The LEAST important, most expensive PV component: the BATTERY

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DonDaBoomVape

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I have owned many PVs in my time – skinny e-cigs, fat batts, and mods – and I've finally gotten it through my thick skull that the batteries (or battery housings in the case of mods) on these things are the least important thing about them.:ohmy:

And yet these batteries can be the most expensive PV component and the one to which we all give the most attention. [I have recently observed a slight shift in that attention to include the other components.]

I'm not saying that batteries are unimportant; you need them (or a PT) to provide electricity to the atomizer. But they pale in significance to the atomizer, juice delivery system, and (of course) e-liquid. [I will grant you that batteries are more important than, say, drip tips, but I classify those as optional accessories, not as a basic PV component (although I really do like a good drip tip).]

IMO, the most important PV component is the atomizer, with the juice delivery system running a close second. And I won't put up a big argument against those who would rank the e-liquid as numero uno. Personally, however, I'd rather vape a decent-tasting (but unexceptional) juice in a great cartomizer than the very best juice in a mediocre atty or carto ... or in any atomizer with a conventional cartridge or half-buttocked juice feeder.

I look to the battery to provide a sustained level of voltage for a reasonable period of time – contained in an attractive, comfortable-to-handle package. But 3.7V is 3.7V, whether delivered by a $30 Riva or a $180 Precise 16340 (with similar mAh). [That should not be taken as a put-down of the Precise, which I regard as perhaps the best engineered 3.7V mod.] My 1.7 ohm Smok Tech Mega Single Coils perform pretty much the same on my 3.7V KGO, 3.7V NoEgo's, 3.7V ProVape-1, and Ego Boostered eGo (when set at 3.7V). [I say "pretty much" because they don't all deliver exactly 3.7V throughout their charge cycle.]

But the experience of that cartomizer is very different from the Dual Coil or Echo-e or Leo or VOLT Kr8 or EastMall 801 – which are examples of good cartomizers that each have a unique feel.

My examples are cartomizers, rather than atomizers, because of the effectiveness – and cost-effectiveness – of their juice delivery systems. Direct dripping into attys is the least expensive way to get that effectiveness, but I finally got sick of it after two years. I've read great things about bottom-fed juice feeders, but any of the good ones are pretty expensive ... and I prefer the tubular shape.

There are so many different resistance levels available today that I've been able to find several that hit just right for me on my inexpensive 3.2, 3.5, and 3.7V batteries. [I've been vaping so long – and getting some free PVs to write reviews – that I've accumulated lots of such batts along the way. But if I just had that $30 Riva, I'd still be A-OK.]

"But what about the wonders of variable voltage battery mods?", you ask. Well, they are wonderful: for getting just that right amount of power with the atty or carto you are using. But the good ones are expensive. [If you don't mind cheap plastic boxes, the price isn't bad. However, I do mind cheap plastic boxes.]

The $60 Ego Booster is a good deal if you already own an eGo (and I was privileged to get the Booster free as a beta tester) ... and I want to learn more about the $29 (battery only) "eGo Variable," even though it really is selectable (3.2 or 3.7 or 4.2V), rather than variable voltage. But a $200 ProVari (cost includes batts and charger), $245 Darwin, or $300 EQ? Hey, if you can afford any of these neat devices, go for it!

I would rather have a year's supply of my favorite cartomizers (which I would need anyway, whatever battery package I vape them on).
 

Mindfield

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True. I love my EMDCCs, and even the regular dual coils. They absolutely made all the difference in the world for my vaping experience, whether on my eGo or ProVari. I am going to be getting some higher resistance duals soon and hopefully they will be everything I hope they will be, but I fell in love with DCCs since the first one I cracked open, and while there are other systems I'd like to try, DCCs are my go-to delivery system.
 

fray

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I agree with you that the atomizer/carto is the "heart" of a good vape, but something can also be said about how a PV feels in your hand. It may not contribute directly to the actual vapor, it does improve the experience. I really think that the feel in your hand and the appearance is the driving force in the PV market. A 3.7v mod is a 3.7v mod regardless if it is chrome or powder coated. Slim or fat or made out of a AA battery box.

