The Kick by Evolv--Coming to Super-T!

[9ball_AJ]

I can't say anything on the P+18650, but the P+500 works pretty well with the kick. The cap screws almost all the way down before you feel some resistance, but the last turn or so there is resistance to get it to screw down all the way. This is with one thin O ring under the battery and no washers under the negative screw post.

Performance wise, when I have it set to 8 watts, it literally blows any other device i have out of the water, including my Provari. I don't know why, but I get ridiculous clouds off that setup using a 3 ohm carto in a carto tank. Battery life wise, I only get about 3-4 hours tops out of the 18350. I do get some cutting out here and there far before the battery life has diminished, and it is not the kick's pulsing low battery indicator. Not sure why, but it hasn't been so much as to be an issue for me. I probably just need to tighten the negative screw post, and I am sure a bit of noalox on the threads on the bottom and top caps wouldn't hurt either. Other than the battery life, this is my favorite setup.

 

[snork]

Here's my experience and opinion, ED-209.
The 18500 is my favorite sized P+. I don't use the Kick in it anymore though. The battery life was too short. I only Kick my P+18650 these days.
In all honesty I think, for me, the P+ line aren't the most suitable mods to Kick unless other circumstances exist, the use of a rebuildable for example. If I'm vaping something standard I get much longer and enjoyable vaping with my P+s unKicked.

 

[ED-209]

Thanks so much for the help and info.

I'm looking for a fail safe backup for my regular ProVari as well as I'll be getting some rebuildable atty's soon and my Vari is only a V1 and heard they sometimes have issues with rebuildable atty's.

I went ahead and got a kick, just for kicks waka waka waka, and just wasn't sure if I should go the 18650 or 18500 route and then which top, flat or slant. I think more than likely it will be just an at home or outisde device as I have the mini vari for out and about.

 

[Riverboat]

Thanks so much for the help and info.

I'm looking for a fail safe backup for my regular ProVari as well as I'll be getting some rebuildable atty's soon and my Vari is only a V1 and heard they sometimes have issues with rebuildable atty's.

I went ahead and got a kick, just for kicks waka waka waka, and just wasn't sure if I should go the 18650 or 18500 route and then which top, flat or slant. I think more than likely it will be just an at home or outisde device as I have the mini vari for out and about.

So heres my take, since the Kick is such a tight fit in the Precise line, it rubs against the threads when inserting and removing it, Im not a fan of the combo. Im Like Snork I run my P+18 un-kicked... I also have 2 Provaris V2 versions. You need to get your V1 upgraded. What do do with that Kick? Well I odered a Shockwave for mine. It will have a smooth bore sleeve to insert it into...
As far as the Precise+ goes flat or slant? Flat.

 

[ED-209]

So heres my take, since the Kick is such a tight fit in the Precise line, it rubs against the threads when inserting and removing it, Im not a fan of the combo. Im Like Snork I run my P+18 un-kicked... I also have 2 Provaris V2 versions. You need to get your V1 upgraded. What do do with that Kick? Well I odered a Shockwave for mine. It will have a smooth bore sleeve to insert it into...
As far as the Precise+ goes flat or slant? Flat.

Thanks so much for the info and help....I have read some about the Shockwave but really wanted something all mechanical that has the rhodium contacts on the switch, unless it is\does?...but just haven't read enough about the specs, etc. and not quite sure how the switch works or if it uses wires, etc....guess I better start reading

 

[9ball_AJ]

Thanks so much for the info and help....I have read some about the Shockwave but really wanted something all mechanical that has the rhodium contacts on the switch, unless it is\does?...but just haven't read enough about the specs, etc. and not quite sure how the switch works or if it uses wires, etc....guess I better start reading

I'm also curious how it is able to use the kick as I know it states it does but wondering if it would rattle since the diameter of the 26500 is a little larger than the 18500?

The ShockWave comes with a sleeve for using the kick with a 26500 battery. It should be a pretty sweet performer IMO.

 

[burns_erin]

I have a Bolt and I have had no problem using the "Kick"it works fine in mine. You just have to make sure your contacts are clean. You might need a spacer for the battery and kick connection.

Spacer?

I have a bolt thats kicked also, i know that when i recieved the kick, it was preset at its maximum watt setting. Before setting it in the bolt for the first time, i zero'd it back, then set it to 8.5 watts, works wonderful.
Ive also read alot of threads about people having problems from running a kick to hard, or stacking in them. I second the opinion about the cheap wireing. Hopefully your bolt didnt take its last vape. They can be easily fixed though if your handy with a sodering gun.

I started it out at the lowest setting...

 

[forcedfuel50]

Kicks are back in stock!

 

[ED-209]

. What do do with that Kick? Well I odered a Shockwave for mine. It will have a smooth bore sleeve to insert it into...

Well I took ur advice, order placed now unless good ole Dave puts up some more scratch and dent 18650's I will just get the Precise Strata and have that as my full mechanical mod or that's what I keep telling myself.

Thanks,

 

[9ball_AJ]

Well I took ur advice, order placed now unless good ole Dave puts up some more scratch and dent 18650's I will just do the Precise Strata as my full mechanical mod or that's what I keep telling myself.

Thanks,

Yeah, I remember when the P+16340 was the only mod I was ever going to need... We can all dream!

 

[andel11]

Spacer?



I started it out at the lowest setting...

