I'm betting that's it. The tube is pretty thin metal. I do remember one time I struggled with it for a while then put it down. I went back a few minutes later and picked it up and it turned with no effort at all. Thanks again
The Lemo RTA: A Build With Pics
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I'm betting that's it. The tube is pretty thin metal. I do remember one time I struggled with it for a while then put it down. I went back a few minutes later and picked it up and it turned with no effort at all. Thanks again
I've had my Lemo Drop now for a few days and have done a total of three builds playing around with it. I have to say, compared to my Kayfun Nano and Russian 91%, this thing is a fantastic bargain for a really good tank!
My main motivation was to get an RTA with a big enough deck to accommodate the larger number of wraps needed with a Nickel build for my DNA-40 mod. In this respect, the Lemo is fantastic. A ton of room compared to my other RTAs and once built right, a very stable vape.
Of the three coils I've built, I think I like the first one the best. It was 30 gauge nickel wrapped 11 times around a 1/8 drill bit. Spaced it out by hand and wicked with with KGD. Was able to vape it around 18W with a temp limit of 430 degrees and it performed flawlessly! I did have slight issue with the ohms jumping around a bit, but found out that was due to my lack of good tightening of the screws.
Overall, I've been converted. I see more Lemos in my future!
My main motivation was to get an RTA with a big enough deck to accommodate the larger number of wraps needed with a Nickel build for my DNA-40 mod. In this respect, the Lemo is fantastic. A ton of room compared to my other RTAs and once built right, a very stable vape.
Of the three coils I've built, I think I like the first one the best. It was 30 gauge nickel wrapped 11 times around a 1/8 drill bit. Spaced it out by hand and wicked with with KGD. Was able to vape it around 18W with a temp limit of 430 degrees and it performed flawlessly! I did have slight issue with the ohms jumping around a bit, but found out that was due to my lack of good tightening of the screws.
Overall, I've been converted. I see more Lemos in my future!
I know from where you speak!! I now have 3 Lemo's in rotation, two with nickel builds and a drop with a kanthal build, love these things.
My first few builds with nickel were a bit on the cheeky side, sloppy coils and connections made for a very inconsistant vape and readings. With the nickel it just takes a little more attention to detail but the reward is very satisfying!!
On a dripper like the Veritas, I take direct lung hits (LH), and that's because of how airy the Veritas was. I actually had to "learn" how to take a LH just so I could use the Veritas, before that, I never really had the intention of trying LHs. I have since found that for certain juices, I enjoy taking LH. So I toggle between my Russian 91 with mouth to lung hits (MTL), and the veritas with LH.
I got the Lemo because I was hoping that I would be able to leave my dripper at home and just use the Lemo and the Russian, but for me personally, I didn't enjoy taking LHs on the Lemo like I did my veritas. Which was a bummer because the Russian was good enough for me for MTLs.
Which got me to question at first if the Lemo would be any good for me at all if I were to turn the airflow down to match my Russian 91 wide open. I now find that I do like the flavour on the Lemo more than the Russian. My guess is that this is because even with the airflow restricted, the air hole on the build deck feeding to the coil is much larger and covers a wider surface area. But I'm no expert so please don't quote me =).
To get to a comfortable airflow for MTL, for me I turn the AFC all the way closed, and work backwards 1 to 2 turns. The Lemo tends to loosen it's airflow on it's own which was a real PITA, so I put a drip tip O-Ring below and I find that it helps keep the setting in place. Hope this helps!
Ahhh! Hey All-
Got my Drop a couple of weeks ago and am working through the thread figuring out all I was doing wrong. Thanks Randy and Willie and all for the pics and tutorials! I was completely wrong wicking. Things should go better now. I do dig the Drop. It's my first venture in RTAs and I'm very happy with it.
Couldn't you incorporate Willie's bridge wicks with Randy's more minimal wicking? As in wick as Randy did, juicing and shaping and then juice and shape two bridge wicks. Would that give the same effect? I'm gonna give it a whirl this weekend. I tried Willie's method a couple of days ago but I'm pretty sure I used too much cotton in there. Still trying to get a feel for wicking on an RTA. RDA wicking is a lot easier.
