If your kick is cutting off early when he battery still has a good amount of charge left, check for possible weak or high resistance points in the circuit (where the kick grounds to the body, spring on the kick, spring on the mod, etc). Sometimes a good cleaning with contact cleaner on a q-tip or wire-brushing all contacts will help. I notice this helps on my reo when it starts cutting out around 3.8v, just needs a good cleaning. I do this every couple of weeks.
The Kick by Evolv--Coming to Super-T!
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Ugh, one of my Kicks just died on me. No matter what I am only getting about 3.2 to 3.4 volts out of it. Smells kind of funny too. I just purchased this one about two weeks ago. Hopefully Evolv will hook me up with a replacement pretty quick. Up to this point, both of mine have been working great. As long as you keep your P+ button assembly clean and run a scratch pad on the contacts for the Kick, she works like a dream.
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Nope. I came home, picked it up, and started tooting. It felt real weak to begin with and I couldn't remember the last time I had changed bats on it so I swapped out and got the same thing. I know that you are suppose to get some click firing when your bats get low but on both of my Kicks they just misfire more and more often until I change out the batteries. I thought that was what was happening here. Kind of noticed a smell in the tube when I opened it the first time but not really strong. The second time I opened I could definitely smell burnt silicone. I checked my batteries on my Fluke meter and one was at 3.9 and the other at around 4.2. I then put my home made in line meter in and was only getting around 3.2 to 3.4 volts under load with the Kick in. My inline works great, it's a small hobby box with a 510 female on top, 510 male on bottom, a switch in the middle for onload/offload testing, and some speaker terminals attached inline so I can use my Fluke 179 meter to test everything. I am def getting less at the atty then what the battery is outputting. I hadn't used the device all day and my house was empty till I got home so I know nobody else played with it. I bought this new Kick to use in my new P+ but have been using it for the last two weeks to do a little comparison between it and my 2 month old one. They both performed exactly the same. Kind of weird that this one died so quick. My old one is back in the P+ with the original battery I took out and is working perfectly. I dunno Snork, I guess they just don't make them like they used to. 
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Does anybody have an email address for someone in tech support/warranty repairs at Evolv? I tried the form on the Contact Us page of their website but haven't heard anything back and its been over 48hrs. Thanks
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cs@evolvapor.com
No "click" approaching low batt cut-off. It should stutter-vape (tst-tst-tst) and can be a bit subtle. If you miss it, it will just stop firing (what you call "misfire"). As Kick is the first and only drop-in module, Evolv tried to make it as universal as possible. With so many different devices, different metals, different switches, springs, connections, etc., etc., etc. there is just no way to compensate for all the device related variances in conductive efficiency. Kick is designed to low-batt cut-off at 3.2v under load = approx range of 3.4-3.8v unloaded. Mine usually cut-off at 3.6-3.8v unloaded. Yea, might be on the high end but its a trade-off and safety feature. You may have to swap/charge more often in exchange for boosted Power Regulated consistency hits. Evolv knew people would use in various devices with varying conductive efficiencies, diff batts and diff states of batt conditions, etc.
So many variables affect this cut-off (how you charge batts, how many recharge cycles, models/brands, age of batts, chargers, if left too long on non-smart chargers, etc., etc.) and then add the varying factors of different devices. So many try to compare performance, hours of use per charge, etc. but there is no way to make this comparison = just too many variables (aggregate button time being one of the greatest fluctuating and incomparable variables).
Hope this helps.
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Thanks for the quick replies Snork and NebulaBrot! I guess I'll wait a few more days and then try the email if I still haven't heard anything. Just for ....s and giggles I tried it out again on a fresh bat and I am still getting the same result. A very low power output. Tried it on and off the meter. Seems to be getting lower, even with a SR Boge. I was seeing 3.1 volts on the meter now. Going to quit testing before I toast a battery and sit patiently on my thumbs. Thank goodness I bought a spare.
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Is The Kick boost only or does it buck also? May be a stupid question, but I ask those sometimes.
From what I understand it is only a boost circuit.
(Sent from my rooted, OG Droid Incredible so please pardon this misspelled and grammatically incorrect post.)
(Sent from my rooted, OG Droid Incredible so please pardon this misspelled and grammatically incorrect post.)
I love my Kick, but I just heard something on VP Radio that really has me scratching my head ... the host and a couple of callers were discussing the Kick, and they were all saying that the Kick drained the battery even when the mod is off! They claim that if you just leave your Kicked mod laying around unused for a while (several days), you'd find that the battery would be drained down when you licked it up again ... they even claimed that the Kick would drain a battery completely dead and unrecoverable! They recommended removing the Kick (or the battery) every night ...
