THE Phoenix Line is here & up for SALE. both phoenix xl & 3ml tank version,bottom coil, 2 ohms for both

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rdsok

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doe the cotton burn or is it burn proof like silica

The cotton will burn when it is too dry... but not when wet.

This works just like when you put water in a paper cup and place it within a fire... as long as it is wet, the cup will not burn but once the water is gone it will again.

I can't say if it wicks any better or worse than silica or fiberglass...
 

badkolo

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as long as it burns then we cannot use it in any of our products, people have a tendancy to vape past the point they should just like filler cartos and I will avoid that if possible..

i remeber when we started with the ce2 and people saw black gunk and though they wick was burning and people where flipping out until they realized silica doesnt burn.
 

Cyrus Vap

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under any circumstances I've subjected it to, full, half full, almost empty, dry hits (not ten in a row mind you that will burn it, like oh damn that was dry, time to tip) in fluxos, phoenix, and stardusts, cotton does NOT burn, at all. Also there is less coil gunk after repeated fills compared to silica

in the context of stardusts and phoenix, it also gives more pure flavor, vapor is just as thick if not thicker, and it wicks much better than silica. that's the other thing, whatever dry hits you're getting with silica, cut them at least in half and that's what you'll get with cotton. it wicks with a vengeance, you almost have to try to get a dry hit. In fact that's probably a conservative estimate. I have two stardusts going now, one cotton short wicked, one stock short wick. I didn't get a single dry hit on the cotton until I got down to about .2 ml. With the silica, I got my first dry hit at 1.0 ml.

(fluxos are a different animal, for me at least. I can't seem to find the right length/thickness of wick. I don't get dry hits at all, the vape is just a little thin. I haven't given up, but for now I prefer silica or stainless steel mesh here.)

for 2.99 you can get a lifetime supply at michaels (sugar and cream 100% cotton, unscented). they also sell bamboo crochet yarn (lydias brand) for 1.99. its thinner but you can twist/braid it together. sterile gauze works as well.

and say by some magic you manage to burn it? pull it out. twist a new wick up, wet the tip, and pull it through. you don't have to worry about 1) price 2) destroying the wick like the silica, it's not going to shear all over the place with stress and manipulation.
 
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Cyrus Vap

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and yeah, bad I don't recommend you pushing for it to be in your products by default, just because people will blame you if they get silly and do something stupid. but your goodies happen to work even better being rebuilt with it, and I don't mine having the extra gutted silica laying around.

but its honestly not burning for this chain vaper right here ;)
 

badkolo

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under any circumstances I've subjected it to, full, half full, almost empty, dry hits (not ten in a row mind you that will burn it, like oh damn that was dry, time to tip) in fluxos, phoenix, and stardusts, cotton does NOT burn, at all. Also there is less coil gunk after repeated fills compared to silica

in the context of stardusts and phoenix, it also gives more pure flavor, vapor is just as thick if not thicker, and it wicks much better than silica. that's the other thing, whatever dry hits you're getting with silica, cut them at least in half and that's what you'll get with cotton. it wicks with a vengeance, you almost have to try to get a dry hit. In fact that's probably a conservative estimate. I have two stardusts going now, one cotton short wicked, one stock short wick. I didn't get a single dry hit on the cotton until I got down to about .2 ml. With the silica, I got my first dry hit at 1.0 ml.

(fluxos are a different animal, for me at least. I can't seem to find the right length/thickness of wick. I don't get dry hits at all, the vape is just a little thin. I haven't given up, but for now I prefer silica or stainless steel mesh here.)

for 2.99 you can get a lifetime supply at michaels (sugar and cream 100% cotton, unscented). they also sell bamboo crochet yarn (lydias brand) for 1.99. its thinner but you can twist/braid it together. sterile gauze works as well.

and say by some magic you manage to burn it? pull it out. twist a new wick up, wet the tip, and pull it through. you don't have to worry about 1) price 2) destroying the wick like the silica, it's not going to shear all over the place with stress and manipulation.

just becuase your keeping it wet doesnt mean it doesnt burn, cotton wicks burn period, and not everyone keeps the wick wet, we went through this long ago and if the wicks can be burned then they cant be sold to the public by vendors without issues but there is nothing wrong with using it if your careful and know that it can burn, if your cool with that and understand you need to keep it wet etc.. then use what works best for you but we cant advise it to novice or even moderatly experienced users.

now for us modders who know better and know they must keep it wet thats fine, but for the masses a wick that can burn is a no no.

but like i said for us its all cool, people who are recoiling and rewicking are usually more experienced then a newbie so thats all cool
 
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BonnyC

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Hmm. I've vaped down to 0 juice in the phoenix before I got a dry hit. In fact, that's almost always the case. I certainly do have some extra wick on hand from busted cartos and the wick is in great condition. It's just the coil that pooped out over time. Or, I rarely use them because I have something better.