So I had my Lemo running great for about 5 tanks full. Then I decided to recoil and rewick, the same exact way I did before, and now my taste is just off. It's got that slight cotton taste and I rewicked it about 6 times last night, same result. But I thought abou it this morning and I think I had a 3mm coil in there before and I did a 2.4mm. I'm going to try Willies bridge wicking, looks interesting.
Just keep in mind for the bridges keep them away from your coil and away from the air hole, I keep mine between the lower chimney and coil mounting screws and not in contact with the coil like on a chimney coil.
Although chimney coils work quite well in the Lemo too, especally when used with work hardened Ni200
But to me is a PITA to wick.
Now after you trim your wick above the chimney, how exactly do you put it on the build deck? Do you fold the top and kind of push the ends down? I know I've tried to fold it but it's almost impossible unless it's super long.
EDIT: Also, which air hole? The one under the coil, or the liquid channel holes?
liquid channels are for liquid, the airhole he means is the one under the coil, keep that clear so you don't accidentally suck up the wick and swallow it.
Yes I gently flold it over, and push it in as best as I can trying to get the ends resting on the lower deck, but not obstructing the juice channels thus the reason for my homemade juice channel tool to block the channel while wicking.
Yes air flow under the coil
Yes air flow under the coil
Well I know that. He was saying don't obstruct the air holes with the bridge wick, but I was thinking how would you even do that? lol
Kgb7 posted a great example of what I did here but used rayon I think. http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/rebuildable-atomizer-systems/601945-lemo-rta-build-pics-171.html#post14958955
So on my lunch break, I rewicked like you did Willie, and I think it turned out great. At first I thought that it wasn't tasting the same as it did before, but I think now I'm actually getting the taste of the juice. Maybe it was actually off before, but I just didn't know it. It's hard to explain lol.
I mostly drip, and just use an atlantis at work. I wanted to get something I can get a warmer vape off of to use at work, so I got a lemo drop. I'm really trying to like it but the airflow is just too tight for me. (I have adjusted the ring all the way out. ) I like the airflow on the atlantis, but above 30 watts is a no go. Are there and modifications I can make to the lemo? Will just drilling out the airflow on the bottom work? I heard the Billow was pretty airy, and would be willing to trade if anyone was interested 
Willie, for your build did you use 28g or 30g Ni200 (or 28g & 30g twisted together)?
I either use twisted 28/30 or twisted 30/30 but I find I can get twisted 28/30 a bit stiffer and more stable with fewer wraps on spaced coils.
Hmm, will definitely try twisting 28 and 30 whenever the 30gauge wire appears in my postbox. Single 28gauge strand is just waay to finicky and weak. Specially if you try to stuff allot of cotton through it. The coil will bend and re-shape itself to something very crooked/ugly looking.
Edit: How many wraps do you usually use, at what size? and where does the resistance end up?
Edit: How many wraps do you usually use, at what size? and where does the resistance end up?
I normally do a 5/6 wrap on a 3mm mandrel should come out to 0.16 to 0.18 ohms
Try work hardning your wire first, do not dry burn it.
Slowly pre-twist each strand for several seconds using a drill, then use the drill to twist the pair at low speed, this gives you a nice double work hardened twisted wire to work with.
I just spiral my wire around the mandrel 6 times, scrunch it together tight and then let the coil spring back to its relaxed position, mount it tight, wick it, juice it and vape.
I rinse and re-wick once a week using the method I posted a few pages back, the coil should last weeks as long as you don't mangle it up during a re-wicking.
Try work hardning your wire first, do not dry burn it.
Slowly pre-twist each strand for several seconds using a drill, then use the drill to twist the pair at low speed, this gives you a nice double work hardened twisted wire to work with.
I just spiral my wire around the mandrel 6 times, scrunch it together tight and then let the coil spring back to its relaxed position, mount it tight, wick it, juice it and vape.
I rinse and re-wick once a week using the method I posted a few pages back, the coil should last weeks as long as you don't mangle it up during a re-wicking.
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