The Lemo RTA: A Build With Pics

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Frocket

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I rinsed mine under hot water with some dish soap, but it was clean when I got it. No discernable machine oil smell, no marks on it. Usually I find a quick wash with dish soap is fine - if it's clean enough to eat off of, I figure it's clean enough to vape.

I also washed my hands well before wicking; didn't want any skin oil or who knows what else getting in the wick. I'm getting pretty clean flavor from it, no issues. The vape different than the Erlprinz, just like the ErlP is different from the Magma or the Fogger. Other than that, my juice is tasting like it normally does.

One thing I've noticed is that the flavor isn't as "saturated" as some other atties. The Erlprinz gives me less vapor, and less flavor, but the flavor is somehow more saturated, kind of a wet taste. The Magma gives more vapor and thicker flavor, seems I can almost chew on it; in a lot of cases, the flavor is just too strong.

Flavor on the Lemo is pretty good, not quite as good as the ErlP, and not as strong as the Magma, just different. Almost a drier vape, with good flavor, but not overpowering. I wouldn't mind it being a little stronger, but I've only tried two builds so far. I normally get better flavor from thinner gauge wire, so next build will probably be 28 gauge instead of 26, also want to try parallel 30 gauge.

BOOM!
 

VaPreis

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So I just got my black lemo in last night and I'm frustrated to say the least. I initially took it apart and wiped everything down with a qtip and iso alcohol. I then tossed all the parts into an 8 minute ultrasonic cleaner wash. After getting my first build and tank full, I start taking a few drags and immediately get this funky metallic taste. Thought it could have been bad juice so I tried another juice and the metallic taste was still there. Tore the tank down, cleaned it again, and same thing. I'm using a 1.4 ohm coil (28 gauge) and Japanese cotton for the wicking. Running the build on my mvp at 11 watts. Anyways I don't know what else to do other than to contact the vendor and return it. I really wanted to like this device but I can't handle that funky taste. Has anyone else experienced any issues like this?


Is it possible you have a hot spot on your coil?

I used both my Lemos straight out of the box with no issues.
 

cigatron

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May 14, 2014
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So I just got my black lemo in last night and I'm frustrated to say the least. I initially took it apart and wiped everything down with a qtip and iso alcohol. I then tossed all the parts into an 8 minute ultrasonic cleaner wash. After getting my first build and tank full, I start taking a few drags and immediately get this funky metallic taste. Thought it could have been bad juice so I tried another juice and the metallic taste was still there. Tore the tank down, cleaned it again, and same thing. I'm using a 1.4 ohm coil (28 gauge) and Japanese cotton for the wicking. Running the build on my mvp at 11 watts. Anyways I don't know what else to do other than to contact the vendor and return it. I really wanted to like this device but I can't handle that funky taste. Has anyone else experienced any issues like this?

Joppa, I've had metallic taste from over wicked coils or too open air flow. It runs too lean on juice and tastes like I'm licking a penny or something. Try wicking lighter or closing down your airflow adjuster to help draw more juice from the tank.

Good luck,

:)cig
 

BNEAT

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How can I replicate the stock build? For whatever reason I really like it. At around 20 watts it seems about perfect to me with my juices. I like the spaced coils and it seems pretty darn durable and easy to wick. What's the gauge and diameter? Also how to get it spaced like the stock on is?

The stock coils that came in all of mine were 9 wraps of 26awg x 3.3mm I.D.
 

MidwestGuy

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My findings after a couple of days with the Lemo ... using a DNA40 mod with temperature protection / Non-Resistance Ni200 coils.

I'm using a spaced 28AWG Ni200 coil, 3.175mm (1/8" mandrel) with 10 wraps, coming out at .16ohms. I make a contact coil wrapped very tightly using a jig, then gently pull it apart evenly, adjusting as necessary to make sure the coils are evenly spaced.

I've had some odd connection issues ... I fixed this by making sure the base is screwed on as tightly as possible and the pin is screwed in all the way / tight. My mod has an adjustable/spring loaded center pin that is smaller than the outer diameter of the 510 connection on the Lemo, so it fits in there and makes a good connection. I realize the Lemo is supposed to have an adjustable 510 connection by backing out that screw, but I beg to differ.

The stock post screws are not adequate for trapping Ni200 leads. I have a bunch of spares from my Kayfuns - these fit perfectly and work much better. Additionally, make sure you have a screw driver that fits those philips head post screws perfectly; the Philips head in my Stanley precision set was not ideal. I purchased a Precision Screwdriver set at Ace Hardware and the included Philips head in that set fits much better/allows me to torque down the posts much tighter and easier. I'm going to order some more Kayfun screws as spares.

I had a little trouble with leaking on a second fill on one of my Lemos. The key to a non-leaking Lemo is to make sure you build up an adequate amount of vacuum by enjoying a nice hefty vaping session immediately after filling. Additionally, make sure it is sealed properly! I remove both top and bottom silicon tank rings and make sure they're clean, then re-install. Also make sure the glass is completely clean where it makes contact with the silicon rings. I also use small beads of e-liquid on the top and bottom of the glass where it meets the silicon seals, and spin the glass on these seals before tightening all the way. Make sure you put a small bead of e-liquid on the black chimney o-ring as well.