Another Phoenix is causing us trouble. It's the one my husband started using when we got them on Tuesday. He came home from work and it would barely produce any vapor at all. It wasn't leaking or flooded or anything fun like that. I dismantled it, cleaned it and then it was making big clouds of vapor again, but almost all of them tasted burnt. So, I tried to thin the wicks but I don't have any tweezers on hand (no idea where they ran off to) so I couldn't do much. I also tried lifting the post a bit to give them more room and that didn't work. I will try replacing the rubber seal next.

But it was great until yesterday. That's sort of perplexing to me. I mean, the wicks can't suddenly become too thick as far as I know. He didn't have to do a primer puff or squeeze the tube and he hasn't abused it in any way. So, now I have two of these to work on. I'm so disappointed that these little ones are sold out!! Since I gave a few away to my mom and uncle to try, I wound up with two for myself and two for my husband. Now we're down to one each and if they fail, then I just have my 3ml phoenix and no replacements! I love these things too much. So, anything that I can do to keep them maintained, I'll do.

I'm just not really savvy when it comes to changing wicks. I can think them, I can fluff them, I can trim them (which I tried, btw). But I don't know how to change them, especially on this specific piece of hardware. I've seen y'all talk about trying to lift the coil and snapping the wires, so I don't know how I could thread a new wick through it.

Oh yeah, can this type of wick be found at hardware stores or anything? If so, what size am I looking for? Or are there larger types that I can just take strands from?

Doh, another edit: My husband's Phoenix carto does give a good hit after you squeeze it. Primer puffs don't work, though. Also, it really only gives you one good it and a fair amount of the juice disappears. Some of it comes out the air holes. When I was cleaning it and blowing the water through like on the video, some of the water was coming out of the small vents by the threading. That was a bit of a mess :oops:
 
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BonnyC

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I dismantled it, cleaned it and then it was making big clouds of vapor again, but almost all of them tasted burnt. So, I tried to thin the wicks but I don't have any tweezers on hand (no idea where they ran off to) so I couldn't do much. I also tried lifting the post a bit to give them more room and that didn't work. I will try replacing the rubber seal next.

if that one is giving you dry hits, remove the silicone ring at top and use tweezers or cuticle cutter to lift the metal inner tube just a tad to open the wick holes, then put it back together and it should be fine

Yeah, I tried that. Sorry, it was a long post so I'm sure I gave way too much info to absorb it all. There's a snippet of it.
 

vikeme28

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finally got around to my 3 and only phoenix that i have open so far to find out the dry hits or with these you dont really get a dry hit more of a no hit when its not wicking. two of the three the coils were pushed way way down into the coil cup. i took a paperclip and just bent a curve into one end not a full bend, and i just pried the coil up little by little first on one side and then the other side because as i pulled up on one side it pushed the coil to the other side of the cup. just kept doing this very gently and a little at a time and they came up pretty easily without breaking anything and wow what a huge difference. before i had to squeeze the tube or dry pull to get the bubbles that let you know its wicking. now the bubbles come constantly when i have the button pushed to fire the pv. i think i still need to re-trim the wicks though because pulling the coil up the wicks are now sticking way out of the hole.
 

Errol

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Until just recently I've had no satisfaction from the Phoenix, couldn't tell any difference between them and the CE3 XLs I had bought previously and found disappointing. Had to wonder why some were having success and other, the opposite. Finally occurred to me that the draw might be part of it.

On most of my PVs the draw was very airy so I followed the advise from an earlier post and cut a 1/4" section out of a condom, placed it over the mating point between the PV and the carto and adjusted it to where the draw was very tight and WALLA, I was finally seeing bubbles coming out of the coil cup and the vapor increased dramatically.

