The Lemo RTA: A Build With Pics

[2legsshrt]

Cutting the wick even with the top of the chimney is a pretty good rule of thumb to follow. By cutting even with the chimney you are sort of "pre-measuring" the wick length so when you gently tuck it down toward the juice channels it won't be excessively long or short -- rather a happy in between. When re-wicking my Lemo (or Kayfun for that matter) I don't pay a tremendous amount of attention to the juice holes. I simply make sure the wick is evenly placed and not stuffed in a juice channel. I happen to use a pair of blunt nosed tweezers, but you can use just about any tool that will allow you to move the wick around. There was and maybe still is at a debate about how much cotton to use. I'm assuming you are using cotton -- hope that's OK. At first peeps said "less is better" then it came around to "more is better". I think the safest thing to do is make sure you aren't "pressing" the wick down so it might occlude a juice channel.
I've tried to screw up a re-wicking and it is somewhat hard to do. I used little wick or a ton of it as long as if fit through the coil without deforming or moving it. It's not as bad as it sounds. What you read are people talking about different ways to skin the cat, but generally they all work. Hope this was not too convoluted of an answer.....

No I understand. Pretty basically a cross between the way I do my KFL's and my V4. Just make sure the ends of the wick get down there first. Just wanted to check if there was any trick to these but it sound pretty basically like the rest of my RTA's, Thanks for responding. As soon as I get them I am going to set one up with an NI200 coil that I have already experimented with making. Twisted 32awg NI200 8 wraps at 3mm spaced. Figure it can't be too tight or it will deform the coil. Comes out at .2ohms. I get my Vapor Shark hopefully Sat and my Lemos tomorrow. I'm hoping to hit it first time but if I don't I won't be too disappointed.

 

[horton]

No I understand. Pretty basically a cross between the way I do my KFL's and my V4. Just make sure the ends of the wick get down there first. Just wanted to check if there was any trick to these but it sound pretty basically like the rest of my RTA's, Thanks for responding. As soon as I get them I am going to set one up with an NI200 coil that I have already experimented with making. Twisted 32awg NI200 8 wraps at 3mm spaced. Figure it can't be too tight or it will deform the coil. Comes out at .2ohms. I get my Vapor Shark hopefully Sat and my Lemos tomorrow. I'm hoping to hit it first time but if I don't I won't be too disappointed.

No tricks at least for me. I do it the same as my Kayfuns. Sure you can overdo it with too much or too little wicking, but my contention is that you really have to try to screw up setting one of these devices up. Sometimes we tend to over think things and I know I did exactly that when I did my first Kayfun setup. I looked at it from every angle I could think of, used a ruler to get the length right, stuck the wick to the base with juice, etc. Luckily in spite of myself the setup worked....lol. After that I became more and more complacent and didn't pay as close attention to the setup. I realized one day that the Kayfun still worked like a champ. It was then that the light bulb went on and I realized that these devices were so very forgiving. I do not mean to dismiss problems people report -- I know there are issues and things that don't go right. But overall, these bottom feeding devices are pretty darn easy to work with.
Never tried the NI builds..... are they worth it? I don't have any super high wattage devices so I'm curious as to whether I should be getting more interested or stick with Kanthan A1.

 

[2legsshrt]

No tricks at least for me. I do it the same as my Kayfuns. Sure you can overdo it with too much or too little wicking, but my contention is that you really have to try to screw up setting one of these devices up. Sometimes we tend to over think things and I know I did exactly that when I did my first Kayfun setup. I looked at it from every angle I could think of, used a ruler to get the length right, stuck the wick to the base with juice, etc. Luckily in spite of myself the setup worked....lol. After that I became more and more complacent and didn't pay as close attention to the setup. I realized one day that the Kayfun still worked like a champ. It was then that the light bulb went on and I realized that these devices were so very forgiving. I do not mean to dismiss problems people report -- I know there are issues and things that don't go right. But overall, these bottom feeding devices are pretty darn easy to work with.
Never tried the NI builds..... are they worth it? I don't have any super high wattage devices so I'm curious as to whether I should be getting more interested or stick with Kanthan A1.

