You could try putting it in the freezer, then put some heat to the chimney base only.
It may expand, and free it up.
The Lemo RTA: A Build With Pics
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You could try putting it in the freezer, then put some heat to the chimney base only.
It may expand, and free it up.
I've had trouble with my Kayfuns not unscrewing and destroying my hands by trying to get it apart. This method has worked for me in the past with the Kayfuns so I'm not sure if it will work similarly but you could try it as a last resort.
Fill the chimney or tank area with some water, maybe try to keep it just inside the atomizer base if possible. Place the tank inside your freezer while sitting upright so the water doesn't move around and leave it in there until it starts turning into ice. At this point, you can try unscrewing it as the ice will expand the part a little. You don't have to wait till the water becomes completely frozen as it might be harder to unscrew but if that happens, just let it melt a little.
Fill the chimney or tank area with some water, maybe try to keep it just inside the atomizer base if possible. Place the tank inside your freezer while sitting upright so the water doesn't move around and leave it in there until it starts turning into ice. At this point, you can try unscrewing it as the ice will expand the part a little. You don't have to wait till the water becomes completely frozen as it might be harder to unscrew but if that happens, just let it melt a little.
mine chimneys has been been sticking together lately too.
i dont know what they are called, but they are the non slide martial for counter top or cabinets. i have to pieces the size of my hand. i use one in each hand and unscrew as normal.
i dont know what they are called, but they are the non slide martial for counter top or cabinets. i have to pieces the size of my hand. i use one in each hand and unscrew as normal.
Finally figured out a solution for the issues I've been having with my Lemo Drop making a stable connection to my Vapor Shark rDNA-40. Granted, it worked just fine with kanthal builds, but my Nickel builds were jumping all over on an intermittent basis.
Completely disassembled my Lemo Drop and took a long look at no only the 510 connection, but the internal connection with the bottom of the airflow post. I realized that the machining for the flat head screw slow on the airflow post had some burrs along the edge. Got out a diamond file and smoothed these off, as well as polished it up. Did the same thing to the metal surface it contacts with in the bottom cap.
I then re-assembled the airflow post, but didn't remember which way the ~1mm thick insulating washer was supposed to go in, so I tried it both ways. Found that if I put it in with the rounded side down, it actually made the airflow post extend just a hair more (thus ensuring a better connection).
Put it all back together using a rubber washer underneath the 510 pin to get that to extend just a bit more too. I have found that mine is actually recessed into the 510 shell without it.
All said and done, I've had no connection issues for two days. I think it was a combination of the burr on the airflow post and the tighter connection, but even after filling it, no issues (which is when I used to have to fiddle with it a lot).
I am now fully satisfied with my Lemo Drop. No leaking issues and finally a solid connection!
Completely disassembled my Lemo Drop and took a long look at no only the 510 connection, but the internal connection with the bottom of the airflow post. I realized that the machining for the flat head screw slow on the airflow post had some burrs along the edge. Got out a diamond file and smoothed these off, as well as polished it up. Did the same thing to the metal surface it contacts with in the bottom cap.
I then re-assembled the airflow post, but didn't remember which way the ~1mm thick insulating washer was supposed to go in, so I tried it both ways. Found that if I put it in with the rounded side down, it actually made the airflow post extend just a hair more (thus ensuring a better connection).
Put it all back together using a rubber washer underneath the 510 pin to get that to extend just a bit more too. I have found that mine is actually recessed into the 510 shell without it.
All said and done, I've had no connection issues for two days. I think it was a combination of the burr on the airflow post and the tighter connection, but even after filling it, no issues (which is when I used to have to fiddle with it a lot).
I am now fully satisfied with my Lemo Drop. No leaking issues and finally a solid connection!
A little thing I noticed that may help with the lemo/lemo drop leaking issues some have had. The glass tank on my lemo drop has slightly different edge work on one side. For instance if you look closely at the glass edge work (especially in refractive or reflective lighting) you see one side is slightly more rounded than the other. At first I assumed it was a manufacturing error and chalked it up as the price of a cheaper device. However after noticing the device leaking if the more rounded edge was to the top, I now believe it may have been designed that way to allow the device to be unscrewed without ruining the gaskets on the base and upper section. Polished Glass tends to grip rubber or silicone gaskets very well, while less polished glass grips less effectively. Add in a more flat contact area on one side versus the other and when under pressure the less contact area will allow for slippage, where the more contact area will not. I noticed this little issue because I work QA in a glass producing facility and It's kind of 2nd nature to me.
