Hey, why not throw in some other rebuildables and form the ECF orchestra? That would be a hoot if only for the "startle" factor to watch someones face when the "orchestra" was explained......
The Lemo RTA: A Build With Pics
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My fill hole "screw" started to rust. I dont take it out to fill the tank, but i do wash all my parts with water.
Time to send an angry email to Eleaf.
Time to send an angry email to Eleaf.
Here is a simple quick fix for that.
Remove the screw, take it outside and throw it as hard as you can then go back inside and install the rubber plug.
Rusty screw problem solved.
HAHA!
Im just going to weld the hole shut, so no screw and no rubber plug.
That'll work too , overkill but would work lol
Made a new coil, 6 wraps on 1/8", 24gauge came to 0.64ohms. Rewicked it with Rayon, using "Nest" method, and now i can vape at 50watts.
Thats right, Lemo Drop at 50watts!!
Thats right, Lemo Drop at 50watts!!
The Lemo is silent compared to the ErlK, which sounds like a jet afterburner
Now that would put me over the top especially as I thought of what I spent every time I "ignited the burner"...... Sometimes I just want a quiet vape and not listen to the sound of high speed air entering my high tech nicotine delivery device.
I switched the drip tip to a cherry vape tip - huge improvement on the whistling.
This has probably been asked...I just got my Lemo and first tried it with the stock coil...didn't like so I built my own. I usually use the Kayfun Lite Plus by Ehpro. So with my coil I wicked it with the amount of cotton that I usually do with my Kayfuns.
But it seems to just not be wicking right! I prefer a middle draw. My coil is at 1.6 ohms and I usually vape at around 4 volts.
All I have heard is just raves about this thing so what am I doing wrong? Should I be using more cotton. I use the Japanese cotton pads.
Thanks!
But it seems to just not be wicking right! I prefer a middle draw. My coil is at 1.6 ohms and I usually vape at around 4 volts.
All I have heard is just raves about this thing so what am I doing wrong? Should I be using more cotton. I use the Japanese cotton pads.
Thanks!
Anyone have any ideas for a way to extend the 510 pin on the base adapter? I know it can be threaded down, but that loosens the piece inside the adapter. I got my lemo Drop today and put it on my SMPL, amazing combo with a .6 build BTW, but the pin just BARELY clears the threading. Has anyone found a longer pin that would work?
Can you take a pic? And check that the wick isnt blocking your juice channels. More is generally better (for me) but I still make sure I can see ight from the chamber when i look down.
Also I found the sweet spot to be between 1.0 and 1.2, but if you didnt like the stock coils...
FWIW, I only use Rayon. Just easier for me to prep than KgD.
I took out the plastic insulator and turned it around. It was pretty tough getting the screw to go down far enough but I forced it and even though it sticks out a tiny bit more than I would prefer it works perfectly!
Recently purchased the eLeaf Lemo RTA and thought I'd share a build on this fantastic RTA.
Here is a couple pics for comparison's sake to a KFL clone base.
Lemo on the left, you can see that the center air hole is more then double the size of a Kayfun. The build deck is much larger as well. The base has 4 air holes spaced 90 degrees apart.
It is important to note that the Lemo is 23mm! Fine on my Cloupor box, but will overhang a bit on a 22mm mech.
Lemo on the left again, a comparison of the decks and chimney. The Lemo's chimney is huge.
This build is for use on my Cloupor 30 Watt box. It is 12 wraps of 26ga Kanthal with an ID of 2.2mm for just shy of 1.4Ω. Plenty of room on the deck for this huge coil. You can also see how deeply the liquid channels are cut in this pic.
Wicked with CVS Organic cotton ball. I prefer the cotton thicker through the coil, which for me, gives less popping and better flavor.
Bunny ear style, wicks positioned upward with chimney base installed.
Tails tucked and ready to be primed.
A test fire at 25 watts.
A pic of the bottom with the lower base section removed. Fill port screw on the left. Some rubber plugs are included with the kit, which I have not tried yet for "tool less" filling. I have been using a syringe to fill it, but a needle bottle or even a plastic needle bottle would work fine. It easily holds 5 ml.
Air flow is adjusted by turning the ring around the center pin in either direction. A small screw driver is helpful for this. It seems to hold it's position fine, but obviously can't be adjusted "on the fly", seeing as the bottom base section must be removed and a tool is required.
Fully assembled on my Cloupor box and vaping nicely at 20 watts. Air flow through the Lemo is amazing, being even more open then my Fogger V4, which makes it great for larger coil/higher wattage builds. I have to dial the airflow down for my taste, even with this build. I prefer mouth to lung hits, just like how I smoked, but air flow is big enough through it wide open to lung hit it. Flavor with the Lemo is sharper then my Kayfun and Taifun GT, and rivals that of my Expromizer which was my previous favorite. The Lemo's airflow spanks the Expromizer.
I did make one minor modification to it, and that was to add a small o-ring underneath the adjustable positive pin on the lower section of the base. When the adjustable pin is loosened, it moves fairly easily and I found myself having to re-adjust when re-mounting it on the Cloupor box. The o-ring helped hold the adjustment where I wanted it and can now screw it back on the Cloupor without having to adjust the pin every time.
I purchased the Lemo from Vaper Company for $33.95 with free shipping. I'll be purchasing another.
EDIT: The drip tip pictured in the last photo did not come with the Lemo. While the included drip tip worked just fine, I prefer this one for look and feel.
Thanks for posting the build looks really good
go back few pages and read willies guide. Its spread out on two seperate pages.
I believe someone suggested removing the screw and placing an o-ring on it then screwing it back together, that puts enough tension on it to take the play out of the connectors.
Ha, that is exactly what I just did. I didn't have an o-ring small enough so I cut the smallest I did have in half and placed it inside the 510 hole on the base of the inside piece (where the screw meets it), worked perfectly. Now it sticks out about 1mm, which is perfect.
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