The new 18650 NoEgo

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romaniac

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Hi, romaniac.
Do you have mods with 808 connectors? How long the battery and power lasts in the mini version?
Thanks for a great mods,btw.
depends on the battery I use 14650 protected from MadVapes. 1200 mah a whole day and I am a steam engine! the cone is big enough to get a 510 to 808 adapter and works well on both units . the 18650 Noego .. there is no point in explaining how long the battery will last . Is ridiculous.. more than 2 days for me.

Funny thing I have some dual coil KR808 mega and they are worlds apart from your conventional KR808D-1.!!
 
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Andyhrn

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Mar 1, 2011
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depends on the battery I use 14650 protected from MadVapes. 1200 mah a whole day and I am a steam engine! the cone is big enough to get a 510 to 808 adapter and works well on both units . the 18650 Noego .. there is no point in explaining how long the battery will last . Is ridiculous.. more than 2 days for me.

Funny thing I have some dual coil KR808 mega and they are worlds apart from your conventional KR808D-1.!!

Glad to hear. But from my experience the adapter doesn't work well (I tried 2 on different batts/Pt and this why I've got rid of all 510 stuff). And again many of us really appreciated your efforts. Thanks again.
 

bstedh

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Actually I am trying to make a VV 18650 Noego based on some of your design and the challenge is to be able to fit all components in the switch body.

Most of my ideas came from the evercool thread and work on my VV weller. I should call it VVeller. Somebody on another thread used this convention to rename one of their mods =]

Where are you sourcing your switch body? If you make them yourself you can just make them a bit longer or see if your manufacturer can make them a little longer.
Also I would recommend inserting a replaceable fuse at the positive terminal to help protect the switch. This is something I have not heard much about other than on some mods and could be a huge selling point. Of course this may involve an entire redesign of the switch body =] I think with some high quality surface mount components you can get fairly small with the over all OKR circuit. It really doesn't require a lot of components.

Design wise I would think having the circuit board down the center with the switch on one side and the trimmer on the other would probably be the best route. Also you would need to get rid of the stock connectors on the OKR board and go with something like a ribon cable to a secondary board so you can fold them over each other to save on space. You can fit this all into 1/2 the length of an AA slot so it should be doable for both the 18650 and 14500. Even if you had to flair the switch body a little on the 14500 it may just make a look difference to differentiate your product from others.

Another safety feature and selling point would be to put a voltage monitoring diode in to alert the user when the voltage is dropping to it's nominal recharge point just prior to getting there. This is something that I have been discussing in one of my threads. If the OKR board fits in your switch body you actually have quite a bit of real-estate to add features if you find the correct combination of components.

Edit: Wow, again one of my quick replies got long winded. I really do need to stay off the forum in the middle of the night =]
 
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romaniac

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Nov 21, 2009
182
218
Las Vegas, USA
www.jazzcartopipe.com
Most of my ideas came from the evercool thread and work on my VV weller. I should call it VVeller. Somebody on another thread used this convention to rename one of their mods =]

Where are you sourcing your switch body? If you make them yourself you can just make them a bit longer or see if your manufacturer can make them a little longer.
Also I would recommend inserting a replaceable fuse at the positive terminal to help protect the switch. This is something I have not heard much about other than on some mods and could be a huge selling point. Of course this may involve an entire redesign of the switch body =] I think with some high quality surface mount components you can get fairly small with the over all OKR circuit. It really doesn't require a lot of components.

Design wise I would think having the circuit board down the center with the switch on one side and the trimmer on the other would probably be the best route. Also you would need to get rid of the stock connectors on the OKR board and go with something like a ribon cable to a secondary board so you can fold them over each other to save on space. You can fit this all into 1/2 the length of an AA slot so it should be doable for both the 18650 and 14500. Even if you had to flair the switch body a little on the 14500 it may just make a look difference to differentiate your product from others.

Another safety feature and selling point would be to put a voltage monitoring diode in to alert the user when the voltage is dropping to it's nominal recharge point just prior to getting there. This is something that I have been discussing in one of my threads. If the OKR board fits in your switch body you actually have quite a bit of real-estate to add features if you find the correct combination of components.

Edit: Wow, again one of my quick replies got long winded. I really do need to stay off the forum in the middle of the night =]

Thank I will consider all you mentioned. I will PM you when needed if that is OK with you. the big issue here is the price. My goal is to offer high quality but affordable units that will save money. It can get tricky and more expensive. i was thinking a vv with preset voltages 3.7, 4.1, 5. and 6V
 

bstedh

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Thank I will consider all you mentioned. I will PM you when needed if that is OK with you. the big issue here is the price. My goal is to offer high quality but affordable units that will save money. It can get tricky and more expensive. i was thinking a vv with preset voltages 3.7, 4.1, 5. and 6V

PM me anytime.

I was thinking something along the same lines if I put together another VV. I have been looking for a small rotary switch about the size of my trimmer pot and I could just solder a couple of surface mount resistors in line on the legs of the switch. Of course I still need to do some experimentation on what voltages I prefer with the different carto's I use.
 
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