So, if your glass tank section has one side slightly flatter than the other, try placing the flatter edge of glass towards the top of your tank when screwing it together. I have found zero leaks, no matter how full i fill it, if the flatter side is up, and it leaks more often than not if reversed. I'm thinking the flatter side towards the top allows more contact area on the upper gasket, where the vacuum pressure would be most likely to effect... Or I'm just over analyzing, which is entirely possible. But give it a try, it does wonders for my experience with the device.
So, if your glass tank section has one side slightly flatter than the other, try placing the flatter edge of glass towards the top of your tank when screwing it together. I have found zero leaks, no matter how full i fill it, if the flatter side is up, and it leaks more often than not if reversed. I'm thinking the flatter side towards the top allows more contact area on the upper gasket, where the vacuum pressure would be most likely to effect... Or I'm just over analyzing, which is entirely possible. But give it a try, it does wonders for my experience with the device.
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Finally got my Lemo in today. Haven't used my Evic Supreme seems like forever, was all excited to try it in hybrid mode with the Lemo. .... Looks great!! As far as the vape goes tho nothing special. Hoping it's just needs some breaking in.
I knew it came with a coil already built and on but there was cotton in mine also. Didn't really think about till afterwards but is it organic cotton that they wick it with? (Maybe that's why I'm not getting that great performance)
Looks freaking great tho on evic in hybrid , still twice as big as any other mod I own...
Excited to try out some of the spiral coils that I purchased. Have a few that are 1ohm and a few at .9 .
Some claptons to, there wrapped to be .4 ohm haven't got a chance to try those yet
I knew it came with a coil already built and on but there was cotton in mine also. Didn't really think about till afterwards but is it organic cotton that they wick it with? (Maybe that's why I'm not getting that great performance)
Looks freaking great tho on evic in hybrid , still twice as big as any other mod I own...
Excited to try out some of the spiral coils that I purchased. Have a few that are 1ohm and a few at .9 .
Some claptons to, there wrapped to be .4 ohm haven't got a chance to try those yet
Occasionally, mine will stick. When that happens, I hold the base, and run the lower chimney section under hot water.
The more you fight with it the worse it gets, so use as light a grip as possible to unscrew the chimney. To much pressure, and I believe it distorts the chimney section compounding the problem.
The same works for separating the upper chimney section from the lower.
Yeah the chimney top on my Drop sticks quite often. I usually over tighten things, so I just assumed it was me. I'll have to give your hot water method a try next time, thx Vapreis
I was able to make a 1 ohm parallel coil, not perfect but it works well. The biggest issue I had was trying to trap the wires under the screw heads. Wish the screw heads were wider. Does anyone know of a place where they sell deck screws for the Lemo with bigger screw heads?
Look up m1.6 cheesehead screws. I use those to trap Clapton coils and Mundy Magic wires
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Hey, thanks for the reply! Would this be good enough? http://www.metricscrews.us/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=98_2&products_id=3&zenid=rpnf1855v7560m2a7hlla78oj7
If it is good enough, I just hope it doesn't rust.
Should be fine! I bought mine back when the first KFL came out so I can't rmb where I got mine from
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Decided to order the Kayfun deck screws from Fatdaddyvapes. I believe they are m1.6 x 3mm, and also heard that kayfun deck screws can be used on the Lemo deck, is that true?
I know my reply is a little late but thanks for the info, I finally pulled the trigger tonight. I was trying to wait for a deal but with free shipping this seems to be the best deal right now and it will be nice to have something more suited to Ni200 coils than my kfl.
Use the coupon code pegasus from them for 8% off aswell!!!
I just got mine today and its hitting beautifully! I think i need to lower my nic content down to 6 actually @___@ and im vaping on 9 right now and normally vape 12-18.
