The build deck on the Delta II looks identical to the Lemo.
While I think that's great, it also means I have no real need for a Delta II.
I have 3 Lemos and no interest in buying pre-built coils.
The Lemo RTA: A Build With Pics
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The build deck on the Delta II looks identical to the Lemo.
While I think that's great, it also means I have no real need for a Delta II.
I have 3 Lemos and no interest in buying pre-built coils.
I feel the same, but part of me compels me to explore alternatives, if for no other reason than to prove the Lemo is still the king
Would be nice if they updated the lemo to have the AFC of the melo. It'll appeal to folks who prefer to tone down the airflow.
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I think that with the current AFC on the Lemo allowing you to close it down as much as you want, they should really open up the base more to allow a little more airflow for people like me that want it. I already emailed them and suggested they use slots instead of holes in the base and they replied back promptly saying it will be mentioned to the engineers.
Kudos to them for replying!!!
Haha I mean I love the lemo and I remove the AFC ring completely on all of mine. But the fact that some folks have had to use an oring fix to stabilize the AFC ring imo means there's at least a certain degree of deficiency in the design. That's how I see it at least.
Personally I want moreeee airflowwww
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I agree that the AFC on the Lemo is a short coming, which had me second guessing myself on whether or not I'd try out a Delta II (Heck, the price is right), but I am not looking for more airflow personally, and after realizing I almost never touch the AFC on the Lemo, quickly squashed the idea again.
Who am I kidding? I'll probably buy one.....just because.
I was so trained to think that the lower you can build, the better the production. When I got the Lemo I thought, great, I can finally build those .8 builds I could never do in the KF. Then I saw an older post by rusirius the other day that really opened my eyes. I never had any experience with mods over 20 watts, other than mechs, before I got my rDNA40. While lower coils leading to better production holds true for mechs, it is just the opposite for regulated, to a degree. Most of you with experience on 30 watt+ devices probably already know this, but the production (flavor and vapor) using a 28g 1.8Ω coil at 32 watts far exceeds a 26g .8Ω at 23 watts. I mean it is a huge difference on the Lemo.
If you didn't see the post by rusirius and you still have the mindset that lower resistance means better production on regulated mods, you should check out that post.
28g 1.8Ω was the biggest spaced coil (10 wraps I think) I could comfortably get in the Lemo and it will be my go to build using kanthal from now on. The Lemo has no problems keeping up at 32 watts, but it was a little to warm for my liking, so I have been at 30 watts.
If you didn't see the post by rusirius and you still have the mindset that lower resistance means better production on regulated mods, you should check out that post.
28g 1.8Ω was the biggest spaced coil (10 wraps I think) I could comfortably get in the Lemo and it will be my go to build using kanthal from now on. The Lemo has no problems keeping up at 32 watts, but it was a little to warm for my liking, so I have been at 30 watts.
Haha I've been dumping 40W on a 26ga 1.4 ohm build on one of my lemo. Damn good vape.
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Is there a diagram with o-rings anywhere? One black one popped off from somewhere..I have two on the part that connects to the chimney, is there a third?
Liking the Lemo so far, stock build was really good on mine. Just getting to the point where I'm matching/surpassing that, complete noob. Had a couple disasters learning to build on it, probably a few more left. I do wish I could top fill...without risk haha
Liking the Lemo so far, stock build was really good on mine. Just getting to the point where I'm matching/surpassing that, complete noob. Had a couple disasters learning to build on it, probably a few more left. I do wish I could top fill...without risk haha
two black o-rings on the drip tip
thought there was only one on the top part of the chimney but there may be two
thought there was only one on the top part of the chimney but there may be two
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My Lemo Drop has only one on the chimney top. I have found it often leaks around that chimney top after a rinse. The o-ring is actually stretched a bit when placed over the threads and seated. Sometimes, when screwing and unscrewing the chimney top, that o-ring can get turned or twisted, which can cause the top to leak like a sieve.What I do is watch the top closely after the first few drops of liquid when filling. If its gonna leak, for me anyway, it leaks right away and pretty bad. If its leaking I stop, rinse and then reset the o-ring. This has fixed the leaking on 3 different occasions for me, still using the original o-ring it came with.
I notice on here some people have leaking at the top and others never, perhaps it's a manufacturing issue? Or maybe, the o-ring is just a bit too thin, which is what I suspect. A very slight variance (like a .01 millimeter) in thread sizes with a gasket/o-ring that small can make all the difference in the world. That's my opinion anyway, I work QA in a CNC environment, and it always surprises me how much difference a hundredth or thousandth can make.
I notice on here some people have leaking at the top and others never, perhaps it's a manufacturing issue? Or maybe, the o-ring is just a bit too thin, which is what I suspect. A very slight variance (like a .01 millimeter) in thread sizes with a gasket/o-ring that small can make all the difference in the world. That's my opinion anyway, I work QA in a CNC environment, and it always surprises me how much difference a hundredth or thousandth can make.
How beig is the problem with the 510 pin not protruding out of the housing. And how do you put the Oring in if you need to. Which one is it I have several repair kits for the KFL never had to use one.
I have the Lemo Drop and regular Lemo scheduled to arrive today. Can't wait to get home and start using them.
It is a big issue on some devices and doesn't make a difference on others. The rDNA40 doesn't need it protruding, but on my Hana clone it has really helped, on my SMPL mech it is a must. I did it on all my Lemo's because it can only help and on devices like the VS that don't really need it, there is no downside.
Someone has alrdy answered the first...
But. The oring you'll want is the 1mm cross section, and 2mm inner diameter
It's the tiny tiny oring commonly found in the kfl and russian 91 spares kit, and was originally intended for use on the refilling screw, or in the case of the russian 91, was for the adjustable 510
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All of this talk about leaking and having to use orings I hope I didn't make a mistake ordering 2 of them instead of the Kanger subtank. I figured I would only use the Kanger in RBA mode anyway I might as well get one that is a true RTA.
The best place for a Kanger is the warehouse it's setting in.
Don't listen to the babbling about leaks, I have 6 Lemo's and none leak ever even in my pockets.
Don't listen to the babbling about leaks, I have 6 Lemo's and none leak ever even in my pockets.
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