Not sure what happened with mine. Might have just been coincidence, but as it's the only thing I've got that is/was kickable...nor sure what's going on.
The Kick by Evolv--Coming to Super-T!
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Not sure what happened with mine. Might have just been coincidence, but as it's the only thing I've got that is/was kickable...nor sure what's going on.
Some on other threads are saying the wire from the fire button to the atty connector in the Bolt is too small and sometimes can burn out when using the kick...needs to be a heavier sized wire....hope this helps....
Well, it wouldn't exactly HELP, lol. But it would certainly be an explanation and I sincerely appreciate you letting me know. I wonder if I can crack that bolt open and check/maybe repair.
I have a Bolt and I have had no problem using the "Kick"it works fine in mine. You just have to make sure your contacts are clean. You might need a spacer for the battery and kick connection.
I have a bolt thats kicked also, i know that when i recieved the kick, it was preset at its maximum watt setting. Before setting it in the bolt for the first time, i zero'd it back, then set it to 8.5 watts, works wonderful.
Ive also read alot of threads about people having problems from running a kick to hard, or stacking in them. I second the opinion about the cheap wireing. Hopefully your bolt didnt take its last vape. They can be easily fixed though if your handy with a sodering gun.
Ive also read alot of threads about people having problems from running a kick to hard, or stacking in them. I second the opinion about the cheap wireing. Hopefully your bolt didnt take its last vape. They can be easily fixed though if your handy with a sodering gun.
I have been using the kick for a couple of months now and it's great.
However, I find myself replacing the 18500's even before my regular tank
of juice is finished. I typically go through 2 batts for one tank and I vape at 8.5W.
I'm thinking I need new batteries or is that a normal rate of usage
for the kick?
Does anyone go through batteries just as fast?
However, I find myself replacing the 18500's even before my regular tank
of juice is finished. I typically go through 2 batts for one tank and I vape at 8.5W.
I'm thinking I need new batteries or is that a normal rate of usage
for the kick?
Does anyone go through batteries just as fast?
My AW IMR 18500s are a few months older than my 18350s and were previously used heavily on a ProVari, and I find that my 18350s now last about as long if not longer than my 18500s with the Kick. The best way to find out for sure is by trying and comparing to some new batts in my opinion.
Also, I find that the Kick shuts off between 3.55V and 3.6V unloaded with my AW IMR 18350s while with my older 18500s it shuts off between 3.7V and 3.8V unloaded. Seems that due to greater age and longer usage my 18500s can't handle as much voltage under load anymore resulting in premature shutting off.
Thanks for the reply 
Yes, that is exactly what's happening. My batts actually cut off at 3.8v-4v
Looks like it's time to buy new ones.
Yes, that is exactly what's happening. My batts actually cut off at 3.8v-4v
Looks like it's time to buy new ones.
Thanks for the reply
Yes, that is exactly what's happening. My batts actually cut off at 3.8v-4v
Looks like it's time to buy new ones.
Yea, it sounds like it...
One more thing... Just make sure to keep both brass contact points on the Kick shiny and clean, including the ground spring. I've noticed that the battery longevity drops when those brass contact points start tarnishing, probably due to increase in resistance.
I'm sure you already know this but make sure to use high drain batteries, preferably AWs. Good luck and keep us informed if you notice any major changes.
Mabuhay!
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Keeping those contact points clean is a habit now for me. 
And, yes, I do use AW batts.
Will give you feedback as soon as I get my batts, which is in a couple of days.
Thanks again Borat
And, yes, I do use AW batts.
Will give you feedback as soon as I get my batts, which is in a couple of days.
Thanks again Borat
Too many variables to compare to anyone else.
The Kick is designed to cut-off at 3.2 volts under-load which often translates to around 3.6 unloaded (multimeter). That "under-load" is where all the variables are sort of hidden. The resistance of your attys/cartos (LR demands more amps and will drain faster), conductive efficiency of your device, age and maintenance of the batteries, etc.
