The Lemo RTA: A Build With Pics

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pls0138

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Oct 2, 2014
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I can't believe some of you guys are drilling out your lemos, you must be some airflow junkies haha. I would think that drilling out the holes in the center pin would make a bigger difference. I'm sure that more/bigger air holes on the outside makes a bit of difference, but when it comes down to it if those center air holes are the same size you really aren't getting that much more air flowing up through the of the device. Just a thought, would be interested to hear other opinions.
 

nopoison

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I can't believe some of you guys are drilling out your lemos, you must be some airflow junkies haha. I would think that drilling out the holes in the center pin would make a bigger difference. I'm sure that more/bigger air holes on the outside makes a bit of difference, but when it comes down to it if those center air holes are the same size you really aren't getting that much more air flowing up through the of the device. Just a thought, would be interested to hear other opinions.

I believe you have to start form the outside first and work your way in. Unscrew the bottom base completely from the Lemo and test the draw. Screw the bottom base back on and test the draw. IF there is no difference than you go to the center post holes.
 

BNEAT

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Does anyone know where/if you can find a replacement center pin? (with the airflow holes). I would like to try to modify one for more airflow, as talked about earlier, but not risk the expense having a useless tank if I mess it up.

I have no idea, that's why I was really careful with mine when I drilled it out.


That hurts my chest just thinking about it

I can't believe some of you guys are drilling out your lemos, you must be some airflow junkies haha. I would think that drilling out the holes in the center pin would make a bigger difference. I'm sure that more/bigger air holes on the outside makes a bit of difference, but when it comes down to it if those center air holes are the same size you really aren't getting that much more air flowing up through the of the device. Just a thought, would be interested to hear other opinions.

The holes in the post and the external holes in the base were the same size on all of mine, but the post holes had burrs in them which not only restricted them, it also caused them to whistle!! I drilled them all out to 2mm, and polished them up with a die grinder.... I think I could probably breath through the things now
 

Allegry

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Oct 23, 2014
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Re: running a Lemo on an MVP2 - yeah good luck. I just built a couple coils between 1.0 and 1.6ohms with 28 and 30awg kanthal. The time to build up enough heat running on a very power-limited mod like the MVP2 is immense. It technically "works" it's just not particularly effective. It was good coil building practice for me since I'm a new to rebuildables, but to run this thing efficiently it just requires more oomph than the MVP can deliver from my hour or so of experience..
 

Canno

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Re: running a Lemo on an MVP2 - yeah good luck. I just built a couple coils between 1.0 and 1.6ohms with 28 and 30awg kanthal. The time to build up enough heat running on a very power-limited mod like the MVP2 is immense. It technically "works" it's just not particularly effective. It was good coil building practice for me since I'm a new to rebuildables, but to run this thing efficiently it just requires more oomph than the MVP can deliver from my hour or so of experience..

Just for kicks, I'm running a 2.4 ohm coil in my Lemo right now at 6-7 watts and getting a pretty good vape. Of course that wouldn't do for a lot of people, but I thought I'd try something like that for a couple of days and see if I was satisfied and whether or not it would use less juice.
 

Allegry

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Just for kicks, I'm running a 2.4 ohm coil in my Lemo right now at 6-7 watts and getting a pretty good vape. Of course that wouldn't do for a lot of people, but I thought I'd try something like that for a couple of days and see if I was satisfied and whether or not it would use less juice.

Yeah, i fiddled with it some more last night and settled in a 30awg 2.2ohm build and it seems to work pretty well - at least as well as my Nautilus does in terms of vapor production. Unfortuantely, I don't think I got the wicking quite right because I'm getting a lot of dry hits with a relatively thin 50/50 juice. I'll tear it back down again after work today and try it again.
 

ultrabadger

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After playing with my Lemos the last couple days, here's a PSA for anyone running ni200 builds.
Make sure the bottom 510 cap is screwed down TIGHT. My VaporShark was glitching something fierce and I couldn't figure out why. A build that had been vaping like a champ spontaneously stopped working properly. Eventually I determined that the bottom cap was a tiny smidge backed off from rock bottom. Cranked it down and now everything is awesome again.
Has anyone tried adjusting the internal positive post? (The one with the AFC ring on it) I'm wondering if I should back that out a quarter turn just to ensure a better connection.
 