I'm sorry, I meant a magnet contact from battery to the "Kick", not a spacer.

 

[burns_erin]

I'm sorry, I meant a magnet contact from battery to the "Kick", not a spacer.

Ok, I'll freely admit to still being clueless. Could I get pointed in the right direction?

 

[andel11]

They are called Rare-Earth Magnets

 

[9ball_AJ]

Ok, I'll freely admit to still being clueless. Could I get pointed in the right direction?

Here is a link: Magnetic Battery Spacers - Avid Vaper

 

[revolver]

Question for the tech-guys/ geeks/ etc...

If I used my Precise+ unkicked with a 1.5 LR atty... What would be the Watts reading if I started with a fresh AW IMR !? And Which is the max wattage output of the Kick !? Meaning, which would be more powerful kicked or unkicked LR 1,5 with a fresh batt, and what's the difference !?

 

[NebulaBrot]

The question you are asking is not as concrete as it sounds. Ultimately, it really is not about the numbers but it IS about what YOU enjoy. Comparing to anyone else - you will learn what they enjoy. As you already know, juices, atty Ωs, models, designs, cartos, juices, devices, voltages/watts, etc. change any one component or variable and the vape experience changes. Even with ALL else 100% consistent, change the VG/PG ratio in a juice and the vape experience changes - to some extent. So finding what YOU like best is really the issue and the answer.

All that said, here are some numbers:
A freshly charged IMR (based on my charger and readings) usually comes off the charger right around 4.16 volts. But even this can change from one batt to another, chargers, number of charge cycles, how far the batt is drained between charges, if left on a non-"smart" charger for too long and other "user" oriented variables. That fresh charge number will not stay there for long as the batt is designed to operate at 3.7 and will likely drop to that level in a very short amount of use.

So (using an on-line ohms law calculator):
4.16 volts and 1.5Ωs yields 11.53 watts and needs 2.77 amps to drive that level (which is an easy accommodation for an IMR)
After minimal use it will drop to 3.7 - so: 9.12 watts demanding 2.46 amps
As the batt drains, the volts and resultant watts will continue to decline to some extent.

On Kick, it will remain consistent but the boost circuit demands more amps and LR also demands more amps so the combo will result in a slightly shorter use time per charge cycle. I do not have exact numbers on the impacts of the boost circuit but I believe it to be in the range of averaging approx 10% further reduction. Of course the Kick also has a low-charge cut-off at a very safe level (very conservative) and unregulated (non-kick) would let you drain the battery more = more vape time but with declining power delivery).
So back to the on-line ohms law calculator:
10 watts (kick max setting) with 1.5Ωs yields 3.87 volts and 2.58 amps.

So, on the freshest charge off the charger, you may enjoy a slightly hotter vape at 11.5 watts but it will not stay there for long. Most of the batt cycle will be at 3.7 volts and in the 9 watts range. On kick, you will get the 10 watts under load - consistent and maintained - but it will cost you some of the vape time per batt charge cycle.

There is no direct scaled correlation between .1 volts increments to .1 watts increments but I have done some various calculations using various Ωs levels and various voltages levels and they seem to average around three .1 watts settings for each .1 volts setting. We cannot draw any conclusions form those rough (very rough) averages but it can be used somewhat as a guide thru the numbers.

Bottom line, use the numbers as a rough guide to experiment with ranges. Then forget the numbers, find what YOU like best and enjoy it.

Hope this is somehow helpful.

 

[revolver]

Excellent Answer !!! Much appreciated, NebulaBrot !!! Thank You.

=)

 

[revolver]

One more question, NebulaBrot:

What would be the difference between having a Kicked unit at, say 8 Watts, with a 1.5 LR Versus a SR 2.5 !? Because, if I understand correctly what I have been reading the LR would translate into a shorter battery life, right? So, then, if wattage/ power output is the same, why would some prefer LRs!? Could there be some difference... !? What type of?

Thanks in Advance.

 

[NebulaBrot]

Again, another subjective question. I can point to many who will ONLY use LR. I am not an LR fan in any way. I have done comparisons using same makes and models attys just diff Ωs and adjusting voltages to maintain same watts. Done the same with cartos and done both on Darwins (side-by-side) with watts fixed. Consistently I prefer the higher Ωs and voltages for same watts. I just think the vape is smoother and richer and my juices like it better. I use more VG and VG burns at a lower temp. I also often multi-hit and that can heat the coil more/faster resulting in a slightly burnt taste from LR (which heat faster).

As for the amps diff, yes, SR will use less maps at the same watts level and result in slightly more use time per charge cycle. But with kick boosting, the difference is not overly substantial. When you compare batt life on unregulated 3.7 using LR against SR you will probably see more of a diff - especially if not using IMR batts as they will likely suffer voltage drop-off (using LR) to satisfy ohms Law to the level of available amps from the batt. Voltage drop-off is not the safest way to vape as can overtax the batteries. Many do it but I would advice against it.

 

[revolver]

For the most part, I wanted to check the technicalities; i.e. figures; the theory and science behind the differences... However, this was actually to compare and get to see; try to possibly understand the difference in experience I may be getting... So, your input was very clarifying...!

I am an LR guy myself -in general- and kinda feel LRs translate into a more "violent", agressive sort of, experience. The level of detail to your posts is great and you have really solved all my doubts. Thanks, Big Time!