I honestly don't know this is going to be my first. I just have Provari's and Kayfuns. I did get a Kanger Subohm and it is like a KF but bigger. I have never used the subohm heads and don't intend to but this temp control has me intrigued so I want to give it a try. Oh I should say I got a KF V4 a real one and I am very impressed with that. Had it about 2 months now and it is by far my favorite device. Never had a problem with it other then it doesn't hold much juice but it is easy to fill. I resisted getting a clone too many problems. The price was high but it is worth it. I did get 1 EH Pro KFL its ok but a little tighter then the real thing.

 

[novamatt]

No tricks at least for me. I do it the same as my Kayfuns. Sure you can overdo it with too much or too little wicking, but my contention is that you really have to try to screw up setting one of these devices up. Sometimes we tend to over think things and I know I did exactly that when I did my first Kayfun setup. I looked at it from every angle I could think of, used a ruler to get the length right, stuck the wick to the base with juice, etc. Luckily in spite of myself the setup worked....lol. After that I became more and more complacent and didn't pay as close attention to the setup. I realized one day that the Kayfun still worked like a champ. It was then that the light bulb went on and I realized that these devices were so very forgiving. I do not mean to dismiss problems people report -- I know there are issues and things that don't go right. But overall, these bottom feeding devices are pretty darn easy to work with.
Never tried the NI builds..... are they worth it? I don't have any super high wattage devices so I'm curious as to whether I should be getting more interested or stick with Kanthan A1.

You can't use NI with a normal setup. It's only used with the DNA40's temp control system. An NI coil is typically around 0.15 ohms.

 

[horton]

You can't use NI with a normal setup. It's only used with the DNA40's temp control system. An NI coil is typically around 0.15 ohms.

Thanks nova and legs..... the .15Ω puts me out of the game....lol. I don't have anything I could safely use at that level. I'll have to be satisfied reading what you guys do. I'm happy with my current collection of stuff and unless there is an earth shaking new concept that's where I'll probably remain. I must be honest and admit that the VV/VW box mods do interest me. Sometimes I feel like a kid in a candy store with so many choices and only the change grandma gave me to get some penny candy..,... .....and those mods are priced more like large Whitman (sp?) samplers.....

 

[WeirdWillie]

Thanks nova and legs..... the .15Ω puts me out of the game....lol. I don't have anything I could safely use at that level. I'll have to be satisfied reading what you guys do. I'm happy with my current collection of stuff and unless there is an earth shaking new concept that's where I'll probably remain. I must be honest and admit that the VV/VW box mods do interest me. Sometimes I feel like a kid in a candy store with so many choices and only the change grandma gave me to get some penny candy..,... .....and those mods are priced more like large Whitman (sp?) samplers.....

Horton, If you can ever get your hands on a DNA40, you'll find flavors in your juices you didn't know were possible.

 

[whiteweazel21]

Pardon me I'm new, but what's the best way to periodically clean these bad boys?

Can I throw it in boiling water, with o-rings removed? Or throw it in some rubbing alcohol, then throw it in hot water, and then rinse/agitate in warm water? I feel the need to do a thorough cleaning.

Thanks

 

[horton]

Horton, If you can ever get your hands on a DNA40, you'll find flavors in your juices you didn't know were possible.

I hear what you are saying. From what I've seen of the DNA40's they are like supercharged vaporizers. I'm sort of a VW kind a guy -- happily putting along holding back traffic on the hills.....lol. I keep wondering how well I'd tolerate the hotter vapor. I'm a flavor chaser and it does make me wonder how my juices would taste @ lower Ω's. Maybe one of these days...... I have the Lemo, just need the "power unit".
Thanks for your comment.....