Still not that impressed with the vapor and flavor but at least I'm at the point where I can experiment a little with other suggestions that until now have had little or no effect.

Errol
 
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dannoman

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October of 2010...i was baptized into vaping in that thread...I used to feel nerdy hanging out in there...



Memories...
this is the video with events surrounding it in bad's CE2 thread that started the clearo craze
...with kudos to BR945 & others (where has Billy been lately, have to give'm a call)




as long as it burns then we cannot use it in any of our products, people have a tendancy to vape past the point they should just like filler cartos and I will avoid that if possible..

i remeber when we started with the ce2 and people saw black gunk and though they wick was burning and people where flipping out until they realized silica doesnt burn.

I remember the good video proving that the wick didn't burn.
 

samsun

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Hi Errol, I was having some problems with a couple of mine but now that I found and fixed the problem They are really good. Have you taken one apart yet? If you have not you may want to so you can take a look at we're the coil is seated. Mine was way down pushed below so that instead of it looking like a coil with a wick pushed through it and the ends of the wicks sticking straight out like they should be, the wicks coming out of the coil on each end were bent pointing up so that they could reach the small holes that they need to be purtruding from. After I pushed the coil up so it was almost even with the holes they are both wicking really good now. Also I was having an airy draw from one of them. I finally realized that that the outer black cover on the carto was not pushed down to the point were it actually snaps on when pushed down right, not sure why but that put an end to my airy draw and I am loving them both now.
Not sure if any of this is going to help u or not but I really hope it does, I have been vaping for quiet some time now and I believe the Phoenix line is the best out there. To me this is what we were all looking for and it can only get better from here. Barbara :)




Until just recently I've had no satisfaction from the Phoenix, couldn't tell any difference between them and the CE3 XLs I had bought previously and found disappointing. Had to wonder why some were having success and other, the opposite. Finally occurred to me that the draw might be part of it.

On most of my PVs the draw was very airy so I followed the advise from an earlier post and cut a 1/4" section out of a condom, placed it over the mating point between the PV and the carto and adjusted it to where the draw was very tight and WALLA, I was finally seeing bubbles coming out of the coil cup and the vapor increased dramatically.

Still not that impressed with the vapor and flavor but at least I'm at the point where I can experiment a little with other suggestions that until now have had little or no effect.

Errol
 
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Big Screen D

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Funny thing is when they are wicking right, the draw though still on the airy side, is quite nice. I may have gotten used to the different draw which is looser than the Stardust that I've been using for several months before the Pheonix relegated them to my Armageddon stash.

Having the wick up close and as straight to the inlet holes as the wire allows makes a huge difference in how well they work. If I hadn't had one that was built that way, and was kicking the snot out of another I may have chalked the Pheonix up as a fail.

Another thing to look for. One some, the cup itself can be pushed down further from the inlet holes than others. Take the fill needle and gently push the cup up by sticking it through the bottom. There is a risk of breaking the cup, or pulling apart the connection if done to hard. I have not ruined on yet, but there is no doubt that it can happen.

After the wick has been manipulated to be as close to the top as possible with minimal bends, if it still isn't wicking enough, particularly if you use a thick juice, use a 3/16" chainsaw file and file two crescents into the base of the air-tube on opposing sides where it seats above the wick. Place the airtube so the peak of the crescent is above the inlet hole which makes the largest opening. Fill and vape. If it floods a bit, just stick the pointy end of a knife into the top of the air-tube at the top seal and turn the air-tube to adjust. You'll be able to see the hole get a little smaller.

I know this sounds a like a PIA, but once you've played with em a bit, there really isn't much to it. Roughly half of the ones we have are perfect out of the box. I've fixed the rest to work the others to work at least as good. I do have one that was sent to my parts donor box because the coil is to mangled to make right.

As I sit here typing this, I'm vaping 100%VG Boba's bounty with my morning coffee in the same modded Pheonix that has had at least 50ml run through it, dry burned every 2-3 fills, and getting perfect vape, after perfect vape. 50ml and still perfect vaping on a $2 carto? That's insane!
Photo0020.jpg
 

kwcharlie

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Oh boy, that brings back memories, Billy just had surgery, heard from him after here was OK but bedded, it's been over a week since heard from, presume healing. We should meet over there with dinner when he and Peggy can take drop-ins. You ever see the Radio's he's built? Fits in with the lath on the kitchen table.
 
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