Could be your chain vaping style but there are other factors which contribute to overheating. Some factors are obvious and others not so much.
Too high wattage setting, to weak of draw effort and under wicked are more obvious. Too low wattage setting, too high PG ratio, irregular coil symmetry and/or over compressed contact coil are less obvious but contribute to overheating in a big way.
Too low wattage setting: coil floods causing reduced vapor production. Less vapor production provides less cooling.
Too high pg ratio: pg has a lower boiling point but also runs from heat and can negatively effect juice transport to the coil.
Irregular coil symmetry: coil symmetry is vital to consistent wick compression/deflection against the inside of the coil. Shifted, diametrically irregular or longitudinally irregular coil geometry can overly compress the wick in one area of the coil while under compressing in another causing thermal hot spots.
Overly compressed contact coil: winding contact coils with too much tension or bias angle can put the coil turns in too high of a state of compressive strain. That is, the turns are pressing together with such force that when the alumina forms during pulsing it lacks the abundance of intercrystalline voids necessary for juice and vapor transport. The highest compressive force will occur at the center of the coil and it is there that you can observe the inadequate presence of juice when firing a wicked and juiced coil. Have a look while pulsing; if you're not seeing boiling juice coming forth between each turn your coil could be suffering from over compression.
Good luck
TMI... brain hurt....... Thanks Professor X.
Will have to re-read it on a clear head to absorb all the info.
As of now, this is what my Lemo Drop looks like. Combination of; 70VG 3mg Nic, 70VG 6mg Nic, Max VG 0mg Nic, 50/50 0mg Nic and 70VG 0mg Nic. About 70ml of juice in total. Using Rayon wick and still getting good at around 70% of flavor.
It looked about 15% cleaner before i vaped 9ml of 70VG 6mg juice tonight.
7 juice brands in total.
edit.
Vaping Nana Cream 0mg Nic now and im getting a slight hint of burnt flavor at 22w. Its like an over done steak.
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TMI... brain hurt....... Thanks Professor X.
Will have to re-read it on a clear head to absorb all the info.
As of now, this is what my Lemo Drop looks like. Combination of; 70VG 3mg Nic, 70VG 6mg Nic, Max VG 0mg Nic, 50/50 0mg Nic and 70VG 0mg Nic. About 70ml of juice in total. Using Rayon wick and still getting good at around 70% of flavor.
It looked about 15% cleaner before i vaped 9ml of 70VG 6mg juice tonight.
7 juice brands in total.
View attachment 407055
edit.
Vaping Nana Cream 0mg Nic now and im getting a slight hint of burnt flavor at 22w. Its like an over done steak.
Sorry bout that. I sometimes share more info than peeps are looking for. Sometimes though, the answer is not as simple as you would like it to be. There is alot going on where the wick meets the coil; rubber meets the road so to speak.
It is evident now that you are using a spaced coil so you can ignore the the part of that post which addresses overly compressed contact coils.
Your coil looks like a rasinette! Lol. The symmetry looks a little off but hard too tell with it that grungy. Take a pic after dryburn and rewicking so we can have a look.
Cig
TMI... brain hurt....... Thanks Professor X.
Will have to re-read it on a clear head to absorb all the info.
As of now, this is what my Lemo Drop looks like. Combination of; 70VG 3mg Nic, 70VG 6mg Nic, Max VG 0mg Nic, 50/50 0mg Nic and 70VG 0mg Nic. About 70ml of juice in total. Using Rayon wick and still getting good at around 70% of flavor.
It looked about 15% cleaner before i vaped 9ml of 70VG 6mg juice tonight.
7 juice brands in total.
View attachment 407055
edit.
Vaping Nana Cream 0mg Nic now and im getting a slight hint of burnt flavor at 22w. Its like an over done steak.
It's no wonder you Lemo is getting warm, your coils have an insulation layer. Your airflow isn't cooling them efficiently, they need to get warmer to vaporize the juice and they cool down slower.
Made some twisted wire so put it in the Lemo.
29g twisted 2.5mm 9 wraps 1.4Ω
29g twisted 2.5mm 9 wraps 1.4Ω
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