 

[horton]

Pardon me I'm new, but what's the best way to periodically clean these bad boys?
Can I throw it in boiling water, with o-rings removed? Or throw it in some rubbing alcohol, then throw it in hot water, and then rinse/agitate in warm water? I feel the need to do a thorough cleaning.
Thanks

Are you talking about routine cleaning between tanks or flavor changes? Or cleaning a brand new one? I tend to be more thorough with a new device taking all the 0-rings off and giving it a good hot water cleaning and even adding some Dawn if I smell machine oil or the materials feel oily. Don't use too much Dawn or you will have a suds fest!! I then rinse thoroughly and pat dry with a towel then let the parts sit out to finish drying. (you don't have to let them sit if you want to get going)
If I'm cleaning one I've used before, I just rinse off with hot water and dry. I don't bother removing the 0-rings. The only reason I would be more thorough with a "used" one is if I had some flavor that was not going away with the hot water rinse.
Hope this helps a little.... I'm sure others will chime in with more ideas......

 

[whiteweazel21]

Well I've had it flood a few times as I'm using it as my learning RTA for building. I think the AFC may be coated, maybe the airhole as well. So just want to do a thorough cleaning. I didn't do a very thorough cleaning when I bought it, but I did wash in hot water and blow dry -- figure I should give it a good clean. Does the big screw that holds the valve changing air control come out? I've never touched it but it does have a an indent for a flat screw driver.

Thanks

 

[WeirdWillie]

Pardon me I'm new, but what's the best way to periodically clean these bad boys?

Can I throw it in boiling water, with o-rings removed? Or throw it in some rubbing alcohol, then throw it in hot water, and then rinse/agitate in warm water? I feel the need to do a thorough cleaning.

Thanks

I wouldn't use alcohol on any of it especially the rubber/silicone.
Once a month I completely dissemble and boil mine for 5 mins SS, Pyrex, o-rings and all never had a problem with any of the 6 I have.

 

[cjpeltz]

Pardon me I'm new, but what's the best way to periodically clean these bad boys?

Can I throw it in boiling water, with o-rings removed? Or throw it in some rubbing alcohol, then throw it in hot water, and then rinse/agitate in warm water? I feel the need to do a thorough cleaning.

Thanks

I use an ultrasonic cleaner that i bought from amazon. Same ones you use fot jewelry. with warm water. Works like a charm.

 

[Tomso]

As we are on cleaning subject, I was about to clean mine when I noticed some juice on top of chimney. Is this normal or does oring need to be replaced? I checked the oring and after close examination, the only thing I'm sure of is that I need glasses.

 

[WeirdWillie]

As we are on cleaning subject, I was about to clean mine when I noticed some juice on top of chimney. Is this normal or does oring need to be replaced? I checked the oring and after close examination, the only thing I'm sure of is that I need glasses. View attachment 406023

It's fine, most likely got there when you had it upside down filling it, and you didn't clean it up before putting your drip tip back on.

 

[VaPreis]

As we are on cleaning subject, I was about to clean mine when I noticed some juice on top of chimney. Is this normal or does oring need to be replaced? I checked the oring and after close examination, the only thing I'm sure of is that I need glasses. View attachment 406023

Normal condensation that collects under the drip tip.

 

[WeirdWillie]

Normal condensation that collects under the drip tip.

Could also be from some of that sizzle sizzle pop pop

 

[2legsshrt]

You can't use NI with a normal setup. It's only used with the DNA40's temp control system. An NI coil is typically around 0.15 ohms.

Thats one good thing about waiting for a month for your Vapor Shark a chance to read and watch a lot of videos from EVOLV and many other places about it. I almost feel like I've been doing it. There is a ton of good info out there and I've been taking advantage of it. So I'm not going into this blind. I have it all planned in my mind. Hope it works first time out. If not I have some temp sensing heads for my Nautilus's

 

[2legsshrt]

Heres some info for you if you didn't receive it in email.