(This does not include PVs with a juice delivery system or other features like HV or VV that actually improve the act of vaping.)
 

emus

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(This does not include PVs with a juice delivery system or other features like HV or VV that actually improve the act of vaping.)

I found it interesting, the reviews on typical 3.7v PVs.
As long as there is not a current bottle neck, the vapor produced will be the same.
Not many reviews regarding reliability.
 

fray

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I found it interesting, the reviews on typical 3.7v PVs.
As long as there is not a current bottle neck, the vapor produced will be the same.
Not many reviews regarding reliability.

a bottom feeder may not produce more vapor than another 3.7v mod, the act of vaping can be more enjoyable with not having to drip or fiddle. I didn't word it correctly
 

emus

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I still love my 3.7v PVs but it is quite a challenge once you have a VV.
If everything is tuned perfect 3.7v is nice.
VV is easy because it can accommodate out of spec liquids,attys, and cartos.
If your not afraid of getting spoiled you can make a VV for about $10 to $20.
 

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emus

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A VV Altoids mod? Awesome. And, no doubt, curiously strong vapor.

I already have a ProVari, but for some reason I've started getting the itch to build my own custom VV box mod. An Altoids tin would be perfect. What's the battery life like on those, though?

Yes...how did you guess...it does have a curiously strong vapor:)

Batt life depends on factors like carto/atty ohms, voltage and regulator type.

I just did the quick and easy; MV linear regulator kit. Whole project took just one afternoon.

It lasts many hours w/ 3 ohm CE2 at 4.2v.
It lasts some hours w/ 1.6 ohm DC. at 4.2v.
Sorry I don't have more accurate usage times.
 

Mindfield

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Yes...how did you guess...it does have a curiously strong vapor:)

Batt life depends on factors like carto/atty ohms, voltage and regulator type.

I just did the quick and easy; MV linear regulator kit. Whole project took just one afternoon.

It lasts many hours w/ 3 ohm CE2 at 4.2v.
It lasts some hours w/ 1.6 ohm DC. at 4.2v.
Sorry I don't have more accurate usage times.

Sweet! I'll have to look into that soonish. Nice job.
 

Morandir835

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Can't agree on this one DonDaBoomVape sir, while yes the atty or carto is important, as is the juice, they are useless without a pv.... All three parts are equally important. It's like having a cigarette without a way to light it or vise versa. You can't use one without the other (the other two in a pv's case).... Even if you go pt, still needs a power source....
 

six

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I read this earlier and thought about it a while before replying.

I just can't agree on this one. It's because all batteries are not created equal.

This part is where you're right "I look to the battery to provide a sustained level of voltage for a reasonable period of time – contained in an attractive, comfortable-to-handle package." But, the very next part is where my opinion differs, "But 3.7V is 3.7V,".

3,7v isn't 3.7v very often. There is often discussion about ohms law and how we generate watts of power with different voltage and how many amps it requires to provide that voltage. --- What the majority miss is that ohms law doesn't care anything about the resting voltage of the battery. It cares about the load voltage when the circuit is complete. And, this is where it becomes easy to separate batteries from one another.

Here is a quick example from one of my mods:

Constants: 2.0 ohm boge carto - and the PV - and all batts fresh off the charger 4.17 to 4.2v
Variables - different batteries

Trustfire Flame 18650 li-on produces 3.36 load volts.
Ultrafire Silver/Black 18650 produces 3.23 load volts
AW Black/Silver 2600 mah 18650 produces 3.54 load volts
AW IMR 18650 produces 3.65 load volts
BDL IMR 18650 produces 3.47 load volts

The high is more than a 4/10 volt difference from the low.