WeirdWillie

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I take mine out, flip the round delrin washer over, this seems to give a little better air flow plus, extended the post downward slightly, also on one of my other lemos I removed the center pin from the bottom cap placed a tiny oring on the 510 screw and another underneath the bottom cap center post between the post and the delrin flat washer, this works to tighten everything up, and also fixes 510 screw allowing it to protrude a bit more.
 

kitten frenzy

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I take mine out, flip the round delrin washer over, this seems to give a little better air flow plus, extended the post downward slightly, also on one of my other lemos I removed the center pin from the bottom cap placed a tiny oring on the 510 screw and another underneath the bottom cap center post between the post and the delrin flat washer, this works to tighten everything up, and also fixes 510 screw allowing it to protrude a bit more.

Hmm, when I tried flipping the delrin washer over (flat side facing down), My resistance started jumping even more than usual.

The 510 screw to 510 base cap is also a very sloppy fit, which I'm guessing might also be causing some ohm jumping issues I'm experiencing.
 

Allegry

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Oct 23, 2014
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So the dry-hits went away and I got back to vaping but I noticed I was getting almsot no flavor. I fiddled with AFC but no change. Frustrated with my decidedly sub-par experience I went ahead and tore down my build again. Wick showed no signs of burning and was saturated. No leaks, coil fired fine, resistance stable. The juice is Crapples from ITC - a decidedly strong sour apple/cider flavor but I'm getting almost zero flavor running it through the Lemo on my previous build (2.2ohm, 30awg kanthal running at 6-10watts on my MVP2). Anyone have any suggestions other than running a higher-power build?

Edit: Flavor comparison made against a standard Nautilus with a fresh BVC coil. Flavor for days on that thing, but with the Lemo all I got is the nicotine peppery taste/feeling.
 
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WeirdWillie

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Hmm, when I tried flipping the delrin washer over (flat side facing down), My resistance started jumping even more than usual.

The 510 screw to 510 base cap is also a very sloppy fit, which I'm guessing might also be causing some ohm jumping issues I'm experiencing.
The jest of it is when dealing with a DNA40 every electrical connection has to be tight, and making good contact every time all the time.
on other regulated mods or even mech mods it's not as critical, important but not critical.
The DNA40 will tell off on wonky builds, subpar connections, and wicking issues, which is a good thing and once you have them sorted out you can't ask for a better bore satisfying vape.
Soon gone will be the days of just slapping questionable builds together and pushing massave power thew them and hoping for the best.
When dealing with Ni200 forget what you thought you knew about coil building, and pay close attention to every connection from your atty all the way to your device 510 connection making damn sure everything is tight and remain tight.
Oh and the more moving parts you have the more you are going to have to pay attention, I forsee the kayfun 4 as being a nightmare paired with the DNA40
 
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novamatt

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I've got a full size Lemo and a Drop now, and I'm loving them. Was a long time kayfun user and now they're all in the drawer. A couple of tips I've found vs building a kayfun:

- Use more wick. I'm getting the best results with a larger coil (1/8 inch) and a lot more cotton than I'm used to on the kayfun.
- When you wick the Lemo, don't clear the juice channels the way you would with a kayfun. Just tuck the wick down in there. With the channels clear, I was having a lot of leaking issues when the tank was on its side. With the wick just tucked, it's bulletproof, and no wicking issues.
- As far as screwing the coils onto the deck, 28awg or thinner wire seems to do better when wrapped around the screws and trapped that way. It's a little too small to trap it well inside the hole and the longer legs add a lot of resistance. With 26awg, the holes seem to work better. I haven't tried anything larger, but I'm assuming it would be the same.

I feel like I've got this thing dialed in now after about a week and it's awesome.
 
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