A Look at Formaldehyde Levels Found in E-Cig Vapor

Recently we reported on a story out of Japan evaluating levels of formaldehyde released through vaping. Yesterday another study on this same topic was published in the New England Journal of Medicine and has been picked up by mainstream media. In this study, researchers measured formaldehyde using a variable voltage battery set at 3.3 and 5 volts. The vapor was collected and evaluated from an unnamed atomizer after a 4 second puff. The study found that at low voltage (3.3V) no formaldehyde was detected. However, at high voltage (5.0V), levels of formaldehyde were detected at levels up to 15 times higher than cigarette smoke.

Without further investigation on the methods and conclusion of this study, the results are very alarming. We feel it is our responsibility to dig deeper and provide the public with the whole truth.

One glaring problem with this publication is the researchers found formaldehyde hemiacetals (a combination of formaldehyde and alcohols) not formaldehyde. It is also important to know that formaldehyde is present everywhere. It is found in every person, smokers and nonsmokers alike, and can occur anytime hydrogen, carbon, and oxygen are in the presence of each other.

The truth is, this study is deeply flawed in many ways. In fact, it is highly irresponsible to publish a half truth and present it as science. For starters, as outlined by Dr. Konstantino Farsalinos, the authors of this study failed to mention (perhaps unknowingly) that volts do not measure thermal energy. Energy should be expressed in watts. Therefore, with the published information we do not know how many watts were applied to the atomizer.

Fortunately, Dr. Farsalinos used the information that was provided to approximate wattage settings. According to the study, 5mg of e-liquid were consumed at 3.3 volts. Based on measurements performed by Farsalinos, “…such consumption is observed at about 6-7 watts at 4-second puffs. Thus, the atomizer resistance is probably 1.6-1.8 ohms. This means that at 5 volts the energy was around 14-16 watts.”

So, what does this mean in terms of realistic user conditions? If the resistance was between 1.6-1.8 ohms and the wattage is somewhere between 14-16 watts, the vaporizer is being overheated and the wicking material is being burned. Essentially, these researchers are collecting data on a dry or burnt hit.

What the authors of this study aren’t accounting for is how easily this scenario is detected by the user. An electronic cigarette user would never vape at these settings. No one continuously vapes an overheated atomizer. The taste is unpleasant, to put it mildly. Therefore, no vaper will ever be exposed to the reported levels of formaldehyde.

We can’t wait to get these in your hands! We know you’ll be quite pleased as your rDNA 40s begin to arrive in early January. All orders currently processing will ship within the next few weeks. No more backorders!

This method of measuring aldehydes in a lab environment is deceptive and unfair. The public deserves clear and concise results from scientific studies. If researchers continue to publish misleading findings and the media continues with its sensationalism the results can be damaging. How many smokers are afraid to switch to a device that could potentially save their lives?

For a more detailed breakdown on this study, I urge you to read Dr. Farsalinos’ response by following this link: Electronic Cigarette | www.ecigarette-research.com

 

[2legsshrt]

Double post Sorry

 

[MidwestGuy]

Hahaha It's called P.F.M pure freeking magic.
Awesome isn't it?
I tried just a standard wick method again in one of my Lemo's yesterday and vaped it about 10 minutes before I found myself draining the tank and adding bridges.

Just realized another benefit ... my coils and cotton were still shiny new and clean when I went to replace the cotton... the bridging method + DNA40 = Pure Freekin Magic for sure. 7 wrap Ni200 30awg with ~3.2 inner diameter wicked and bridged with KGD. Temp set to between 400 and 420 depending on the liquid, wattage between 16 and 19 depending on the liquid as well. Lovely flavorful CLEAN clouds of consistent vapor. Loving it!!

ETA: Not particularly "clean" liquids in the past either. I typically re-wick for each refill. I'll bet I could get 2-3 tanks on a single liquid now (still like to re-wick on a flavor change).