxit gold etc. too after cleaning.

I hope that in the Future Evolv will perhpas plate the contacts with Nickel or the like to fight corrosion.
 
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