I rarely use just one device but when I was a pre-release tester for the kick, I forced single device use for testing purposes. I tend to vape about 5ml/day on average. At 8.5 watts using 2.8Ω cartos - I tested the Kick on P+ 18650, SB and Empire devices. Using brand new AW IMR 18490 batteries, I averaged about 5 to 6 hours of vaping before the Kick gave me the stutter vape signal it was ready to cut-off. Time is not an accurate measurement either as aggregate button time is an extremely relevant factor (someone who averages 2 minutes of aggregate activation/button time per hour will get more "hours" than someone who averages 4 minutes). I never actually measured ml(s) vaped per charge cycle but if I had to guess it would be in the 2 to 3 ml range (again, resistance will be a variable factor here too). So, as I said, there really is no way to compare to anyone else. Age of batts, number of charge cycles, batts left in hot cars, overdrained (can happen in non-cutoff devices), etc all can impact the charge cycle life of a batt.
You can try different IMR batts (preferably new ones), if not using a "smart" charger - do not leave them on the charger overnight and try to take them off the charger relatively soon after the light goes green, try a different device (preferably one listed on the Evolv website on the kick page), different resistance, etc.
Now I am using Kick with 18650 IMRs and, as I said, I use multiple devices each with a different juice. I have not drained one to stutter vape in a day yet and use a freshly charged batt each day (I throw the previous one on a charger when I get up and remove it when the light goes green - but I also use a smart charger as an additional safety factor).
Hope something in here is helpful.
@Nebula: Getting nowhere near 5-6 hours. My set-up is exactly as you stated.
P+18650 using 18500 batts with a 2.5mil tank with 2.9ohm boge.
I go through three tanks a day, so 7.5 mils of juice.
I use time because my batts were quite new when I started using the kick a couple months back.
At that time, max I got out of an 18500 was half a tank or 2.5 mils.
Also, I use a pila charger and some of my more high end RC chargers so over charging
isn't an issue for me.
Storage of batts can also be ruled out since I never leave any batts to be subjected to
high temps.
P+18650 using 18500 batts with a 2.5mil tank with 2.9ohm boge.
I go through three tanks a day, so 7.5 mils of juice.
I use time because my batts were quite new when I started using the kick a couple months back.
At that time, max I got out of an 18500 was half a tank or 2.5 mils.
Also, I use a pila charger and some of my more high end RC chargers so over charging
isn't an issue for me.
Storage of batts can also be ruled out since I never leave any batts to be subjected to
high temps.
Not sure what to tell you JP. As I said, many many variables so... Kicks (from all I can tell from the posts - and I read most of them) just work. Time is still not a relevant comparison to anyone else due to the aggregate button time factor (no 2 people will have the same aggregate button time and no way to KNOW any other's to even try to compare - not even realistic to accurately measure your own button time per hour and may change from one hour to the next...). I'd think, if you want to compare a diff set-up to your previous experiences then mls per charge cycle would be your best scale (assuming same resistance and watts setting).
There have been very few posts of issues and none like you are describing. Best I can suggest is try a diff set of batts, perhaps a diff device and see if you have any changes. If not, then email Evolv with FULL details including exact device, exact batts (with brand, etc) and every detail. They will tell you from there. My guess is that if the kick is working correctly (accurately providing regulated power/watts), then the issue is probably not the kick. As far as I know, there is nothing in the kick that would allow it to work and just reduce batt life. Perhaps you just got some batts from a bad batch, old stock or some other issue. Wish I could be of more help.
BTW, you may be using AW IMR 18490/500 but if not - you might want to try those as that is what I was using. IMRs are absolutely required. if you are using any other brand, try the AWs. Also, if you got your AW IMRs from SuperT - you should be fine. if you got them anywhere other than a reputable vape vender (like SuperT) or a reelable place like Lighthound - there are many counterfits out there. Alibaba is notorious for counterfits.
