That never gets old
This may not be constructive but I agree. Always funny.
The Lemo RTA: A Build With Pics
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This may not be constructive but I agree. Always funny.
I posted this in a different thread (DNA40 builds) but thought it could be useful here as well. Simple way to lengthen the 510 because on the Lemo it is recessed pretty far in.........
Great idea. Got me looking for a simpler solution and came up with this which is a much easier method. If you have an old Pro tank coil laying around (what I had), anyone wanting to drop the 510, give this a shot.
Here was the 510 before
I pulled the insulator out of the Pro tank coil
Cut it just under the lip (larger side), creating a perfectly sizedwasher o-ring
Put it on the screw
Tightened it down tight and this is the result
Same result as the other way but far less fiddling with the o-ring. It works great, good call on the insulator foliagegreen
Great idea. Got me looking for a simpler solution and came up with this which is a much easier method. If you have an old Pro tank coil laying around (what I had), anyone wanting to drop the 510, give this a shot.
Here was the 510 before
I pulled the insulator out of the Pro tank coil
Cut it just under the lip (larger side), creating a perfectly sized
Put it on the screw
Tightened it down tight and this is the result
Same result as the other way but far less fiddling with the o-ring. It works great, good call on the insulator foliagegreen
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Looks good, nice resourceful thinking.
But for the people without a pro tank, disassemble the bottom cap, push out the plastic insulator, turn it around press it back in, take an tiny o-ring off of the little screwdriver that comes with the Lemo, install it on the 510 screw, and reassembly, works like a charm.
Great post and with a significantly protruding pos pin it now makes the Lemo "Hybrid Mech Mod" compatible.
Yeah, that was my main reason why I needed it to protrude past the threads.
I was bored today. I had to try building the Lemo again. I added an o-ring to the chimney base. I don't know if it needs it or not. Also stuffed 1 mm silica in the juice channels. That had stopped the excessive juice flow to the coil. I'm finally enjoying it.
I was bored today. I had to try building the Lemo again. I added an o-ring to the chimney base. I don't know if it needs it or not. Also stuffed 1 mm silica in the juice channels. That had stopped the excessive juice flow to the coil. I'm finally enjoying it.
Hmm.. Well, it seems odd to me given my experience, but if it's working well, I say go for it! So glad you're enjoying it now!
Bits scrambled by Tapatalk...
I was bored today. I had to try building the Lemo again. I added an o-ring to the chimney base. I don't know if it needs it or not. Also stuffed 1 mm silica in the juice channels. That had stopped the excessive juice flow to the coil. I'm finally enjoying it.
Are you sure you're not vaping burnt silica?
Truly being a Lemo veteran, I can't see how you could possibly be wicking effectively if you have the juice channels plugged.
My ventures have proven to do just the opposite, keep the juice channels clear or you will get dry hits or in the case of a DNA40 tripping the TP, and/or dry muted flavor.
But hey whatever rocks your vape.
If you are using silica as a wick, I can see how you might have flooding issues. Silica does not wick as effectively as cotton or rayon in this type of system, it just doesn't cover as much surface area. Silica, IMO, works best in systems where it designed to be directly exposed the the liquid in the tank and doesn't have to wick very far. In a chambered vacuum system I just don't think the silica can rest properly to catch the juice being fed in through the channels.
And that is why he put the wick down into the channels so they came in contact with the juice... seems like it should work that way just fine using silica
I posted this in a different thread (DNA40 builds) but thought it could be useful here as well. Simple way to lengthen the 510 because on the Lemo it is recessed pretty far in.........
Great idea. Got me looking for a simpler solution and came up with this which is a much easier method. If you have an old Pro Tank coil laying around (what I had), anyone wanting to drop the 510, give this a shot.
Here was the 510 before
View attachment 403036
I pulled the insulator out of the Pro Tank coil
View attachment 403037
Cut it just under the lip (larger side), creating a perfectly sizedwashero-ring
View attachment 403039
Put it on the screw
View attachment 403041
Tightened it down tight and this is the result
View attachment 403042
Same result as the other way but far less fiddling with the o-ring. It works great, good call on the insulator foliagegreen
My first lemo would not fire on my mod because the (Lemo's)pin wasn't out far enough. All I did was unscrew it out a bit and its been fine ever since. Was I not supposed to do that? Or did you do it your way because your pin needed to be out farther than mine? Mine is basically flush now, but that's enough to make it fire on the P3.
I did the same thing on my VaporShark. But because it was no longer snug, I was getting intermittent connection issues. Doing it this way keeps the screw snug and secure while extending it. If it's working for you, no worries. I think I'm gonna try this though! Fantastic idea!
Bits scrambled by Tapatalk...
so i was thinking of trying a duel coil build in the lemo. what I.D. would you guys recommend to use?
I wanted to do a 1/8" when I built my last few sets of duals, but blocked most airflow from what i could see. I built 3/32" for my last 2 duals and with some adjustment it allowed enough airflow.
Well. I'm happy. I was bored and rooting through my vaping boxes, came across the spare parts that came with my Kayfun and Russian 91%. My Lemo box fell into my lap (It had a stripped screw set that wouldn't hold worth a damn on the negative post), and happened to eyeball a couple of different ones. The Russian post screws were actually much beefier on the threading than the Lemo's so I figured I'd give them a try - VOILA. Screws down securely and tight. She's up and running with a 0.8ohm 26 gauge coil.
I've done duals using 2.2mm ID coils. As luck would have it, a piece of coat hanger measures right at 2.2mm.
I wouldn't recommend it, simply unscrewing it leaves the screw loose. I needed it past the threading for my hybrid mech mod, because the battery is pushing on that 510 pin directly every time I fire it. I was worried it would slowly push the pin further into the threading until the battery made contact with the bottom of the threads. Also, on the DNA40 a loose 510 pin can lead to erratic readings. So in both ways my Lemo's get used I needed/wanted a longer pin, but it needed to be snug as well.
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