I never understood how pancake wicking could possibly not flood a chimney, especially with any normal ratio of pg/vg.
The Lemo RTA: A Build With Pics
- Thread starter VaPreis
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
I never understood how pancake wicking could possibly not flood a chimney, especially with any normal ratio of pg/vg.
Don't know about replacement parts, but I suggest you get one of those:
I use mine all the time--keeps all the parts together and I never lose anything anymore.
All I ever got from that pancake wick was dry cotton on the pancake part above the coil.
ever since I went to the BIG 3.4 mm coil,and lots of wick on each end,I never get a dry hit! I think the larger coil,and wick let the juice flow more easily! Just like a hose,a 2 inch hose won't have the flow of a 4 inch hose,so I think it allows the juice to flow up into the coil easier. I just run the wick through the coil (kinda tight) and take the ends up into a verticle shape,slide the side section of the RBA down over them and screw it on the deck. Then I cut the with sides,and gently push them down to the deck. Juice up the wick and ciol,then open up the little holes on the deck by pushing the wicking around until I can look down and see the holes. No dry Hits Ever!
Well, that's a caveat that everyone who advocates pancake wicking conveniently leaves out.
Now with my subtank, pancake wicking doesn't leak. But with the lemo it does. I'm guessing it's a combination of huge juice channels and a large build deck.
Something I'm quickly learning is the wicking technique that works best varies between devices.
I use the same chunky wicking technique in both my Lemos and STminis. They both work great with whatever juice I put in them up to 80vg. Easy peasy pleasy.
Just bumping to track.
My $22 Lemo Drop - first real RTA for me - should be delivered tomorrow. Read just about this whole thread in the interim, skimming over the temp control stuff.
Kinda exciting. Little things make me happy.
My $22 Lemo Drop - first real RTA for me - should be delivered tomorrow. Read just about this whole thread in the interim, skimming over the temp control stuff.
Kinda exciting. Little things make me happy.
A couple of quick questions for the regulars:
Has anyone tried putting a wrap or two of teflon plumbers tape on the screw/positive pin where the air flow adjustment nut sits to seat it a little better?
Has anyone actually tried the purple locktite "fix"? Does the AFC remain adjustable or does it just get fixed in place until you peel off the loctite?
For fear of nic overload, I'd probably try to keep the draw on the tighter side - at least until I get my liquids down from 12mg, which will take some time.
Has anyone tried putting a wrap or two of teflon plumbers tape on the screw/positive pin where the air flow adjustment nut sits to seat it a little better?
Has anyone actually tried the purple locktite "fix"? Does the AFC remain adjustable or does it just get fixed in place until you peel off the loctite?
For fear of nic overload, I'd probably try to keep the draw on the tighter side - at least until I get my liquids down from 12mg, which will take some time.
Purple loctite is the one you will want to use it is low strength and will hold your afc ring, but will allow you to still make adjustments.
DO NOT USE THE RED OR BLUE LOCTITE if you do game over you will never move the afc ring again without destroying it.
I wouldn't recommend trying to use pipe thread tape due to the chance of blocking or restricting the air intake holes.
That being said restricting your air flow is not really going to reduce your nicotine intake, if you want to do that reduce your nicotine level.
DO NOT USE THE RED OR BLUE LOCTITE if you do game over you will never move the afc ring again without destroying it.
I wouldn't recommend trying to use pipe thread tape due to the chance of blocking or restricting the air intake holes.
That being said restricting your air flow is not really going to reduce your nicotine intake, if you want to do that reduce your nicotine level.
Thanks for the info. Might try an o-ring fix first, as I don't know whether the local hardware stores carry the purple Loctite. Seen it on Amazon, though.
Not trying to reduce my nicotine intake by reducing airflow - more like trying not to ramp up my eliquid consumption to unreasonable levels while still chasing improved flavor, which seems like sort of a balancing act.
Also I'm under the impression that Increased airflow with higher wattage leads to greater throat hit and the only way out is to reduce the nicotine level in eliquids. True?
Not trying to reduce my nicotine intake by reducing airflow - more like trying not to ramp up my eliquid consumption to unreasonable levels while still chasing improved flavor, which seems like sort of a balancing act.
Also I'm under the impression that Increased airflow with higher wattage leads to greater throat hit and the only way out is to reduce the nicotine level in eliquids. True?
3 lemos here and I find that the air flow adjustment doesn't really move once set. Might be the fact that I have mine all the way open but unless I move it accidentally when removing juice.
Make sure you give it a quick rinse in soapy water and check to make sure everything is tight!
Make sure you give it a quick rinse in soapy water and check to make sure everything is tight!
I have mine all the way open and its never moved.
Just have the ring set to all the way open then cover one or more holes with tape if its too airy.
Or buy lemo 2.
Just have the ring set to all the way open then cover one or more holes with tape if its too airy.
Or buy lemo 2.
New Lemo Drop came in today. I'm examining it and I'm starting to get a little perturbed. I haven't tried it yet because I'm afraid - based on what I've read here - that it will probably just flood and make a mess regardless of what kind of build I put in there.
Here's the rundown:
If I screw the upper chimney into the top cap securely and do the "tongue test" - with or without a drip test - I get a decent seal.
If I then screw the lower chimney onto the upper chimney and do the "tongue test", I still get a decent seal.
However, if I then assemble the rest of the parts, close off the 4 holes in the base, and repeat the tongue test I cannot get a vacuum. This is so regardless of how hard I try to screw the glass down. I've tried screwing the glass down hard enough that I had difficulty unscrewing the assembly.
The tongue test also fails when I assemble the Lemo by first screwing the bottom chimney into the build deck, then screwing the top chimney into the bottom chimney, the completing the rest of the assembly by screwing down the glass and base. (4 holes closed.)
In case it matters, if I screw the upper chimney firmly into the top cap, but screw the lower chimney into the deck section, then try to assemble the unit there the top and bottom chimney sections do not completely screw together. Someone posted a picture like that somewhere earlier in this thread, but I haven't found it yet.
Both silicone o-rings for the glass are present, as well as the o-ring that sits on the top chimney, just below the threads that screw into the top cap.
I'm supposed to get a vacuum when the unit is assembled but empty right?
Any ideas?
My guess at this point is that the glass section is a little too tall. (Nope, see EDIT below). I'd appreciate it if someone could measure their glass section; mine is approximately 24mm or about 15/16th" tall. Maybe I should add another o-ring to the top chimney? BTW, I checked the 2 spare small o-rings, and to me the one that came already installed on the top chimney seems a bit more bulky than the spares.
A little frustrated at the moment.
PS: The GOOD news is that I'm no longer concerned about airflow. It's not anywhere near as open as I thought it might be. I'm pretty sure I can deal with it even wide-open.
EDIT: Nope it's not the tank. IBtanked replacement glass is 24mm. Aside: this thing smells and tastes of machine oil and will need a wash if I'm going to try it as is.
Last edited:
- Status