As for the vape ... whoa. It's airy! I tightened up the airflow almost all the way and still pretty airy, but this is when the good flavor started. Nice slow draws with the tightened down airflow and the vape is fantastic. Huge clouds of tasty vapor. Depending on juice, I'm typically around 20 watts (give or take a couple) with temperature protection set at 450F.

I'm very happy with these attys so far. Very simple to build once you work out some of the minor kinks. The Kayfuns will probably be secondary attys for me at this point.
 

puffon

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  • Sep 18, 2014
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    Have my first disappointment with the Lemo.
    Cleaned last night, thought I dried it good, however this am, discovered rust on quite a few areas on the base.
    I know "stainless" is not rust proof, but had hoped they used a better grade stainless.
    Guess next time I'll have to fire up the air compressor, and be sure its dry.
    Any suggestions on the rust removal in the threads etc. and areas I can't get to with a q-tip?
    I'm thinking of soaking in WD40, then a soak in alcohol.
     

    VaPreis

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    Have my first disappointment with the Lemo.
    Cleaned last night, thought I dried it good, however this am, discovered rust on quite a few areas on the base.
    I know "stainless" is not rust proof, but had hoped they used a better grade stainless.
    Guess next time I'll have to fire up the air compressor, and be sure its dry.
    Any suggestions on the rust removal in the threads etc. and areas I can't get to with a q-tip?
    I'm thinking of soaking in WD40, then a soak in alcohol.

    Several reports of the fill screw rusting, so that's probably the source. I haven't had any trouble with the other pieces rusting and I've had the stainless version for a couple months.

    It's a shame that the build quality is so good on the Lemo and they cheaped out with the chromed fill screw.
     

    puffon

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  • Sep 18, 2014
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    Several reports of the fill screw rusting, so that's probably the source. I haven't had any trouble with the other pieces rusting and I've had the stainless version for a couple months.

    It's a shame that the build quality is so good on the Lemo and they cheaped out with the chromed fill screw.

    Yes, it was in the fill screw area.
    Next cleaning I'll leave the screw out to dry, and try the rubber stopper.
    Now just have to look for some deck screws, with a bigger head.
    Working with twisted Ni200 is a challenge...
     

    Frocket

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    Yes, it was in the fill screw area.
    Next cleaning I'll leave the screw out to dry, and try the rubber stopper.
    Now just have to look for some deck screws, with a bigger head.
    Working with twisted Ni200 is a challenge...
    Same here, not liking those deck screws; a little more real estate under the screw heads would be appreciated. I've been using simple 30 gauge nickel coils, instead of twisted. Wicking is a somewhat delicate procedure, but when using a double insertion method it's no big deal. I pull the amount of rayon I'd normally use, split it in half, twist an end on both strands, and run them opposite directions through the coil.

    BTW, even though a fountain drink straw is about the same diameter as the drip tip I'm using, they do NOT work the same. In other words, attempting to lung hit a Coke is a bad idea.

    BOOM!
     

    newphreak

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    Oct 15, 2014
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    Hmm, is it possible to char/burn kanthal? I've had some weird taste lately and thrown all my builds, but now I tested the 26gauge(?) wire that came with the lemo on my dripper. And only had enough for one of the coils, so one coil was from the lemo string, and the other coil from a 10m roll i bought. When i dry burned them to adjust them I noticed the one i got with my lemo "sparkled" slightly, and became black/charred. But the other 26gauge kanthal did not do that. So I ended up making a new coil from the trusted kanthal roll.

    But this still leaves me slighly curious as to what the heck just happened with/to the wire from my lemo. :p
    This might explain why I to date haven't been able to keep a single build in the lemo and actually enjoy it. The wire they supplied might just have been pure crap, guess it's a bad batch? hehe
     

    WeirdWillie

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    Yes, it was in the fill screw area.
    Next cleaning I'll leave the screw out to dry, and try the rubber stopper.
    Now just have to look for some deck screws, with a bigger head.
    Working with twisted Ni200 is a challenge...
    Here lately I've been using tightly twisted 30Ga Ni200 using an 18v Dewalt drill in low gear pulling light tension (just enough to keep the slack out)
    after 30-45 seconds or so it will usually break at the drill, then I'll turn the wire around and do the same from the other end.
    I found that at a slower speed longer twist time and tighter twist it work hardens the wire much much better, then I spiral 8-10 wraps around a 2.5mm phillips screwdriver shaft, scrunch everything up and let it spring back to it's natural relaxed position, this gives a perfect spaced twisted 30ga coil, wicking is similar to that of kanthal, nowhere near as touchy as non work hardened Ni200, makes wicking a snap without destroying your coil.
    This method has worked flawlessly for me every time, oh I forgot to mention I wrap the coil legs around the screws 1 wrap and tighten the the poo poo out of them.
     

    mix1983

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    twis28g_zps5599dfbe.jpg


    This is going in the Lemo when it's done with its vodka bath.

    Also, I am getting rust from the fill screw as well. There is a slight rust ring around where the head of the screw seats. I'm a bit skeptical about the rubber plug, might have to try it while I'm on this long weekend.
     
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