There have been very few posts of issues and none like you are describing. Best I can suggest is try a diff set of batts, perhaps a diff device and see if you have any changes. If not, then email Evolv with FULL details including exact device, exact batts (with brand, etc) and every detail. They will tell you from there. My guess is that if the kick is working correctly (accurately providing regulated power/watts), then the issue is probably not the kick. As far as I know, there is nothing in the kick that would allow it to work and just reduce batt life. Perhaps you just got some batts from a bad batch, old stock or some other issue. Wish I could be of more help.
BTW, you may be using AW IMR 18490/500 but if not - you might want to try those as that is what I was using. IMRs are absolutely required. if you are using any other brand, try the AWs. Also, if you got your AW IMRs from SuperT - you should be fine. if you got them anywhere other than a reputable vape vender (like SuperT) or a reelable place like Lighthound - there are many counterfits out there. Alibaba is notorious for counterfits.
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BTW, and FWIW, my 5 mls/day at 5 to 6 hours per charge cycle was a full 3 batts to get my 5mls/day. 15 to 18 hours of vaping per day is my norm to get my 5 mls.
At 7.5 mls/day I imagine you'd be at 4 or 5 batts/day to be at the same rate as mine were.
Edit: 7.5 mls is 50% more juice than I vape per day so that means 50% more aggregate button time in a day (considering we use the same Ωs and same watts). That implies you will use 50% more batts (charge cycles) than I did.
At 7.5 mls/day I imagine you'd be at 4 or 5 batts/day to be at the same rate as mine were.
Edit: 7.5 mls is 50% more juice than I vape per day so that means 50% more aggregate button time in a day (considering we use the same Ωs and same watts). That implies you will use 50% more batts (charge cycles) than I did.
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Thank you for the info Nebula
Yes, I am using AW IMR's from Super T.
I guess I just vape a lot
I usually bring 6 batteries with me when I leave the house as I feel
the Kick in a Precise is the best tasting for the juice I use.
Really have no problems with the Kick except I saw that post of yours
and it made me think I wasn't getting the right amount of vaping time from
one battery. I'll try out my other mods with my other Kick units and see if
there's a difference.
I'm now leaning towards the possibility that maybe I just fire more often.
Thanks again
Yes, I am using AW IMR's from Super T.
I guess I just vape a lot
I usually bring 6 batteries with me when I leave the house as I feel
the Kick in a Precise is the best tasting for the juice I use.
Really have no problems with the Kick except I saw that post of yours
and it made me think I wasn't getting the right amount of vaping time from
one battery. I'll try out my other mods with my other Kick units and see if
there's a difference.
I'm now leaning towards the possibility that maybe I just fire more often.
Thanks again
Can anyone provide their experiences/feedback on using a kick in a P+ 18500 vs P+ 18650?
I know battery life is based on a lot of factors but is the overall length of time before swapping batteries that significant between the IMR 18350 vs 18490?
Also in the tutorial David has on YouTube he shows that the top cap on the P+ 18500 doesn't screw down flush when using the kick so didn't know if that's still the case or if a smaller washer can now be used in the tube to allow the cap go be flush?
I've read a lot of feedback and it seems a lot of people really like the P+ 18500 better in terms of size, feel, etc. But was hoping to get everyones thoughts/input about the 2 above questions based on their experiences.
Thanks for the help.
I know battery life is based on a lot of factors but is the overall length of time before swapping batteries that significant between the IMR 18350 vs 18490?
Also in the tutorial David has on YouTube he shows that the top cap on the P+ 18500 doesn't screw down flush when using the kick so didn't know if that's still the case or if a smaller washer can now be used in the tube to allow the cap go be flush?
I've read a lot of feedback and it seems a lot of people really like the P+ 18500 better in terms of size, feel, etc. But was hoping to get everyones thoughts/input about the 2 above questions based on their experiences.
Thanks for the help.
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