Status
Not open for further replies.

petercro

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Dec 18, 2009
321
4
Brough East Yorkshire, UK
Mini juice Machine Mk3
mini2-1.jpg


Hello All.

The http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modders-forum/64983-e-pipe-juice-machine.html thread is not over, I think everybody who participated may use it as a reference thread.

The Mini J M. Mk1 is at home with me working 24/7.
The Mk2 has had problems with the push switch, battery connections and feed tube.
(It is on it's way back to me for a postmortem)

The Mk3 is on the build bench and progressing.
I was hoping to use the silver tactile switch from madvapes, with a mosfet.
But I was unable to contact Mark at madvapes. I know there site is being updated and my emails may have been overlooked. This is not a bad comment for madvapes as I also know they are setting up a UK outlet. (I can't wait).
So instead I decided to go with a miniature microswitch with roller actuator.
Great smooth action and rated 3A @ 240v

Ordered 2 18650 2600mA, When they arrived I was surprised to find that they were 4mm shorter than the 3000mA version.
Surprised but happy, as it allowed me to add a -ve battery spring within the box.

Main slide switch as usual, but this time I've added a main power ON LED.

At the bottom of the mod are 2 chrome studs, which are a direct link to the +ve & -ve of the battery for a charging stand..

WhatAClumsyGirl was good enough to find me a UK supplier of 3ml eyedropper bottles, which I ordered with some 7.5ml bottles.
Delivered within 24hrs, great site Clumsy.
The 3ml bottles are very small and I will use them in the Mk 4.
But the 7.5ml bottles are a perfect size and shape.

Have a look for yourself
Atty and tubing not installed yet......
mk3-1.jpg

The light material supporting the battery is epoxy putty (great stuff)
Even though I sanded the inside of the box prior to installing the epoxy putty. It still detached from the box after curing, a little liquid glue sorted it.


You can clearly sea the power on LED and the charging studs.

mk3-2.jpg


mk3-3.jpg


mk3-4.jpg

The bottle still has to have the screw lid cut and the tube added.

mk3-5.jpg


If you can see, I took the green sleeve off a length of the wire an slipped
it of one of the LED legs. Saved a little time and soldering.
Good close-up of the microswitch.

More to follow.

Petercro.............
 

MastiffMike

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 9, 2009
5,744
7,751
Dogville Estate
I know I'm probably jumping the gun with questions as I'm sure they'll be answered in time but:
1. Pics of button? Specs on button?
2. What slide switch are you using?
3. Charging contacts - B/c the contacts are both on the bottom is there any fear of them possibly being shorted (by any metal surface, like a key in the pocket)? Are you planning anything to prevent this? Maybe something as simple as a raised "bump" between the two to prevent flat metal from being able to connect with both at the same time?

Looking great! I'm sadden by the closing of the old thread but look forward to this one being just as good!
 

Guineahill

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Nov 3, 2009
931
3
King George Virginia USA
I really like it! The epoxy putty dam is a great concept. I love that stuff.

I agree about putting a short ridge between the charging nubs to avoid a possible incidental short. Or, in the future, perhaps a three option master switch with one dedicated to charging.

Isn't it amazing how much difference 4 mm can make? I look forward to watching the progress of this model!

:)
 

petercro

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Dec 18, 2009
321
4
Brough East Yorkshire, UK

Ralph T

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Dec 3, 2009
1,942
3,125
61
Albuquerque, NM
Nice work Petercro!

I would have a very good look at your battery. It may be shorter because there is no protection PCB on the negative end. I have this battery. Notice that there is a ridge around the positive end and the negative one. The PCB is on the negative end and is shaped like a button battery. I think they just heat shrink it in there with the plastic sleeving. I am not seeing that ridge on the negative end of your battery.
 

highping

Ultra Member
Supporting Member
ECF Veteran
Aug 29, 2009
1,292
197
Columbus, OH
That's looking great petercro. I like the idea of using that roller switch. Seems like it would have a nice feel to it.

I agree with the others that those metal studs shouldn't have a line of sight on each other. That's just asking for a short. One possible solution (so you don't have to move them) would be to put a plastic washer around them. This would also aid in being able to stand it on end.

BTW: Ralph is correct. It looks like that is an unprotected batt. Not a huge deal, but you should make sure your design allows for that extra few mm that a protection circuit is going to add.
 

petercro

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Dec 18, 2009
321
4
Brough East Yorkshire, UK
Nice work Petercro!

