What wire and gauge would you guys use for building between .6 and .7? I'm using the cyclone mainly these days. I thought about 316 stainless but it feels weird using anything other than kanthal on a Reo idk where to start.
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I've never heard of anyone successfully using wool as a wicking material. I'm sure it's been tried, at some point.
6 wraps of 26g kanthal, 2mm ID would get you there. The 2mm is prolly about as big a diameter you're going to comfortably fit in the cyclone. I personally prefer contact coils and shoot for 6-8 wraps in my builds to ensure good contact with the wicking.
SS is fine on a mech - it's the wonder wire, good for TC or straight power. If you went that way, I'd use 28g 316 (same 6 wraps, 2mm ID).
The first build you recommended is my go to build already haha thanks though
Best thing to do is to learn to work with 'Heat flux' on Steam Engine. Rather than build to a particular resistance, experiment with the heat flux value, until you find a range you like, and build to it.
For example: when my battery is at 3.7 volts, I like the heat flux value to be around 275-300. Naturally, when the battery is at full charge of 4.2v, the HF value will be higher. But I always use 3.7v as the voltage value, when I'm planning how I'm going to build my coil.
For example: when my battery is at 3.7 volts, I like the heat flux value to be around 275-300. Naturally, when the battery is at full charge of 4.2v, the HF value will be higher. But I always use 3.7v as the voltage value, when I'm planning how I'm going to build my coil.
Wool forms clumps when it gets wet rather than wicking especially well so it's not really a suitable material. Moreover, i'm scratching my head trying to think of a supplier that has not chemically treated it in some way, such that you might not want to vape it!
Cotton and rayon at least have the benefit of being easy to source and cheap. My wicks of choice, RxW or Readywick. is by comparison expensive at about a dollar an inch, but it lasts for months and months and can be dry burned.
T
Cotton and rayon at least have the benefit of being easy to source and cheap. My wicks of choice, RxW or Readywick. is by comparison expensive at about a dollar an inch, but it lasts for months and months and can be dry burned.
T
Alpaca, while the most hard to come by of wicking materials, is said to give a more pronounced flavor than cotton, rayon, or RxW, but does not have the longevity of the aforementioned materials. And dry hits are rumored to be the worst.
Note taken. I usually put my heat flux at the 4.2v because I know that's the hottest it will get, but I'll play around with it!
I vape unflavoured. So muji cotton for me, puts wetness where wet should be [/requirements of wick]
Anyone know why my cyclone keeps tasting burnt? I shouldnt even say burnt it's just an odd taste...the cotton isn't burnt, discolored, or dry, and I'm 100% sure I have no hot spots I've rebuilt a ton of times it's not the coil. It's not my juice either tastes fine in the chalice. I swear it's the glue vicious ant used on the insulator. I have spares I could change to see but maybe it's in my head.
Without seeing the build it's hard to say, but oftentimes when people using cotton complain of a burnt taste it's because the cotton is not making good enough contact with the coil. It's a bit of a balancing act; you want the cotton to slide in and out when dry without forming 'shoulders' at the coil edges. Cotton expands when it gets wet, so it ought to fill the space you left.
If it is bunching up at the edges of the coil, you have used too much and you'll not get enough air to it to stop it burning. Incidentally, rayon is the reverse - you want to pack that into a coil because as a man-made fibre it has a very homogeneous layering and that capillary action is what makes it wick so well.
TL;DR my money is on bad wicking rather than bad coils.
T
Yup, this ^^^
Either that or machine oil left over from the manufacturing process, but since you got it previously owned, you'd think that wouldn't be present any more. You never know, though. Clean away, I say.
There is no way I would ever use animal hair or any kind of hair as a wick.
Just no - no - no !!
Gross.
Just no - no - no !!
Gross.
It's a problem when it burns - you know that burning hair smell? hehe!
Been a long time since i managed to set fire to my hair and short of putting a blowtorch to my ear, i'd be hard-pressed to do it anymore.
T
i don't think the issue is the size of the coils, although i will say that for ease of building, i have always preferred something like an RM2 over a Cyclone, just because i don't like the closeness of the posts.
i think it requires a lot of checking and care to make sure it doesn't short on the cap, in the same way some of the earlier Chalices would.
How many wraps, what wire, what wicking, what resistance?
T
When a problem comes along
You must wick it
Before the cream sits out too long
You must wick it
When something's going wrong
You must wick it
Sent from my LG-H815 using Tapatalk
You must wick it
Before the cream sits out too long
You must wick it
When something's going wrong
You must wick it
Sent from my LG-H815 using Tapatalk
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