Then, we can talk about how well batteries continue to produce voltage as they drain. When those batteries are down to 3.6 unloaded volts, the differences are even greater under load. In fact, the AW IMR drained to 3.6 is still able to produce 3.3 load volts and the Ultrafire drained to 3.6 is only able to produce 2.56 load volts.

This holds true with different eGo clone batteries, too. The joye ego's are regulated, so they pretty much produce what they produce until they are drained. The unregulated eGo clones like the Riva and Smoke Tech batteries have the same sort of differences. I have a gold band eGo clone from madvapes that can really deliver amps better than any other eGo clone I have. It is head and shoulders above all of my other ones. The Riva I have does very well, but isn't even in the same ballpark. The Smoke Tech black is a little below the Riva and I have an unknown manufacturer battery that looks a lot like a Riva T-Rex that is at the bottom of the scale.

My conclusions after testing all of my batteries is that I think the extra money for IMRs is well spent because they provide a more consistent vaping experience. I actually started buying flashlights that take 18650s for my big li-on's and have been buying IMRs for my PVs. I'll probably sell my substantial number of li-on 18350s in the classifieds one of these days because even the BDL IMR's outperform them by a wide margin. - I've also decided that as my eGo clones die, I'll be replacing them with the gold band eGo clone.
 

fray

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I read this earlier and thought about it a while before replying.

I just can't agree on this one. It's because all batteries are not created equal.

This part is where you're right "I look to the battery to provide a sustained level of voltage for a reasonable period of time – contained in an attractive, comfortable-to-handle package." But, the very next part is where my opinion differs, "But 3.7V is 3.7V,".

3,7v isn't 3.7v very often. There is often discussion about ohms law and how we generate watts of power with different voltage and how many amps it requires to provide that voltage. --- What the majority miss is that ohms law doesn't care anything about the resting voltage of the battery. It cares about the load voltage when the circuit is complete. And, this is where it becomes easy to separate batteries from one another.

Here is a quick example from one of my mods:

Constants: 2.0 ohm boge carto - and the PV - and all batts fresh off the charger 4.17 to 4.2v
Variables - different batteries

Trustfire Flame 18650 li-on produces 3.36 load volts.
Ultrafire Silver/Black 18650 produces 3.23 load volts
AW Black/Silver 2600 mah 18650 produces 3.54 load volts
AW IMR 18650 produces 3.65 load volts
BDL IMR 18650 produces 3.47 load volts

The high is more than a 4/10 volt difference from the low.

Then, we can talk about how well batteries continue to produce voltage as they drain. When those batteries are down to 3.6 unloaded volts, the differences are even greater under load. In fact, the AW IMR drained to 3.6 is still able to produce 3.3 load volts and the Ultrafire drained to 3.6 is only able to produce 2.56 load volts.

This holds true with different eGo clone batteries, too. The joye ego's are regulated, so they pretty much produce what they produce until they are drained. The unregulated eGo clones like the Riva and Smoke Tech batteries have the same sort of differences. I have a gold band eGo clone from madvapes that can really deliver amps better than any other eGo clone I have. It is head and shoulders above all of my other ones. The Riva I have does very well, but isn't even in the same ballpark. The Smoke Tech black is a little below the Riva and I have an unknown manufacturer battery that looks a lot like a Riva T-Rex that is at the bottom of the scale.

My conclusions after testing all of my batteries is that I think the extra money for IMRs is well spent because they provide a more consistent vaping experience. I actually started buying flashlights that take 18650s for my big li-on's and have been buying IMRs for my PVs. I'll probably sell my substantial number of li-on 18350s in the classifieds one of these days because even the BDL IMR's outperform them by a wide margin. - I've also decided that as my eGo clones die, I'll be replacing them with the gold band eGo clone.

I agree with you, but I was assuming we were talking apples to apples with a 3.7v battery.

I use high drain batteries because of their performance over other types. But a 2 different mods using the same battery will perform the same (given there are no differences in draw, etc)
 
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