The Lemo RTA: A Build With Pics

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newphreak

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Oct 15, 2014
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RandyF: Yes, luckily or sadly enough. I've taken everything apart and cleaned the heck out of all the connections and parts. And lost the damn isolation spacer for the bottom cap in the sink. So found an o-ring that's too fat and squeezed it to the point it bulges out everywhere, but now it seems to work. So on monday I'll grab lots of different sized o-rings to find something that fits the bottom cap perfectly to make a good connection. But now I have a kanthal coil in it, because I didn't want to waste the little ni200 i have left on "debugging".
Anyhow, even the kanthal build seems to jump a little. (From 0.79ohm to 0.81ohm)
But seems consistent with the other ohm reader as well, so I'll deem this fit for duty again and slap a nickel coil in it tomorrow.
 

sahsah

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No the chimney holds the glass tank in place so u can't remove it to expose the coils and drip that way ... But that doesn't mean u can't drop drops down the drip tip and vape that way but filling is so easy, y not just fill the tank


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No, he's not saying to remove the chimney, I believe he's asking if after removing his drip tip, being that the Lemo has quite a wide chimney, if he could just drop a couple drops down it and have it land on the coil below/within. And the answer is yes, I've seen it done, but why would you want to, when you could just use it as intended with a tank full of juice...?
 

sahsah

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Does anyone set their coils on their lemo diagonally as oppose to the regular horizontal way?


Ive made it a habit to build my coils diagonally on my kayfun deck and set the tail ends of the wick on the deck.
Could you possibly link a photo? I'm not sure I understand what you mean...
 

KGB7

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i was just thinking, maybe do a vertical coil.
or
you try WeirdWillie bridge method but with more cotton like newphreak's :




The reason why i think one of these would work. Is you would have more cotton holding more juice and in return it would allow the juice to help keep your tank cooler.

just an idea i don't if it would work, but its worth a shot.


Yeah im using the Navy Nest.

If you look in the manual of the Sig100+ you will see that it has over heating protection. So when the tank gets too hot it wont fire.
 

VaPreis

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Could you possibly link a photo? I'm not sure I understand what you mean...

This is a pic I googled of a diagonal coil on Kayfun (similar build deck):

ZbabBD5.png


It is almost intuitive to mount the coil diagonally, particularly if it's a longer coil. However, I don't mount mine this way because I don't like elbows in my wicking, and prefer to fan the tails out across the deck. Mounting the coil straight, with the ends facing the liquid wells, makes this easier.
 

narrdarr

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Yeah im using the Navy Nest.

If you look in the manual of the Sig100+ you will see that it has over heating protection. So when the tank gets too hot it wont fire.

yes i know it has overheating protection. but what im saying is it odd that your set-up get that hot as mine never does.
 

Brandon David

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Just got my Lemo Drop today and I'm enjoying the airy vape. I've only read the first 60 pages of this 219 page thread but wanted to ask if there is a way to work on the coil without dumping the tank.

No-- that's one of the few downfalls of this tank. However, the juice can be sucked out beforehand through the fill hole.

I've been an advocate of the Lemo since acquiring my drop. However, I'm on to comparing its performance with 2 more tanks in the coming days. There's a goblin in the mail heading my way and I'm most likely ordering a Delta II tonight or tomorrow with a store credit I have from vapordna. I haven't found anything that can compete with my drop so far. Some tanks have slightly better airflow but sacrifice a bit of flavor as a consequence. Thus far, the lemo is still king as far as I'm concerned.

I can't wait for version 2.


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cigatron

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Probably because i chain vape more frequently and not giving time for it too cool down.

Could be your chain vaping style but there are other factors which contribute to overheating. Some factors are obvious and others not so much.

Too high wattage setting, to weak of draw effort and under wicked are more obvious. Too low wattage setting, too high PG ratio, irregular coil symmetry and/or over compressed contact coil are less obvious but contribute to overheating in a big way.

Too low wattage setting: coil floods causing reduced vapor production. Less vapor production provides less cooling.

Too high pg ratio: pg has a lower boiling point but also runs from heat and can negatively effect juice transport to the coil.

Irregular coil symmetry: coil symmetry is vital to consistent wick compression/deflection against the inside of the coil. Shifted, diametrically irregular or longitudinally irregular coil geometry can overly compress the wick in one area of the coil while under compressing in another causing thermal hot spots.

Overly compressed contact coil: winding contact coils with too much tension or bias angle can put the coil turns in too high of a state of compressive strain. That is, the turns are pressing together with such force that when the alumina forms during pulsing it lacks the abundance of intercrystalline voids necessary for juice and vapor transport. The highest compressive force will occur at the center of the coil and it is there that you can observe the inadequate presence of juice when firing a wicked and juiced coil. Have a look while pulsing; if you're not seeing boiling juice coming forth between each turn your coil could be suffering from over compression.

Good luck

:)cig
 
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Kloudz

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.7 at 24 watts is right in the edge of the Lemo's possibilities, so don't be surprised if a longer draw ends with a dry wick. I just made the same coil recently and had to take it off my mech and put it on the VS at 21 watts. Next one will be .8 so I can put it back on my mech.

I have the draw wide open and pull it hard, I've never experienced any dry hits.
 

WeirdWillie

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When I was using kanthal my favorite was a single parallel 28ga 3mm, ID micro coil using the post holes at 0.6-0.7 ohms 25-30 watts depending on the liquid/flavor I was running.

With Ni200 I prefer a spaced 6/5 wrap work hardened twisted 28/30ga 0.18-0.19 @ 30 watts and between 400° and 430° depending on liquid/flavor.

If you follow my bridge wicking method you can run up to 80% VG at 80 watts without a dry hit, I've done it, not my cup of tea but it can be done.
 

2legsshrt

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Just got my Lemos and going to do an NI200 coil on it this afternoon. I closed the air down considerably maybe 1 1/2 to 2 turns from closed. Will they stay there, It is awfully loose. I think they could've done something better there. I like a pretty open draw but not as open as this will go. More like the Kanger with 2 holes open.
 
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