Look closer at the pic....hint....the wick isn't solid
left out in the rain again!
bap, could you please invent something that doesn't involve drilling?
The Next Big thing.... Porous Ceramic Wicks
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left out in the rain again!
bap, could you please invent something that doesn't involve drilling?
left out in the rain again!
bap, could you please invent something that doesn't involve drilling?
or a lathe.
Look closer at the pic....hint....the wick isn't solid
Did you drill the hole before or after you shaped the wick?
Well asdaq I bit....I think I'm going to try it
That is ballsy as h e double hockey sticks!!
I believe he said he drilled before final shaping...then ground it down as small as he dared (afraid it would snap).
hmmmm. the nextel worked fine on my dripper...
did you buy the pre-torched rope?
didn't get a muted taste at all, don't mind the dirty coil...
needed a makeshift forge, to "treat it"... maybe it wasn't heated properly to get rid of the chems from manufacturing?
Yup it was pre-torched, it is pure white, maybe I did something wrong? I got it, cut it to length, stuffed it in the whole, wrapped a 3 wrap 28k coil, filled the tank, let it soak and blah.....tried 2 or 3 times?
Thanx for the link to the forge, now to see if I can get myself in trouble. HAHAHAHA
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Sorry had to go be a parent at parent teachers conference.....I think I dread it more as a parent than I ever did as a student
Thanks for all the praise!!!
Yes I drill before shaping (usually), I typically cut into ~3/16" or 1/4" squares and drill the hole, then round down to size. I have had some luck finding a screw to fit in the hole and chucking the screw in a drill and rough turning down to size. I always finish rounding by hand because when I have tried to go thin with the drill I always seem to break them. But using the screw and drill helps keep the OD concentric with the hole.
With this wick I drilled an already round wick and then ground it down some more.
Wicks this length really aren't that bad, I think if I went with my typical method I could get a little smaller OD if I wanted. Even with a crooked hole the wick was pretty dang sturdy. Hot wrapping was much easier!!! Because I could slide the wick on to a 1/16" punch and I could pull a lot harder on the wire without worrying about snapping the wick.
Sorry Tibs it's just drill
Mike, yeah the lathe is a nice luxury.
Umm.....no mass producing.....even if it wasn't kind of a pita....I don't do very well at repetitive tasks
Thanks for all the praise!!!
Yes I drill before shaping (usually), I typically cut into ~3/16" or 1/4" squares and drill the hole, then round down to size. I have had some luck finding a screw to fit in the hole and chucking the screw in a drill and rough turning down to size. I always finish rounding by hand because when I have tried to go thin with the drill I always seem to break them. But using the screw and drill helps keep the OD concentric with the hole.
With this wick I drilled an already round wick and then ground it down some more.
Wicks this length really aren't that bad, I think if I went with my typical method I could get a little smaller OD if I wanted. Even with a crooked hole the wick was pretty dang sturdy. Hot wrapping was much easier!!! Because I could slide the wick on to a 1/16" punch and I could pull a lot harder on the wire without worrying about snapping the wick.
Sorry Tibs it's just drill
Mike, yeah the lathe is a nice luxury.
Umm.....no mass producing.....even if it wasn't kind of a pita....I don't do very well at repetitive tasks
Actually you can't really compare my air ring setting to a stock fogger. I removed the most restrictive parts in the air path. I really probably have it set about where a stock fogger is at fully open, plus my air ring is about half the width of the stock fogger ring.
dont be fooled by the white...
i received 15 feet of it (untreated) and it was white none the less. it needs a min. of 1500 degrees(from what i've read) to burn off the chems...
i get the forge going, and leave it in for 20 min.... it visually looks the same. but does become a bit more brittle....
hey bap, i was just thinking...
does the fact that the wick has less mass, due to it being hollow. decrease the heat soak lag...
the heat soak is the one thing i hated about ceramic....
PS: very jealous!
I don't know how you do it, bapgood. I just ruined 2 φ1mm diamond bits drilling holes into AO blocks. The holes ended up being too crooked and I cut across them when detaching the drilled sections from the block of AO.
I don't know how you do it, bapgood. I just ruined 2 φ1mm diamond bits drilling holes into AO blocks. The holes ended up being too crooked and I cut across them when detaching the drilled sections from the block of AO.
Try starting the hole with a sharp point cone shaped diamond bit. When I drill (drill press) I drill a little bit and back out and so on until I'm thru or close, I try to stop just shy of going all the way thru as most times it chunks out at the end and sometimes the chunk will take half the wick. It's just like anything else with this stone, you just have to learn the feel for it.
I have drilled manually with a pin vise drill and it turned out pretty good, but took forever.
Buzz, the liquid inside will also act as a heatsink, and heat the juice in the tank. But, not that much different than a wick saturated in juice does.
Thanks, those are all good thoughts. But, there's no way I can put a 1mm bit into the drill press. I'm drilling by hand into a large block of AO, then cutting out the slice with the hole and shaping. Well, that was the plan at least...
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