Using The Kick in the P+650 with the imr 18490 also needs an oring spacer. The large o-ring that came with it works perfect. I really don't even notice it.
Sent from Samsung Galaxy Nexus via Tapatalk
Last edited:
The Kick by Evolv--Coming to Super-T!
- Thread starter forcedfuel50
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
Using The Kick in the P+650 with the imr 18490 also needs an oring spacer. The large o-ring that came with it works perfect. I really don't even notice it.
Sent from Samsung Galaxy Nexus via Tapatalk
Using The Kick in the P+650 with the imr 18490 also needs an oring spacer. The large o-ring that came with it works perfect. I really don't even notice it.
Sent from Samsung Galaxy Nexus via Tapatalk
Thank you for the picture Cuseguy!
Regarding the top cap, The 18650 PrecisePlus shouldn't need an oring on the top cap. Are you using the AW brand IMR 18490? If so, Maybe look down inside the tube and i suspect you may have multiple orings in there (did you previously have the unit set up for IMR 18650?)
If you switch to one .100 thick oring under the battery, you won't need to use any orings on the top cap as it will seat flush and all the way down (if the .100 is a bit tight, you can switch to the .070), but i've sent out three now with the .100 thick oring and they worked great and no oring is needed on the top cap.
Last edited:
Oh wow! I thought there was only one o-ring down there! But sure enough, there was one more that snuck by me! Now it fits perfectly flush...awesome!Using The Kick in the P+650 with the imr 18490 also needs an oring spacer. The large o-ring that came with it works perfect. I really don't even notice it.
Sent from Samsung Galaxy Nexus via Tapatalk
Thank you for the picture Cuseguy!
Regarding the top cap, The 18650 PrecisePlus shouldn't need an oring on the top cap. Are you using the AW brand IMR 18490? If so, Maybe look down inside the tube and i suspect you may have multiple orings in there (did you previously have the unit set up for IMR 18650?)
If you switch to one .100 thick oring under the battery, you won't need to use any orings on the top cap as it will seat flush and all the way down (if the .100 is a bit tight, you can switch to the .070), but i've sent out three now with the .100 thick oring and they worked great and no oring is needed on the top cap.
Sent from Samsung Galaxy Nexus via Tapatalk
I dig the finish on your tank.
what this self done?
if so what grit paper is needed for this finish?
and what material is the caps on the tank?
i have some thick aluminium that i wanted to use to make caps for a rebuildable tank, but never made the time to do it. if i can mimic the finish, maybe it will light the fire under my ... to get it done.
Buzzkilla, I don't want to derail here, but there is more info in the recent posts in the Super-T "Juice Tank" thread.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/super-t-manufacturing/229112-juice-tank-thread.html
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/super-t-manufacturing/229112-juice-tank-thread.html
Ohhhhh I know we are getting closer but 
Hey all. I was wondering a few things... is the wattage limit going to stay at (11 I think) or will it be upped in the production model. I just tried 6v with a 3ohm carto (12w) and was blown away. I'd love to see at least this. Also, how thick is the kick? I was playing with my mod and I think I can get just shy of a half inch with a little modification. It would be awesome if I could fit my 18650s in there with it. Thanks!
When you say you tried 6V, are you talking about stacking two LiFePO4 batteries or true 6V on a VV mod?
The reason why I ask is because if you were vaping with two stacked 3V batteries, you were not exactly getting 6V under load. You were closer to 5.5V loaded or slightly less with a 3.0 ohm carto, so you were vaping closer to 10 watts rather than 12 watts. The last I heard is that the Kick will produce max of 10 watts which should be plenty for most vapers. Just my
Stacked rcr123. The carto metred at 2.6ohm. My calculations with that voltage show 11.6watt
Sorry, watts not ohms
Also, I keep hearing that IMR batteries will be needed. My math shows a worst case scenario (10w with 1.5ohm atty/carto) will pull 2.58a. Can't aw li-ion push that?
Sorry, watts not ohms
Also, I keep hearing that IMR batteries will be needed. My math shows a worst case scenario (10w with 1.5ohm atty/carto) will pull 2.58a. Can't aw li-ion push that?
Last edited:
My current prototype from Top post to bottom is 17.67mm. Of course that can and probably will change somewhat on the production model.
The problem with the protected li-ion cells is the voltage drop or "droop" when you pull that much current from them. When that "drooped" voltage begins to hit 3.2 volts when you push the button, the kick cuts out to protect the battery. The reason the IMR high drain battery is preferred is that there is less voltage drop at those current levels. (I hope this helps)
Thanks Roi. After finally reading the battery sticky I think I'll be sticking to safer chemistry batteries regardless, I'm pretty attatched to my teeth. As common as Li-ion batteries are in electronics I never figured they were so unstable
By "safer chemistry" battery, I assume you mean AW IMR batteries. The protected batteries are *not* the "safer chemistry". That's why they have the protection circuit added. The IMR *are* the manganese "safer" chemistry. Note the key word in "safer Chemistry" is safer not safe. They *can* be damaged and potentially *can* "vent" but not nearly as likely to do it nor nearly as violently as... say... a protected cell can if (for some quite possible reason) the cell gets shorted and the little protection circuit fails. Don't forget that the Kick does everything the little protection circuit does and if you are using the AW IMR batteries, you will have the best of all possibilities. i.e. Safer chemistry *and* a protection circuit.
The guys at Evolv know exactly what they are doing when they recommend the use of the high drain IMR batteries with the Kick.
Trivia: I is the letter that stands for lithium M is for manganese and R is for rechargable. 18650 means that the cell is 18mm in diameter and 65mm long. In the case of an ICR the same holds true and the C stands for cobalt. Last but not least, in IFR the F is for Ferrite. Clear as mud, huh?
All three chemistrys have their strengths and weakness' and if you are going to use a Kick, you'd better listen to the experts at Evolv and use the battery that's best suited to the job at hand. When I get mine, I'm gonna feed it with AW IMR batteries because it is, hands down, the best (and safest) battery for the job.
Last edited:
These are presently my favorite cells, safety and performance of IMR at a larger capacity Panasonic CGR18650CH 2250mAh Li-ion Battery [Panasonic CGR18650CH] - $8.76 : Led Flashlight-International Outdoor Store
all batteries are safe, if used appropriately.
The guys at Evolv only designed the kick for IMR to prevent USER error.
The Darwin uses Li-Po, supposedly the most violent if the chemistry family. I still havent seen a Darwin grenade...
If you care for the batteries, charge them appropriately & store them properly. one is just as safe as the next.
Li-po, Li-fe, li-ion & IMR batteries will all go boom if abused.
The IMR is just more idiot proof...
I would prefer performance and capacity , over redundant safety.
The guys at Evolv only designed the kick for IMR to prevent USER error.
The Darwin uses Li-Po, supposedly the most violent if the chemistry family. I still havent seen a Darwin grenade...
If you care for the batteries, charge them appropriately & store them properly. one is just as safe as the next.
Li-po, Li-fe, li-ion & IMR batteries will all go boom if abused.
The IMR is just more idiot proof...
I would prefer performance and capacity , over redundant safety.
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