I would have a very good look at your battery. It may be shorter because there is no protection PCB on the negative end. I have this battery. Notice that there is a ridge around the positive end and the negative one. The PCB is on the negative end and is shaped like a button battery. I think they just heat shrink it in there with the plastic sleeving. I am not seeing that ridge on the negative end of your battery.

Thank you for the heads up about the battery.
The writing on the battery says it is protected.
But any idiot with a wax crayon could have written it.
I have contacted my supplier and am waiting for a reply.
If I don't get a suitable answer I will dismantle one and if isn't protected.
I will get the supplier booted of ebay / paypal.
(I'm not vindictive, I just don't like getting screwed).
 

Ralph T

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Dec 3, 2009
1,942
3,125
61
Albuquerque, NM
Thank you for the heads up about the battery.
The writing on the battery says it is protected.
But any idiot with a wax crayon could have written it.
I have contacted my supplier and am waiting for a reply.
If I don't get a suitable answer I will dismantle one and if isn't protected.
I will get the supplier booted of ebay / paypal.
(I'm not vindictive, I just don't like getting screwed).

Something else I noticed about the protected ones. There is a bit of a ridge (conductor) running from the protection circuit board (PCB) on the negative end up to the positive end, underneath the shrink wrap label. I think this allows for the PCB to measure the voltage across the battery. This is the only way it could protect against overcharging.

I tried to find a good photo of this.

I think this is the ultrafire web site. They have multiple colors, but in the 2600 mah 18650 batteries, it would appear that maroon is protected and the pretty green ones are not. Although it could be that they change colors based upon what labeling material they have laying around.
 

petercro

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Dec 18, 2009
321
4
Brough East Yorkshire, UK
After seeing the mahmba 2. The Mini Mk3 looked like a box toy.
I removed all the pieces and hit it with a hammer.
Went back to the drawing board.

Talking to HighPing and MastiffMike, on how to work with plastic to form sleeker Mods, I came up with this.
It is not finished as the unit has to be glued together.
The gap between the two halves will be filled and smoothed with epoxy putty,
Then the white plastic will be sprayed black, and the copper sealed, or may just spray it all black.
Green Led installed, hand made switch in battery cap.
Screw in and out liquid bottle, fed direct into 4081 atty.
All parts from local diy shop.
dimensions, 80 X 44 X 24mm
Will take protected or un-protected 18650.


cop2.jpg



cop3.jpg



cop4.jpg



cop5.jpg



cop6.jpg



cop7.jpg

This last pic,
The spring is totally insulated for the copper.
The battery is inserted +ve side down.
Press the copper top and the inner 15mm copper pipe hits the -ve contact.


I'm away again tomorrow, so will not be able to finish until mid next week.
(Don't want to work, just play).
 

MastiffMike

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 9, 2009
5,744
7,751
Dogville Estate
Nice Peter! How are you tackling the switch firing when not desired (i.e. in your pocket?) Is there a way to "lock" the switch? Also, is the battery removable? If so, is the copper end just pressure fitted on? Are you going to be able to recharge without removing the battery? Looks like it could be done quite easily!

Yeah to another Petercro thread!
:pop:
 

petercro

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Dec 18, 2009
321
4
Brough East Yorkshire, UK
There is no master switch as such.
The copper cap switch will have a rotation lockoff on it.
The battery can be removed for charging, but not necessary.
Remove atty, hold down switch and clamp in a charger.

Mike, also,I used the same layout as the mahmba 2 for the bottle feed setup.
Push up bottle, screw in place. Brass tube straight into atty. Separate brass tube within bottle.
Works like a charm.
 

MastiffMike

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 9, 2009
5,744
7,751
Dogville Estate
There is no master switch as such.
The copper cap switch will have a rotation lockoff on it.
The battery can be removed for charging, but not necessary.
Remove atty, hold down switch and clamp in a charger.

Mike, also,I used the same layout as the mahmba 2 for the bottle feed setup.
Push up bottle, screw in place. Brass tube straight into atty. Separate brass tube within bottle.
Works like a charm.

I noticed the bottle opening were the same. I'm thinking my design might be modified to something like that (tho I still want to use a spray bottle!!!) I also like your "charge in the case" ideas and that'll solve one of the biggest issue I've had with my design, how to make it easily accessible. With charging posts I won't need in unless replacing the battery or atty! I'm so jazzed to get my juice bottle design started I've been unmotivaed to finish my springbox!

Keep the info and pics coming Peter!
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread