THE Phoenix Line is here & up for SALE. both phoenix xl & 3ml tank version,bottom coil, 2 ohms for both

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v1John

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Mar 23, 2010
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i told the factory last night after reading some posts and ill have tons of inner plugs coming and ill give them out to people when they order and as i mentioned i have the xl inner plugs now as well.

are the regular phoenix ready to use out of the box, or do the inner plugs need to be replaced?
 

MsBree

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I'm with you MsBree. These don't seem to be for me either. They're a pretty good product, just not working out for me. Please don't think I'm trying to bash the XL's. I'm not. Just trying to point out that for some of us its not working out. Over all I think it's a good product just not for me.

I totally agree with you Mike! What works for some, may not work for others! I'm happy others are very pleased with them!
 

samsun

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Hi Big Screen, I have the same problem with the first two I have opened. I was getting dry hits so I dumbed juice cleaned them out and that is when I noticed that my coils are down the bottom right where the top of ceramic cup is. So instead of my wicks going straight across they sick up into the slots while my coil is way down below. Can You tell me what you used and how you raised the coil up where it belongs without it breaking? I would really appreciate anyone's help that may know how to do this. Thank you :)




[

QUOTE=Big Screen D;6028847]I decided to fix 1 of the two problem children by pulling up and aligning the wick to correct the pinched wick syndrome. Mission accomplished. Now that I know what to look for, and that there is a reasonable chance of correcting the mis-formed coil/wicks which I'll now do before even filling from now on, it's game over. This is the one and only carto that the wife and I will use going forward.

Based on the 10 I have, 40% malformed coil/wick is a problem that I hope the manufacturer takes notice of. Not everyone is willing, or should be willing to have to fiddle with these to make them work at their best.[/QUOTE]
 

Rolondo

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A cone isnt going to help. Its not the draw that limits the heat its the metal tube. The heated vapor down at the coil is traveling up a metal tube that is surrounded by a liquid. A perfect heatsink. The heat is transfering to the tube and the liquid is absorbing the heat. There really isnt anything you can do to warm up the vapor on these by any sizable amount.
Amen........!
 

Bocephus

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Hey Chris you mentioned a 5.5ml thats coming? I swear I read that but now cant find it. Could you tell me even if its a rough idea what the diameter of that will be? I am actually building a mod with a recessed carto hole that I was gonna do ego sized like the 3ml but might hold off depending on the diameter of that.

Thanks in advance.
 

melloyello

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so i tried to pry the coils to their horizontal position (which they should be to begin with) and i broke both ce2's. initially,they didnt wick well at all and found out it was cockeyed in the cup so i did my best to straighten them. one of them worked little better after but not as good as the ones that are straight in the cup from the getgo. these are winners when the coil is where its supposed to be.... but im not going to keep buying 5 and toss 2 out of every pack.

is it possible to buy couple packs and send back the ones where the coil is jammed into the cup and wont be worth vaping with? i will know without putting any liquid in it.
 
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Big Screen D

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Hi Big Screen, I have the same problem with the first two I have opened. I was getting dry hits so I dumbed juice cleaned them out and that is when I noticed that my coils are down the bottom right where the top of ceramic cup is. So instead of my wicks going straight across they sick up into the slots while my coil is way down below. Can You tell me what you used and how you raised the coil up where it belongs without it breaking? I would really appreciate anyone's help that may know how to do this. Thank you :)




[

QUOTE=Big Screen D;6028847]I decided to fix 1 of the two problem children by pulling up and aligning the wick to correct the pinched wick syndrome. Mission accomplished. Now that I know what to look for, and that there is a reasonable chance of correcting the mis-formed coil/wicks which I'll now do before even filling from now on, it's game over. This is the one and only carto that the wife and I will use going forward.

Based on the 10 I have, 40% malformed coil/wick is a problem that I hope the manufacturer takes notice of. Not everyone is willing, or should be willing to have to fiddle with these to make them work at their best.
[/QUOTE]

I just used a dental pick. There is not much give, so you may not be able to move it around a lot. They don't need to be level with the inlet holes, but far enough up in the cup to avoid sharp bends in the wick.

What really works well for me with my thicker juices is the following:

1) Manipulate the wick as above if needed.
2) Using a round knife sharpening stick, file two opposing crescents in the air tube base about halfway into the part that sits over the wick. This allows for adjustment of the inlet holes by turning the air-tube for optimum wicking, and bubble escape for a particular juice. This, or a slope cut into the base really, really works well. I usually set to the largest opening, and if a bit of flooding happens, just stick a pointy implement such a small knife tip into the top of the airtube and turn to close the opening till it wicks to liking. Once a few of these tubes have been modded as such, just re-use it when the time comes to retire a carto.
3) Clip the wicks almost even with the inlet holes.

My Camera sucks, but I hijacked these from urquidezj's excellent tutorial on Xl rebuilding with a cotton wick. Note that the op chooses to pull the wick down into the cup, which I'm sure works well with cotton, but not so with the silica stock wicks imo.

Good wick placement:
IMAG0907.jpg


Down at the bottom creating two sharp bends in the wick. Not so good imo unless using cotton with it's superior capillary properties.
IMAG0940.jpg
 
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