I've thought about this until my head hurts, but I simply can't understand how the Kick (or anything else) can possibly drain a battery in the absence of a completed circuit (i.e., then the mod is actively being fired); it seems to me that when the mod is just sitting there, it represents an open circuit. Based on their logic, if you'd set an 18650 with its negative end on the desktop and then set a Kick on the positive end, the Kick would draw current from the battery? This all sounds like a lot of hooey to me, but maybe one of you tech-savvy folk can confirm or deny ...
I've thought about this until my head hurts, but I simply can't understand how the Kick (or anything else) can possibly drain a battery in the absence of a completed circuit (i.e., then the mod is actively being fired); it seems to me that when the mod is just sitting there, it represents an open circuit. Based on their logic, if you'd set an 18650 with its negative end on the desktop and then set a Kick on the positive end, the Kick would draw current from the battery? This all sounds like a lot of hooey to me, but maybe one of you tech-savvy folk can confirm or deny ...
I can run a little in house test for you, Scott. My batteries come out of my PILA charger measuring 4.18v. I'm gonna leave my kick with one of my fully charged AW IMR 18500 in my P+18650. Starting this tomorrow morning, I'm just gonna leave the mod sitting on my bedside stand, with a HH.357 1.5ohms on top of it. Everyday till Friday , I'm gonna measure the voltage UNLOADED to see if I had any substantial drops. I'll let you know. If the rumor is true, I should be able to see a drop by Thursday night, even if minimal.
I'll keep you posted, bro.
Take care,
Nic
PS- I'm just doing this because I have my doubts too. It just doesn't make sense to me either.
Thanks! I'll do something similar (hate to be w/o my Kicked Legacy for three days, but hey, anything for science
), and we'll meet back here on Friday and compare notes. Just like MythBusters! 
Even if the Kick has a drain, at least on the PRecisePlus, it couldn't run the battery down. The PrecisePlus is a negative ground button, so when the switch isn't on the negative of the battery is completely disconnected, so you couldn't have a drain. Postive switch systems, i'm not sure on, i'd have to think it through
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Even if the Kick has a drain, at least on the PRecisePlus, it couldn't run the battery down. The PrecisePlus is a negative ground button, so when the switch isn't on the negative of the battery is completely disconnedcted, so you couldn't have a drain. Postive switch systems, i'm not sure on, i'd have to think it through
If I'm not mistaken, the Legacy—in which I use my Kick—is also a negative ground button?
Something else that has me baffled: the Kick is well known for needed a really solid ground connection to even work properly, and yet it can drain the battery with no ground connection at all? DMS ...
in the precis the battery is not electrically grounded to the body or the kick when the button is not pressed. it would be impossible for the battery charge to be effected by a electrical leak(for lack of a better term) inside the kick.
Now if you were to put a kick into a silver bullet or other mod that has the activation switch between the atomizer and the + of the battery it could cause a battery to discharge.
take a silver bullet for example, the kick is making direct contact with the + of the battery, the kick is also making contact with the grounded body of the silver bullet which is also making contact with the spring that makes contact with the battery ground.
So while the kick is in a silver bullet its input side is making contact with both the positive and negative of the battery.
Its "input" side is capable of completing a circuit. its output side is being prevented from completing a circuit by the switch that lie in-between the output + and the Atty +
hope this helps
Now if you were to put a kick into a silver bullet or other mod that has the activation switch between the atomizer and the + of the battery it could cause a battery to discharge.
take a silver bullet for example, the kick is making direct contact with the + of the battery, the kick is also making contact with the grounded body of the silver bullet which is also making contact with the spring that makes contact with the battery ground.
So while the kick is in a silver bullet its input side is making contact with both the positive and negative of the battery.
Its "input" side is capable of completing a circuit. its output side is being prevented from completing a circuit by the switch that lie in-between the output + and the Atty +
hope this helps
I think I follow you ... so you are saying that in mods that complete the circuit by closing the negative connection (essentially, bottom fire buttons?), the Kick will NOT drain power from the battery, but in the case of mods that complete the circuit by closing the positive connection between the atty and the Kick, the Kick CAN put a drain on the battery even when it is not being fired?
correct, As long as the battery negative is in contact with the body of the mod and the kick is in contact with both the body of the mod and the + of the battery you have everything needed to complete a circuit. depending on how the Kick circuit works it is possible for the kick to "leak" voltage and drain the battery.
Since in the Precise the only time the negative of the battery is in contact with the body is when you are pressing the button it is impossible for the kick to complete that circuit without the button being pressed
From my limited understanding of the shockwaves electrical path based off of the pictures if the kick has a voltage leak it will drain the shockwaves battery if it is installed inside the shockwave itself.
The kicklet actually removes the "drain" possibility since you are braking the connection between the kick and the battery positive with the PV switch on the input side of the kick instead of the output side.
again since once inside of the kicklet the kick will not have a contact to the positive of the battery unless the PVs switch is pressed.
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